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Rapid Spaceback 1.2 TSI 2015 front hub nut socket size?

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Hello,

I'm trying to find out what size of 12 point spline socket I'd need to remove the front hub nuts on a 2015 Rapid Spaceback 1.2 TSI.  One site I read said 36mm but the only sizes in the VAG compatible sets I've found are 24, 30 and 32mm.  I don't want to buy a set and find they don't fit.  Please can anyone tell me what I need for this?  Have just replaced a front coil spring and it was a total PITA to do without losening the hub nut.  The other side will need doing at some point no doubt so want to have the tool for it when that happens.

Cheers, Mike...

 

6 hours ago, Screamager said:

Hello,

I'm trying to find out what size of 12 point spline socket I'd need to remove the front hub nuts on a 2015 Rapid Spaceback 1.2 TSI.  One site I read said 36mm but the only sizes in the VAG compatible sets I've found are 24, 30 and 32mm.  I don't want to buy a set and find they don't fit.  Please can anyone tell me what I need for this?  Have just replaced a front coil spring and it was a total PITA to do without losening the hub nut.  The other side will need doing at some point no doubt so want to have the tool for it when that happens.

Cheers, Mike...

 

 

The OEM part number of the nut is 6Q0407396B as shown in the Rapid parts catalogue.

 

Going by a Febi listing for this nut on autodoc, it looks like it takes a 12-point (aka double hex) 36mm socket.

 

Rapid parts catalogue

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/RAP/740/4/407/407000

 

FEBI BILSTEIN 30028 Nut, stub axle (sold to replace 6Q0407396B and two other OEM part numbers)

FEBI BILSTEIN Front Axle Left, Front Axle Right Nut, stub axle 30028 buy

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/1886231#nut-stub-axle

 

Edited by Carlston

  • Author

Thank you Carlston.  Annoying that an alleged VAG compatible set doesn't include a socket for all VAG models.  I'm guessing the Rapid uses the same part as the Fabia which has to be one of their best selling cars!  Any way, glad I have the info I need now and didn't buy a set I don't need.  Thanks again, Mike...

 

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May also be worth measuring the diameter of the space around the nut, and making sure that the socket you buy isn't too big on its overall diameter.

Vaguely remember that on a Fabia mk1 the OD of the socket mustn't be bigger than about 49mm. My memory may not be correct though, and your model may have more (or possibly even less) room. Best to check.

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Thanks for the hint, I'll have to get the weel off and measure that.

Cheers, Mike....

 

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Wheel cover or centre cap off should reveal it, I think, no need to take wheel off?

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TBH I've never removed the centre caps before so I didn't think of it but you're right, that should be enough, as long as I can get my callipers in to measure.  Thanks for the idea.

Mike...

 

Just one thing, if it was the RHS front spring you were replacing, then it's always better to remove that nut to get the drive shaft out so that you can get the hub down low enough to get the hub carrier out of the strut "socket", so, if it is now the LHS spring that you are now planning to replace, you don't need to get that hub nut off as you can get the hub down low enough with the drive shaft in in place.

 

It was a Laser Tools 36mm Bi Hex 1/2" drv deep socket that I bought back in maybe 2008/2009 - and that one had slim enough walls Laser  0954  there will probably be other cheaper ones that might fit.

 

Edit:- checking for wall thickness is a very valid point, I might have struck lucky, found one being sold in damaged packaging at a market stand at what I thought at the time was a good price, so bought it. My other worry was "do I need a deep socket seeing as that nut is quite "high" ?" so I just played safe and bought a deep impact socket, and in time, that worked out well for me.

 

Maybe the nut is not "high" but the drive shaft projects out of it quite a bit.

Edited by rum4mo

  • Author

Thank you for those extra pieces of info, I apprecaite it.

We certainly found out about the RHS one being a total sod.  Luckily we were doing it at my mate's work and we used a forklift on the droplink tabs of the shock to compress the spring and strut enough to get the hub back on!  Was dreading the LHS one going but if that one will drop far enough then it'll be relatively easy to do.  Thanks again.

Mike...

 

There seems to be a method used in USA by the VW Golf owners, called the "2 X4" method, that seems to involve jacking the strut up using the ARB drop link bolt and its bracket to "secure" a length of 2" X 4" with a bottle jack or trolley jack under it, that obviously allows "you" to compress the spring  and so the hub carrier socket can be separated from the bottom of the strut - I'm certainly not recommending using method as it seems to be quite risky!

 

One other tool that I'd suggest is a "must" when doing this job, is a "hub splitter" bit, again Laser Tools sell their version of this official VW Group tool, but I've noticed some others selling the exact same item a lot cheaper.

 

It is used to slightly open up the pinch point after removing the pinch bolt and nut. Laser Tools 3396

Edited by rum4mo

  • Author

I saw in a video someone using a length of scafolding pole to do the same thing as teh 2x4, we tried it with a piece of box section that was lying around but the strut started moving to the side.  We couldn't keep it straight and the risk of losing a hand seemed quite high so we packed that in smartish!  For the hub splitter a chisel was used, the proper tool would have been better.  I'll look into getting one of those for when the other side needs replacing.

Mike...

 

I used small chisels and smallish screwdriver bits, chisels kept slipping, I broke the screwdriver bit, but worked round that issue on the RHS, which had a broken spring on the first car I did this job on, sort of dreaded doing the other side, but by that time having the hub splitter tool and no need to remove the drive shaft, and being able to chose the time of year to do that other side  - first side was 2nd January!, made the LHS a lot easier and quicker.

If you're using a chisel to spread it, there's a risk of going too far and cracking the hub (I've done that). Use the right tool, they're cheap. 

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