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Octavia 1 - Replacing Door Latch Microswitch


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#1 Ali C

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 19:29

Just had to get me door latch changed as the interior light and all that is connected to it failed so got it all done for £158 is this a good deal

#2 Bowders1

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 22:36

No, not considering I just changed mine for £3.

Although I had to take the door apart to get to the latch mechanism to change the micro switch that operates the interior light. I can post instructions and some pic if anyone interested. The VW forums do not go into detail that well, as stripping down the Octavia door is not the same as a Passat and Golf. It is not a job for the faint hearted. Took me 2 hours. VW,AUDI must of been paid a large sum to make those locking mechanisms that complicated.

#3 AndrewTait

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 19:56

If you could put up pics/instructions I for one would appreciate it - This is something which I need to do at some point.

Cheers,
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#4 westallc

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 11:01

this has just happend to mine can you post a how to please:thumbup:

#5 Bowders1

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 13:33

OK will post up something later on today

#6 Bowders1

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 20:39

Ok, so here goes.


I guess this can be moved to the techi section at some point


Part 1.



I must add that these instructions are to fix the none functioning of the interior light from when the driver's door is open and when the light on the driver’s door is not working for the same reason. This involves replacing the door latch micro switch. I also can't be held responsible should folks not be successful in fixing there door mechanism.

If you do not feel confident, then the options are to either purchase a complete lock mechanism for dealers at around £100 or a scrap yard one at around £25- £30( can never be sure these will work). Or get someone else to do it

Various threads I found for info that may help.

http://www.taligentx...rlockmechanism/
http://forums.vwvort...=1542461&page=8
http://forums.tdiclu...?t=77648&page=4
http://gruvenparts.c...ined - MKIV.htm
http://forums.tdiclu...?t=77648&page=8

Tools needed:

- Long nose pliers
- Small flat screwdriver
- TX10 torx bit (for removing door panel screws)
- TX20 torx (long piece or long torx allen key) for removing external door handle
- TX30 torx bit for losing the window regulator
- 12 point star driver/bit (aka triple-square or spline bit): M8(for removing the Lock asm)
- Phillips screw driver
- Duck tap (to hold window up)
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Micro switch - Burgess Part #275-016A. This is a Radio Shack item.
I purchased mine on EBay. This is the Radio Shack web site.

http://www.radioshac....tId=2049718,

Posted Image

Other alternatives
- Burgess V4NS-UL

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DK series

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So if you still feel up to it .

- Start by putting a cloth over the window frame and then using duck tape support the window (this is safety precaution only and not because we need to take the window out, but we will be loosening the screws that hold the regular in place. (later in the instructions).

Example to another car
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Then start removing the Interior door panel by removing.

- The grip handle that is at the back of the interior door handle.(on the electric window switch panel) with a small flat screw driver to gently ease it out.

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- Remove the Electric window switch panel. This is push fit and needs some gentle persuasion with the flat blade screw driver at each end. Should then pop up. Then unplug the connector.

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- unscrew the 3 screws (Phillips that are uncovered from the removal of the electric window multi switch panel.
- The Triangular Tweeter surround bracket (use a small flat screw driver to gently lever the side to allow it to pop out of the 2 lugs.

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Note mine is a custom speaker, I left it hanging, you should be able to unplug the standard connector if you have standard speakers.
- unclip the Electric mirror switch panel using small flat screw driver again and unplug the connector and remove the switch panel. This will expose a screw holding the trim in place, remove this.

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- Unclip the Drivers door light using the small flat screw driver. Unplug the connector from the back of the light.
- Finally undo the retaining screws from the sides and bottom of the trim panel (7 screws with TX10 torx)

The panel will now come away by applying some pressure upwards and outwards. Be careful as the panel will still be connected by
The door handle cable
The door pin (silver plastic rod)
The door “locked” LED
You should be able to separate the panel enough to the get to these items.
Then whilst either getting someone to help you, or support the panel on something unclip the door lock LED and remove the door pin.
Then slowly pull away the panel and unclip the door handle cable.

Job done on removing the panel.

Now we need to remove the exterior door handle.

You can follow these instructions on the link from a Briskodian member

http://briskoda.net/...octavia/126938/

Or use this good example too (was for a Passat).. (This is where you will need a long reach TX20 torx bit, or a TX20 torx allen key.
Remove the small plastic tab on the rear edge of the door with a screwdriver.(2 for the Skoda Octavia) The tab is indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.

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18. Behind the plastic tab is a retaining screw which is used to secure the blank in the door handle, indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below. On the driver's side door, the screw secures the piece which surrounds the door lock key slot.

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19. Loosen (but do not completely remove) the retaining screw with a T20 Torx driver. The screw actually has a very small triple square head, but a T20 driver works perfectly. The retaining screw can be seen in the picture below.

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20. Loosen the retaining screw enough so that the handle blank slides out of the door. (2 for the Skoda Octavia) The passenger's and driver's side pieces can be seen in the pictures below. On my car, the screws needed to be turned approximately 13-15 turns for the pieces to slide out. Also, you may need to pull out on the door handle slightly to allow each piece to slide completely out.

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21. The outer handle is connected to the door lock module by a small cable (red arrow in picture below). The end of the cable is secured to the handle by a small plastic tab (yellow arrow in picture below) which fits into a threaded groove.

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22. Pop the tab on the end of the cable out of its retaining groove using a small screwdriver, as shown below. Before doing this, note the position of the tab in the groove so that it can be reinstalled in approximately the same position later.

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23. The picture below shows the tab detached from the retaining groove.

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This is as far as you need to go on the outside, to then take out the Door lock Mechanism.
Now you are ready to remove the door lock mechanism.
This is where the taped up window comes into play.

- First you will need to either carefully pull off the door membrane on the right hand side or cut it down the side so to expose the window regulator bracket bolts and allow access to get at the door lock mechanism. You will need to tape this back up later.

- Then unscrew the TX30 torx screws on the right hand side that support the window regulator. This is to allow enough room for the door lock mechanism to come out.
- Then remove the two door lock module bolts on the rear edge of the door using the 8mm triple square tool. The bolts are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below.

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The 8mm triple square tool is also shown below.

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- You will then be left with the door lock lose and the door handle cable still attached to it. Un pop the door handle cable from its clip.
- You will now be able to manipulate the door lock by carefully twisting it around the lose window regular bracket to remove it out of the car. See picture below

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- Before taking it completely out release the wiring plug. Underneath the mechanism.

Now the Door lock mechanism is free. Well done.

Edited by Bowders1, 18 December 2011 - 11:11.

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#7 Bowders1

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 23:17

Part 2

Stripping down the Door lock asm to replace the Micro switch

Pic of mechanism with the micro switch wires (blue and red). This is what we need to get at.

Posted Image


You need to remove this micro switch and replace it with the one you have purchased.

- Observe the position and how the old switch works. Then remove the old switch. It is held in place by two plastic plugs that are melted to hold the switch. Pry it out with a small flat bladed screwdriver and clip the wires at the switch.

Seen in the pic below on the reverse side of the mechanism, take note of the correct way round the top part of the switch mechanism contact point.


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The result will then look like this.

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Examination of the switch shows why it was not working


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The switch was completely missing the little plastic rod that triggers the internal part of the switch to operate.
As the replacement switch is not like this and will need to be either screwed down or glued with strong cement. I opted for screws.
In this pic you will see the difference between the old and new switch, mainly the holes in the new switch that screws will be used to hold it in place. You will also have to remove the metal lever that comes with the new switch by slowly twisting it out with pliers. You don't need it, just the main body of the switch.


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- cut the red and blue wires off of the old switch near to the switch end
- You will need a dremel tool or small drill to slot out the holes in the new switch inwards and upwards to the top of the switch to allow the screws to fit through the mechanism holes and through the switch and to give adequate clearance for the cam in the mechanism to clear the switch.
Some folks have actually dremelled the lock asm rather than the switch, this is up to you, but I felt more comfortable doing this to the new switch (rather bugger that up than the asm).

Here is a pic of someone else’s attempt to drill the lock.

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- When you have drilled out the holes enough to get screws through it and the lock it should look something like this. Note the below pic has the switch around the wrong way as it is a VW Passat and slightly different

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Note I added a couple more nuts to hold in place better and also used screw thread lock.

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- Solder the previously cut wires to the new switch on the terminals.
Attach the wires to the Common and one to the NO (normally open). This is the middle terminal (ignore the pic above as first soldered it wrong. Does not matter which way round the colors go by the way.
- You are now ready to test the results
- Take the door lock mechanism out to the car and replug the door lock connector whilst holding the mechanism.
- Try to manipulate the door open and closed by sliding a screw driver into the latch area to see if the interior light will come on.
- You can do this by pulling up the lever on the mechanism and at the same time push the latch down or up.

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- If all is well you have just repaired you door latch mechanism

It is now a case of putting it all back together.

Edited by Bowders1, 18 December 2011 - 11:23.

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#8 RobClubley

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 01:08

That's excellent. Thanks for taking the time to do this guide.

#9 Bowders1

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 16:20

That's excellent. Thanks for taking the time to do this guide.


No worries thought it may be useful, something I had been meaning to do for a while. just getting it all together takes time.
Next time I go to a scrapyard I think I will be stripping out a few of these for spares, as to get hold of original micro switch's from dealers is impossible, and the copy one (burgess) is not quite as good, although it does the trick. It means messing about drilling the switch holes out , that's all.

#10 Funkoid

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Posted 04 April 2009 - 15:03

Would this be a potential fix for 00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Front Driver Side (F220) 27-00 - Implausible Signal?

#11 Bowders1

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Posted 05 April 2009 - 10:26

Well that was the exact code it had on mine. So I would say yes.

Hopefully with that error your door panel light is not working when door open and your interior light does not come on also.

Rgds
Mark.

#12 Funkoid

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Posted 06 April 2009 - 07:47

Hmmm that's what is weird the door panel light is working fine when i open the door.

#13 Bowders1

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Posted 10 April 2009 - 00:39

Hmmm, maybe that code is a generic code for the drivers door module and mechanism?
What symptoms are you getting or is it an old code that needs clearing. I just cleared a number of codes that don't appear to be causing issues and have not come back since.

#14 Funkoid

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 11:57

Hmmm, maybe that code is a generic code for the drivers door module and mechanism?
What symptoms are you getting or is it an old code that needs clearing. I just cleared a number of codes that don't appear to be causing issues and have not come back since.


Nope definetly a fault i've cleared it then re-created the issue a few times right away. Basically the drivers door doesn't open off the central locking remote all other doors do without issue, the same goes for when you're actually sat in the car pressing the lock unlock button, the drivers door lock just doesn't move which is of course the most annoying from my point of view!!!

The dash light to say the door is open comes on as does the interior light, not 100% sure about the "lights are on" buzz but will have to check this again - i recalled it working the last time i tried though.

Bit stumped because my issue seems different to all of the others i've looked at so far. The only thing that i do remember happening is when we had that really really bad bout of ice a few months back. There was a very loud twang/ping after i'd been driving for about 2 mins that came from the drivers side door, thats when the problem started and its just got gradually worse from there on in.
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#15 Bowders1

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 21:32


There was a very loud twang/ping after i'd been driving for about 2 mins that came from the drivers side door, thats when the problem started and its just got gradually worse from there on in.


This sounds like the cable to the Door latch. When you press the remote can you here the door latch on the drivers side trying to work?

I would definately follow the guide to getting the door panel off. Then you will see if either the exterior cable to door handle has snapped (common)

Posted Image

or the cable that is inside the door panel that runs from the mechanism to the chrome door latch.

Posted Image

#16 Funkoid

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 08:57

This sounds like the cable to the Door latch. When you press the remote can you here the door latch on the drivers side trying to work?

I would definately follow the guide to getting the door panel off. Then you will see if either the exterior cable to door handle has snapped (common)

snip
or the cable that is inside the door panel that runs from the mechanism to the chrome door latch.

snip


Thanks for that bowders, based on what you've said it'd make more sense to be for it to be the exterior cable as i forgot to mention the handle sometimes gets stuck up an upward out position..... lets hope for good whether tomorrow! edit - is it easy enough to lay a new cable then or is it worth just taking it the garage?

#17 pdhealy

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 21:00

Okay, for anyone who has tried the 4th microswitch fix, can anyone post up a diagram/ pic of where the U-shaped clip fits in to the mechanism. It fell into my door when I over-loosened one of the retaining screws (See fig 19 in original post #6 above)

#18 tonedcos

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 17:23

Thanks for the info guys. Most enlightening. Just aquired the no interior light story with mine. Baffled me when i couldn't find any switches on the car before i realised they must be in the door. On that note. Do you know if all doors have a switch, and are they independant, ie all work or none? I have an Octavia glxi 00 reg. Thanks again. :)

#19 SP-1

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 15:25

Hi Boys and girls.

Since I've gained so much information from this site I feel I owe it to you all to give you a bit back.

I have today (27th July 2010) replaced my drivers door lock assembly.

The symptoms I had were:
No interior light when drivers door opened.
No door safety light (the red and white one on the bottom right had side of the door as you look at it opened)
No "lights on alarm" when drivers door opened, with ignition off, lights on and door open.

It seems a common fault on all in the VAG range. Indeed when I went into a local Skoda dealership to see how much a new mechanism was the bloke new without even looking at the screen, as they sell a lot of them!! £110 plus VAT!

I bought a second hand lock mechanism from ebay, for £25. I then went to Maplin electronics shop and bought a microswitch. This one:

http://www.maplin.co...OrderCode=N95AQ

I tried the one with the metal hinge as I figured it might be more robust, however I couldn't make it fit, so used the one without. It looks similar to the original!

The holes don't quite line up, but instead of drilling it, I used a really strong glue to hold it in place. You need to look at the "cam" of the door lock to see where best to place it. Too far away and it won't make contact, too close and it'll smash the switch.

I followed the instructions from a Haynes manual, and looked on here. The only thing I would say is I didn't need to remove any of the electric window mechanism. Once released there was enough room (just) to get the lock mechanism out.

The whole job start to finish took me 3 hours.

I already had most of the tools, except the "splined socket" drives, needed to remove the mechanism from the door. I bought a set for £15 from Halfords, that fitted onto my existing half inch socket driver.

All in all I'd say it's not difficult if you're half mechanically minded, it's just a bit time consuming. Time will tell if glue was the right idea though!!!!!!

#20 VRS Mike

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Posted 31 July 2010 - 18:58

Cheers for the write up Bowders, just swapped the knackered one for one from another car. Took me 2 hours because a few problems, could probably do it in 30 mins now :giggle:

Now my puddle light works :thumbup: but the new one is a little bit more noisy than my old one. :doh:

#21 stewmitch

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 11:09

exellent guide to this problem which just started on my ocy
10/10 cheers

#22 CSJimbo

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 21:04

The switch doesn't always fail with its contacts open. On mine it's failed closed so the car always thinks the driver's door is not fully shut. First I noticed was the interior light didn't turn off when I started the car. Additionally the remote locking would only unlock, not lock the car.

Different symptoms but the same cause.

#23 havoc924

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:18

The switch doesn't always fail with its contacts open. On mine it's failed closed so the car always thinks the driver's door is not fully shut. First I noticed was the interior light didn't turn off when I started the car. Additionally the remote locking would only unlock, not lock the car.

Different symptoms but the same cause.



Does anyone still have the pictures for this guide..... i need to replace mine now ?
Thanks

#24 darrylg

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 19:34

Nope definetly a fault i've cleared it then re-created the issue a few times right away. Basically the drivers door doesn't open off the central locking remote all other doors do without issue, the same goes for when you're actually sat in the car pressing the lock unlock button, the drivers door lock just doesn't move which is of course the most annoying from my point of view!!!

The dash light to say the door is open comes on as does the interior light, not 100% sure about the "lights are on" buzz but will have to check this again - i recalled it working the last time i tried though.

Bit stumped because my issue seems different to all of the others i've looked at so far. The only thing that i do remember happening is when we had that really really bad bout of ice a few months back. There was a very loud twang/ping after i'd been driving for about 2 mins that came from the drivers side door, thats when the problem started and its just got gradually worse from there on in.


It's a while ago since you posted, but mine has just got this exact fault and the same symptoms.
Only difference is mine seems temperamental. It works in the evenings, but not in the mornings (like me!).
I think it could be on it's way out.
Also, my "lights on" buzzer doesn't work, and I swear the puddle light doesn't work sometimes.

Does this sound like the micro-switch?
Did replacing the micro-switch fix your issue?

Many thanks.

#25 darrylg

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 18:41

It's a while ago since you posted, but mine has just got this exact fault and the same symptoms. Only difference is mine seems temperamental. It works in the evenings, but not in the mornings (like me!). I think it could be on it's way out. Also, my "lights on" buzzer doesn't work, and I swear the puddle light doesn't work sometimes. Does this sound like the micro-switch? Did replacing the micro-switch fix your issue? Many thanks.


OK, for anyone reading, today was lovely and sunny. I'd already prepped the car by removing the door innards a while back, so I just needed to get the lock assembly out.
After about an hour I had it out and was checking it over. The microswitch was working!
When inserting a tiny screwdriver to depress the microswitch, I could see that the switch is purely there to indicate to the car, when the door is open or not. The door open light was working, the fuel pump engaged, the interior light works.
Whats more, when the car is locked with the remote, the red door LED flashes when I've disconnected the lock assembly from the door wiring. It doesn't flash when the assembly is connected and the car is locked with the remote.

So now I have another problem. If the microswitch is not preventing the central locking from working on the drivers door, then could it be the door locking unit itself? There must be a PCB inside plus a motor.
I'm due to take a further look tomorrow to check the control unit on the window regulator for corrosion as posted by another member.
If there's nothing wrong there, then I guess I'll disassemble the lock unit and mess with it.

#26 darrylg

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 18:14

FYI, I managed to sort this in the end.
I've posted what I found and some pics here: http://www.briskoda....ost__p__2708544
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#27 IulianE

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 20:38

I don't understand any of these. :think:


Tomorow I'll change mine...

#28 vworks41

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 15:53

I know this is an older thread, but could somone kindly tell me what the red and blue wires coresponed to when going to the microswitch?
The guy who done this how to thread said it doesnt matter which way they go round...is this correct?
Cheers.

#29 Bowders1

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 21:20

I know this is an older thread, but could somone kindly tell me what the red and blue wires coresponed to when going to the microswitch?
The guy who done this how to thread said it doesnt matter which way they go round...is this correct?
Cheers.


That guy is me and yes does not matter, which is why i stated that, and my door lock/switch still works after 3 years.

cheers
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#30 ash983

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 21:28

Hi. I found this really hopeful and I am currently working on the micro-switch. When I tried to secure the new switch by two small holes in it, I was too close to the interior parts of the switch and it caused some damage. The switch doesn't work well anymore. Does anyone know the size of the two screws you need for this job? Can I use glue instead?

Thanks