My car suddenly fails to start for a few attempts. Warning comes up the  Batterty is Low and needs to drive to charge.

 

I let it idle for 30 mins and then did a shortish run to town, not turning off for about 1 hr in the hope that it at least gave it a bit of charge.

 

Managed Ok later when I went to the gym for an hour or so.

 

Haven't done it yet but suspect today it  will be back to error again.

 

As this is the original battery (ie 8 years old), time for a new one, I believe.

 

Read that a new one from an On-line store would need "coding"

 

Q1 How do I do that? Or do I have to go to "Halfords or the like for it to be done ?

 

Q2 Any other "gotchas" (Radio needs a code when reconnect to car)??

 

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

Edited 1 October, 20241 yr by Blindman
Spelling

No radio code required. Any new battery should be adapted (coded) into system so that any charge-limiting faults recorded for the old battery are removed. Battery adaptation should still be done, even if replacement is exactly the same specification as old one - in which case, a minor change to recorded battery serial number will suffice.

Suggest getting the old battery tested first.

Check with your intended battery fitter that they have the necessary equipment to do the battery adaptation. 

Hi

 

Thanks for the quick reply. 

 

I was the intended battery fittter, hence the question as I 've no idea how to "adapt (code) the battery" 😎

 

I was intending replacing lke for like.

Edited 1 October, 20241 yr by Blindman

While not absolutely essential if exact replacement, it is possible that the new battery may not charge correctly if faults have been recorded against the original.

Battery adaptation is done via VCDS device or similar, there is a register on the forum of members who may be near you and able to do it at minimal cost.

1 minute ago, Warrior193 said:

While not absolutely essential if exact replacement, it is possible that the new battery may not charge correctly if faults have been recorded against the original.

Battery adaptation is done via VCDS device or similar, there is a register on the forum of members who may be near you and able to do it at minimal cost.

Yeah I see that list.

 

Looks well out of date for my town.

 

May contact further afield if I get issues.

 

Battery coming tomorrow.

Battery change on my last Fabia 3 I used ODBeleven app and an ODB adapter, it looked like the original battery from the factory.

 

As it was the same type of battery, I just changed one digit in the serial number- If changing battery tech or capacity then you have to change those fields.

ODBeleven app

Control Units

Adaptations

Battery Adaptations

Rated Battery capacity
59ah
Battery Manufacturer
JCB

Battery Serial Number
11111111111
Battery Technology
EFB


Hope that helps?


 

7 hours ago, Blindman said:

I was the intended battery fittter, hence the question as I 've no idea how to "adapt (code) the battery" 

Roughly where are you in the UK?

 

Thanks. AG Falco

@Mikey6

Thanks for that

 

Seems to be loads of ODB adaptors.

 

Where did you source yours and what is the brand?

 

Thanks

Edited 1 October, 20241 yr by Blindman

3 minutes ago, AGFalco said:

Roughly where are you in the UK?

 

Thanks. AG Falco

Cambridgeshire

3 minutes ago, Blindman said:

Cambridgeshire

To far away for me to do I think.

 

 

 

Thanks. AG Falco

Edited 1 October, 20241 yr by AGFalco

4 minutes ago, Blindman said:

Where did you source yours and what is the brand?

 

 

https://obdeleven.com/

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=obd+eleven

 

OBDeleven

 

Thanks. AG Falco

 

10 hours ago, Blindman said:

As this is the original battery (ie 8 years old), time for a new one, I believe.

Not necessarily but as you got it so low probably best you replace with new given the time of year.  Normally I'd suggest using an appropriate battery charger but on a modern car the battery generally has to be very low before it can't start the engine and I'm not sure what you mean by several attempts (one time or several that the engine won't start).  You usually get first warning of low state of charge with the start/stop become inactive when it would normally be active, unless there's been a sudden drain of battery power.

 

For disconnect/reconnect the battery and what might need resetting just refer to your car's 'Owner's Manual'.  If you don't still have the paper printed copy you can download free from VWŠkoda a pdf copy here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

For resetting often it's just the time of day clock provided you had your electric windows (sunroof) fully closed before battery disconnection.

 

How the computer will punish you for your error is uncertain but If you've not got a tool to 'code' the new battery you can still fit it and try aa few simple things to convince the overlords that you now have a battery in good state of charge.  After fitting the new battery, start the car put heater blower on 4 whilst the blower whilst turning the steering wheel to full lock in both directions, then go for a short drive.

 

Did you buy an EFB, 59Ah battery of the same physical size as original?

 

35 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Not necessarily but as you got it so low probably best you replace with new given the time of year.  Normally I'd suggest using an appropriate battery charger but on a modern car the battery generally has to be very low before it can't start the engine and I'm not sure what you mean by several attempts (one time or several that the engine won't start).  You usually get first warning of low state of charge with the start/stop become inactive when it would normally be active, unless there's been a sudden drain of battery power.

 

For disconnect/reconnect the battery and what might need resetting just refer to your car's 'Owner's Manual'.  If you don't still have the paper printed copy you can download free from VWŠkoda a pdf copy here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

For resetting often it's just the time of day clock provided you had your electric windows (sunroof) fully closed before battery disconnection.

 

How the computer will punish you for your error is uncertain but If you've not got a tool to 'code' the new battery you can still fit it and try aa few simple things to convince the overlords that you now have a battery in good state of charge.  After fitting the new battery, start the car put heater blower on 4 whilst the blower whilst turning the steering wheel to full lock in both directions, then go for a short drive.

 

Did you buy an EFB, 59Ah battery of the same physical size as original?

 

Hi

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Up to two days ago never had any issues with starting or battery. Start\stop has been active with no issues. Drove 2000 miles to France a few weeks back and a 500 mile weekend trip a week ago.

Mrs goes local shopping (10 mile round trip) every day or so, as usual

Wife came back from shopping I put car into garage hour later. Odd that the car did not start, turned over once. Tried again, same. Tried third time, OK. Error came up saying Battery low, drive to charge.

Car overnight in gararge. Not cold here in Camridgeshire.

Took three attempts to start, similar as above. No errors this time.

Assumed as it is 8 years old the battery is not holding charge.

Had no plans to go far the next few days so ran idle for 1/2 hr, drove to town, let idle then drove home. 1hour total.

Today, start was even worse. Clicking sounds no turn over. Third attempt OK.

 

Not sure what "error" I have made here or how I "got it so low" just been normal driving with no sudden drain of battery power that I am aware of.

 

So Maybe I'm wrong with the battery diagnosis, just thought that after 8 years and "battery low" warning that would be the first step?

 

Replacement battery is 60Ah, EFB same physical size.

 

Thanks for the link to the Manual and the tips re heater blower

 

Edited 1 October, 20241 yr by Blindman

The "error" is not giving the overlords computers what they want which is not too low state of charge or they can often play up in all sorts of unexpected ways before you're anywhere near the engine not actually starting.

 

57 minutes ago, Blindman said:

Today, start was even worse. Clicking sounds no turn over. Third attempt OK.

That shouldn't really be so, if you have clicking it shouldn't then start after on the same untouched battery for a flat battery.  Any electrical or engine starting issues are always best sorted with a fully charged battery, hopefully your new battery will be fully charged or near enough.

 

Battery may not be holding it's charge or not so well being 8 years old and/or it might (or might not) be you put insufficient charge back into the battery for its condition.

 

Did you check the terminal clamps were secure (tight), same for main earth connection, live and earth cables, wires, connections look OK?

 

A new battery might sort things, just that starting after clicking doesn't fit, unless I've misunderstood.

 

60, 59Ah, I don't think even the VW overlord computers are that finickity and same EFB type, there is a school of thought that the computers will pick up on the battery improvement with use and I've been told and seen on here were some people have just done a battery change without 'coding' and without issues from not 'coding', whether this ultimately has any effect on the new battery's life only time would tell and then you'd have to factor in that even though the battery is new the rest of the car (alternator, computer systems, sensors, electrics and items) aren't so there more likelihood of the second battery not lasting as long as the first if used in the same.

 

For OBDEleven 'coding' there's (was?)s a choice of EFB or EFB+, unless you've ordered an EFB+ battery (unlikely) obviously you want EFB.

 

As an example only, the following is from when a BriSkoda member used his OBDEleven to 'code' the replacement AGM battery for my wife's Fabia, as already put only the type (EFB, AGM) and Ah (59, 60) and changing the serial number (you can put what you like AFAIK but changing the end digit is easiest) are important (VW call AGM "fleece").

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Edited 1 October, 20241 yr by nta16

17 hours ago, nta16 said:

The "error" is not giving the overlords computers what they want which is not too low state of charge or they can often play up in all sorts of unexpected ways before you're anywhere near the engine not actually starting.

 

That shouldn't really be so, if you have clicking it shouldn't then start after on the same untouched battery for a flat battery.  Any electrical or engine starting issues are always best sorted with a fully charged battery, hopefully your new battery will be fully charged or near enough.

 

Battery may not be holding it's charge or not so well being 8 years old and/or it might (or might not) be you put insufficient charge back into the battery for its condition.

 

Did you check the terminal clamps were secure (tight), same for main earth connection, live and earth cables, wires, connections look OK?

 

A new battery might sort things, just that starting after clicking doesn't fit, unless I've misunderstood.

 

60, 59Ah, I don't think even the VW overlord computers are that finickity and same EFB type, there is a school of thought that the computers will pick up on the battery improvement with use and I've been told and seen on here were some people have just done a battery change without 'coding' and without issues from not 'coding', whether this ultimately has any effect on the new battery's life only time would tell and then you'd have to factor in that even though the battery is new the rest of the car (alternator, computer systems, sensors, electrics and items) aren't so there more likelihood of the second battery not lasting as long as the first if used in the same.

 

For OBDEleven 'coding' there's (was?)s a choice of EFB or EFB+, unless you've ordered an EFB+ battery (unlikely) obviously you want EFB.

 

As an example only, the following is from when a BriSkoda member used his OBDEleven to 'code' the replacement AGM battery for my wife's Fabia, as already put only the type (EFB, AGM) and Ah (59, 60) and changing the serial number (you can put what you like AFAIK but changing the end digit is easiest) are important (VW call AGM "fleece").

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Battery changed today.

 

Starts no issues.

 

Can't road test today as the drive is being repaved. Should be OK tomorrow. 

 

I may look up a member to code the battery just for peace of mind. DIY option of buying Kit and using App looks to be same cost £40ish)

26 minutes ago, Blindman said:

 

 

I may look up a member to code the battery just for peace of mind. DIY option of buying Kit and using App looks to be same cost £40ish)

If only I could find that link....

 

Any help here please?

9 hours ago, Blindman said:

If only I could find that link....

 

Any help here please?

Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Thanks