I mostly use the car just to commute around 10-20 minutes twice a day and the light never comes on during this time.

This weekend however I have been on a longer drive and the light came on after slowing down to leave a dual carriageway that I had been on for 45 miles.

After this I changed the oil sensor at the top of the engine (https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-oil-pressure-switch-46644025s)

This time a longer A-road driving trip resulted in the same result with the oil light not coming on until I had eased off the gas to slow down for an exit. The light then remained off for the reminder of my journey down B and suburban roads.

What should my next steps be?

Look at getting an oil change, or get the oil pump looked at? Or is there something else I should do?

1.2 3-cylinder or 1.2 TSI?

How many miles has it done?

When was oil and oil filter last replaced?

As pete said - whats the service history and exact engine?

obvious question - you have checked the oil level as per the service guidelines for the engine? (some are cold check, some are warm check).

Id probably drop the sump and check the pick up pipe strainer too.

if its partially blocked the pump load while running higher revs on A roads and MWays might be pulling enough through the blockage to survive, but when the pump eases off it cant pull enough through the strainer.

Only 44 kW 1.2,s are Cold Check, 2.8 litre oil capacity.

all others are @ normal operating temp, so an indicated 90 *oC or so.

It was / is the Skoda Owners manual that had Warm, while VW / Audi / SEAT had Hot or Normal Operatingtemp.

90*oC is more than warm, do not dip fingers in oil at that temp.

Skoda UK said in 2012 that was lost in translation.

Edited 27 May, 20251 yr by Ootohere

It is the 3 cylinder 51KW version. 88,800 miles 62 plate.

I only recently bought the car, this was the first longer drive in it.

Looking in the service book, Has had oil change in January @ 87,000 miles

I would change the Oil & Filter just incase sh!te oil was used. Or not actually changed.

If it was VW502 00 so 5w 40 FS oil it is not long life so Servicing is Fixed regime,

9,400 miles / 372 days.

Check the Oil filler cap is a tight fit.

Does the service book mention the oil filter also being changed then? If not, do it now. Even if it was changed then, do it now.

There are a couple of o-rings on the oil filter assembly that it may be worth changing, not just the routine one that comes with a new filter cartridge. Items 16 and 17 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Sump drop is not that easy on these, front exhaust section would have to come off first, then it's a sealant gasket too, so a bit of a palaver to refit.

Just change the oil and the oil filter,but myself i would bite the bullet and get 2 filters a 4 litre jack of flushing oil then user at least the recommened longlife oil or better, short trips daily causes more issues and honestly the filter and oil needs changing more often than loner runs done every day

Personally i would give long life oil, so VW504 00 / 507 00, 5w 30 FS III a miss and stick to VW 502 00, 5w 40 FS and fixed oil and filter changes. Not as a money saver, just because.

As it is they were QG2 engine code up to 2011.

An update:

After changing the oil and filter the pressure light the red light of doom and gloom hadn't come on for a while. Now it seems to be back intermittently.

I have ordered a pressure test gauge to see what's really happening, am I right in thinking the process is:

1. Remove pressure sensor

2. Connect gauge

3. Run engine at idle for 20 mins to warm up

4. Run engine at 2k revs and measure pressure

5. Run engine at 3k revs and measure pressure

Is this correct? What values am I looking for when measuring?

Is there an oil level sensor on that engine? Not the oil pressure sensor that you changed. It could be sending false readings or perhaps bad wiring

Alasdair

Low oil level should trigger a yellow light on the dash so maybe, but I assume this is working. Could it be overfilled now though?

In order of fixes my next goto will be to drop the sump and clean the pickup.

Then it's the pump that gets looked at, but I don't see many reports of failure there?

(This is the 1.2 HTP engine)

I always thought the light flashed and beeped when it was low oil. My sons MK1 does when you change oil until engine has been run for a minute. Maybe the MK2 is different. His is the 1.2 HTP engine as well. If your removing sump I think its silicone based gasket. I did an old toyota and it had a silcone sump seal. Took a while to remove but found the small snap off craft knives were good at slicing inbetween sump and engine block. Toyota wanted a fortune for a tube of sealant. I did some research and used Loctite grey SI5660. Was reccomended on a toyota import forum as suitable for japanese imports sumps. Still fine and that was years ago. Think a tube was about £12-£15

Alasdair

Dropped the sump off today, some bits of plastic in the oil pickup for the pump which I switched out for a new one.

I guess I need to change the timing chain and guides next.

2 minutes ago, PixelMonkey said:

guess I need to change the timing chain and guides next.

Why?

Is the oil pressure OK now?

Not driven yet, the gasket sealant recommended 12 hours before driving so will add the oil and test drive tomorrow.

The plastic in the sump though suggest damage to the timing guides to me unless I'm missing something?

Edited 23 August, 202523 Aug by PixelMonkey

Damage or just wear?

Pics of the bits or old strainer?

They can go a lot further than yours has on original chain/tensioner/guides.