Just purchasing a Karoq Sportline. my old Tiguan had drainage problems with the so called Spider Traps causing blockages in the drain pipes for the roof. Anyone know does the Skoda sunroof have the same problems?

Apparently it does. Mines been ok so far (2 years old) but it's something that's at the back of mind!

I, like many owners, use a thin nylon cable to push down the drain tubes to keep them clean. Front drains are visible in each corner and easily accessed, rears are not accessible as they are covered by the fixed glass panel. They are accessible from underneath, one side is more accessible than the other. I don’t think there is any sort of flap over the outlet now. I park my car so it slopes to the rear and then pour water carefully into the gutter around the open roof, it’s possible to feel the water coming out the rear drains under the rear bumper. I also discovered that the pan roof is an optional service item, if you ask for it. There is a special fluid (liquid gold by the price!) in the small bottle, that keeps the neoprene seal flexible and thus it seals better. I clean the drains, clean the seals and wiped with the fluid every 6 months.

It's easy enough to check the front drain plugs near the bulkhead but I couldn't find the rear ones despite lying on the floor and poking around for about half an hour!

The rear drains come down the C pillar, and exit the body behind the bumper at the rear corners of the car.. This is the righthand side (looking at the back of the car) I was able to use my nylon cable to push up into the drain pipework. I'm not sure if there should be a plastic panel in front of this area - but my car does'nt have one. If it should have one it might have been left off when the towbar was fitted.

The left hand drain outlet is not visible, but its behind the plastic trim panel with the orange sticker. see next photo.

This not very helpful photo was best I good do - the plastic trim panel can be partially released by removing the screw in the metal clip shown to the right of the thumb, its then possible to move the panel just enough to get a hand up into the cavity behind the panel and feel for the drain outlet - if you have previously poured water into the pan roof gutters it may feel wet or be released as a result of touching the outlet. If you have an assistant who can pour water into the gutter you should get a wet hand if its draining OK.

I'm relying on keeping the 2 front and the right rear drains clear and hoping that the left one won't cause a problem. Along withe 'moisturising' the neoprene seal with the VW liquid to stop it drying out and shrinking. That will reduce the amount of water that can get past the seal. Keeping water out reduces the amount of dirt that can enter and be washed down the drains.

Thank you Thamestrader, that's really useful info. Thanks for taking the time to make such a comprehensive reply, much appreciated

Thanks for all the constructive comments 👍Picking the car up today, I'll put it on my check list.

Is the 'nylon cable' the type of plastic used in a strimmer?

tom

@Sanqhar yes, there are loads on eBay etc, some have a small nylon brush on the end that’s pushed down the drain. I think some will say there’s a risk the brush could come off and get stuck in the drain.

@thamestrader As a recent Sportline owner I am interested in this subject. As a matter of interest, where/how does debris get in though? (presumably only when the roof is open) - in view of what has been said, I certainly wont want to chance parking under/near trees with the roof open but fortunately this is not an issue with my normal parking arrangements. At least you got some interest in your post - no one replied to my recent post about occasional temperamental closing of the roof but at least I did get to inspect the viewable part of the channels when trying to resolve my issue! Still didnt notice any drainage routes but will bear in mind what you have said next time I look

Edited 30 October, 202530 Oct by mistac

@mistac I'm not entirely sure how dirt gets in - my working assumption is that the any moisture that gets through the seals probably contains microscopic particles of dust. The moisture either runs away or evaporates leaving a sediment in the gutters around the roof - over time this builds up and gets washed down the drain tubes. I guess dust also blow in when the roof is open, ironically or paradoxically (whichever it is) I only open my roof to clean the gutters and drains! I think using the special Krytox fluid that VW sell to lubricate the seal to prevent leaks is significant. It was recommended to EOS owners to stop leaks in the convertible roof seals. My Sportline was about 18 months old when I first applied the liquid (its 26 months old now) and the neoprene seals were quite dirty i had to wipe them many times with a cleaning cloth until it was clean. My car sits outside all the time so any dust that settles on the pan roof would be picked up by rain and could wash through the neoprene seal.

Is there a cheaper equivalent than the VW lubricant? On previous cars I have used Silicon oil spray from Lidl.

You don't have to buy VW branded, but you do need to buy the genuine product they use (without the VW sticker).

As for silicon, it gives a nice shine, but it really isn't the same stuff!

It's ultimately up to you, and if the tiny tiny saving, offsets the cost of repair/replacement and damage to the interior of the car, not to mention potential corrosion points 🤷

How do you apply this liquid gold? A cloth would absorb too much. A finger perhaps?

I can see that a nylon cord would be good for the front drains from the top, but the rear ones seem inaccessible from the top or am I missing something? I watched a good youtube on this, but they did not mention the rears.

See my earlier reply with photos of the access underneath to the rear drain outlets. After a thorough clean of the nenoprene seals I used a few drops on a small piece of cloth to wipe over the seals. The cleaning of the seals takes a few goes to lift all the fine dust.

1 hour ago, thamestrader said:

See my earlier reply with photos of the access underneath to the rear drain outlets. After a thorough clean of the nenoprene seals I used a few drops on a small piece of cloth to wipe over the seals. The cleaning of the seals takes a few goes to lift all the fine dust.

Thank you, I should have read the thread more carefully.

Any silicone based lubricant will protect the panoramic roof seals, at considerable less cost than the VW stuff.

Mines been fine for four years so far

Thats good to know.

NO, the cheap silicone sprays etc are NOT the same compound.

They basically give a nice shiny finish, but that is it. The VW , or OEM equivalent, is very different and acts in a different way. The price isn't a 'hike', just for the sake of it

You are basically comparing cheap 3 in 1 oil to premium synthetic motor oil.

Both lubricate, but try running your engine on 3 in 1, it will run for a bit, but with particularly unpleasant circumstances and significantly reduced life expectancy...

28 minutes ago, Frizzbee30 said:

NO, the cheap silicone sprays etc are NOT the same compound.

They basically give a nice shiny finish, but that is it. The VW , or OEM equivalent, is very different and acts in a different way. The price isn't a 'hike', just for the sake of it

You are basically comparing cheap 3 in 1 oil to premium synthetic motor oil.

Both lubricate, but try running your engine on 3 in 1, it will run for a bit, but with particularly unpleasant circumstances and significantly reduced life expectancy...

Are you a chemical or materials engineer ?

On what do you base your claim ?

If you Google Krytox fluid and how to apply it, which I did only 3 days ago as I was going moisturise my pan roof seals. After cleaning which is critical and probably takes the most time, as always preparation is the key to success, the Krytox is massaged into the surface of the nenoprene seals. I only needed to use a very small amount roughly one 3 mm drop every 25 mm was plenty. With regard to cleaning I used a small sponge with plain water no detergent, the opening section seals are easy to clean but the rear fixe do section seals the dirt is trapped between the seal and metal frame. I used an old toothbrush to lightly brush between seal and frame followed by a flat plastic trim tool with tissue wrapped round to push between seal and frame so working carefully along to dry the seal and pick up the dirt. The seal gap across the rear of the fixed section tends to retain the damp and promote the growth of algae or moss, tooth brush again for that bit. Bits be done my seals twice now and estimate the bottle of liquid will last at least 5 years doing them twice a year. The seals definitely swell up when did Krytox is applied.