It does however I think the later Bluefin now resets that.

Even with the flash counter present doing a remap and then setting it back, it is still very obvious to anyone who is looking for it to see if the car has been played with.

If you're talking about only 21 and then talking about wanting it to be not noticeable for insurance reasons, I'd strongly suggest that you think again.

Even with the flash counter present doing a remap and then setting it back, it is still very obvious to anyone who is looking for it to see if the car has been played with.

If you revert to your ECU's original map, and the flash counter is at zero programming attempts then how is it obvious or even detectable at all?

surely it's gunna look a bit odd with the flash counter at zero with updated software?

If you revert to your ECU's original map, and the flash counter is at zero programming attempts then how is it obvious or even detectable at all?

surely its going to look a bit odd with the counter at zero but the car has updated software?

surely its going to look a bit odd with the counter at zero but the car has updated software?

The first time you plug the handset into the OBDII port it downloads the original factory map to the handset and stores it. You can load your 100% stock standard VW supplied software back into your ECU whenever you want, after it does this it also sets the flash counter back to zero. So, revert to your ECU's factory map before servicing and it will be totally undetectable as it's back to how it was before you ever used the unit.

The only caveat to this is that some people (including me) have noticed that comms errors are logged by some of the control modules in the car after reflashing. It is necessary to clear them with a device such as Vagcom in order not to create any suspicion with the dealer. It only seems to affect certain cars. Superchips are aware of the problem, and I believe they are currently working on a fix.

I think you missed the point mrx. In th UK, USA and probably most other countries the TFSi (and the TDi come to that) ECU has been subject to one or two dealer flash upgrades. A genuine flash should increase the counter by an increment of 1 thus leaving an audit trail, if you have had this done and your flash counter displays anything other than 0 then this would show by resetting it back to 0 with a Bluefin.

If you revert to your ECU's original map, and the flash counter is at zero programming attempts then how is it obvious or even detectable at all?

Well first point as stated, with the counter at Zero it looks a bit odd. A better way would be for the device to read the value the first time it is plugged in and then use that in the future. Even better it could have a counter in it and ask if it's been dealer flashed when you use it and the counter has gone up. Many more clever ways around that than just zeroing.

Secondly if you look at the chip itself rather than just what is on it there are ways of finding out how many programming cycles have been done on it. There are also ways of finding out which order the bytes are in on the file system if there is one.

Add to that the even if there is a reset counter it is only a couple of lines of code to add a Write Once Log to a PROM chip, such that any writes to the flash are logged. double check this with the computer that says what has been done on your car and so if they look and x != y then the car has been played with.

That is without getting too complicated, but there are plenty of steps past that which will allow people to find out.

Having been hit by an uninsured driver, I have a very low opinion of them and if I got even a small prang due to one I'd sue them for as much as they had to repair the damage + any other costs and get the police involved.

Why should I have to pay for other people to drive cars they can not afford to insure?:thumbdwn:

Well first point as stated, with the counter at Zero it looks a bit odd. A better way would be for the device to read the value the first time it is plugged in and then use that in the future. Even better it could have a counter in it and ask if it's been dealer flashed when you use it and the counter has gone up. Many more clever ways around that than just zeroing.

Secondly if you look at the chip itself rather than just what is on it there are ways of finding out how many programming cycles have been done on it. There are also ways of finding out which order the bytes are in on the file system if there is one.

Add to that the even if there is a reset counter it is only a couple of lines of code to add a Write Once Log to a PROM chip, such that any writes to the flash are logged. double check this with the computer that says what has been done on your car and so if they look and x != y then the car has been played with.

That is without getting too complicated, but there are plenty of steps past that which will allow people to find out.

Having been hit by an uninsured driver, I have a very low opinion of them and if I got even a small prang due to one I'd sue them for as much as they had to repair the damage + any other costs and get the police involved.

Why should I have to pay for other people to drive cars they can not afford to insure?:thumbdwn:

Rather than the insurance issue I was referring to Stu-7's post above, about the dealer being able to detect anything has changed and therefore refuse to perform warranty work.

I agree that the counter should be kept at whatever it was. This is what was originally promised, but it turns out it goes back to zero instead. I believe the latest development (when the new firmware comes out) is to be able to set it to whatever you want. However, as an interim measure I think zero looks better than say 15.

As an electronic tech, having done much assembly language and eprom programming in my time, I don't doubt that the manufacturer could find out if they really wanted to, but do you really think your dealer has the skills or equipment to do this, or indeed would bother? Time is money.

Rather than the insurance issue I was referring to Stu-7's post above, about the dealer being able to detect anything has changed and therefore refuse to perform warranty work.

I agree that the counter should be kept at whatever it was. This is what was originally promised, but it turns out it goes back to zero instead. I believe the latest development (when the new firmware comes out) is to be able to set it to whatever you want. However, as an interim measure I think zero looks better than say 15.

As an electronic tech, having done much assembly language and eprom programming in my time, I don't doubt that the manufacturer could find out if they really wanted to, but do you really think your dealer has the skills or equipment to do this, or indeed would bother? Time is money.

Dealer probably not unless they were told to by the manufacturer to make a point, however they can easily read the Zero and since nothing will leave the factory at zero that's a big glaring sign.

Insurance company on a possible million pound pay out for somebodies death, well I'd say they would pay a company £1k to do it.

What field did/do you work in/who do you work for if you don't mind me asking? Feel free to PM if you prefer

Dealer probably not unless they were told to by the manufacturer to make a point, however they can easily read the Zero and since nothing will leave the factory at zero that's a big glaring sign.

Both my Skoda vRS & Golf GTI were delivered brand new to me with zero on the flash counter, which is why I don't see it as an issue. Neither of my cars has had to go back for a reflash at the dealer (so far). I can understand that if the dealer has reflashed the car and kept a record of it that they may be a bit suspicious if the flash counter is showing zero again, but in my particular case they should be on zero anyway.

I work for a telecommunications company at the satellite facility. Much of our equipment is from the ark, so the only way to program some things is by programming / changing proms.

Some of ours is like that too, but usually it's the more modern stuff that I get to develop

can any one give any comparison between the bluefin and the REVO software, i've been looking at both, same price but the revo doesn't have the switch box (+£150) but it doesn't put me off as i could get it at a later date

REVO claim a 55bhp increase where as bluefin give an extra 41bhp

now im assuming both of these are rolling road figures which in my opinion aren't worth the paper there printed on, hence is there any one who's had experience of both?

I will give my personal opinion on the SC BF a bit later on................

And here it is.................It's quite good, nothing startling until you get out of first gear but then again that menas you can put the power down without chewing tyres. Mid range quite aggressive and plenty of torque.

Unfortunately too much traffic around where i live to really see what it's about but a good run tomorrow should see.

First impressions are not too disappointing, but i think the Revo has the edge!

Should be able to get a good comparison verdict from you on this one then Ken.

just done my vrs octavia diesel bluefin today doddle took 1 hr back to back and very happy on 1st drive, do i need to alter the fuel i use. my insurance company did not increase my premium!

the flash counter adds -1 if you ask superchips to look at it, they can tell if its been changed at service if that makes sense

just done my vrs octavia diesel bluefin today doddle took 1 hr back to back and very happy on 1st drive, do i need to alter the fuel i use. my insurance company did not increase my premium!

May i ask who your insured with, and how old are you with how many years NCB?

evening gents, new to the site, thought it would be a great idea to sign up.

ive owned my 2.0tfsi vrs for a year since new and absolutely love it, however i found it frustratingly lacking in the midrange when chasing the slightly more powerful meganes and focus STs.

So after reading your articles on chipping i have just ordered a bluefin remap module for it, and hopefully it will make a very good car an awesome car. looking forward to returning from iraq ion a month and giving it a good belting down the autobahn.

however my query is that will the brakes be up for the extra 40 bhp, maybe perfomance disc and pad change with braided brake pipes, or revo do a brembo 4 pot brake kit for 1100 queen quids, im just not sure if that my play havoc with the ABS.

also has anyone trialled suspension, and exhaust upgardes who fancys passing on the knowledge.

your help would be helpful, cheers

There is plenty of knowledge already on the site.

Suspension: Koni FSD's & Eibach springs are popular

Exhaust: Milltek although there are others

Induction kit: EVOMS although others are available

Brakes: Standard will be fine for what you have planned although there are OEM big brake conversions available.

Try the search as plenty has been written already.

Brakes seem fine, the same brake setup is used on other TFSI engines with 240bhp standard so i wouldnt worry. Its also the same setup as the old 225bhp 1.8Ts had (apart from the Cupras).

As a new VRS owner - I will watch the Superchips debate with interest. Car seems capable of handling more power/torque as standard and this is a simple solution.

SuperTed - do you post elsewhere such as MD?

Edited 12 January, 200917 yr by solwood

BTTT

For those bluefin owners - what type of MPG are you seeing on Motorway runs?

My morning commute consists of c20 mins of B-roads followed by 40 mins of motorway. If I drive like Miss Daisy, I can just about get 32mpg.

On a long motorway run - for example I left heathrow airport the other day and drove back home via M4 and A34, I got 35mpg. *Just*

driving carefully with cruise control on at the stated speed limit and changing gear at 2500rpm, i can easily hit 36mpg. If you do alot of stop/starting in town driving it will drop to about 27mpg

Normal driving i get 25-29mpg round town 27-36mpg on motorways. however i do "make progress" when i drive.

although at 50mph on cruise my car easily goes above 40mpg

although at 50mph on cruise my car easily goes above 40mpg

:eek::eek::eek::eek:

I get around 43-45mpg sticking at around 70-80mph on motorway cruises.

Can also hit around 30mpg driving round town.

You sure you have taken the handbrake off:rolleyes::P:D

Carl:thumbup:

:eek::eek::eek::eek:

I get around 43-45mpg sticking at around 70-80mph on motorway cruises.

Can also hit around 30mpg driving round town.

You sure you have taken the handbrake off:rolleyes::P:D

Carl:thumbup:

I got 36mpg last night on purely motorway driving at 80ish over a 240 mile round trip.

completely unmolested car and I drove sensibly the whole way, might I have a problem as this seems a bit low compared to Mater.