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Got my Yeti wheels powder coated. Felt I didn't have a choice other than purchase new. Once the laquer was compromised on my wheels I was fighting a loosing battle. Really please with the result. Time and avoiding kerbs will see how this finish holds up. I've attached before and after pics.

Had mine powder coated. So much better than the diamond cut, lacquer jobs!

I had both sets of Annapurnas on my Yeti powder coated at 3 years, when I sold the car and wheels (separately) earlier this year , they were all in fine condition. Why manufacturers insist in foisting the 'diamond cut/lacquered' wheels on us I shall never understand = they are simply not fit for purpose here. The Crater rims on my current Karoq will be getting the same treatment as soon as Mr Whiteworm makes his inevitable visit!

H&R 40mm

I have mine replaced under warranty - I have DCC - I had my 'VAG specialist' check over the car and he reported that front shocks were leaking but that was 'normal'!! Ive since found a different garage.... Anyway my main warranty had run out - but the dealer I bought from had given me another years extended - I claimed at Skoda Aldershot - surprisingly they approved and I have a fresh new set fitted to the car. Agreed it should not happen. Parts were £567 excluding labour. List price of shocks is 258.75 excl VAT (3Q0413031AK). My warranty has now all run out. If you have to pay for a replacement I would consider Bilstein B6 as an OEM+ replacement. FG

It's more complicated because it's also a more sophisticated option with better control over the ECU than the rest of the tuning boxes, resulting in a more OEM power delivery with better boost and AFR curves, which is why it's considered the top of tuning boxes, comparable even to a full remap. It's also got more features than just providing extra bhp, (remote logging, boost by gear, meth controller, custom map setup), a huge client database all over the world that has allowed them to idnetify engine/gearbox issues before even some tuners themselves, and a great support from BMS that's really knowledgeable on these engines. I know people will say "i had my DTUK/Racechip/whatever box on for years and it was great" which in most cases translates to "i installed it - car felt faster - it hasn't blown up" but i wonder how many are really aware of how these ECUs work on making power, let alone having logged their cars to verify data looks safe and within factory tolerances. And yes even a Jb4 doesn't have the full access to operating parameters a remap has but it's the closest thing to it in the form of a removable box.

Wanted to add my building/retrofit/cool-stuff experiences. Always hard to find detail and pictures in the wild so hoping this helps others. Badge and Emblem Replacement - Major Reason - I think the Black looks much better on the Steel Grey body paint than the factory chrome. Tips/Tricks/How-To 1) Give yourself plenty of time and make sure its not going to rain......the warmer the better as it makes removal easier. 2) Hair dryer on a low-setting will help to "loosen" the glue. Well its not glue its more like double-sided sticky-pad material. My car is only a month old so it may be harder on older cars as the adhesive will have set and the padding may come off in little pieces instead. 3) I used dental floss to "saw" through the glue holding the badges and emblems in place. You can use minty-fresh or plain dental floss :-) The front and rear badge have A LOT of the sticky-padding so keep working away at it. I found using an old ATM Card allows you to pry it off and doesn't scratch the paint. There are also 3 protruding plastic notches on the rear of the badge so it won't come off as easy as the emblems. Be warned it is near impossible to get the badges off without snapping them. The joy of the black protruding notches is that it will only line up and fit one way......and that's perfectly straight. 4) I used blue masking tape (painters-tape) to line up the original emblems as once you remove the sticky-pad and the residual adhesive you WON'T see the outline of the old emblems. After the work and cost you don't want to screw it up and have the emblem not straight........it'll **** you off every time you admire your work!! 5) Cleaning off the residual adhesive I used rubbing-alcohol and a CLEAN buffing cloth. Its easier if you can grab a little piece of the pad and SLOWLY pull it off as it comes off in one nice movement without the need to scrape off the adhesive with a fingernail. 6) Shine a light and look for any imperfections, you want the surface to be spotless, clean and dry before fitting the replacements. The joy of rubbing-alcohol is that it dries quick and leaves no residue. They're pretty much the factory-part so remove the rear protective strip and then line it up and press hard on the individual letters. I also used a paint-roller to roll over the emblem before removing the protective clear plastic just to be sure it was stuck on nice and flat. 7) Link for the badges and emblems. You can buy individual or a "pack". I opted for the body-paint coloured front and rear badges and the 3-pack for the emblems. http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-original-Skoda-emblem-INT-version http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-original-Skoda-MONTE-CARLO-black-emblem-set-´SKODA´--´OCTAVIA´--´RS-245´

New to these shores, but with my recently acquired "toy", I thought it appropriate to say hello 👋 Looking forward to sharing my Skoda Superb experience.......and (I have no doubt) picking your friendly brains.

Solder joints are all fine

It's 2001, only thing that makes me doubt its the cluster is the fact the oil light comes on when the engine is warm. I'll have a peak.

@horkin All Motability cars at the end of lease get returned to Dealerships, but they go to BCA (British Car Auctions) If they have Ex Motability cars coming in then they put an offer in and bought them, and not necessarily will have cars they supplied or serviced.

According to skoda the haldex is at 3 years. Not mileage dependant. Plenty will disagree! Thats a very early 280! Mine was high 40's at 2yrs old and no changes. Got DSG done straight away and haldex early by time but mileage seemed sensible to do it. its been fine since and didn't have issues before. 5 services seems quite diligent when it could have only 3 if kept on long life. Life's a risk. Does the price reflect the uncertainty? For me it did. They are great cars if its what you want and expect. And you like suprising people 😉

The AFS system only works if the light switch is in the auto position. So it can be disabled at will by turning the switch to on.

Cheers Shy and good work on the calipers.

I read in the instructions that the download should carry on where it left off when the power comes back on.

It suits those wheels! Looks great, I do love the Superb SportLine

Inspired by your photo above spent 5 hours painting my 4 brake calipers Skoda Rallye Green in tribute to my Mk1 Octavia and Fabia Vrs models and put on the refurbished (painted silver) Audi RS6 replica 8.5J x 19” alloys with Michelin Pilot Sport tyres.

Completely changes the look of the car on the Audi replicas. Huge rim protection on those tyres! What are they?

Car will settle on the suspension after my first commute back to work on Thursday.

Car was still jacked up on some photo’s and will settle when I drive it next on Thursday.

Finally had enough room to spin my car around in the shared drive paint all 4 brake callipers in metallic Skoda Rallye Green and fit my Audi RS6 replica alloys 8.5J x 19 with Michelin Pilot Sport tyres.

The lamp out sensor is a sensitive to having the correct bulb. The parking/side lights are W3W. Check you have not put in a W5W.

In the UK any dealer which comes across a vehicle with this failure should submit a safety report to Skoda UK. This is done via the Diss system and is picked up at tech support at MK. They will then investigate and report to the relevant factory if necessary. If you are affected then please insist your dealer submits the report. They will need to ask you some questions and seek your permission to allow to Skoda UK to investigate. This can take some time to reach a conclusion but needs to happen so that tech support are aware.

Get a proper diagnosis rather than a "most likely................." "will cost you lots of money..........." = we dont know what it is & just want you to go away. A compression test at the very minimum rather than sticking a finger in the air.

When I updated to v9 I had my engine on, simply because of the battery health, but if your battery is healthy it should be ok without turning your engine on - it did take about two hours though...stayed in the car the whole time playing with my phone but just wanted to be sure nothing goes wrong

Thanks Sasha

Adaptive means more functionality, not better quality. Like everything else KISS applies, more functionality (complexity) means more chance of failure.

The Greenline has lowered sports suspension as standard. This is done to improve the car's aerodynamic drag and therefore improve it's fuel consumption. The lower sidewalls of 17" and even more so 18" will make the ride harder. 195/65R15 tyres on 6Jx15 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rims will fit the Greenline. http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2016/drive_standart/753/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601010/part_id/2543681/lang/e Notice the two different designs of 15" wheel trims. Alcar 7755 6Jx15 ET43 5/112 57.1 Steel Rims https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750637?search=ALCAR Rim Rims (7755) 195/65R15 are a common and low priced tyre size and very comfortable https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=ODF8RMhOjNbVAQ6T.110.273276079&sowigan=So&Breite=195&Quer=65&Felge=15&Marke=Continental&ranzahl=4&Herst=Continental&m_s=3&Ang_pro_Seite=10&sort_by=Lable_1roll&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=A-A-71-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-361249

Well the slow boat finally arrived today and i owe rusty a huge thanks and a beer if our paths ever cross. After a few messages and a firmware update still didn't resolve the issue, rusty said he thought it could be the radio board...... with nothing much to lose, i ordered This from aliexpress and waited in hope. Arrived today, followed some hard drive replacement guide and swapped out the board. The great news is, i now have audio from my stereo again Many thanks rusty!

I was not aware of the different software versions on the AFS master until after I had bought mine. There was a belief that AFS II would not work on modules with software earlier than 0148 but mine accepted the coding and it appears to be working. The most obvious sign of the light pattern changing is when accelerating past 28mph (45kmh), the offside light beam moves back into the centre. This is clearly the transition between "city light" and "country light". You can try the AFS II coding on yours, it will either accept it or not. The basic setting is easy if your headlights are already aligned, just make sure you park the car on level ground without any extra weight in it then start the basic setting and click through it. This just tells the car that whatever the level sensors are reading at that moment should be considered completely level. Almost impossible to buy RHD xenons brand new except from Skoda themselves, and the LHD lights do have a different beam pattern so cannot be used.

I've seen larger bodied drivers, or those with mobility issues put their whole weight on the window switches whilst exiting their vehicle. I'm not suggesting that's the case here by the way! Just that some times it isn't always the manufacturers fault.

The sidelights connect directly to the BCM. It's a 6"x6"x1" black box above the pedals in the drivers footwel. It's hard to miss as it has 3 big 52 pin connectors to it (black, white and beige/gold). It's full of solid state electronics so there are no user servicbale fuses/relays inside...

https://autobible.euro.cz/srovnavaci-test-3x-skoda-fabia-1-0/ Škoda Fabia 1.0 MPI vs. 1.0 TSI 70 kW vs. 1.0 TSI 81 kW: Verdict If you buy the Fabia as a universal means of transport, with which you will also go on holiday with your family, or every weekend to visit your relatives in Moravia, you would probably come across its limits with the MPI soon and take the TSI. Just, if possible, do not drive around the city or "around the chimney" every day. Škoda Auto has now saved you the dilemma of choosing between the 95k and 110k versions, the second is now only with the machine, the first exclusively with the manual. But if you are not in a hurry, you usually ride solo and you cannot avoid frequent short trips, MPI is ideal for you. It drives better than you think, saves a lot in purchasing and service, and is significantly more pleasant than TSIs in the city due to faster responses and shorter gears. At the same time, it is usually surprisingly more economical when driving quietly at low speeds. And because the families who use the Fabia as a family or vacation car are slowly but surely declining, we consider the benefits provided by the MPI engine to be more important. And we also declare him the clear winner of the test.

Even less hassle is to deactivate kessy when you lock the car. tom

I am fitting a set of these - J hooked and some performance pads - note mine are the 310mm rears for the 280: https://www.vagbremtechnic.com/direct-replacement-j-hooked-or-grooved-discs-click-for-options-drd-go7/

There's probably a way of getting the cd boot changer to play, but I'm buggered if I can remember the trick to it. Something is nagging me in my brain, but I can't remember how it's done. As regards the "Device error" message it sounds like the Bolero is faulty. Might just be the changer mechanism or it might be the electronics. I have a cd changer cartridge on the shelf here which I could sell you if you wanna try that.

You must use the premium Disc from Brembo and pads.

If I may, as an owner of a Fabia MPI 75 estate & previously owned a Fabia MPI 75 hatch put in my experience. It all depends on how you drive. It is not a ball of fire. If in 5th gear you are looking to overtake & change down to 4th thinking to rapidly accelerate, you will probably notice very little extra acceleration, down to 3rd you might get something. I live in Cheshire & my normal route takes me to the Wirral. That journey involves some town driving, a fair amount of country roads & a fair chunk of motorway it also includes a long steepening hill. In general the car is capable, without stress, of keeping up with traffic. Nowadays virtually all of the country roads are covered by 50mph limits. Kelsall Hill requires entering at the maximum permissible speed[70mph], but if not baulked it will, in 5th gear keep up with & be faster than many vehicles on the hill usually reaching the top at around 65mph. If however the speed drops away for whatever reason, you will not get it back, even changing down to 3rd. It will happily cruise on the motorway at 70mph &it keep up with town traffic Driven with foresight & anticipation it is in todays speed controlled roads, perfectly acceptable. It is not the engine for someone wanting to overtake by going for gaps in traffic, or tear away from the lights. The computer says on such trips that it is giving me 53-54mpg - it lies. From experience it is less, probably around 50mpg - but from that I think you can judge that I do not flog the engine.

Are these your wheels? https://www.ebay.de/itm/FELGE-RIM-Skoda-Octavia-Combi-5EAC-Combi-1-6-TDI-Greenline-16V-DBKA-2015/133368858873?hash=item1f0d6748f9:g:jpAAAOSw8wheeHzq OEM part number is 5E0601025AP Specification is 6.5Jx16 ET42 5/112 57.1 http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2016/drive_standart/753/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601060/part_id/2543668/lang/e These VW Passat alloy rims look nice https://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Passat-3C-3AA-B7-Alufelgen-16-Zoll-Felgensatz-Oslo-Felgen-3AA601025J/362806681966?hash=item5478f6a16e:g:ShQAAOSwDMtdxaAs OEM part number is 3AA601025J Specificatiuon is 6.5Jx16 ET42 5/112 57.1 http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/PA/year/2012/drive_standart/702/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601055/part_id/3688046/lang/e Both wheels will take the same 205/55R16 tyre size, which is suitable for the Skoda Octavia MK3 1.6TDI Greenline It's easy to change the VW wheel centre covers to Skoda ones https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5ja601151fod-wheel-centre-cover-with-a-skoda-logo-skoda-19744.html

Reports state Bottas deal is done for 2021. Russel/Vettel will be disappointed.

No. It is all about faulty measuring of the intake manifold pressure either because of a bad sensor or because of a vacuum leak. See photos below to understand what is all about.

These schedules are aimed at the fleet cars. People who want the best out of their private motor vehicle will be changing them sooner. I also ignore the recommendations and change a lot sooner. Looking at the state of some of the old ones for the cost it’s worth changing regularly.

1.4 TDI doesn't blow head gaskets so it's probably leak stopper as mentioned, just keep an eye on the level, it may not look very nice but it's not doing any harm so I'd leave it alone until you know the car better.

I know! I keep thinking , must soon go up.... next MOT I will need a little weld to sort my bent sill out! 😮 but determined to keep it top condition~! we even saw as many alfa Brera's as we did mk1 vRSs! the one we saw was parked up too... its happening with the mk1 mx5s.... prices are steadily rising for ones that are not rusting away! This was skodas first RS , and a rally winner... so got to be a special place for them!

Both second hand from eBay, separate listings about 6 weeks apart. The mk2 fl xenon headlights are stupidly rare - only the L&K had them as standard, and it was a £650 optional extra on most other spec which not a lot of people apparently went for. I had a saved search set up in eBay since last year and until about May 2020, I had only seen a single one get listed in the previous 6 months and it sold before I was serious about doing this project. I was happy to pay up to £200 per light providing they were in very good condition and had all of the bulbs and control gear present. There was no way I was going to faff around buying the xenon ballast and AFS module etc separately, and a pair of decent D1S bulbs is £120! I was very lucky that I managed to get two in excellent condition and for a decent price (£190 and £170). I also got the AFS master from eBay for £17 as it was listed by a breaker as "other control unit" since they didn't seem to know what it was. The headlights brand new from Skoda are over £500 each and I think the AFS master is around £140.

Yes I do but its very difficult to tell when the air is expelled and its just the gas escaping, I probably waste a lot but on the positive side having my own personal hole in the ozone layer means I have no need of a tanning salon, not that I ever used one anyway.

Step 4 - VCDS coding: Enter control module CAN Gateway, click Installation List and check the box for 55 Headlight Range. This will tell the car you have level sensors and a range control module installed. Enter control module Cent. Electrics, go to byte 14 and check bit 4 "Bi-xenon headlights (without shutter) installed". If you don't see this checkbox in your VCDS (it wasn't there for me), do it manually in the binary coding by changing the fifth digit from the right from a 0 to a 1 Enter control module Headlight Range, click on Coding, enter 1507610 and click Go. This should automatically re-code the AFS slaves too. Go to Basic Setting, select Group 01 and click Go. Align the headlights using the manual adjustment screws on top of each headlamp unit. Check for any stored fault codes (there shouldn't be any) and clear if so. Once there are no fault codes left, exit VCDS and cycle the ignition. You are now ready to test if everything works. Step 5 - testing: Every time you start the engine, the headlight motors will perform a self-test routine where the vertical motors will go to their lowest level, the horizontal motors will go to their farthest outwards and back in, and then the vertical motors will return to the correct height. You should also have some new options in maxidot: Under "Assistants" there will be an option to turn Bend Lighting on and off Under "Setup" and then "Lights & Vision" there will be an option to turn Travel Mode on and off. Go for a drive! Once moving, you should notice the headlights will move laterally with the steering. Step 6 - bonus round if you have auto wipers! Try changing the Headlight Range coding to 1311190 - this should unlock AFS II functionality, which the mk2 Octavia was never sold with in the UK. You will need to perform the Basic Setting again after changing the coding! With AFS II, you should also notice that at speeds under ~30mph, the offside headlight will be quite low and pointing quite far outwards. Once you go over ~30mph, you will see it move back towards the centre and slightly upwards. This is the AFS II transitioning from "city light" to "country light". The beam shape will also change slightly at higher speeds (such as on the motorway) where the level of both lights will adjust slightly upwards to extend the range of the lights. There is also a different beam shape that will activate when the rain sensor detects rain. Congratulations - you now have completely safe and legal retrofitted xenon headlights which will pass MOT! Ps. massive thanks to @langers2k for the immense amount of help he gave me at almost every step of the way, including doing the adaptations to my wiring loom as I am colourblind and had trouble with it! I'm certain I would not have been successful with this conversion without all of his advice

Removing the DPF is an MOT fail in the UK.

00816 refers to the G250 sensor, This most likely needs replacing.

Made emblem/signage changes on my sportline karoq: Bought from superskoda.com - unfortunately front badge isnt a perfect fit (even tho I had it installed in detailing shop) Either way, much better looking than standard skoda emblems