Smart think is to just put it in top apply brake and take foot off the clutch so stall it. The engine can easily over rev in this situation, so killing it as quickly as possible is the key thing.

Chris

Well, it sounds like it was running without the aid of ignition being on - would it still stall. Silly me, I guess your method would work too. It's one thing of minor concern that I don't tend to worry about at all, is that in removing my EGR, I've removed the flap mechanism that stalls the engine when the ignition is turned off. Actually, I'm not sure how my engine actually stops now.

If my car ever did this, I would grab a rag from the boot and smother the air intake pipe to stall it. That may at least save the engine in the long run, and limit the damage to just the turbo or similar.

probably not a good idea Jase , the amount of suction a diesel engine has at 4k+ revs would suck the rag straight through the engine and probably suck your arm in as well :eek:

probably not a good idea Jase , the amount of suction a diesel engine has at 4k+ revs would suck the rag straight through the engine and probably suck your arm in as well :eek:

I would use a huge pillow then. Not that I have one of those in the back of my car. I think about 6 of my rags (ex barmats, so quite tough) in one tight ball would be sufficient to clog it and not worry about blow through. The air filter would have to be bypassed by the incoming rags as well. bye bye green filter.

Well, it sounds like it was running without the aid of ignition being on - would it still stall. Silly me, I guess your method would work too. It's one thing of minor concern that I don't tend to worry about at all, is that in removing my EGR, I've removed the flap mechanism that stalls the engine when the ignition is turned off. Actually, I'm not sure how my engine actually stops now.

A mate had a pug turbodiesel go pop this way a few years ago. The turbo oil seal went and started driving the car forward hard in 2nd. He braked but the car was overcoming the brakes, so clutched down to engage top and the engine just overrevved and popped intantly. Took out most of the valves all of the pistons. New engine time, but as it was an old stoinker anyway he just scrapped it.

Chris

a piece of wood , 1" thick and 6" square over the MAF pipe might do it

Nope...

Basically diesel is refined oil..... and oil (that lubricates) is well.... oil.. if your turbo blew its seals on the inlet side (which sounds about right) the oil gets sucked into engine and it will burn uncontrollablly... usually goes past the redline (nothing to regulate the RPM) and the pistons and valves have a nice little atlercation if your lucky..... if your not the engine will usually throw a rod quite quickly

The 1.9tdis have a flap on the inlet to cut the air supply when the ignition is pulled... but it itself is vacume operated and i doubt it would work against a engine revving its knackers off (think of the airflow.... immense!)

id also LOVE to watch someone try and block the airflow into the engine with it screaming at 5k+rpm

the only way to stop it would be to stall it... high gear and drop the clutch

Presumably if it is an auto, you have no options at all?

Anyway, at full revs would it not just slip the clutch even if in gear with brakes on?

I hear from a reliable source that of lot of these VNT turbo's are failing.

Vnt?

How VNT

Heard from the dealer today - engine has gone pop caused by cream crackered turbo charger. Skoda repairing car under warranty (54,000 miles covered) and also providing hire car. New engine on order - possibly up to 4 weeks before getting car back.

'Tis the season of goodwill and all that!!

Heard from the dealer today - engine has gone pop caused by cream crackered turbo charger. Skoda repairing car under warranty (54,000 miles covered) and also providing hire car. New engine on order - possibly up to 4 weeks before getting car back.

'Tis the season of goodwill and all that!!

Thats a decent result tbh!

The older BMW diesels had a tendancy to do this and once started would just rev uncontrollably past the redline until they ran out of oil and engine imploded! Once this starts you have very little chance of stopping it.

Best advice stand well back to avoid the smoke and put your fingers in your ears when it goes bang:eek:

It probably looks something like this -

Nice photo!!

Regarding the previous post about the BMW's - thats more or less what happened. I have never seen so much smoke without fire!!

Heard from the dealer today - engine has gone pop caused by cream crackered turbo charger. Skoda repairing car under warranty (54,000 miles covered) and also providing hire car. New engine on order - possibly up to 4 weeks before getting car back.

'Tis the season of goodwill and all that!!

That's not too bad then. Can't really expect them to do much more

I hear from a reliable source that of lot of these VNT turbo's are failing.

But surely they were tried and tested from the 1.9 range? or do they use different ones? :confused:

I don't really know Colin, however I do know that 'we' know somone who changes them quite frequently.

The VNT really doesnt like high EGTs, so if you remap the car and dont bear that in mind, the turbo really wont last long compared to what it should

Well ive got 80k miles to prove they can last... with occasional high enough EGT to send sparks out the exhaust

Got a Seat Leon 1.9TDI provided by Skoda as loan car. Very similar drive to Octy, just feels a little tighter at handling. Interior plastics poor though and all round visiblity not as good as Octy's.

We had two similar experiences with "dieselling" company cars both on Renault Lagunas,. In both cases the engines blew up becasue they had been over filled with engine oil. Apparently oil pressure builds and it then starts to by-pass the valves into the combustion chamber and bingo you have a flat out engine running on oil which cannot be turned off.

Renault claimed that one engine had revved to about 9-10,000 rpm before destroying the turbo etc..

According to an AA man I spoke to, most diesel engine problems he goes out to relate to the engines being overfilled with oil. Apparently the oil light comes on, and whatever is available at the first garage they stop at, in it goes (normally the full bottle)

I'm not having a pop at company car drivers as I'm one myself doing about 40k per year, but my collegues often regale me with stories of running out of oil, "how far can you drive with the oil light on?" is an often asked question. Frightening isn't it?

F9

For the record mine was serviced at 50k and had just been to the dealers and had the flywheel/clutch/release bearing replaced due to unusual noise.

Noise was still there after the repair but dealer didn't know root cause - who thinks turbo?? - engine failed at 54k.

Been serviced at fixed intervals every 10k and only had oil topped up twice between services, each time requiring less than 1litre.

Heard from the dealer today - engine has gone pop caused by cream crackered turbo charger. Skoda repairing car under warranty (54,000 miles covered) and also providing hire car. New engine on order - possibly up to 4 weeks before getting car back.

'Tis the season of goodwill and all that!!

Why?

Even taking holidays into account, if your dealer is pretty sharp it should be no more than one week, two absolute tops.

.... Been serviced at fixed intervals every 10k and only had oil topped up twice between services, each time requiring less than 1litre.

Do you know what oil had been used during the services/top ups? The reason I ask is that I know of an Octy1 1.9Tdi (110) where the 'exhaust' side bearings failed on the turbo, again resulting in huge clouds of white smoke (burnt oil in the cat!) but at least the engine didn't overrev. The mitigating circumstance was that 'standard' 20/40 oil had been used (rather than 10/30) and I suspect filled over the max. It seems possible the turbo oil seals just cannot cope with 'high' oil pressure, although you'd think there was a relief valve somewhere. Could it be that 'standard' servicing uses thicker (less expensive) oil rather than 'variable' servicing which should use the thinner (expensive!) stuff.