KenONeill

The strip looks a bit mangled, roughly in line with the "door locked" LED.

With what size front discs?

Put away the parts cannon, and get the fault codes read by someone competent.

Or just old age; I've known very few plastic impeller water pumps make it past 1.5 cambelt lives.

Dunno. What I do know is that, if the head is flat, you must have had head lift. You can reuse that head, but it would be advisable to obtain and use a set of PD150 head bolts to prevent recurrence of the lift.

Well, if we're going that way (which I do know a little about) Weber 40DCOE, correct jets (don't know these) and an "up and over" intake manifold (puts the carb on the cold side of the engine) with a 3:1 exhaust manifold (presumes Siamese centre port head) and you'll be looking at 110bhp with a "safe" limit at 6_800rpm. You can get more with twin 40s, but that's heading for a "grenade engine".

Yes, literally.

My 2p:- Have a hygrometer check of brake fluid done, Don't waste your money on snake o fuel "treatment". Can you guess what I think of Main Stealer upselling?

Changing an entire EMS is a known thing; see Emerald Systems and/or Megasquirt for example.

I don't think so, but an entire 1.6 transaxle will fit as long as you have the Felicia mounts as well as the original Golf/Polo ones.

Have you relubricated the spindles for the wiper linkage?

Yes, the usual sequence is:- Remove driver from car Replace car with one having Climatronic Install driver in new car.

It's not a conventional short, since that would either blow the fuse or leave the wiper running non stop. It's probably a CANBus error on that circuit (and no I don't know how to trace those).

Engine Management Light?

Big hint #2 - You (should) have 2 lights on on each side when you select main beam, one plasma discharge unit and 1 halogen bulb.

Easy peasy Japanesey - The (in this case RH) halogen bulb lights up. Switch the headlights on, set main beam, then walk to the front of the car and look.

It's a sealed system, so unless it continues dropping rather than just dropping to a position such that "Min <= Level <= Max" and staying there I'd say situation normal.

Guessing this is Henry's? If so, then A for Audi charged half the labour rate the last time I was there, and would be more amenable to supplying pattern parts.

IIRC Kwik{censored} have a "so much colder or it's free" policy as well.

That is not what the OP said; he said it was working normally 2 days ago.

Can't see why; airbags normally only activate if the relevant seat(s) are occupied. Having said that, the airbag light is a latching warning light, and needs specialist software and/or a new module to deactivate anyway.

@Phil82 - As @ApertureS says above, it's a cast iron part, and that's perfectly normal.

Totally agree, except that it's not Just Coarsers but every FWD V@&xh@11 I've driven except a mark 1 Astra.

Stop shouting!

OK, start by checking the fan fuses, then the Climate controls (with VCDS or OBD-II).