Hello everyone,

I noticed that the topic has been discussed a few times, but the posts were a bit older, so it's possible that someone has come up with new solutions, found better guides, etc. Therefore, I decided to start a new post.

I have a 2009 Skoda Fabia 1.2 12v HTP in station wagon version, in which I would like to replace the speakers in the front doors and A-pillars, and install speakers in the rear doors. Currently, it has a "Dance" radio, which, from what I've read, only allows you to connect front speakers. I ordered a "Swing" radio, which can also be connected to rear speakers. The speakers I want to install are:

Front doors: JBL Stage2 604C

Back doors: JBL Stage2 624

I'm no expert when it comes to electrics and mechanics, but I think I could handle something like that. Now, I have a few questions - if they're stupid, sorry:

1) Based on your experience, are the cables run to the back doors by default, or would I need to run them myself? If so, which way? Through the ceiling, floor, or pillars?

2) When replacing the speakers, would you also recommend soundproofing the doors? Is it not worth it with such speakers?

3) If so, what materials (relatively budget-friendly) would you use?

4) I also read that when installing soundproofing mats, there may be a problem with moisture. From your experience, is this true?

I would be very grateful for any help on this topic.

Have a nice day, everyone!

Hi,

The dance radio should have no issues with 8 speakers as it has 4x20w channels as most skoda radios do

1: from looking at the door wiring looms available for 2009 fabias, it appears that all of them contain the wiring for the bass and treble speaker, i would recommend checking however and if it does not contain the wiring, i would recommend replacing the door wiring harness with one containing the correct wires as running wires elsewhere to the door can lead to damage to the wiring or water ingress.

2: applying some soundproofing while the speaker is being replace will remove some of the unwanted vibrations from the door panel, as long as the sound deadening materials used are waterproof + not too thick to obstruct water passing through the inner side of the door it will not cause any issues. a Constrained Layer Damper (usually butyl based with aluminium backing) will reduce panel vibrations, whereas a closed cell foam will reduce noise (most closed cell foams used for sound deadening do not absorb/retain water). There are some products available that combine both together, so it may be advisable to use something like that to reduce overall cost + ease of install. OPEN-CELL foam on the other hand will absorb water and does not have the same sound insulation properties as closed cell (intended for higher frequency sounds, as opposed to low frequency road noise.

3: I would compare prices on different products, i think the easiest thing to look for would be a 3 layer sound deadener consisting of Closed-cell foam - Aluminum - Butyl (in that order) - ebay would probably be the best start for cheap prices

I would also note, that when installing new speakers, you may find they are quieter/less powerful than the originals, due to them being designed for higher power, it may be worth moving to an aftermarket head unit (with 4x50w channels) to take full advantage of those speakers

Edited 18 April, 20251 yr by User2908

Hi @User2908, thank you for your reply!

Well, if that's the case, it will definitely be easier. Is it a straightforward connection, or would it require something like soldering? I'm not sure if I'm skilled enough to do it myself, and I don't want to damage anything by being stupid.

Thank you for the information regarding sound damping as well - super helpful! Any particular brands you could recommend?

Regarding the new head unit, that seems crucial.... It's kinda pointless to buy speakers I won't be able to use, isn't it? Is there any particular head unit you would recommend? Probably on the budget side, all I need from it is an AUX cable to work.

Thank you for being so helpful!

1 hour ago, Glitch said:

Hi @User2908, thank you for your reply!

Well, if that's the case, it will definitely be easier. Is it a straightforward connection, or would it require something like soldering? I'm not sure if I'm skilled enough to do it myself, and I don't want to damage anything by being stupid.

Thank you for the information regarding sound damping as well - super helpful! Any particular brands you could recommend?

Regarding the new head unit, that seems crucial.... It's kinda pointless to buy speakers I won't be able to use, isn't it? Is there any particular head unit you would recommend? Probably on the budget side, all I need from it is an AUX cable to work.

Thank you for being so helpful!

Looking at those speakers, they have a separate crossover, so it may require some reconfiguring of the existing door wiring to be able to fit them, from factory they have inline crossovers on the speakers, so the factory wiring to the bass + treble speakers is combined

Have you also got adapters so the speakers sit correctly in the door?

Edited 18 April, 20251 yr by User2908

Hi there,

Sorry for the late reply. I've read that I might need adapters, so I've done some research and found something similar to the picture.

"Looking at those speakers, they have a separate crossover, so it may require some reconfiguring of the existing door wiring to be able to fit them from factory they have inline crossovers on the speakers, so the factory wiring to the bass + treble speakers is combined"

How would you approach it? Solder/crimp?

Is there any particular head unit you would recommend? Probably on the budget side.

Regarding door wiring looms, do you know where exactly the wires should be attached?

I wonder if replacing these speakers and sound-damping the car doors is overall complicated - is it something that a newbie like me can handle, or should I save money for pros to do it?

2 hours ago, Glitch said:

Hi there,

Sorry for the late reply. I've read that I might need adapters, so I've done some research and found something similar to the picture.

"Looking at those speakers, they have a separate crossover, so it may require some reconfiguring of the existing door wiring to be able to fit them from factory they have inline crossovers on the speakers, so the factory wiring to the bass + treble speakers is combined"

How would you approach it? Solder/crimp?

Is there any particular head unit you would recommend? Probably on the budget side.

Regarding door wiring looms, do you know where exactly the wires should be attached?

I wonder if replacing these speakers and sound-damping the car doors is overall complicated - is it something that a newbie like me can handle, or should I save money for pros to do it?

Those would work, although ideally you would want an adapter for the treble (tweeter) speaker also.

In regard to what i said before, it would still require cutting into the loom to fit the crossover box that comes with those speakers even if you have adapter plugs, depending on how they fit into the box would depend on whether you would have to crimp/solder or just screw the wires into the crossover box.

If you are looking for something simpler to install, personally i went with the 'Focal IS' kits as they come with inline crossovers like factory and do not require any adapters to fit, new rivets included also, they are also lower resistance than factory speakers so the OEM head unit should have no issues driving them

Hey, that's a great call! I just checked their website - did you get Focal Inside Comfort 6.0? May I ask for the price?

Have you updated your OEM head unit as well? How do you feel about them - worth it?

Just now, Glitch said:

Hey, that's a great call! I just checked their website - did you get Focal Inside Comfort 6.0? May I ask for the price?

Have you updated your OEM head unit as well? How do you feel about them - worth it?

I got them as seperate front + rear kits, if you look around for them id buy them from whenever its cheapest.

I did also get the focal mini amp however as i was looking for more power at the same time and i wanted to keep the head unit i currently have (Yeti MIB2)

(can say for sure it gets fookin loud lol + they definitely have more punch than the factory woofers)

Edited 21 April, 20251 yr by User2908

By any chance do you remember if they were IS VW 180 and IC VW 165?

For the MK2 fabia they would be 165 F+R (the ones with separate tweeter)

Edited 21 April, 20251 yr by User2908

From what I've seen on their website, they recommend front IS VW 180 which is 2-way separate kit and for the back is IC VW 165. I might be wrong tho.

Just now, Glitch said:

From what I've seen on their website, they recommend front IS VW 180 which is 2-way separate kit and for the back is IC VW 165. I might be wrong tho.

Skoda catalogue says fabia has 4x 165mm speakers

So I assume it will be this one, then? I really appreciate your patience haha

https://www.focal.com/products/is-vw-165

Have you done any sound damping in your car, or have you only installed new speakers? Also, what amp did you get?

Yes, i did the doors at the same time, i just went with the focal impulse amp as it will do 4x80w with those 2ohm speakers + runs inline with the head unit. if you are looking at aftermarket head units you shouldnt need one however as the majority have 4x50w outputs from factory

*forgot to mention, the impulse amp only has adapters for later skoda head units, so would not be plug and play on your model

So, in your opinion, would it be an upgrade if:

• I keep the original head unit

• Sounddamp the doors

• Install IS VW 165 (front) along with IC VW 165 (rear)
  
  Would the difference be noticeable and worth the money? Or, considering the total price of speakers (around 300 euros), is it not worth it without upgrading the head unit and/or amp?

Edited 21 April, 20251 yr by Glitch

27 minutes ago, Glitch said:

So, in your opinion, would it be an upgrade if:

• I keep the original head unit

• Sounddamp the doors

• Install IS VW 165 (front) along with IC VW 165 (rear)
  
  Would the difference be noticeable and worth the money? Or is it not worth it without upgrading the head unit and/or amp?

They should still give a better output than the factory speakers, due to them being a better construction + having lower impedance, sound deadening will improve response of the low tones + remove some unwanted noise (lower section of exterior door panel - will reduce the sound of rockchips massively).

This still leaves you the option to change the headunit out in the future (at worst you could probably find a used name brand single-din on ebay for 20 quid and buy an adapter at halfords)

That's awesome. Final question:

"3 layer sound deadener consisting of Closed-cell foam - Aluminium - Butyl (in that order) - eBay would probably be the best start for cheap prices" Have you bought and used patches or a whole roll and cut it yourself? Did you apply it all over the doors or only in specific spots? What brand of that sound deadener have you used?

Also, when it comes to sound deadening, I've read that it makes a difference of 4 db, which is apparently barely noticeable - as you've done doors, was the difference noticeable?

12 minutes ago, Glitch said:

That's awesome. Final question:

"3 layer sound deadener consisting of Closed-cell foam - Aluminium - Butyl (in that order) - eBay would probably be the best start for cheap prices" Have you bought and used patches or a whole roll and cut it yourself? Did you apply it all over the doors or only in specific spots? What brand of that sound deadener have you used?

Also, when it comes to sound deadening, I've read that it makes a difference of 4 db, which is apparently barely noticeable - as you've done doors, was the difference noticeable?

When i did mine, i did it seperately - used CLD (panel dampener) and layered closed cell foam ontop after, suggested getting one that contains both combined as that removes some of the hassle of cutting + layering multiple times

When putting it on, you want to look for any large flat areas, if you tap an area and it creates resonance, that gives you an idea of where you want to place it (normally on the back of the outer door skin, around the window regulator, back of the door card if it has any flat areas + underneath the speaker - where it mounts) - no noise from rocks on the doors anymore and definitely quietened the cabin