robt100

Did you ever make a decision on this one?? As a sim racing update, got an invitation to a one off race with a £10k prize pool the other day, sadly the entry fee was beyond what I had on me at the time otherwise it might have been a nice paycheck.... But on similar lines, I've now started working for a company that creates setups for various sims as one of their engineers, so now im getting paid to faff about with cars in games

Talking of classics, anyone want a Capri with a 24v cosworth V6 in it? Recently restored, yours for 10k as I need it for buying a house

Low mileage and owners you might make an investment on it. like this crazy price on a saxo VTS the other week For just using as a daily, easy to pick up a cheap bargain. Though I've not known anyone who has had a 306 without some bad eletrical issues. Picked myself up a toyota corolla recently as a stop-gap. 1998 3-door hatch 1.3GS, 3 owners from new, 95k on the clock..... £450. So the bargains are out there!

Well if you have any more questions then just ask. Been simracing for 20 years 😬 Had about 4 different wheels, though nothing upmarket (I don't have that budget!) but know people who have, so can give some advice based on experience

I'd advise against it to be honest. First of all the wheel itself is only £60 new, so the price on ebay even with the stand isnt really a great deal. Second, there is no force feedback, only 'vibration motors'. So the experience would probably be very lacklustre. As a general rule, most people would consider the Logitech G25/27/29 as the bare minimum budget wheel and it goes up from there (Direct-drive wheels for £1,500+). It might be worth keeping an eye on some simracing forums (RaceDepartment for example) in their for sale section for people who are upgrading selling off their old stuff. Something like a Thurstmaster T150 may also do the trick, probably a similar level to a logitech G25/27 but PS compatable (See ebay item 275287309558 as an idea) and has force feeback. Or one with some upgraded pedals (which are worth £100 alone) at item number 394038064808. Or if you are reading this before 7pm today, 0 bids on this bargain.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115356753239?hash=item1adbcc5d57:g:YqIAAOSw~dtiXX~4

I think the transit thing was originally just a ford thing in general as back in the 80s they had I think, 4 different cuts for the keys and that was it. I have a replacement lock on the boot of my Capri, which also means I now have 2 of the 4 key options, and with some (consented) testing, its amazing how many old fords I could drive away from a classic car show

Looks great! I assume the CPU cooler cant be rotated 90 degrees to keep the airflow in one direction? Might be taking in a lungfull of 3060ti exhaust fan like that, though if temps are fine its no problem.

You lucky things up north. When I was down in essex I was looking at £2.5k+ for a policy on any car back in the late 2000's. Only dropped below £1k after about 3-4 years😬

https://www.rtecshop.co.uk/eibach-pro-kit-lowering-springs-for-skoda-octavia-ii-1z5-station-wagon/prod_1502802.html I'd suggest the Eibach kit, its only 30mm lowered off standard suspension and has a progressive rate, had them on my octy along with the Bilstein B4 shocks and used to carry a full boot everywhere without any rear sag. Compliant at normal speeds, nice and stiff/taught at higher load cornering situations. Sadly all spring kits come as a full 4 wheel kit, unless you find someone selling 2nd hand or breaking a car I think all 4 is the only option

By Variable rate do you mean progressive springs or adjustable?

The WHEA bit suggests its a Hardware rather than a software issue. But, just incase, try this (instructions copied from a website) click the Start button and type "cmd" into the search bar. select Command Prompt (Admin) or CMD but run as administrator. Into the command prompt, type in (or copy&paste it): sfc /scannow This should do an integrity check of the system. The other thing to try is a harddrive/ssd check.https://www.windowscentral.com/how-check-if-hard-drive-failing-smart-windows-10Eas The easiest way to do it on that list is using the performance monitor, as this is more visual rather than typing code. See what it comes back with from both of those.

Now we just have to wait until some of the bulbs blow and one of the exits magically dissappears!

Its getting more common recently. I even had to do this as a named driver on a large group policy someone has for his 10+ cars, im only down as a driver maybe 5 days a year

From what I've read before, the NCB is usually valid for 2 years of 'non-use'. Then you loose the lot So as long as you plan on getting another car before October 2023 you should be ok. If what she says is true, I'd definitely want it in writing!

For now, yes, stick with Win 10. I don't think the issue is as bad with the CPU you have, but best to play it safe till it is resolved. As usual with windows, it alternates good-bad-good-bad with its releases, Win 7 was good, Win 8 was bad, win 10 good, so win 11....well, you can see the pattern

Given the username I think you'll be fine, but if you have an AMD system i'd advise not "upgrading". Win 11 scheduler has been 'aided' in its development by Intel, also known as intel up to their old tricks again. Currently slows AMD systems down between 15% and 80% (!) vs Windows 10.

Used our 1Z 1.9PD estate for a trip from the UK down throuhg Germany, Austria and into Switzerland. Didn't need to worry about reliability at all. Just stuck the crusie control on and away we went. First tank from getting off the Ferry in France down to Southern Germany via Frankfurt averaged 62mpg (avg 90mph on the un-restricted parts of the autobahn). Would quite happily do it again. Did 180k in the car (260k on the clock total) myself and never had a breakdown.

Welcome Mike! Which part of Madeira are you based in? Had a few holidays around Calheta and travelled the island.

Technically if you have cleaned it well enough, a rinse with a watering can of pure should mean you can just walk away and it'll dry clear. Though if you have very clean microfibres it would help to collect any pooling water. As the pure is just hydrogren and oxygen and no particles, so nothing to make water marks, but that all depends on what is left on the car... If you're using a two bucket method, you could just use pure water in that too which would lower the chance of marks. I'd definitely recommend trying to get the water from a 'pure water' window cleaner though, cost wise 25 litres would be 80p-£1 and they can prove the purity beforehand If just for a rinse, 25L should probably do at least 2 washes of the car. If you soap, then rinse off with pure, or maybe a quick rinse with tap then straight to pur depending on how soapy its been.

It can be produced, but it costs a lot to set up. Your best bet would be to find a local window cleaner using a pole who may be able to sell you some. You take tap water, run it through a filter to get rid of any sediment, then through a carbon filter to remove the Chlorine. Then it is put through a reverse osmosis membrane (similar to the kinda thing they use on space stations to turn urine back into drinking water). then 40% of the water that goes in comes out 'clean' at around 10-30 particles per million depending on your input purity. Then that is put through a de-ionizing resin to bring it down to 0PPM a.k.a De-ionized water. As you can probably tell by the explanation, its not cheap to get started. And for personal use on a car, much better just to get from a local windy https://lincswindowcleaning.co.uk/100-purified-water-in-lincoln these guys might be worth a shout as they are in your county and sell the water separate at a decent price.

The only way I've found if you dont want to run around frantically drying is to use de-ionised water for the rinse. Cost prohibitive for most, but thankfully I have to make it for window cleaning, so I usually have a few hundred litres laying about I can use

View Advert 2000 Mazda MX-5 1.6 - £950 ono Up for sale is our W reg 1.6 Mazda MX-5. It has just under 97k on the clock, a partially stamped service history (the previous owner did their own servicing from that point on), and MOT till 14th October, so plenty of time to enjoy the rest of the summer. It has been very reliable and never let us down, starts first time every time. The good bits: Recent service including leads and plugs. Goes well, sounds great due to the K&N typhoon induction kit and sports exhaust, nothing loud, just, sporty Recently had rear calipers replaced with new pads. Top down motoring for the summer The only way the prices are going for these is up, get them while you can (this is from me, who bought a Capri back in 2007 for £750) It also has a very decent looking aftermarket stereo, well SWMBO approves of it anyway! A typical MX-5 on the road The bad bits: It's a typical MX-5.....so there is a little corrosion coming through on the rear arches, a tiny patch on the boot, and a little on one front wing. But nothing worse than I've seen on these things advertised at £1,500-£2000 on Autotrader and the like. Wheel alignment needs doing, front O/S tyre has worn on the edge and will need replacing, though it is a ditchfinder special, so it might be more down to that than anything else! Slight wear to the drivers seat as seen in the images, but no rips or tears. Oh, and the arm rest/cubby lid (common faliure) has been secured on its hinge with some very strong tape, seems to work as good as any other repair I've seen! Being a 1.6 it isn't the fastest thing in the world, but it sounds and feels pretty quick. And on a run we managed 38mpg on a tank, so pretty frugal for those long summer trips. SWMBO has put me in the dog house for selling it, and she is already saving up for another one! The main reason for selling is twofold, firstly, we need something a bit more practical now lockdown is over, as we have moved 150miles away from our old address we need a car we can actually fit people in when going out places, rather than making them DRIVE US round all the time. So, I've done the man maths and bought a Jaguar S-type! The second reason for selling is slightly more 'personal'. I'm a big petrolhead, but after chatting to a 'non-car friend' found out that in the 15years we have both been driving he has experienced 14 different cars from different makes/marques and I've had.............3, one of which was my first car (that I still own) and the other two being a Fabia diesel estate, and an Octavia diesel estate. So decided to change cars every 6-12 months now that most of my driving is done in the work van, so that I can experience as many cars as possible before the government kill combustion engines. We are located near Worksop/Sheffield. Happy for anyone to take a look/test drive if they are interested. Price is set low at £950 as we need to sell this month and there are a few things that will most likely need doing for the MOT (Though apart from the tyre, thats pure guesswork!). Even if it needed £600 of work for the MOT, at this price you would be better off than buying one for £1500 and probably in better condition by the time the work is done. I also spoke to local MX-5 specialists MX-5 City, they quoted a full restoration at under £5k, which is a lot less than the trailer-queen low mileage ones floating about at the moment for sale. Happy to entertain offers for her too. Thanks Rob Advertiser robt100 Date 03/08/21 Price £950 Category Cars for Sale

could an alternative option be to zip/winrar the file and have that passworded, so that you can't access/unzip without the password?

Sadly this is my current dilemma. Got a Ford Capri with a 2.9 Cosworth conversion, it was/is my first car and I've had it since 2007! But, sadly, I've not had any time to use it, and the council garage it is in is NOT water-tight. With it having been restored 3 years ago I can't bare to see it all go to waste rotting in a damp garage, so it's going to have to go I dont want to, but it would kill 2 birds in one stone, if not 3. Whilst I'm 'detached' from the car a bit more emotionally as I haven't driven it during lockdown I think its best it goes quick. So if anyone wants a 220bhp Capri valued at over £20k on the insurance......its up for £16.5k (oh, and thats car no.3! Also have a caddy van and a mk2 MX-5, which will also be going this year)

Yeah thats one big plus with the omega titan rig, its rock solid on the brakes, made a huge difference for me. The other plus is the previous owner replaced the feet with braked casters, so I can wheel it out of the way into a corner when its not being used. New they are currently up for £409, and no problems with having to pay extra fees from EU as they are UK based