Hi folks,

 

I had put through my 2006, VRS for it's MOT last month and it failed on the below.

 

It shouldn't have failed on the EML being on as it's not testable on a 2006 diesel, last I checked.

Oil leak was from when the tandem up was leaking for a while. It was replaced and cleaned up as best as i could prior to the MOT but the oil is still wet in areas.
Brake pipes aren't corroded at all. But they're covered in grease so the don't corrode. Shame i didn't do it earlier on the power steering pipes.

 

The stability management light issue is when the engine has been idling for 10 minutes, it comes on. It happened after alternator was replaced.

I fixed the same issue on my Ibiza almost 10 years back and if i remember right, it was the load balance cable for the alternator loom.
This time i'm struggling to find the break in the cable. Any tips? Or is it just a case of peel it all back and visually?

It looks like one of the metal sections on the power steering pipe on the top of the picture is the one leaking fluid (i'd cleaned it all up here so i could access it better)
The bottom pipe is on it's way out as well by the looks of it so i'd like to replace both.

Is this a hard job to do? I'm okay with all things suspension, brakes and some light stuff around engines but wondering what i need to strip for access to make it easy on the driveway.
I had a look on here, using search and it suggested the power steering pipes might not be available any more.
is this true and if so, what have people been doing, to resolve it?

Many thanks.

 

 

You're right about the MIL, shouldn't have been relevant because:

 

"You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008."

 

The 10 minute warning light is almost certainly either the replacement alternator wasn't compatible, the connector at the alt was not refitted, or was broken, or the DFM wire (the one that isn't blue) between alternator and ECU.

If you let me know build date of car, or reg or VIN I can look up exact circuit info. 

 

Wheel arch liner removal will obviously be a good start in accessing the PAS pipes. Never got down and dirty with them myself though.  Repair of what you have may be the best strategy, followed by trying to find some better condition ones from scrappies.

@Hardcore @Breezy_Pete I'm also wondering if the ESC "fault" could be low voltage?

On 24/02/2025 at 08:15, Breezy_Pete said:

You're right about the MIL, shouldn't have been relevant because:

 

"You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008."

 

The 10 minute warning light is almost certainly either the replacement alternator wasn't compatible, the connector at the alt was not refitted, or was broken, or the DFM wire (the one that isn't blue) between alternator and ECU.

If you let me know build date of car, or reg or VIN I can look up exact circuit info. 

 

Wheel arch liner removal will obviously be a good start in accessing the PAS pipes. Never got down and dirty with them myself though.  Repair of what you have may be the best strategy, followed by trying to find some better condition ones from scrappies.

 

The alternator from when i got the car in 2015 was a 90amp one i think and when the pulley on it exploded, I was looking at replacements and found my car was supposed to have a higher amp one (120amps from memory) as it had factory fitted electric seats and that's what I got. But i got someone else to fit it, as i was ill.

Is it possible to leave something unplugged from the alternator and if so, is it possible to reconnect it, without removing the alternator? I guess i just assumed it had a single plug.

Car registration is currently on a private plate as VR51 TAM. Built in 2005, but registered in 2006 if that helps (need to dig out the V5 for VIN)

Hoping it's just a wire though.

With work commitments and weather i've not had a chance to inspect it yet and looks likely to be next weekend at the soonest.

 

On 24/02/2025 at 13:40, Paws4Thot said:

@Hardcore @Breezy_Pete I'm also wondering if the ESC "fault" could be low voltage?

 

It's had 2 x brand new replacement batteries in the same time period so maybe not, unless it's something else battery related.
It happened the same day the alternator was replaced.

Yes, there's just the two-way signal connector and the hefty output wire, but it is quite possible to not reconnect that 2-way, or the latch on it be broken so it doesn't stay properly mated.  I'd imagine it's accessible enough to get at without major disassembly. 

 

Does battery light come on with ignition? That's the other wire in the 2-way.

I think febi do power steering hoses and pipes. Not sure about VRS but folks got them a few years back for there 1.9tdi. Part number I came up with is FEBI 186139

Alasdair

2 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Yes, there's just the two-way signal connector and the hefty output wire, but it is quite possible to not reconnect that 2-way, or the latch on it be broken so it doesn't stay properly mated.  I'd imagine it's accessible enough to get at without major disassembly. 

 

Does battery light come on with ignition? That's the other wire in the 2-way.

 

The battery light does come on so not sure if that makes it any easier to troubleshoot from my side. Check wires? If so, which one, and could it still be alternator issue with compatibility?

 

46 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

I think febi do power steering hoses and pipes. Not sure about VRS but folks got them a few years back for there 1.9tdi. Part number I came up with is FEBI 186139

Alasdair

 

It looks like it's 3 pipes when checking underneath but the pipes so not sure if 3 different pipes or if all are the same. I'll need to wait to good weather to get them off to check design / shape and match them up. Will probably replace all 3 as they all look poorly.

Had a problem years ago with power steering pipes that had coroded and were impossible to get for  toyota lucida. I finally got a local hydraulic hose company to make me flexi hoses instead of the steel/flexi that was on the car. Tried measuring old pipe but eventually I got them to fit one end and then give me the slightly overlength hose. Ran it through the car and marked where I wanted the other end to finish. Luckily I had fairly straight runs and enough space to put a slow bend in hose for corners. Has been fine for years and still have car. Also repaired the 8mm steel oil cooler pipes on same car  using 8mm copper microbore central heating pipe and compression connectors. Still there and still ok It was lower pressure than steering though. I cant think of a reason to have steel pipe between flexis apart from the cost.

Alasdair

Looks like subframe has to be dropped to replace these pipes. Had the Fabia 9 years and have spent about £1500 on it in the last year, but this is the nail in the coffin for me. I'm so burnt out from work every day I just don't have the mental capacity to deal with any more big jobs so just need to get some affairs in order paperwork wise and will get it listed for spares or repairs.
Shame as has one of the rarer forge FMIC specifically for the VRS, Seat Surgeon Seats, original purchase receipt from Skoda etc but it's too big a job to do on my driveway for me and i can't afford to put more money into it, to have it recovered to a garage i'd trust to do the work for me.
Being replaced by a Renault Modus of all things

I don't think it does, the pipes are just clipped to the subframe, you have to drop the subframe to remove the steering rack.