I have read the comments about Stop/Start not working and that the battery could be at fault.

I have had my Kamiq for 5 years now and although the Stop/Start did work a few times it doesn't work now.

I put this down to not using the car regularly and then generally only short distances.

I have had the engine management light come on now and again and also I have seen something like " power too high"

I have watched a few YouTube videos of replacing batteries (not on the Kamiq) and adding the serial number, the battery capacity, the type of battery etc.

Now I am wondering if it's safe to disconnect the battery to check and see what type this one is.

Can I disconnect the battery to check this without have to reset anything?

If fitting a new battery does this have to be programmed in? How things have changed to when i was young and did all this with no problem!

Hello, welcome to the forum.

I'd recommend getting the battery tested first - and check the alternator charging rate.

You shouldn't need to disconnect the battery to find its details, they should be on a label on the top (likely near the positive terminal) - but disconnection will not cause any issues provided you always ensure that the negative terminal is disconnected first - this is to prevent any risk of short-circuiting live positive terminal to vehicle chassis.

The battery type (AGM or EFB) and capacity is the only important data - the existing serial number can simply be input by changing the last digit if the battery does need to be replaced.

Thanks for that.

I did pop in to a local battery supplier, he said he's changed lots of batteries on Skodas and never had to program one yet!

I forgot to ask about testing the battery, I know that will be standard practice but not sure how they would check the alternator.

Again, many years ago I would check the standing battery voltage, start the car, monitor the voltage, something like 13.8 volts springs to mind. Then start putting headlamps on and anything that would load up the alernator, if the voltage remained stable that was a good indication.

Would it be a similar test or something more sophisticated?

50 minutes ago, EMike said:

I did pop in to a local battery supplier, he said he's changed lots of batteries on Skodas and never had to program one yet!

i would find a battery supplier that actually knows what they’re doing and get your battery tested and if a new battery is required , fitted and coded as is required.

Edited 6 August, 20256 Aug by Kenny R

I know what your saying and yet this company has been going for over 50 years.

Maybe they have not changed a battery on a Kamiq!

It certainly sounds like the battery might be on the way out.

1) find a reputable garage that knows how to code in your new battery.

2) have them do a check on the battery

3) have then do a check on the alternator to make sure it's charging.

4) depending on 2 and 3 either get a new alternator or new battery or both.

5) have the new battery coded in to the car.

The symptoms you describe sound more like battery than alternator. In any even what happens is the cars ECU makes a decision about using stop start. If it thinks the battery is a bit low it will deactivate stop start. A lot of short trips, engine still cold, use of the AC will all be factors the ECU uses to decide to activate or deactivate stop start.

If you've read the above you'll understand the ECU needs to know how the battery is working, what it's state of charge is etc. This is why you need to code in a new battery. The ECU will go through a learning process to understand the exact characteristics of the new battery. This, in turn, will ensure the greatest possible battery life and minimise problems that could be associated with under or over charging the battery.

Hello, I replaced my Kamiq style 1000cc battery two years ago. I took into account the restrictive measurements and power requirements and found two brands, EXIDE and YUASA, with a slightly higher amperage 49 Ah > 55 Ah(perhaps avoiding coding) but with almost double the power, 540 A, with EFB type. At the moment, I am very satisfied with the change I made myself in 5 minutes. I am attaching the measurements and data for the original battery from spare parts.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Edited 7 August, 20257 Aug by GiscoYeti

14 hours ago, EMike said:

I know what your saying and yet this company has been going for over 50 years.

Maybe they have not changed a battery on a Kamiq!

The battery adaptation (coding) issue is not unique to Kamiq - it applies to ANY vehicle fitted with smart alternator charging control, which will include virtually all vehicles fitted with stop/start function.

This is true and very important for Start&Stop, but it is very simple with CarScanner and inexpensive.

Edited 7 August, 20257 Aug by GiscoYeti

38 minutes ago, GiscoYeti said:

This is true and very important for Start&Stop, but it is very simple with CarScanner and inexpensive.

@GiscoYeti , I was a bit concerned about you being able to "double the power" with your new battery, the "power" is the CCA or Cold Cranking Amperes and there are maybe 3 ways to rate/describe this, ie DIN which yields a very low value, then EN or SAE which method yields a value that is almost twice the DIN value/rating.

59 minutes ago, GiscoYeti said:

This is true and very important for Start&Stop, but it is very simple with CarScanner and inexpensive.

1 hour ago, GiscoYeti said:

This is true and very important for Start&Stop, but it is very simple with CarScanner and inexpensive.

Manufacturer of battery is not important and serial number can simply be existing number with last digit changed. Agree with items 1,3 & 4.

Gosh, there is a simple way to do this which is to fit the right battery and then code it to the car. Coding is little more than telling the ECU "new battery fitted" it's not magic! A lot of DIY OBD devices allow battery coding and I'm pretty sure all pro ODB devices do.

Yes there are all sorts of things you can do as an alternative including just bunging in a new, roughly the right capacity, battery. None of those solutions are optimal despite the fact that most of them will work without apparent problems.

I'm out of this thread now - all the best.

Just an FYI - on my 2020 Octavia I was (for some reason) unable to code it in with VCDS. Apparently the car has a locked gateway. I had to go down to my VAG indie that has ODIS.

As has been said, the days of simply swapping the battery over ended over ten years ago. This 'specialist' might not be very specialist. Either an EFB or AGM will do.

Just get the correct battery for the car and get it coded in.

@OccyVRS so it sounds like protectionism has returned, very annoying! I think that there is something similar happening around "replacing brake parts" - if so, that needs knocking on the head as well.

An aside maybe, or closely connected with this sort of situation, I have had the misfortune to need to buy in a highish value part for my car, when I phoned the Audi dealership parts department, they advised me that it would need ordering in from the factory - really just what I expected for a slow moving highish value part, the parts guy checked for current availability and the parts were both available to order and for me to collect in 2 days time, I asked him for the actual part number really just to make sure that the exactly correct parts were being ordered "we are not allowed to hand out that information" - so I offered the last 3 numbers and 2 letters of the part number and he grudgingly agreed that was what I was going to pay for and collect in 2 days time, then I got the spiel(sp) about there being a list of other parts that I must buy or the parts warranty would be null and void - I passed on that as I'm a DIYer and I don't think that VW Group would be interested in addressing any issues I had with these parts after I had left the building, anyway I had already bought all associated hardware. I wandered in 2 days later, "sorry one part failed to make the transport so it will be here tomorrow". Not wanting to waste more time than necessary, the next day I phoned before leaving home "oh that part is on back order - I told you that when you ordered the parts as it was me that handled that order" - nothing like that was said previously but such is life sometimes dealing with people, so I asked when it might appear or when they will get visibility of that from the factory - "phone tomorrow and we'll know more", phoned the next day "phone in another 2 days time". Soon, maybe tomorrow, I'll give them a phone call, if that part is not currently available then that is that, but surely there must be a clear time line as it when it will be back in stock, this is not rocket science.

Things are starting to get a lot sloppier concerning VW Group, maybe dealing with old internal combustion engines cars is boring them.

Wow! nothing is ever simple these days, however, I understand what you have all said and I need to make a decision.

I can't help but think, if the battery can be removed (so I can see the type etc.) and then replaced with no issues, surely, I can replace the battery with a new one, but same spec.

From what I've seen, the serial number isn't critical, is it? because you just add a different digit.

I don't like being beaten, but have been wrong many times in my life, I think I'm going to remove the multi connection cover on top of the battery. Negative terminal first as advised, make a note of the details and see if all is well when I reconnect.

5 hours ago, OccyVRS said:

Just an FYI - on my 2020 Octavia I was (for some reason) unable to code it in with VCDS. Apparently the car has a locked gateway. I had to go down to my VAG indie that has ODIS.

As has been said, the days of simply swapping the battery over ended over ten years ago. This 'specialist' might not be very specialist. Either an EFB or AGM will do.

Just get the correct battery for the car and get it coded in.

I had to replace the wifes battery in her 2017 Seat the other day , I encountered the same problem then found out to set the adaptation(even for the new battery) I had to put in a security code 20103 (it will be the same code for all VAG cars I was told) it worked on mine using VCDS HEX-V2.

Hope this helps anyone else scratching their head with this problem.

5 hours ago, OccyVRS said:

Just an FYI - on my 2020 Octavia I was (for some reason) unable to code it in with VCDS. Apparently the car has a locked gateway. I had to go down to my VAG indie that has ODIS.

As has been said, the days of simply swapping the battery over ended over ten years ago. This 'specialist' might not be very specialist. Either an EFB or AGM will do.

Just get the correct battery for the car and get it coded in.

18 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

@OccyVRS so it sounds like protectionism has returned, very annoying! I think that there is something similar happening around "replacing brake parts" - if so, that needs knocking on the head as well.

An aside maybe, or closely connected with this sort of situation, I have had the misfortune to need to buy in a highish value part for my car, when I phoned the Audi dealership parts department, they advised me that it would need ordering in from the factory - really just what I expected for a slow moving highish value part, the parts guy checked for current availability and the parts were both available to order and for me to collect in 2 days time, I asked him for the actual part number really just to make sure that the exactly correct parts were being ordered "we are not allowed to hand out that information" - so I offered the last 3 numbers and 2 letters of the part number and he grudgingly agreed that was what I was going to pay for and collect in 2 days time, then I got the spiel(sp) about there being a list of other parts that I must buy or the parts warranty would be null and void - I passed on that as I'm a DIYer and I don't think that VW Group would be interested in addressing any issues I had with these parts after I had left the building, anyway I had already bought all associated hardware. I wandered in 2 days later, "sorry one part failed to make the transport so it will be here tomorrow". Not wanting to waste more time than necessary, the next day I phoned before leaving home "oh that part is on back order - I told you that when you ordered the parts as it was me that handled that order" - nothing like that was said previously but such is life sometimes dealing with people, so I asked when it might appear or when they will get visibility of that from the factory - "phone tomorrow and we'll know more", phoned the next day "phone in another 2 days time". Soon, maybe tomorrow, I'll give them a phone call, if that part is not currently available then that is that, but surely there must be a clear time line as it when it will be back in stock, this is not rocket science.

Things are starting to get a lot sloppier concerning VW Group, maybe dealing with old internal combustion engines cars is boring them.

I've not dealt with Audi parts, but skoda-parts.com is absolutely fantastic. That said, Skoda (UK) did want to charge me £920 inc VAT for a drivers door card, which I thought was a bit of a joke considering it's just crap plastic.

It's not just VAG, it's everyone. The emphasis is on how they can make money after you've bought the car - often second hand. if you're buying a car from a private seller, VWAG aren't making anything... so, how can they earn from you? Simple - by making it that you have to visit a dealer when you want a battery replaced, or go to an indie that has paid a small fortune for (sometimes limited) access to tooling. When you take away ICE cars, suddenly servicing provides a lot less income - roll on the air con recharging and the other million things you don't need.

@EMike perhaps it's just me, but I'm confused. The battery information, on the top, should be accessible without removing anything?

Regardless, again, a new battery has to be coded in. It's not a big job, but it must be done. The new battery, even if from the same batch, will need coding in. Otherwise, the car won't know you've got a new battery, won't know the charge condition, the battery health, or anything else associated with it. Every battery will have slightly different characteristics, despite being the same - the car needs to know. The alternator and ECU on cars are smart, and don't always charge the battery, all the time.

@johnny cabbage head I did try this, but I still had no luck. My car is SFD1 (I think) so not entirely sure why. I ended up just getting my Indie to do it, as I had a big trip coming up and didn't want any issues (years ago, on an A3, we had Halfords code in a battery, which led to random issues like the horn, wipers and locking intermittently dying) - noted for next time, though, thank you.

@EMike perhaps it's just me, but I'm confused. The battery information, on the top, should be accessible without removing anything?

Perhaps I need to take a photo, but the battery postive goes to a plastic box that sits on top of the battery and has plastic clamps either side to secure it. From here I think there are 4 fairly large cables, connected to this, that go off into the car electrics.

2 hours ago, EMike said:

@EMike perhaps it's just me, but I'm confused. The battery information, on the top, should be accessible without removing anything?

Perhaps I need to take a photo, but the battery postive goes to a plastic box that sits on top of the battery and has plastic clamps either side to secure it. From here I think there are 4 fairly large cables, connected to this, that go off into the car electrics.

I'm guessing your problem is that "stuff" tends to cover up most of the top of batteries in some newer cars - whereas, a few years ago, it was less crowded around there and you could read all the info that you wanted to.

On 07/08/2025 at 02:47, EMike said:

Thanks for that.

I did pop in to a local battery supplier, he said he's changed lots of batteries on Skodas and never had to program one yet!

I forgot to ask about testing the battery, I know that will be standard practice but not sure how they would check the alternator.

Again, many years ago I would check the standing battery voltage, start the car, monitor the voltage, something like 13.8 volts springs to mind. Then start putting headlamps on and anything that would load up the alernator, if the voltage remained stable that was a good indication.

Would it be a similar test or something more sophisticated?

Your battery guy is a **** head then as the idea of recoding it is to tell the ECU it is a new battery and it will adjust charging rate to suit. Its probably harder for it to charge an old one so you want to tell it that its new so it doesnt keep slamming a high rate into it and Fing it sooner

Edited 8 August, 20258 Aug by Exkiwi

8 hours ago, EMike said:

@EMike perhaps it's just me, but I'm confused. The battery information, on the top, should be accessible without removing anything?

Perhaps I need to take a photo, but the battery postive goes to a plastic box that sits on top of the battery and has plastic clamps either side to secure it. From here I think there are 4 fairly large cables, connected to this, that go off into the car electrics.

Perhaps you need to get someone who knows what they are doing before you fry the car . Look at the serial number on the battery and GOOGLE IT to see what it is then take it to another reputable battery shop and get it LOAD TESTED to see if its stuffed.

@EMike "I can't help but think," but you are 100% wrong. You've been told countless times in this thread why you are wrong and it's been carefully explained but if you know better then crack on!

14 hours ago, EMike said:

@EMike perhaps it's just me, but I'm confused. The battery information, on the top, should be accessible without removing anything?

Perhaps I need to take a photo, but the battery postive goes to a plastic box that sits on top of the battery and has plastic clamps either side to secure it. From here I think there are 4 fairly large cables, connected to this, that go off into the car electrics.

The Battery is 49Ah e 320A see on site https://ifinterface.com/page/page3.php?langid=1

Auguri "Ad majora"

14 hours ago, EMike said:

@EMike perhaps it's just me, but I'm confused. The battery information, on the top, should be accessible without removing anything?

Perhaps I need to take a photo, but the battery postive goes to a plastic box that sits on top of the battery and has plastic clamps either side to secure it. From here I think there are 4 fairly large cables, connected to this, that go off into the car electrics.

Thanks again for all your replies.

I won't be touching anthing at the moment, and will probably be taking it to somewhere I feel confident they know what they are doing.

Still can't believe a comany which I previously described, doesn't know what they are doing though!.

Here's a photo of my battery, I have removed the positive cover to try and show you the connection from terminal to this connection box on top

@EMike IF your engine is a 1.0 petrol then on a previous thread the battery might have the VW battery code 8E0 915 105 B (320A DIN is about 530A EN CCA approx. on the conversion chart I have). A list of 8E0 915 105 B equivalent batteries according to Tayna. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/f/vw-oem/vw-8e0-915-105-b/

Have you tried recharging the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for the appropriate charger maintainer as this could recover the battery to useful longer life. As you don't use the car much you have the time to fully recharge the battery to get the most into to it for it to retain. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

The start/stop not working is the first sign that you should recharge the battery, either by sufficient driving or better still using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for the appropriate charger maintainer.

You have not mentioned that you have any other warning lights or messages from letting the battery get too low in charge so the battery could be recoverable for further useful life despite VW and others wanting your money for expressive perhaps premature battery replacement and possible 'coding'.

Yes of course it's safe to disconnected the battery, in fact VWŠkoda recommend you do so if the car isn't used for x-weeks, again consult the car's 'Owner's Manual' for procedure and advice as to what might need resetting on reconnection. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Whether you keep the current battery or change it to a new one in future, for less hassle and longer battery life you want to, when required, do occasional preventative charging of the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and the instructions for the appropriate charger maintainer.

I think people had to do this up until say the 1970s for the batteries of the time (6v on some cars) - such is progress. 😆

VWŠkoda didn't bother at the factory putting in the battery serial number on my wife's 2015 Fabia and other Briskoda members have shown the same, just the ten ones (1111111111), the battery brand code doesn't matter either that would have been for VW statistics and most likely to also blame and cost the battery manufacturers for VW's battery charging or monitoring balls-ups, my wife's car got the "battery" Recall.

OBDEleven 'coding' done for the change of battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia, note the three character code for battery manufacturer was ignored, I'm told Bosch battery is Varta anyway, and VW being VW AGM is known as fleece by them.

There are some very strongly held beliefs, both ways, on this VW battery stuff with very little proof other than what members have reported from their own experiences but 2020 brought another level of VW PITA awkwardness even beyond what they previously made their car owners/users suffer and this has been ramped up again more recently I've seen.

Try charging the battery to at least buy you more time while you decide what's right or you want to believe - and you might find you've not killed the battery as much as you thought you had, reports of its (near) death exaggerated.

Edited 8 August, 20258 Aug by nta16
typos