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These LED DRL bulbs work without resistors

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Just fitted a pair of these LED DRL bulbs on the Yeti and they work without external resistors and there is no 'bulb out' message.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P13W-Xenon-WHITE-29W-HIGH-POWER-CREE-LED-Car-Fog-Bulbs-AUDI-CAMARO-/181105419356?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda&hash=item2a2ab9645c

 

LED bulb longer than the original bulb but fits fine. 

post-15906-0-78571700-1384016027_thumb.jpg

 

Early days yet, been for a 45 minute drive, and also left ignition on for 30 minutes and still no bulb warning message. Hopefully they will stay like that and last for years as they seem good quality.

 

Nice to get rid of the yellow DRL's.

post-15906-0-29161900-1384016113_thumb.jpg

 

They look very bright in photo, in reality don't look so blinding, may be due to low quality camera phone.

 

Hope this is of help.

 

P.S. I have no affiliation with the seller whatsoever.          

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  • I did think of doing this mod a while ago but dismissed it as too much agro with external resistors and scotch locks etc, but for £33 I'm still not going to bother.

  • Isn't 29W rather a lot for DRLs?  Using a fairly conservative LED-to-tungsten conversion factor, that works out at equivalent to a normal bulb of nearly 150W!  OTOH it says the light output is 800 lum

  • By their very nature DRLs do NOT have to have a focus or spread the light forward.  That is NOT what they are supposed to do.  All they do is create a spot of brightness on the surface of a moving veh

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Just give it time... The error message will come at some point I suspect.

Very good. The ebay description does state they have built in resistors and are compatible with canbus wiring, so you should have no worries with the bulb failure light.

That's different then!  They DO have resistors just not separate ones.  Sounds good.

As stated in their advert - just covering their backs!

 

IMPORTANT!!! These bulbs have already built in resistors and are compatible with "bulb failure" Can-Bus System in 90% of cars , But some modern cars ECU-s can be very picky and you may need to fit extra resistors to eliminate on dashboard computer error message.

Thank you, going to get myself a pair.

I did think of doing this mod a while ago but dismissed it as too much agro with external resistors and scotch locks etc, but for £33 I'm still not going to bother.

Fitting external Resistors to non-canbus LED's is always better. These "error-free" LED's have built-in resistors that are usually SMD's that are rated to handle not more than a watt of power while they are subjected to much higher powers in these cases. So they heat up really bad in turn and eventually fail. This heat adds to the heat that is already being generated by the on-board LED's (CREE), mutually acting in their destruction. External resistors are designed to handle the right power and can be fastened to the body of the car where they give off heat in a proper manner and work in a smooth way.

Fitting external Resistors to non-canbus LED's is always better. These "error-free" LED's have built-in resistors that are usually SMD's that are rated to handle not more than a watt of power while they are subjected to much higher powers in these cases. So they heat up really bad in turn and eventually fail. This heat adds to the heat that is already being generated by the on-board LED's (CREE), mutually acting in their destruction. External resistors are designed to handle the right power and can be fastened to the body of the car where they give off heat in a proper manner and work in a smooth way.

Ah. In that case I'm happy with mine with external resistors. Was a huge, huge pain fitting the bulbs (the resistors were dead easy) and they are still working 100% all the time.

I've ordered some and will see-dim orange does not flatter the looks.

Could the OP (or anyone else who gets them and fits them) please post a picture whenever possible? These look very interesting, might have a shot at them...

Isn't 29W rather a lot for DRLs?  Using a fairly conservative LED-to-tungsten conversion factor, that works out at equivalent to a normal bulb of nearly 150W!  OTOH it says the light output is 800 lumens, which is half what my LED bicycle headlight is rated at and I'm sure that isn't rated anywhere near 29W.  The numbers don't seem to quite stack up, unless someone who understands this stuff better than me (which must add up to the population of a sizable country!) can elucidate?

 

I tend to agree with CFB, though: SWMBO would not be impressed with me spending £33 on whiter DRLs.  That's only £1 less than two litres of Gordons at Tesco, and I know which would provide more overall happiness!

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Photos added to original post  :happy:

Longer bulb = light source further away from designed focal point = uncontrolled light scatter.

 

Not for me.

Longer bulb = light source further away from designed focal point = uncontrolled light scatter.

 

Not for me.

The DRLs aren't focussed as they come from the factory-they are deliberately diffused as a position light and don't produce any organised beam so I'm happy to try them. 

I know they don't "produce a beam" but the reflector and lens are still constructed to make use of a specific focal length from the bulb, and putting something in beyond those design parameters could potentially lead to a problem with light scatter.

 

I'm surprised at the cost of them!

  • Author

Cost is not too high when you consider the original bulbs are £20 each :think:

Phoned Skoda dealer and they sell original bulbs at £33 (for one bulb)!

Edited by styler67

Hi Guys

 

I've decided to give them a try - fed of waiting for Super Skoda to produce their "magic" resisting harness. If the canbus error does come up I reckon I will probably still be able to use the bulbs with the harness once it appears, although I suspect the cost from SS may be high.

 

Cheers

 

Christopher

Hello Again

 

Just an update - received the "error free" DRL bulbs from the Ebay seller - a right pain to fit but did it eventually albeit with scraped knuckles. The bulbs are nice and bright and initially appeared to work without throwing up an error message. However after less then 10 mins of driving my 2012 Yeti the dreaded "bulb out" sign and maxi dot error message came up. The same sequence happens each time I drive the car so I suppose for journeys of less than a mile they are ideal!

The maxi dot message displays once and then disappears leaving a small yellow warning light within the main instrument panel - this is not too obtrusive and I think I will live with it until Super Skoda start selling their version which I am sure will work as advertised.

Cheers

 

Christopher

Biamp thanks for being the guinea pig for this - gutted they don't work after all... I am curious whether the OP has still not had any errors come up.

I guess I will also have to wait for the Superskoda ones...

Edited by gcp

Thank you Christopher, you've just saved me 33 quid.

How do these work with the cornering lights? I'm guessing with the LED's you don't get the soft fade in and out with these? 

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