Hi...

I`m currently planning my ice install, and wanted to share this.

Maybe other people could get some inspiration, and maybe give me some ideas too.

First of i will be installing a subwoofer which is a little special - you will see later.

I`m a little unsure of the enclosure type, but i will make a double floor to house the amplifiers, cable etc.

Hardware:

Headunit: JVC KD-BT1.

Plugs, fittings etc.:

4GA/20mm power cable:

Blaupunkt VA1400 - 1 x 400w RMS:

Tymphany LAT500 subwoofer: (the can is 0,33l)

As you can see, it is a little special.

I have heard 2 of these in a 40 l sealed enclosure each - they are just so precise.

I have read on a german forum that it would do good in a ~70l vented box, but not sure if i should go sealed or vented.

The floor will be build in modules so it should be easy to take out and get access to the spare wheel. Im planning on using 19mm MDF.

The plan is to lay the powercable on wednesday, and then see how it progresses.

Comments welcome.

so....any progress then?

Boxes arnt to bad 1.4 cuft each is easily done.Side by side in the boot against the seat.It will come to the back edge of the inner wheel arch, will still leave plenty of boot.Sealed if you want tight punchy bass ,Ported is usually louder.

I dare you to charge that big capacitor up and put your tongue across it.

Actually don't. Thats a joke....

Didn`t get round to it yesterday, but will today if the weather behaves.

Have checked up on how to remove the protective panel where the wipers sit, so i can feed the cable in to the cabin - doesn`t look to difficult.

Have decided on a sealed sub enclosure, so just need to come up with a "boot design".

Regarding the capacitator - do i have to charge it, and how do i do that, just + and -?

Now i have the power cable in the cabin. Getting wipers and the panel off wasn`t a problem.

But - i stood for 45min trying to get ****ing rubber grommet back in the hole - but no, it wouldn`t surrender!

My brother has some - i don`t know whats it called - but also used for sealing windows, so we will seal the holes with that - hopefully.

That will be all for today. My fingers hurt like hell after trying to get the grommet in place.

But sunshine and 25 degrees C here where i am - lovely.

I wouldnt bother with the capacitor.They dont really do much.You could upgrade the battery and the big 3(search talk audio forum).

4x4t -> Why shouldn`t i use it? It makes sense that a normal battery can`t supply power fast enough for bass kicks. Why should i waste money on a new battery, when i already have the capacitor?

I just took some pictures of how it looks now:

I've heard that capacitors can actually have a negative effect on the supply to your amps rather than teh positive you're lead to beleive. I think they were just a bit of a fad a few years back really.

I heard the LAT500 in a competition car, and i had a chat with him. He told me to get a good quality capacitor, or else it would be better without.

The one ive got should be ok quality, but we`ll see.

Why wouldnt a normal battery supply enough power and fast enough?.As soon as the cap is empty it acts as another load with an internal resistance.If the amp keeps drawing a large current the cap will never charge and will act as another loading on the battery.You are better off doing the big 3 and maybe buying a gel battery(optima yellow).A 1 farad capacitor supplies enough energy to last such a small part of a second it will be discharged before the end of the bass hit and will then drag the rest of the supply down.

Hmm, just looked up the "big 3":

Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring.

I`ll start with a capacitor and see how it works. Later on i will be putting in a 4*100w RMS Blaupunkt VA4100 amplifier, coupled with LAT250 in the doors, and somekind of component set.

so you are planning on fitting all of this in a fabia? have you spoken to your insurer yet?

so you are planning on fitting all of this in a fabia? have you spoken to your insurer yet?

Yep, that was the plan.

Hmm, no i haven`t, would probably be a good idea.

Have just checked with my insurance.

I`m covered for 1000 pounds as standard, and for 30 pounds extra/year, i will be covered for 2000 pounds.

So for now its all good.

Thanks for the heads up.

The power- and signal cable have now been laid, so I´m currently planning the boot install. I have gotten hold of some 19mm MDF, and will be used for both sub and false floor.

I`m off to a birthday in an hour, but hoping to get started today on the sub and boot, but may have to wait until tomorrow.

So far I´m amazed of how smooth its gone. No major hurdles, and nothing broken. I`m off work with stress atm, so just have to take it easy - but I´m enjoying myself with the build.

4x4 is correct about the capacitor.

It will do nothing except act as a drain on the charging system.

All it will do is perhaps give a meaty supply of current to the very first draw the system makes, but after that it is basically an empty tube that needs filling with the juice that should be going to your amps.

tbh if you have made a decent job of the cabling, you won't notice any difference with or without the cap.

When you increase the amp number or current draw you will then be looking at a split charge system or uprated alternator and 0 gauge multiple runs etc etc.

All of this is done in car hifi with no mention of caps any where ever

Get yourself over to talkaudio for the full run down on capacitors. Nearly all of the countries competitors are there and you will soon see what there thoughts are :lol:

Hmm, ok. Will give it a go without the capacitor and see how it works out.

I`m nearly finished with the subwoofer box.

My phone has gone faulty, and therfore i have no camera. I will see if i can borrow a camera and take som pictures.

It really is quite a job making the correct angles. Need to get hold of some glue that expands. So long as the box is air tight, it`s all in the green zone.

The box and floor will be carpeted.

@pagh - I agree with 4X4t, its best to leave the capacitor out, all it does is that it stores power and then send it to the amp at a steady rate for that fraction of a second while a bigger battery would be able to give out more power, matt that with a good quality 4 or 2 gauge cable and u wont really need that cap

Look at the Optima Yellow Top or even Ground Zero has a really nice performance battery

I have a 50W* radio transceiver installed, and the manufacturer's instructions are to wire it directly to the battery with #12AWG and an in-line fuse. Any other arrangement will drop too many volts when drawing high current. Unlike the ICE, it doesn't cut out when I hit the starter.

In comparison, a starter motor draws 40-150 amps and the battery copes with that.

Forget about a capacitor or heavier battery, and fit heavy wiring directly to the battery, with a heavy relay if you need a switched live.

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* RMS, the current draw is 9 amps with a 15.5A fast blow fuse.

Ok, so the box and false floor have been trial fitted, and ive had a play with the LAT500:

The LAT500 produces a real tight and precise bass.

I need to find out how much power it can handle, but it can really work.

So far i havent been dissapointed, and can recommend the LAT to others. As with anything else, it is a matter of taste. For my liking, the LAT is what i look for in a sub.

The amp and speakon connector sits a little close together, but that will be taken care of.

The sub install is now done, here are some pics:

I`m currently looking into how i want the front.

I have been laid off, so it will be a while before i have the money to do the front.

I`m planning on spending ca. 600 pounds, and will be using LAT250 in the front doors.

Have you customized the look of your head unit to match the dash? I'm still 50/50 on whether to buy the JVC KD-BT1 because it looks pretty gordy on the jvc site with the white screen and black text.

Havent done anything physical to it, but have chosen a green color that matches the "Skoda green" pretty well.

Here is a picture:

It doesn`t match the black dash very well because of the silver bits, but it could be alot worse.

If OEM look is very important to you, have a look at Becker. Very good quality and no bling bling looks.

Ah... the led colors don't change then like the pioneer units?