Seeing as I clearly have a thing for RacingLine at the mo, I’m looking at their dogbone mount. Had an APR one on my old S4 and def felt the difference. 
 

Question is, they quote two different parts depending on which is the standard part-fitted. Is there a way I can find out or is it a case of crawling under the car to have a look?

 

https://www.racingline.com/_files/ugd/653f35_0fd77278a5904125bac16e39bc53dd36.pdf

mine is MY17 and mine uses Version 2.

i have been using the 034 Motorsport Dogbone Lower Insert for many years now.  excellent addition and no issues. 

 

 

Great, was hoping it was a revision thing and not a FWD/AWD thing; yours is FWD so looks to be a revision thing and mine will be v2 on that basis. Good to know it has the desired effect too; Cheers all round!

 

What does this actually alter on the car? 

41 minutes ago, Itsrelfy said:

What does this actually alter on the car? 

 

- Reduced to no axle tramp

- better engine response as the engine rocks less back n forth

- crisper gear shifts because less engine rocking

Sounds like lots of positives. Any drawbacks? 

1 hour ago, Itsrelfy said:

Sounds like lots of positives. Any drawbacks? 

 

Some dogbone inserts, like the polyurethane versions can introduce higher levels of noise vibration & harshness (NVH), especially when in Reverse.

 

I didn't have any increase in NVH levels with the 034 Motorsport version, which is aluminium.

Interesting, I am following this as well .... I had selected this mod when I have time ... question for JR that has done the mode, as is not indicated in the installation ... the drop arm can be removed with the transmission as it is, or it need to be supported separately by a jack/stand?

I should also crawl down there and take a look at the mount ...

 

Travis, this website has a lot of cool stuff ... 🤪

Can this mount be seen without removing anything? It would be interesting to get under mine and see what time is fitted. 

 

The dogbone pendulum arm does not need to be removed or dropped.

Simply remove the single bolt, place dogbone insert, reinstall bolt and torque to spec. 140Nm + 90 degrees.

 

U can see it with the car on ramps or on a hoist.  It's not covered by the plastic undertray.

 

I had mine up on ramps when I did mine.

U need a breaker bar to undo the bolt.

If the bolt is not sliding out easily after loosening it, or still tight, u might have to rock the engine block a little back or forward, depending on the angle of the car.

The bolt will come loose.  It's a long bolt.

 

No need for any additional support.

 

The Racingline instructions and a Youtube how-to video on the 034 equivalent both have the dogbone itself removed so that the upper part can be fitted. Two bolts at the front, slide the dogbone out, insert the upper mount, slide the dogbone back in (effectively through the hole in the upper mount), then fit the lower mount. @JR RS did you fit the lower one only? 

@travs - correct, I put the lower insert only.

Doing both upper and lower will definitely increase NVH, which I did not want.

In for a penny…I’ll let you know how it goes with both. Ordered.

Officially the process calls for a new bolt each fitting.  I have fitted a poly version to two cars so far with the original bolts and not had an issue.

So...after fitting the upper part, it turns out I didn't need Version 2 ffs🤯

 

Double-checked original part numbers with Autodoc - 5Q0 198 037 F  seems to be only for Kodiaq 2, 5Q0 198 037 A is for basically the rest of the Skoda range as well as Golf Mk8 and Audi A3 8Y (another relatively positive indicator). No way was that fitting. 

 

Thankfully, Lewis @ AwesomeGTI has been an utter star in arranging to send out a V1 lower part only and then I can return the V2 when  just outside the returns window so thankfully, not much and it'll be sorted! 

So, how is it with the 'new dogbone'?

And so since we are both with the same car I should directly seek a V1 version ...

I look at the dealer you used and I closed quickly the site ... too much nice stuff 😜

This topic is not quite over yet. 
Got the replacement part, took it to the mech and…doesn’t fit.

 

I clearly needed the V1 which I originally ordered as you’ll see from the photos but you should also see why V1 doesn’t fit. There are some slight mouldings within the recess which stop the right version from fitting. 
 

So…I need to see if the guy at Awesome will swap the bit back as that was what I’ve bought and I’ve got the upper mount in already. 
then I need to consider options. Most likely seeing if I can get a pattern part that doesn’t have these new revisions and see if that fits and so the v1 lower mount can fit. Annoying but it’s just a case of aftermarket guys not knowing about slight revisions.

10 hours ago, leolito said:

So, how is it with the 'new dogbone'?

And so since we are both with the same car I should directly seek a V1 version ...

I look at the dealer you used and I closed quickly the site ... too much nice stuff 😜

Best thing to do is get under and take a picture of the engine mount. You can see it easily without removing anything - the point being you want to look very carefully inside the recess  if its not smooth and empty inside, like the first diagram, neither will fit. Compare my pic to @JR RS's above.

 

5Q0 198 037 A for the round one (V1)

5Q0 198 037 F for thee triangular one (v2)

5q0 198 037 L - the one that no-one has accounted for...

Edited 26 February, 20251 yr by travs

Sorry to hear of this mishap ... so I see both sems to be roughly triangular in shape, but JR's "lower end" in the photos (I had written "lover end" before correcting 🤪) seems straight while yours has got some indent or locking tab of sorts ... indeed looks closer to V2.

What is this mount made of? Think it could be machined to remove material, to allow for the "recess" to fit tight to the part?

Yeah, it would not be a direct fit part, but ....

 

I will try to find a moment to look at mine.

 

Part numbers and version fitment. Is purely down to engine code.

37 minutes ago, leolito said:

Sorry to hear of this mishap ... so I see both sems to be roughly triangular in shape, but JR's "lower end" in the photos (I had written "lover end" before correcting 🤪) seems straight while yours has got some indent or locking tab of sorts ... indeed looks closer to V2.

What is this mount made of? Think it could be machined to remove material, to allow for the "recess" to fit tight to the part?

Yeah, it would not be a direct fit part, but ....

 

I will try to find a moment to look at mine.

 

Not sure what the metal is, aluminium maybe? I guess the rubber is what absorbs the load in the main but I’m no engineer. 
 

There is a little tab at the bottom of the triangle, but the bolt head is also recessed because they’ve put more material inside the triangle. 
 

Spoke to the mechanic about getting a new mount so that the insert can fit and he said it’s a lot of time as they’re pressed straight into the subframe. So they drop the subframe down so they can get it in the press. All of a sudden, 3 hours labour becomes an expensive job for the gain.

 

Its not even worth removing material from the insert because of the build up around the bolt head; you need to end up with a much shallower insert, but then it wouldn’t be flush so the bolt head is not pulling against the mount. 

 

Basically, I see my options as:

1. New mount insert with A or F code

2. New version made by Racingline (or APR/034) by moulding the L part.

3. Accept I’ll only have the upper insert (albeit not happy that RL think that it transfers more and damages the mount) and sell in the lower part.
 

Edited 4 March, 20251 yr by travs

That's a shame to hear @travs 

I've heard some facelift Superb, and the newer Arteon owners were unable to use either V1 or V2 versions.

 

On the other hand, some facelift Superb have had no issues either.

 

Weird.

No one yet has figured out why VWAG changed that bit.

 

2 hours ago, JR RS said:

That's a shame to hear @travs 

I've heard some facelift Superb, and the newer Arteon owners were unable to use either V1 or V2 versions.

 

On the other hand, some facelift Superb have had no issues either.

 

Weird.

No one yet has figured out why VWAG changed that bit.

 

Win some lose some. Googling the L part number only comes up with the Superb and Arteon; must be the only other model with those engines. I’ll mull over some of the options for replacements but I’ll not be in any rush. The guy from AwesomeGTI is still looking at options so will be interesting if he comes up with anything I’ve not thought of.

 

On the basis of some facelifts being ok, must be some of the older engines (i.e. engine codes starting with C) still using the A-F part numbers.

Edited 26 February, 20251 yr by travs

2 hours ago, travs said:

On the basis of some facelifts being ok, must be some of the older engines (i.e. engine codes starting with C) still using the A-F part numbers.

 

Correct - here in Oz, we continued to get the 280 engine with the facelift Superb, because of our less stricter emissions requirements. 

we didn't get the normal facelift Superb paired with the 272 engine. 

we did get 300 Scout facelift Superbs though with the 272 engine.  those will likely have the weird dogbone mount.