Hello,

I hope it's OK to open new topic for my issue.

I am having problems with the rear left door lock on my 2018 Škoda Superb Combi 2,0 TDI.

Part number of the lock: 5TA 839 015 H

Symptoms:

• Sometimes door lock works normally

• Then it stops working completely or only works one way (either locking or unlocking)

• Sometimes after rain (weather change) it fixes itself or changes it's function from locking to unlocking or vice versa.

Fault Codes:

I did a scan last summer, then my OBDEleven adapter died.

• B122D29 - Lock unit for central locking Implausible signal (static)

• B122B11 - Central locking motors Short circuit to ground (static)

• B122B12 - Central locking motors Short circuit to B+ (Intermittent)

I've Checked:

• For water ingress or damaged wires at door hinge/connector area

• I measured the signal to the lock motor and it actually comes trough, but only in the direction that it's 'working' at the time.

Before I take my lock apart, I got a lock from a junkyard (unfortunately not the same type as mine) to see if I could take it apart, and I did (picture attached).

The lock cover is glued on with some sealant, so if I were to put mine back together after, I would have to buy something to reseal it. What kind of sealant is that?

What else could I check/try?

Has anyone had similar problems?

At the authorized service center they told me that the lock needs to be changed, the price ca. 350 EUR.

I found a new lock for about 250 EUR, but what if the lock is not the problem.

Thank you.

Best Regards.

1 hour ago, univer said:

the price ca. 350 EUR.

problem better must be localized,

if it's orange marked part then it can be replaced by Electric suction

-> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/2/#findComment-5760904

Inconsistent rear door lock

Hello fellow sufferer I have exactly the same fault codes, Have you had any progress solving the problem?

Hi,

Sadly not.

It worked temporarily after my last 'inspection'. I sprayed both connectors and into the door lock with contact cleaner then. But I think this was just a coincidence.

Unfortunately, I haven't had time to investigate further. When I get to it I'll test all the signals/wires running from the door hinge connector to the control unit and door lock.

Meanwhile I am looking if I could find a used door lock to try replacing it.

But if you solve it first, please let me know how. 🙂

It needs a door latch. There’s a good chance it will eventually fail completely, and very likely in the locked position as I’ve seen many times.

Thanks for your ideas but I have a problem , the door is locked shut so I can't access the inside of the door to get to the lock. I am stuck at the moment and have no idea how to proceed. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Do you have the child lock activated?

Even when the door remains locked for me, I can open it with the inside door handle.

With child lock...

If you have electronic one try to deactivate it.

Otherwise.. I read online some succeeded by pulling and holding the inside door handle, then unlocking with the remote fob.

Others recommended thumping the door while pulling the handle and unlocking via the remote.

@UndertheRadar

What do you mean it needs a door latch?

I had an idea that one of the micro switches in my lock is messing up.

So it doesn't return the correct state and therefore control unit doesn't unlock or lock the door.

I did manually move the latch on the door lock when testing, so it should look like the door is closed..

But with my fault codes I would think it's a problem with the wiring.

If I don't find some time to inspect further soon, I might just take it to a repair shop to have it fixed. :)

I tried Univer's suggestion of pulling inside handle and using fob to open the door and it worked. Thank you very much. Next question is what would be the cause of the problem? I intend to follow your other suggestion of checking wiring and subsequently accessing the lock to look for any obvious faults. Thanks again.

When the latch starts to fail, it randomly opens and then doesn’t. The drive away locking starts messing about. Sometimes trying to lock everytime you hit 10 mph, which gets really annoying in traffic. Sometimes the outside handle becomes unresponsive and then sometimes the inside, and eventually both.

It can also cause faults to show on the other doors along with short to ground and implausible signal.

The door that’s messing about and not opening with the handle needs a new latch. Think they’re about £250 from TPS.

I have had the rear door lock problem as Univ has suffered. After checking wiring and connectors and finding them OK I concluded that it must be the lock, so I asked my local auto electric specialist to replace it. Hey presto , problem solved. It did cost over £400.00 which consisted of over £250.00 for the lock plus labour and VAT. SKODA/VAG prices for door locks seem very expensive.

Thanks for the feedback.

Since I don't use the back door that often, it didn't bother me enough to do something about it.

But after your feedback I'll probably get a new lock myself.

Maybe you could just tell me for how long you've had the new lock?

Has the weather changed much in the meantime (did the rain get you?) and the lock still works? :)

Only had lock fitted 15/5/25 so no idea how long it will last but it is working perfectly. Have hat to reset window and a few other minor resets using VCDS, but no real problems. Have just noticed lights in boot (hatchback) and rechargeable torch have no supply but 12volt socket still works , so I will look into that in due course.

Just to give an update on this topic.

I also replaced the lock and it works fine now.

But there is another issue with the car.

And to think, we almost bought another Škoda.. That would be a mistake!

On the way back from vacation, my car gave me the error code P173600 - Position sensor for clutch 2 Electrical error.

This caused the car to go into a limited transmission mode. As long as I had enough speed I could still drive forward, but the transmission would only use gears 7 - 5 - 3 | 1.

Once it got to the 1st gear it couldn't shift up.. so I had to stop and turn the car off. This mostly reset the fault for some time so I could drive on.. but let's just say that the remaining 300km (in traffic jams) was not fun.

I've already had the transmission serviced this year, so I can now expect an expensive repair again. - replacing the mechatronics unit.

Try a search on the forums, I recall seeing a post referring to someone reporting repairs to Mechatronic units.

Try ECU testing or control units for a repair rather than a replacement.

You mean service like this:

in UK, 480 EUR

in DE, 375 EUR

I'm worried that this wouldn't be a long-term solution.

I found new one from Germany for 732 EUR.

I'm waiting for two mechanics to see what they recommend.

For now here's some more information about my unit:

System description: GSG DQ381

Software number: 0GC300042H

Software version: 1404

Hardware number: 0GC927711G

Hardware version: H06

ODX name: EV_TCMDQ381061

ODX version: 001���

Long coding: 0014

 

Trouble codes:

P173600 - Position sensor for clutch 2 Electrical error

Intermittent