For future viewers, as we look the engine bay and the coolant sensor pins:

the first two (in front) are for Dash and the other two (in the back) are for ECU.

For sure can we make the Ω test in our bench at house huh?

Edited 6 January6 Jan by D.FYLAKTOS

yep we can, but its not a guarantee someone will have not installed the sensor rotated, the ref should be with the plug key

To me it, sounds like damp under the HT rubbers, and the spark arching to the engine block.

1 hour ago, R_U_AFA said:

To me it, sounds like damp under the HT rubbers

Possible

On 04/01/2026 at 15:55, Thefeliciahacker said:

Post a video if you can, but it is 99% the ECT

So, here's a couple of videos today, -4.5 degrees, couldn't get it to start.

On a previous posts (and thread?) we got caught out with videos as we thought it wasn't the starter motor but it turned out to be the starter motor - I am not saying this is so in your case just that things like this can be difficult to diagnosis remotely.

For me, others will know better, given the -4.5c and the length of cranking possibly the possibility of it starting might diminish. Are you able to try bump starting it, down a slope, ramps or hill if possible is best (probably not in reverse given the snow on the ground) - or have a strong young son doing the pushing, it is his car, the pushing will warm him up in the cold.

The interior shown looks very good.

For other Felicia owners - in your experience, is the son correct (possibly for the wrong reason) that it is best to have the clutch pedal fully depressed for starting particularly when the weather is this cold?

4 minutes ago, nta16 said:

On a previous posts (and thread?) we got caught out with videos as we thought it wasn't the starter motor but it turned out to be the starter motor - I am not saying this is so in your case just that things like this can be difficult to diagnosis remotely.

For me, others will know better, given the -4.5c and the length of cranking possibly the possibility of it starting might diminish. Are you able to try bump starting it, down a slope, ramps or hill if possible is best (probably not in reverse given the snow on the ground) - or have a strong young son doing the pushing, it is his car, the pushing will warm him up in the cold.

The interior shown looks very good.

Thanks, there is indeed a hill to the left of the car, but if it wouldn't bump start, there's no way we would be able to push it back up again! When I finally got it going the other day, it took ages, with many 'almost' moments, so I'd be reluctant to try that TBH.

Well there's Thefeliciahacker's suggestion earlier in the thread of what it might be (very confident 99%).

To cover basics - have you already checked the battery terminals, terminal clamps, battery cables and end connections to be clean (secure and protected), same for all other possible connections and wires.

Have you checked battery for state of charge and health - you could put a multimeter on the battery posts as you crank the engine and see what the drop reading is - you could put full size and good quality jump leads from battery terminal post connection to earth the engine - or use a set to jump leads from another car/battery to jump the Felicia.

The jump leads need to be big enough and in good condition and the second battery in good condition (state of charge and health) or a second reliable car. I've seen people fail to start a car because they use skinny (or once extended) jump leads and/or a second battery not up to the job.

I wouldn't mind a pound for each time I've been told "the battery is good" or skinny scruffy jump leads are used (might overheat and the clip comes off) or a jump starter pack simply doesn't start the car or like a spare wheel has been allowed to go too low or flat so as much use as a fart in a cullender.

Might (probably?) not be any of this of course but if a car doesn't start electric is what I start with from my experience(s).

There I got it off me chest, I feel better if no one else does (-12.5c in Norfolk yesterday).

100% ECT, the only way to start it is to floor it so you get into deflood, and when it catches slowly let off

Edited 7 January7 Jan by Thefeliciahacker

1 hour ago, TonyW1967 said:

Thanks, there is indeed a hill to the left of the car, but if it wouldn't bump start, there's no way we would be able to push it back up again! When I finally got it going the other day, it took ages, with many 'almost' moments, so I'd be reluctant to try that TBH.

It will not start with bump starting except if you can get it to 1500rpm through rotation, all this time you are cranking and bumping you are KILLING your cat

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

For other Felicia owners - in your experience, is the son correct (possibly for the wrong reason) that it is best to have the clutch pedal fully depressed for starting particularly when the weather is this cold?

It does not matter in the Felicia as it has no clutch switch and parasitic drag from the box is minimal as you can hear, the car is cranking strongly; it's trying to catch but being in extremely rich and in protected rpm mode, it cannot and will not catch

Edited 7 January7 Jan by Thefeliciahacker

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

To cover basics - have you already checked the battery terminals, terminal clamps, battery cables and end connections to be clean (secure and protected), same for all other possible connections and wires.

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Have you checked battery for state of charge and health - you could put a multimeter on the battery posts as you crank the engine and see what the drop reading is - you could put full size and good quality jump leads from battery terminal post connection to earth the engine - or use a set to jump leads from another car/battery to jump the Felicia.

Yes it is absolutely healthy, the cadence of rotation in such cold heather is beyond excellent and it means battery is VERY strong and in a very high SoC

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

I wouldn't mind a pound for each time I've been told "the battery is good" or skinny scruffy jump leads are used (might overheat and the clip comes off) or a jump starter pack simply doesn't start the car or like a spare wheel has been allowed to go too low or flat so as much use as a fart in a cullender.

The battery here is excellent. If you want an example of a weak battery start on a Felly, here you go.

The difference is beyond audible...

Edited 7 January7 Jan by Thefeliciahacker

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

For other Felicia owners - in your experience, is the son correct (possibly for the wrong reason) that it is best to have the clutch pedal fully depressed for starting particularly when the weather is this cold?

I do this for 20+ years, the gear stick in N and the pedal pressed, reduces the initial ''load'' for the engine to start in cold.

@TonyW1967 When you turn the key to the 1st as i saw twice that you don't wait for the pump to make it's work and you crank immediately, why? This is wrong especially in a cold engine.

See in the first seconds? Waiting for the pump to stop,

then i crank and after few seconds the engine is in idle.

47 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

@TonyW1967 When you turn the key to the 1st as i saw twice that you don't wait for the pump to make it's work and you crank immediately, why? This is wrong especially in a cold engine.

I haven't had an 'old' car for many years, so I'm a bit clueless regarding how I should start such a car 🙂. So, if I understand you correctly, what you're saying is that I should wait for 'the pump to work'? Can you expand on that please?

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

100% ECT, the only way to start it is to floor it so you get into deflood, and when it catches slowly let off

Interesting! I'll need to wait for D.FYLAKTOS's reply about switching on and waiting for the p[ump to work, and then see how and when I should floor it! 🙃

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Well there's Thefeliciahacker's suggestion earlier in the thread of what it might be (very confident 99%).

To cover basics - have you already checked the battery terminals, terminal clamps, battery cables and end connections to be clean (secure and protected), same for all other possible connections and wires.

Have you checked battery for state of charge and health - you could put a multimeter on the battery posts as you crank the engine and see what the drop reading is - you could put full size and good quality jump leads from battery terminal post connection to earth the engine - or use a set to jump leads from another car/battery to jump the Felicia.

The jump leads need to be big enough and in good condition and the second battery in good condition (state of charge and health) or a second reliable car. I've seen people fail to start a car because they use skinny (or once extended) jump leads and/or a second battery not up to the job.

I wouldn't mind a pound for each time I've been told "the battery is good" or skinny scruffy jump leads are used (might overheat and the clip comes off) or a jump starter pack simply doesn't start the car or like a spare wheel has been allowed to go too low or flat so as much use as a fart in a cullender.

Might (probably?) not be any of this of course but if a car doesn't start electric is what I start with from my experience(s).

There I got it off me chest, I feel better if no one else does (-12.5c in Norfolk yesterday).

We're going to check all that in the garage - the main task today was to empty the garage of gym equipment, so we could get the car into the garage. The first part went well, the second part not so well - I waited an hour or so after the first videos, then tried again, wouldn't start, so waited again, then tried again - eventually it caught, but it took an age of coaxing, you can hear it running very lumpy, sounding like a tractor (it was like that for at least 15 minutes), and despite trying to carefully increase the revs, my foot was having no impact on the accelerator (you can see that in one of the videos, and even my son was trying to floor it in one video, to no avail). However, after an age, I finally managed to get some revs into it. You can also see heavy smoke during the lumpy period, but oddly (from my POV) none when the pedal was to the metal. Anyway, I managed to get it into the garage, where it's warm, so we'll see how it starts tomorrow. I've asked my son to order an ECT, but his experienced garage mechanic friend (the one who gave him the car) is coming around tomorrow with his diagnostic kit, so that may also confirm Thefeliciahacker's diagnosis. Just an FYI though, the car was running sweetly when temperatures were normal. I'll add another video to the next post, as the combined size exceeded the 10MB allowance.

Oh well, I can't upload the last video, even though it's only 4MB in size, it seems I can only upload 10MB total!

Boll*cks ! Computer lost my answer to Thefeliciahacker, so I'll let it go. ETA: now this post wont load up - blo*dy computers!

I'll leave D.FYLAKTOS to give his answer to your question but give more general advice for you and your son that applies to any car but particular an old car.

When you get in the car switch the ignition on and wait a while before trying to start the engine so that you can check all the dash lights that should come on and go out do that. After a bit of time using the car you soon learn what lights should light up and go out and which should or shouldn't light up or remain alight. Whilst waiting you could put your seat belt on and check the handbrake is fully applied.

When you pull over to park the car up don't switch the engine off immediately, leave it running for about 30 seconds to check everything is as it should be with the car as you did when before and after starting the engine.

After you start the engine don't just immediately pull away instead listen. look, feel and smell for anything different to usual or shouldn't be. Turn on or adjust anything required before then pulling away (check mirrors and over shoulder.

Another habit to get into is not to turn anything electrical on (other than any required safety items) before the engine is running and you've satisfied yourself things are as usual with the car. Conversely, turn off all electric item (unless required for safety) before you turn the engine off, something very difficult for some to do (they leave the radio/stereo switch on, wipers, etc.) let alone talking on a phone!

20 minutes ago, TonyW1967 said:

I haven't had an 'old' car for many years, so I'm a bit clueless regarding how I should start such a car 🙂. So, if I understand you correctly, what you're saying is that I should wait for 'the pump to work'? Can you expand on that please?

Its the fuel pump priming it will run for 3sec to build pressure you will hear the relay click off, its a slight buzz under the rear seats.

5 minutes ago, TonyW1967 said:

We're going to check all that in the garage - the main task today was to empty the garage of gym equipment, so we could get the car into the garage. The first part went well, the second part not so well - I waited an hour or so after the first videos, then tried again, wouldn't start, so waited again, then tried again - eventually it caught, but it took an age of coaxing, you can hear it running very lumpy, sounding like a tractor (it was like that for at least 15 minutes), and despite trying to carefully increase the revs, my foot was having no impact on the accelerator (you can see that in one of the videos, and even my son was trying to floor it in one video, to no avail). However, after an age, I finally managed to get some revs into it. You can also see heavy smoke during the lumpy period, but oddly (from my POV) none when the pedal was to the metal. Anyway, I managed to get it into the garage, where it's warm, so we'll see how it starts tomorrow. I've asked my son to order an ECT, but his experienced garage mechanic friend (the one who gave him the car) is coming around tomorrow with his diagnostic kit, so that may also confirm Thefeliciahacker's diagnosis. Just an FYI though, the car was running sweetly when temperatures were normal. I'll add another video to the next post, as the combined size exceeded the 10MB allowance.

I know exactly what is happening it is running so rich that is causing a flameout condition meaning it wets the sparkplugs, and it sounds like this, I bet the temp gauge doesn't budge If you want take a 2k resistor and plug it into the socket of the ect fooling the ECU like its around 20C and it will start instantly and you can use a 10k pot in rheostat config (so using an outer and a middle leg) to fool the gauge and check (but be carefull to not drop the resistance of the gauge to zero as you gonna fry it, add a series resistor of 330Ω if you are afraid

Edited 7 January7 Jan by Thefeliciahacker

2 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Its the fuel pump priming it will run for 3sec to build pressure you will hear the relay click off, its a slight buzz under the rear seats.

I know exactly what is happening it is running so rich that is causing a flameout condition meaning it wets the sparkplugs, and it sounds like this, I bet the temp gauge doesn't budge If you want take 2 2k resistors and plug them into the socket of the ect fooling the ECU like its around 20C and it will start instantly

So that's further confirmation it's the ECT sensor?

Just now, TonyW1967 said:

So that's further confirmation it's the ECT sensor?

If the injectors arent stuck open then yes

I hope you have a couple of resistors (or pots) laying around

Edited 7 January7 Jan by Thefeliciahacker

5 minutes ago, TonyW1967 said:

So that's further confirmation it's the ECT sensor?

357 919 501 B

This for 1.3 and 68HP model, don't buy a cheap one.

There is also the possibility of having one dead coil from the wasted spark system but that is easy enough to check.

Since it doesnt clear at high revs, this has happened to me once with a working ect, and it was due a failing coilpack, just unplug it get 4 plugs ground them and have someone check for spark in pais 1-4 3-2

Edited 7 January7 Jan by Thefeliciahacker