Hello everyone, I am looking for a fuel pump for my Skoda Favorit 136L (1991) and also a distributor as well. Can anyone Tell me where can I get these? (I am not looking for Chinese made parts as they are very poor in quality. The distributor can also be a reconditioned one (I don't mind).

Cheers!

Until someone else is able to help you with more specific details some advice from me for what you might have to do as the owner of an old car where some parts might not be available, or seem unavailable or difficult to locate.

For things like distributor caps I found for general car parts suppliers you need to get a cross-reference of (correct) part numbers as the exact same parts could be offered for different car makes and models b y the same generally parts suppliers at different prices and availabilities. There were different part manufacturers (possibly making the same part under different brand names they own) offering the same part but under different car makes and models.

As an example, for a Bosch distributor cap I had a cross reference list of part numbers and applications that I could confirm would be correct as long as my arm, including for Citroen, Hyundai, Peugeot, Saab, Talbot, various models and there were many more possible but I was unable to confirm in the time I wanted to put to the research for the part. Also for rotor arm Audi, Porsche, VW, BMW, Borgward, Ford, Mercedes, Volvo - though I only needed to confirm a couple of car makes on this. The car models went back to at least the start of the 1960s.

A mechanical fuel pump is a different matter but might be easily replaced with an electric fuel pump so a lot less specific top car make and model.

If a part is not easily available you do have to do some research, with the internet any part number can be investigated but do bear in mind all data bases have errors and omissions particularly those from general parts providers but also from car and car parts manufacturers.

If you search there are details of some specific parts providers, details on this forum and site, but of course you need to confirm the details are not out of date.

Parts can also come from less expected sources, like military or transport enthusiast suppliers.

Good luck.

I decided to buy "Ultra Spark Classic" distributor as I have read somewhere that they are the best bet of all of the new distributors, Will test it today and post up the results. Regarding the fuel pump, I have decided to just keep the old one in and add another fuel filter before the pump. Cheers!

Edited 15 October, 202515 Oct by Joja2k

Allrighty, I have to say that I am surprised that the new "Ultra Spark Classic" distributor so far actually works very good, along with the ignition coil. But there has been a major development. I noticed that the coolant expansion tank was getting more and more inflated as the car was warming up. My guess is that the head is deformed and thus it is not sealing properly with the new head gasket. So I was thinking of sending the head off to be machined and then redoing the head gasket. Cheers!

I finally spared time to work on the car. I concluded that the timing chain was off, the cam gear was off by 180 degrees. I followed the haynes manual to the word. I have set the timing chain correctly (I have turned the cam independently of the crankshaft, the engine was set to tdc before being disassembled) . I have returned everything back as it was, and immediately as I tried to start the car there was a large spark on the battery positive terminal, I have rechecked all of the wiring, and everything related to ignition and electricity, there were no blown fuses, so I tried to start the engine once again, and now the engine will not start at all. It is spitting fuel out of the carburettor like crazy. Keep in mind that the head has been machined, valves have been replaced as well. I have been doing research and most of the answers I found are that the issue either is with the timing chain itself, distributor, carb's float chamber or the valves. Any recommendations as to what I should do or what did I do wrong?

Any Felicia owners able to help out with JoJa2K's Favorit ?

Shout out in no particular order - @D.FYLAKTOS @Thefeliciahacker @R_U_AFA @Papez

If I am correct, the distributor drives the oil pump? How do I adjust the actual distributor so that I don't mess up the oil pump?

Sorry @nta16 but i can not help @Joja2k because i have ECU in my Felicia and no knoledge about the distributor. 🥺

I think you were TDC on the exhaust stroke.

You need to retime the vehicle with cylinder one TDC on the compression stroke.

dis_timing.pdf

Edited 30 November, 202530 Nov by Thefeliciahacker

^^^ this is likely the answer - to confirm No 1 cylinder is on Compression stroke, turn engine over until No 1 piston is rising towards TDC with both inlet and exhaust valves closed.

Hello everyone, I have great news. Me and my friend took the valve cover off, turned the crankshaft and got the engine to TDC compression stroke (I have confirmed this as I took out the spark plug and placed my finger there) Now, we looked at the distributor, and it was pointing to spark plug no. 4. So we took the distributor out and lined it up so that it would fire on spark plug no. 1. After that we tried to start the car and voila, it started but some 5 seconds later the rpm dropped from 1500 to some 700 - 800, and that's when i turned off the car and called it a day. I suspect that the distributor timing is not 100% correct and that the carburettor has to be adjusted as well. Your thoughts? Cheers!

PS. So I would say that the camshaft is set correctly after all, both the crankshaft and the camshaft. I think that the engine is timed correctly!

@Thefeliciahacker @Warrior193 @D.FYLAKTOS @nta16

Edited 2 December, 20252 Dec by Joja2k

You are okay, if it runs good, its fine, one tooth off on the cam would be noticeable fyi

Sorry but you are either overlooking or ignoring the basics that have been suggested to you. As has been put before you need to recheck the basics as we all make mistakes.

Sometimes even on checking we miss our mistakes which is why it is good to get someone else to have a look to find what we have missed.

Again, this is the basics - check and adjust (or replace) as required in this order - tappets, points, plugs, timing and mixture in that order - carb is last in order. If you adjust or replace any item in the list then you need to check and adjust (or replace) all items that follow that item in the list.

This assumes the engine and electrics are all in a reasonable condition for the engine to run reasonably, if you have very old petrol or the air filter, or box, or exhaust is clogged or lots of other faults then you won't be fully success in getting the engine running well.

And bear in mind what has been put before - the engine is one of the less important system, component or part of the car, braking, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) and safety electrics (good reflective number plates) are more important.

You will get things sorted if you remembered to first cover and check and recheck all the basics of any work before moving on to the more difficult or sexy bits of the work and you will not fully successfully sort things without dealing with the basics.

Good luck.

I also forgot to mention, that once the engine was on TDC compression stroke we looked at the valves and they were closed completely (No. 1 cylinder valves as they should be) Cheers!

From the static settings, it just remains to adjust ignition timing and dwell angle to correct dynamic setting using a timing strobe.

I have found out an interesting issue today, the timing is jumping. I set the timing to be 5 degrees as it says in the haynes manual, but here and there it will jump to about 10 or even 15 degrees. The distributor is brand new, this happens on every single distributor that I have, I have 4 of them (the original one that came with the car included) This is happening on every single one of the distributor, could this cause the engine ti misbehave? And if so, what could be the issue? I have looked it up on google and forums and people suggest that it is either the distributor bushings or the timing chain. The timing chain is brand new and covered under 2000 Km, of the 4 distributors I have 3 of them are brand new but the one that I installed the latest (Ultra Spark Classic) is so far the "best" one that I have.

When you say 'jumping' are you talking about sudden changes in timing without any change in engine speed - or do you mean the timing advances when engine speed is increased?

The second case is normal - the ignition timing should advance using the centrifugal flyweights mounted on the distributor shaft when revs increase, there is also control by engine vacuum.

Hi, when I say jumping I mean on sudden changes with engine fluctuations. The engine is not running smoothly so far as the carburettor has not been adjusted yet. But if I do remember correctly before all of this with a different distributor when the engine was running smoothly the timing was still jumping without any changes in engine speed.

You need to check that the distributor swash plate is completely free to move, all springs inside dissy are in place and in good condition, no excess movement in dissy shaft and drive pinion and check for vacuum leaks.

Can't get the engine to idle smoothly. And the distributor timing is jumping all around. I first got to the distributor, then I set it as closely as I could, then I went over to the carburettor. I took a screwdriver and firstly turned the mixture screw all the way in, then turned it back out by 1,5 turns. After that I started the engine (The engine was previously warmed up). Then i started turning the mixture screw ccw until the rpms stopped increasing, after that i turned it cw barely not even by half a turn. After that I went over to the idle speed screw and turned it ccw until the engine got to 850 rpm. The video link is for the distributor that I filmed. Any thoughts?

PS. while idling, the timing jumps anywhere from 3 degrees all the way to about 10 degrees, but as I press the gas pedal, it starts jumping all around.

Edited 4 December, 20254 Dec by Joja2k

2 hours ago, Joja2k said:

Can't get the engine to idle smoothly. And the distributor timing is jumping all around. I first got to the distributor, then I set it as closely as I could, then I went over to the carburettor. I took a screwdriver and firstly turned the mixture screw all the way in, then turned it back out by 1,5 turns. After that I started the engine (The engine was previously warmed up). Then i started turning the mixture screw ccw until the rpms stopped increasing, after that i turned it cw barely not even by half a turn. After that I went over to the idle speed screw and turned it ccw until the engine got to 850 rpm. The video link is for the distributor that I filmed. Any thoughts?

PS. while idling, the timing jumps anywhere from 3 degrees all the way to about 10 degrees, but as I press the gas pedal, it starts jumping all around.

I notice that the vacuum line does not appear to be connected to the distributor.

It's been a very long time indeed since I've played around with mechanical timing, but I do recall that the indications were never rock steady - it always helps if the timing marks are wiped clean, then wiped over with white chalk.

That is correct, the vacuum line was disconnected and plugged with a bolt, as I have filmed this while I was adjusting the distributor's timing.

10 hours ago, Joja2k said:

That is correct, the vacuum line was disconnected and plugged with a bolt, as I have filmed this while I was adjusting the distributor's timing.

And you wonder why the timing is erratic!?

The timing is still erratic after re-connecting the vacuum advance to the distributor, it's still acting the same. @Paws4Thot

PS. The distributor's timing was set by the book. (Haynes)

Edited 5 December, 20255 Dec by Joja2k

When you inspect the dis, do you see the arm having switched location? Are you sure you are not asking for high dwell, causing it not to be able to sustain the spark?