I was cleaning my dad's Fabia yesterday and noted the tyres had slight cracking in the tread slots. Not all the way around and not in every slot.

It recently passed its MOT with no advisory comments.

What is your thoughts? Is this likely just superficial or would you get them changed?

Tyres are Dunlop SP 2000. Sidewalls are perfect.

How old are the tyres ?

40 minutes ago, JimG59 said:

How old are the tyres ?

Just checked. 2008.

Tyres are 17 years old, is that right ? I think they are long overdue a change. Most guidelines reckon 10 year old tyres mean it’s time they were changed, no matter mileage.

I agree with @JimG59 but There is no definitive tyre age limit as to when you should replace your tyres but once your tyres reach 7-10 years old, you should keep a close eye on their condition and consider replacing them.

It is illegal for the front (steering) axle or axles of:

• goods vehicles with a gross mass more than 3.5 tonnes

• buses

• coaches

• minibuses and also to the rear axle, or axles, unless equipped with twin wheels

to use tyres aged more than 10-years.

Tyres are a very important and generally unrated complex component, an important part of brakes, steering and suspension systems (much more important than the engine).

It can depend on the tyres initial storage before fitting, then use and storage when on car as to how they age but in that photo that tyre at that point doesn't look good generally to me - but I'm not an expert in anything, just have decades of experience of owning and driving cars daily on our roads, some 20-50 years old, and of other "classic" (over-valued, over-priced old) cars and their owners, some who should have known better and some new to "classics".

Below an example of old (27 years at the time) tyres that looked very, very good or excellent (I forget) and had lots of tread depth on them, the owner (MR R G Everitt) long ago put photos up as advice and warning for other "classic" car owners and allowed me to do so too.

Of course your dad's tyres might be fine (????? ! ?????) and they might go on so for a good while yet - but- if you're cleaning his car for him you might value him over any inheritance and prefer to see new fresh tyres fitted. All the people that responded after changing to new tyres agreed that they wished they had done so sooner.

Edited 30 March30 Mar by nta16
spelling

Thanks for the thoughts. I just checked the fronts. Vredestein with a 2011 date code. No cracking at all, around 1mm left of tread before reaching the markers.

Ok I will suggest a renewal. It's hard to know from the outside what's going on.

Trouble is most affordable tyres now are often very poor imports. My mum had two Nankang NA1 fitted to her car and nearly had an accident as the car wouldn't take bends even at moderate speeds - the front just washed out. Luckily the tyres were also deemed unsafe by a third party adjudicator so she did get her money back. Like driving on a slippy jelly.

Tyres are 185/60R14 so any thoughts on a decent make and model are appreciated.

1 minute ago, Tailhappy said:

Ok I will suggest a renewal. It's hard to know from the outside what's going on.

Then change them! Tyres are the one contact point between a vehicle and the road - so, not only are they critical for handling, but they are one of the most important factors in safety.

Most manufacturers recommend replacing tyres 5-6 years, with a 10 year limit being for safety. Seventeen years old is long overdue for a change. You wouldn't catch me driving on tyres that old above 40mph.

5 minutes ago, Tailhappy said:

No cracking at all, around 1mm left of tread before reaching the markers.

What do you mean by the markers exactly? Depending on the brand, some tread wear markers are at 3mm, whilst some are right down to 1.6mm. Just because a tyre is legal does not mean it's safe. Of course, that depends on where the car is going (certainly I'd be inclined to change the tyres on a daily motorway car much sooner than a town car).

185/60R14 is quite a common size, so there's lots to choose from. Anything from Conti, Falken, Yoko, Hankook (even Toyo) is worth a look at. Judging by the sounds of it (please correct me if wrong), I would suggest getting the cheapest thing with a brand on it, and call it a day. Certainly, if your dad is getting 17 years from a tyre, I would imagine cornering grip and braking performance aren't of the biggest concern.

FYI - I was always told that the only acceptable cracking (not that there really is any) is on the blocks of the tyre. Anything sidewall or carcass, replace. Certainly, cracking on anything suggests that there is likely other issues in the carcass of the tyre.

Edited 30 March30 Mar by OccyVRS

What Does the MOT Tester Check on the Tyres?

The MOT tester inspects the tyres to ensure that they are in a roadworthy condition. During the test, the tester checks the following

Tyre Tread Depth

The tread depth of your car's tyres must be above the legal limit of 1.6mm. The tester uses a tread depth gauge to measure the depth of the tread. If the depth is below the legal limit, your car will fail the MOT test. The reason for this is that the tread provides the necessary grip and traction that your car needs to maintain control on the road.

Tyre Condition

The condition of the tyres is also checked during the MOT test. The tester inspects the tyres for cuts, bulges, or any other damage that can affect their safety. If there are any defects, the tester will recommend that you replace the tyres before driving. Driving with damaged tyres can cause blowouts or punctures, which can be dangerous, especially at high speeds.

1 minute ago, Stonekeeper said:

What Does the MOT Tester Check on the Tyres?

The MOT tester inspects the tyres to ensure that they are in a roadworthy condition. During the test, the tester checks the following

Tyre Tread Depth

The tread depth of your car's tyres must be above the legal limit of 1.6mm. The tester uses a tread depth gauge to measure the depth of the tread. If the depth is below the legal limit, your car will fail the MOT test. The reason for this is that the tread provides the necessary grip and traction that your car needs to maintain control on the road.

Tyre Condition

The condition of the tyres is also checked during the MOT test. The tester inspects the tyres for cuts, bulges, or any other damage that can affect their safety. If there are any defects, the tester will recommend that you replace the tyres before driving. Driving with damaged tyres can cause blowouts or punctures, which can be dangerous, especially at high speeds.

Yes, although I was meaning more factors such as the difference in wet braking distance with fresh vs worn tyres.

At 80kmph (50mph) you should be at least 53 metres from the car in front.

But this is now digressing from what the OP originally asked.

The recent MOT tester made no comment about the tyres.

9 hours ago, Tailhappy said:

It recently passed its MOT with no advisory comments.

If Dad just pops around town mainly?

https://www.asdatyres.co.uk/kumho/es31/185-60-14-82-h--es31?id=8808956238285

https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Kumho/Ecowing-ES31.htm

Edited 30 March30 Mar by Stonekeeper

1 hour ago, OccyVRS said:

I would suggest getting the cheapest thing with a brand on it, and call it a day.

If they're 185/60/14's, the price difference between a budget and a brand name tyre is that little that there's no point putting cheap ones on. We put a set of Toyos on dad's because they were that cheap, there was no reason not to.

2 hours ago, Tailhappy said:

Tyres are 185/60R14 so any thoughts on a decent make and model are appreciated.

There are good and not so good tyres in even the better brands and their models of tyres. Personally I wouldn't go for tyres in the group shown as "Budget Tyres" on the following page at all and the ones in the group shown as "Economy Tyres" on the same page may be alright, or some of them, but I would avoid them too. I would look at the group shown as "Mid Range Tyres" and above. Take the reviews with a pinch of salt unless the review is for a car that's the same make, model, year and driven like your dad's will.

Example list of groups. - https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/

I would suggest fitting a set of four new tyres if possible.

As was put on my elderly neighbour's car that I used to drive round the block a number of times then 3 weeks later take it on a 15-mile journey and 3 weeks later drive round the block a number of times, and so on, just to keep things moving on the car including the tyres When my neighbour decided he wanted four new tyres I arranged and took the car for a set of four Kumho Ecowing tyres (forget the model number) and the car was better riding, braking and road noise after.

If you mean your dad's 2011 Vredesteins are with about 2.6mm tread then that's fine, as far as it goes, for tread depth, and no cracks is great but how hard is the 13+ year-old "rubber" that it might be (greatly) reduced performance for handling and braking. Your dad's car might very easily be provoked into being tailhappy no matter how little power it has and at low speeds. As the Vredesteins have lasted 13+ years without cracking that might well be another brand to consider.

Only larger, deeper cracks and holes on just the section of tyre shown in your photo. -

Ok thanks for the comments and links. I'll take a read and go from there.

The car does some motorway work and is used for holidays too so safety is important. It's a Mk1 Fabia 1400 16v.

I'll see what a set of 4 will cost him as well.

If you shop around you can sometimes get some good offers, particularly if stock has to be shifted for the latest models and fashions of tyres.

A lot of tyre fitting places might suggest you go on-line even on their own websites to order the tyres from them to be fitted by them but for lower price - such is the world now. Many tyre retailers happily offer mobile services, bricks and motor shops cost a lot to run and rely on customers to come to them which is often no one when it's quiet trading times and too many to cope with at busy trading times.

Careful not to be sold extras that aren't really needed or can do much. Like wheel alignment often but not always, a free check can be useful to review and consider later or if there is very uneven tyre wear on old tyres or damage and/or lots of wear on the suspension and steering, since the MoT.

Low usage of the car year round but then periods of more intense use (as happens sometimes with "classics") is often a recipe for more issues and incidences during those periods (breakdown, running repairs and recovery often with those "classics").

Good luck.

Has anyone bought part worn? I'm seeing some top brands with almost no wear (around 3 years old) for around 1/3 new cost.

Part worn is a bit of a minefield, so depends on the place you get them and their source.

Some could be almost brand new from insurance write offs etc. Some are from people who don't believe in puncture repairs and just buy new whatever. Then there are imports from countries with a higher minimum tread than the UK.

Used to buy them when skint but don't now.

I have used TIGAR tyres on various vehicles, mostly winter or all seasons, but had summers on a Volvo.

Tigar just one of the brands / factories Michelin own who also own ATS Euromaster. (&BlackCircles)

At the desk i often get a price for fitted lower than the Website / Online ordering shows,

or an offer of tyres they have in stock at the branch or for next day delivery.

Edited 31 March31 Mar by Ootohere

2 hours ago, Tailhappy said:

Has anyone bought part worn? I'm seeing some top brands with almost no wear (around 3 years old) for around 1/3 new cost.

Had no other choice for 15 years.

I always selected a matching set of 4 that were evenly worn, usually those that had been changed at 4mm tread depth, the cheapest and with more life and grip left in them than they had delivered the original purchaser.

2 hours ago, Stonekeeper said:

Then there are imports from countries with a higher minimum tread than the UK.

Name one other than for winter tyres in Scandanavian countries.

Again part worn is about more than tread depth, sidewalls can literally be given a good bashing by some drivers with potholes and kerbs, use, abuse and possibly neglect.

On a car that does higher milage and much more frequent tyre changes they may work out good value or even perhaps put on a car that gets little use and mileage but it's all a gamble, to a lesser extent bit like buying a used car, yes they are (should be) checked to meet a minimum standard and some may exceed the standard by more and lot more than others, possibly good cost savings, possibly not so good.

Not so long back we replaced two tyres I'd had fitted new after three years (23k-miles) because they were cracked radially all the way round on the inside face out of sight, plenty of tread depth on them.

7 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Name one other than for winter tyres in Scandanavian countries.

I have no idea other than to say , at the time I was using/buying them 1980s to 90s. The tyre place i used said he got them from Germany in container loads. Whether they were Winter tyres or not, I cannot remember. Or whether EU regulations dragged us up to 1.6 and them down i am also not sure.

The UK was 1mm before 1992

Edited 31 March31 Mar by Stonekeeper

@Stonekeeper IIRC, which is always hit 'n' miss, way, way back the Beemers abroad, possibly Germany, had it to change at 3 mm, possibly to feel more like the Porkies, remember when they used to de-badge the Beemer 1.6s and the telly program A-B was on (first I remember in widescreen, on 4:9, and the reps wanted an 'i' on the boot badge. I remember the 1 mm but not that it was so recent (to me) to change to "1.6 mm over . . .". A number of years back I had a ride in a 3-wheeler Grinnall Scorpion (1l Beemer bike engine) single wheel (wide for the time) at rear and, after the ride, I noticed how low the tread looked and mention this to the owner/driver to be informed for the vehicle 1 mm was allowed.