Done that too, all were replaced when the FMIC was fitted.

Are we talking leaks now ????????? Struth !!!!

Well the 17705 error is a pressure change. Only things that can cause that are leaks or a faulty sensor.

Code 17705 and 17704 has appeared as error codes after the management light came on the car runs ok and the said pipe appears to be ok anyone with any ideas ?

Code 17705 and 17704 has appeared as error codes after the management light came on the car runs ok and the said pipe appears to be ok anyone with any ideas ?

You cant tell if the pipe is OK or not because it only "fails" under load.

May be worth removing it and looking to see if it is the revised version on your car. The old one has a single O ring type seal, the new one has a double lip seal.

hi gaff,seen your still busy on here.did you have any luck solving codes 17705 and 17545,i have exact symptons you describe,not sure where to start.Dv,pipe throttle body but running like ****e below 2500 revs.cheers Perky.:confused:

hi gaff,seen your still busy on here.did you have any luck solving codes 17705 and 17545,i have exact symptons you describe,not sure where to start.Dv,pipe throttle body but running like ****e below 2500 revs.cheers Perky.:confused:

I don't have the car anymore, but it did show up again when a check was run on it after timing belt was done. AFAIK the throttle body was cleaned but not sure if thats a permanent fix, although the car is like a rocket

The Throttle body clean definitely improved the idling when I had it. All the parts mentioned in the bulletin were changed at one stage or another....but maybe it was something else.

My hissing noise when I put my foot down has eased off but I was wondering if there was an easy way to get to the intercooler on a Fabia vRS without a garage ramp?

I can remove the bumper quite easily, would this help?

It now seems to have a tremendous lag when accellerating after a gear change? I was told that the intercooler may have a hole in it, but I can't see how it would? unless a rouge stone has gone in there?

Ben

I've now got the 17545 code, after having the 17705 for about 6 months. Balls.

Changed DV (to a Forge) and Pressure Hose (part number 06A 145 790C). The 17705 went away for about 500miles after changing the hose, but now it's back with it's ugly brother 17545!

The car drives fine! Just went for a good old burn, and all the power is there.

Nobody has ever found a difinitive fix for these error codes. All the usual "clean MAF, clean TB, etc blablabla" doesnt work for everyone.

I'm finally getting round to buying a new N249 Electro Change Over Valve (part number 078 906 283A) this week. I know one guy has tried this, and it worked for him.

I love the car, so I'm not giving up.

There must be something we are all missing here. Arg

Yeah the N249 valve worked for me - not sure if any one else has tried this yet?

I'll be trying it in the next few days! Along with the intake air temp sender.....

I'll keep ya'll updated!

I'll be trying it in the next few days! Along with the intake air temp sender.....

I'll keep ya'll updated!

Did this work for you mate ? My brothers car has the same problem. So far I've done new Bosch 710N DV, modified turbo pipe, throttle body clean and new plugs. It went like a train once, now its flat again. I think some of the guys on SCN delete the N249 altogether don't they? I've yet to check the pipes under the intake and adapt the throttle body. After that I could use some more ideas?

John

Well after replacing the air temp sender on the intake manifold, the car ran alot smoother from cold. I left the N249 change for a week to see if I had fixed the fault code.

Alas the 17705 appeared again.

So last week I changed the N249. Pretty awkward and took some patience! While I was there I had a good look at all the hoses, and they were all fine too.

I've just gotta put some miles on the car now, and see if the code stays gone. I'm doing 500miles this weekend so should find out then.

Car feels fine though on the short trips ive done. I seem to always have full power anyway!

intercooler to throttle body hose next.

i have read the article on the SCN website about removing the N249. if your heavily tuning your car then fair enough, but id want to keep the extra security of having the valve there to save the engine just incase. i do sort of trust the ECU!! ish

As an update, I tried the car with the MAF disconnected tonight and it was running a hell of a lot better. So new MAF it is tomorrow

John

As an update, I tried the car with the MAF disconnected tonight and it was running a hell of a lot better. So new MAF it is tomorrow

John

I am said brother, and the new MAF again seemed to cure the problem momentarily, but today the car's flat as a pancake again. No boost noises and a total NA feel to the drive, as if the turbo isn't even there.

Can't understand how disconnecting the MAF would cure the symptoms (not sure about the codes), but a new MAF brings them back. What could that point to?

Anyone else still struggling?

Any ideas folks? :confused::(

Have you tried the N249 valve? Mine had momentary 'non-turbo' flat spots, and the N249 cured it along with other odd symptoms and the 17705 code

This must be one of the longest running threads on here, 1st posted 17-02-2004, 23:19

Have you tried the N249 valve? Mine had momentary 'non-turbo' flat spots, and the N249 cured it along with other odd symptoms and the 17705 code

Hi Bjorn

Please could you give me a clear explanation as to where the N249Valve is located.

Is it the throttle body valve ?

If poss do you or anyone else have a photo of the N249 Valve or can explain from a photo.

And how much are they ? and where from.

I don't much do i !

Many thanks

N249 part no 078 906 283A I think its about 45 quid from your dealer. it is located under a metal panel that is right by the dipstick and bolts to the inlet manifold.

I started taking my brothers car to bits today and was delighted to find this! The pipe form the inlet manifold to crankcase breather< i know it's been covered on here before hence I started the full strip down and inspect. Quick tape up and test drive so far so good! I'll get a new one ordered up and see how it goes

sigh... im still having this problem... :( had throttle body checked n cleaned. replaced maf...

i dunno i give in... when i drive and it goes to limp mode now all i do is turn ignition off and jump start it.

give in!

what have you tried mate?

there's a massive list!

-N75

-DV

-N275

-MAF

-MAP

-Intake hose

-Breather hoses

-Vacuum hoses

-Pressure hoses

-TB clean/reset

-Remap issue

-etc....

who know's what it is! I'm just slowly working throught he list and hoping for the best!

it's an automotive mystery!

wonder if the other VAG 1.8T engined cars have the same issues?

had the same problem just change the pipe part no 06a 103 221 af which i believe is a breather hose between the throttle body and some other pipe which had a major split in it has improved the idle and turbo lag has gone there was also some noises comming from the dv at idle which sounded like the fan belt was slipping but under load dissapered that noise has also gone it amazed me how much the pipe was blocked when takin the new one off so maby this could have caused an issue?

My OH's 1.8 vRS has just brought up these codes for the second time since we bought it a couple of months ago.

It also had the rather embarrasing cold start problems of a leaky secondary air pump, so I thought I'd have a look at it all today.

Since we got it the performance has been ok but not as quick as i'd have hoped, and there was quite a loud (and cool sounding if i'm honest) turbo whistle when on boost.

Anyway, today I had a look at the secondary pump and found the hose that connects from it to the airbox was only pushed on and not locked into place.

After fighting to get the pump off, I did the drill out rivets and nut and bolt the thing closed, and re installed it putting the pipe on properly.

Now it seems to run better but the turbo whistle has gone :( :lol:

Can't take it for a propper spin as the damn dipstick tube snapped in two places as I was putting it back together and have to wait till Monday to get a new one. grrr.

Will see if the error codes come back again, but am wondering if the loose pipe could cause them ?

This has been an annoying problem for a couple of months now and every time I get in the car it's a lottery which mood it'll be in. Will it be in a push-me-back-in-my-seat-bring-a-smile-to-my-face mood? Or will it be in a safe-but-dull-family-trundle mood? I haven't tried any of changes on the list yet because i was waiting for a defintive answer but i guess it's a case of doing them one-by-one and see what happens. I really want to get a remap done but with this problem is holding me back.

There has to be a better way :(

Why are Skoda themselves so quiet about this? Someone in the technical/engineering dept. must have an idea?

Anyway, that's my two penneth worth. Good luck to everyone sorting it out, and please keep posting results so we can nail this problem :thumbup:

This is a really interesting thread, i had my car remapped about 2 weeks ago, im not sure if i had a similar problem to this befor it went in or not. I get a loss of boost, normally from cold, first thing in the morning. I had it remapped at Jabba Sport and its running 226bhp, so when to boost goes i really knowtice it. Not sure if i would have knowticed as much befor it was remapped. With the 17705 code, do you get the engine light come on? I get low boost with no code or engine light? Could this be this pipe i have been reading about that is between the turbo and the intercooler? Could the extra boost be putting this pipe under more pressure? I.e now leaking due to remap, but was kind of ok befor it was done??

Edit: Just had my air bag code cleared on a vag 1551, i do have the 17705 code! This is the first time it has shown up. :(

Edited 6 July, 200817 yr by Sambo281081