I've owned my 2013 Superb Elegance diesel estate since new, and it still has the original battery. I'm thinking it may be a good idea to change it this winter - the motor car has never failed to start but I perceive cranking is a little slower than it was on cold days. Part of the problem is that now I've retired from mainstream work I do very few miles (I have several classic motor cars and a gaggle of motorcycles with which to share my social and domestic mileage).

 

I have two questions before I do:

 

• firstly do I need to provide a back up battery (perhaps via the diagnosis port) to avoid losing the information centre's settings before I remove the old battery (I had a Porsche Boxster like that once - I think I still may have the little fly lead from that episode)? I should still have any codes for the radio and so on in the original dealer documentation, should that be required.
• secondly is anyone able to recommend a good replacement battery (it has the stop/start system and the original battery is the AGM type)?

 

Alan.

When I swapped my battery out I connected a spare via jump leads before I disconnected the old one!

Can't remember off the top of my head which battery I bought but it was 70 Ahr I believe for stop start

3 hours ago, Jaynet62 said:

When I swapped my battery out I connected a spare via jump leads before I disconnected the old one!

Can't remember off the top of my head which battery I bought but it was 70 Ahr I believe for stop start

So there is a need to provide a back up power source before changing the battery?

Alan

There is no need to maintain power during battery replacement. Infotainment settings will be retained.

It is important that the new battery is properly adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM.

Any random faults generated on restoration of power will automatically clear after a short drive.

8 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

It is important that the new battery is properly adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM.

 

On a 2013 vehicle?

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

 

On a 2013 vehicle?

See last bullet point of first post.

Thanks Pete, my 2015 vehicle does not have it but I know some earlier VAG vehicles were made to the the higher emissions standard, also Greenline models maybe?

 

Something else I am grateful for!

Edited 18 December, 20241 yr by J.R.

2 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

There is no need to maintain power during battery replacement. Infotainment settings will be retained.

It is important that the new battery is properly adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM.

Any random faults generated on restoration of power will automatically clear after a short drive.

 

Many thanks, but you have gone a bit too fast for me there. What do you mean by coded? Is that something I could do myself?

 

Alan

 

Addendum: this is the original battery:

 

 

Edited 18 December, 20241 yr by Othen

the date of the battery will be etched on the negative terminal of the battery..mine is also a 2013 but facelift..changed mine in January of this year as it was original..coded it myself to the car

5 minutes ago, David6253 said:

the date of the battery will be etched on the negative terminal of the battery..mine is also a 2013 but facelift..changed mine in January of this year as it was original..coded it myself to the car

Super, but in nice, simple terms, how does one go about coding a battery to a car?

 

Alan

3 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

On a 2013 vehicle?

OP stated the vehicle has stop/start.

14 minutes ago, Othen said:

Super, but in nice, simple terms, how does one go about coding a battery to a car?

 

Alan

Battery adaptation (coding) requires VCDS or OBD11 device to input new battery details into the vehicles BCM. It is recommended to do it to ensure any existing battery defects that may be affecting alternator charging, are cleared - even if replacement battery is identical type and capacity to original.

Battery adaptation is a particular requirement if the replacement battery differs in any way from the original.

There is a register on this forum of members who may be near you and available to do this adaptation for you. Some retail battery outlets are able to do the adaptation.  

1 hour ago, Warrior193 said:

Battery adaptation (coding) requires VCDS or OBD11 device to input new battery details into the vehicles BCM. It is recommended to do it to ensure any existing battery defects that may be affecting alternator charging, are cleared - even if replacement battery is identical type and capacity to original.

Battery adaptation is a particular requirement if the replacement battery differs in any way from the original.

There is a register on this forum of members who may be near you and available to do this adaptation for you. Some retail battery outlets are able to do the adaptation.  

Ah! Thank you. So I can do the spannering to change the battery myself, but then I need a chap with the right computer to tell my motorcar what has been done, even if I buy exactly the same battery as the original, but maybe I can find a forum member near Skeg-Vegas that might have the right computer. Now I understand.

 

Life has become so much more complicated with modern motorcars. My others are a 1963 Volvo Amazon and a 1972 P1800ES… both are so simple in comparison.

 

🙃 Alan

 

Addendum: I’ve just looked up OBD11 and found this hand held reader that the seller claims is for VAG cars on Amazon:

 

OBD11 reader on Amazon

 

… it is only £67, which is perhaps cheaper than it might cost for a dealer or specialist garage to do it for me, and I would have the computer to keep (although I haven’t needed one this past 11 years). Would this machine work? Could I use it to tell my car about a new battery? Would it likely be useful in the future (I like the motor car, I’ve owner it from new and it has only covered 90,000 miles)?

Edited 18 December, 20241 yr by Othen
Grammar

I will let others comment on the suitability of that device - but, from what I have read regarding accessing the vehicles computers, be very wary of using any 'One Touch' device - they can result in inadvertent (and possibly extremely difficult to reverse) changes. 

1 hour ago, Warrior193 said:

I will let others comment on the suitability of that device - but, from what I have read regarding accessing the vehicles computers, be very wary of using any 'One Touch' device - they can result in inadvertent (and possibly extremely difficult to reverse) changes. 

Thank you. It would be helpful to know other’s recommendations regarding OBD11 computers. There is no great rush, the battery certainly hasn’t failed after 11 years, I’m just thinking it would be prudent to change it.

Alan

I used VCDS to do the battery coding, or the BMS (battery management system) coding to be more technically correct as the process does nothing to the battery. The process is setting new values in the BMS.

Those values being Battery Type e.g. EFB, AGM (old name was Fleece),  Battery Ah, Battery Manufacturer (don't think this even matters), Battery serial number (even if none of the former changes then change this to reset the charging profile, the value itself doesn't matter, it is just a change that matters)

 

OBD11 is completely capable of editing those data values. It is simply a matter of selecting from choices and typing values in boxes.

 

Search on Google for Battery coding using OBD11, you'll find find YouTube videos and other guides. You'll see it is quite simple.

 

I read earlier about keeping a 12v power feed on the vehicle while swapping the battery. It's not necessarily, all you'll lose is the trip milage and the clock time. The fault light will auto clear on a round the block drive with some left and right turns.

 

As a final comment look at Carista as well, as an alternative to OBD11. As said earlier I use VCDS and don't have personal experience of either of the others, but I have read that Carista is simpler to use 

Edited 18 December, 20241 yr by aubrey

10 hours ago, aubrey said:

I used VCDS to do the battery coding, or the BMS (battery management system) coding to be more technically correct as the process does nothing to the battery. The process is setting new values in the BMS.

Those values being Battery Type e.g. EFB, AGM (old name was Fleece),  Battery Ah, Battery Manufacturer (don't think this even matters), Battery serial number (even if none of the former changes then change this to reset the charging profile, the value itself doesn't matter, it is just a change that matters)

 

OBD11 is completely capable of editing those data values. It is simply a matter of selecting from choices and typing values in boxes.

 

Search on Google for Battery coding using OBD11, you'll find find YouTube videos and other guides. You'll see it is quite simple.

 

I read earlier about keeping a 12v power feed on the vehicle while swapping the battery. It's not necessarily, all you'll lose is the trip milage and the clock time. The fault light will auto clear on a round the block drive with some left and right turns.

 

As a final comment look at Carista as well, as an alternative to OBD11. As said earlier I use VCDS and don't have personal experience of either of the others, but I have read that Carista is simpler to use 

Thank you for that. Carista looks like it is quite similar to OBD11 and works via an app on an iPhone, it seems to be quite inexpensive though at only £27:

 

Carista

 

... does anyone know whether this would work? If it would then I'll order one on Amazon today - it might be handy to have in the garage anyway.

 

Alan 

 

Addendum: I've ordered the Carista - at £27 it is probably worth a punt. The process looks quite simple according to this handy  YouTube video:

 

Christa YouTube video

Edited 19 December, 20241 yr by Othen

44 minutes ago, Othen said:

Addendum: I've ordered the Carista - at £27 it is probably worth a punt. The process looks quite simple according to this handy  YouTube video:

Let us know how you get on. That is the older Carista adapter, with some functional differences compared to the current one. I believe to make the app work, you need a subscription (monthly, quarterly or yearly).

1 hour ago, beneix said:

Let us know how you get on. That is the older Carista adapter, with some functional differences compared to the current one. I believe to make the app work, you need a subscription (monthly, quarterly or yearly).

The ad says there is a free version of the app plus a free one month trial of the full version. Depending on whether the battery registration stuff is in the free or subscription version will dictate whether this is a once only use or not. At £27 it is cheap enough to be a burner.

 

I’ve done some Internet reading this morning, opinion seems divided upon whether it is necessary to re-code the battery or not. Quite a few owners say the motorcar just learns itself over a few miles driving, others say the world will probably end without it. I haven’t found anyone that says they had significant problems having changed the battery but not registered the battery yet, although perhaps folk would not admit that? Having ordered the Carista I might as well give it a go now.

 

One more question if I may: when I order a new battery do I need to specify the code: 7P0 915 105? If I do so will that necessarily be sufficient to make sure the replacement has the right form and electrical specification?

 

Alan

Edited 19 December, 20241 yr by Othen

I'd just go to the Tayna website and input the reg number. That's all I did and confirmed the result matched in size, terminal configuration, Ah.  Then just ordered the Varta AGM one.

This one ?

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/a7/

On 19/12/2024 at 08:24, Othen said:

The ad says there is a free version of the app plus a free one month trial of the full version. Depending on whether the battery registration stuff is in the free or subscription version will dictate whether this is a once only use or not. At £27 it is cheap enough to be a burner.

 

I’ve done some Internet reading this morning, opinion seems divided upon whether it is necessary to re-code the battery or not. Quite a few owners say the motorcar just learns itself over a few miles driving, others say the world will probably end without it. I haven’t found anyone that says they had significant problems having changed the battery but not registered the battery yet, although perhaps folk would not admit that? Having ordered the Carista I might as well give it a go now.

 

One more question if I may: when I order a new battery do I need to specify the code: 7P0 915 105? If I do so will that necessarily be sufficient to make sure the replacement has the right form and electrical specification?

 

Alan

I have the original version of Carista dongle, mostly used to monitor status of the DPF using VAG DPF software as it's the cheapest approved hardware for that app.  But recently renewed subs for £10 for 1 month to code in third new battery on my FL 4x4 CR170 estate and also new battery my better Half's BMW series 2.  Bear in mind that on Superb it can only change the battery serial number, not battery type or capacity which VCDS can.  That's fine as long as you are replacing like for like as incrementing the serial number is enough to tell the car the battery is new and to charge it accordingly.  But no good if you are swapping EFB / AGM or different Ah rating.

I got round to changing the battery today - a new 90AH Exide battery had arrived a few days ago. Thank you for the help and advice to everyone - swapping the old battery out was simple enough and all the fault lights disappeared once I'd swung the steering to and fro a couple of times.

 

The Carista dongle prompted me to the app store as soon as the BT connected to my iPhone. The Carista software is simple enough to use - I chose the year's subscription for about £25 option - I probably could have got a free month by going for the £60/year/pay monthly option and cancelling it straight away, but that seemed a bit tightwad to me and I'm happy enough with £25. The software allowed me to change the capacity to 70 AH, the manufacturer to Exide and I gave it a different serial number, that only took a few minutes. Before I disconnected I ran the diagnosis programme and it picked up and cleared a few fault codes.

 

I took the motorcar for a drive - long enough to get up to full temperature - and was surprised that the Stop/Start system has fixed itself. It probably stopped working a few years ago, but I never much liked it so that hadn't bothered me. Anyway - everything is working fine now and starting is no longer laboured.

 

The old battery is still holding about 12.5v - around 80% charge - so I'll keep it as a workshop 12v source, which is always handy.

 

Best wishes for a prosperous 2025.

 

Alan

1 hour ago, Othen said:

I got round to changing the battery today - a new 90AH Exide battery had arrived a few days ago. Thank you for the help and advice to everyone - swapping the old battery out was simple enough and all the fault lights disappeared once I'd swung the steering to and fro a couple of times.

 

The Carista dongle prompted me to the app store as soon as the BT connected to my iPhone. The Carista software is simple enough to use - I chose the year's subscription for about £25 option - I probably could have got a free month by going for the £60/year/pay monthly option and cancelling it straight away, but that seemed a bit tightwad to me and I'm happy enough with £25. The software allowed me to change the capacity to 70 AH, the manufacturer to Exide and I gave it a different serial number, that only took a few minutes. Before I disconnected I ran the diagnosis programme and it picked up and cleared a few fault codes.

 

I took the motorcar for a drive - long enough to get up to full temperature - and was surprised that the Stop/Start system has fixed itself. It probably stopped working a few years ago, but I never much liked it so that hadn't bothered me. Anyway - everything is working fine now and starting is no longer laboured.

 

The old battery is still holding about 12.5v - around 80% charge - so I'll keep it as a workshop 12v source, which is always handy.

 

Best wishes for a prosperous 2025.

 

Alan

I assume that you actually meant you changed the settings FROM 70 AH to 90 AH for the new battery? 

4 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

I assume that you actually meant you changed the settings FROM 70 AH to 90 AH for the new battery? 

Ah! No my fat fingers, I meant Exide 70AH battery in the first sentence. The original was 67AH, so the change was to 70AH.

 

Well spotted.

 

Alan

Edited 1 January, 20251 yr by Othen