Ecomatt

I use halfords screenwash and it is good stuff.

£150 sounds very cheap for a remap. If it is that I would steer well clear and go to a reputable mapper. I wouldn't waste money on drilled and vented disks. They dont really offer any better braking and usually you get small cracks around the drilled section after a while. You would do better upgrading the calipers to some 4 pot brembos.

For me. Green calipers like in the original VRS

Surging could be a slightly sticky egr valve or sticky actuator rod on the turbocharger.

You cannot beat a remap. The tuning boxes only alter the parameters the ecu reads. As in the Darkside video they dont do a very good job and can actually cause your car more harm than good. Equally a poorly written remap can aswell. You would be best to stick to a reputable firm with evidence to back up the quoted power and reliablity of the map. Most places now also offer payment plans so you can spend a bit more and pay over 12 months or so, making ut more accessible and affordable.

I always use quantum in my Skodas and never had an issue with oil consumption.

Has the brake fluid been changed recently as that might be part of the issue. The standard brakes should be more than upto the job of stopping the car.

It was that but I think VAG got rid of that option from 2018 onwards.

Dont forget that although the tips may not be showing signs of wear. The cores can degrade as they are mainly copper. I changed my plugs every service for what they cost.

Push and hold down the power button on the radio until it resets itself. That might work.

It is located in the braking control unit. The standard setting on my diesel VRS 184 was set to strong. I tried normal and now deactivated. From what I can gather by reading on other forums, it is a form of traction control designed to stop wheel hop by reducing power and the use of the brakes. What I have noticed is since turning it off the throttle is sharper and not as laggy. There used to be a delay in pick up on my dsg box setting off, but now it sets off easily and more like a manual would. I know that on some 2018 Golf R the option to turn it off is not available, as I think they got rid of it as a function. I am not sure if it still on the Octavias. I used obdeleven to deactivate it so not sure what you would do to deactivate it on vcds.

I have the Nextbase 522gw camera and it uses a mini usb power lead. I just use the Nextbase rear module plugged into the side for rearward recording.

The injectors should be easy to remove for a garage. It might even be something simple as a new injector seal needed.

Sounds like you have a leak in a vac pipe somewhere as that can lead to running issues. It also can be leaking injectors or exhaust system/lambda sensor. Skoda should be able to see what values are being given running it on their diagnostics. However the people operating the diagnostic machines are normally trained monkeys.

I recently deactivated the starting vibration reduction setting via obdeleven. This has had a positive effect on both the throttle and gear change on the DSG. Basically all the setting does is work like traction control on the throttle input. With it switched off the throttle pedal acts more like a wired throttle of old. This in effect helps the gearbox decide what gear you need quicker, as there is no lag in the throttle response. The whole car is more responsive to inputs both up and down the gears. It doesn't hunt around like it did before trying to find the right gear.

You can use the app function to code it for you on obd11.

They are the same.

I just stick with normal and occasionally put the box into sport if I need to overtake or put it into manual mode. I very rarely put it into sport as the revs hang on to high for my liking.

Personally I would change the air filter either every 10,000 miles or 12 months. The fuel filter I would do every 20,000 miles given its a diesel.

I use OBDELEVEN and have used it to do the long coding with no issues. You have to purchase the pro version or above to enable long coding. Also make sure to do a full backup of all control units before making any changes.

You are comparing the Octavia to two very small cars with wheels at each corner and less weight. I have the diesel VRS and it is somewhat more nose heavy than the TSi version. To date I have no issue with the handling on the road as standard. Yes you get a little lean when cornering but that helps generate grip. You can spend thousands trying to improve the handling and only get minimal improvement. I would just stick with some lowering springs and uprate the ARB to clubsport ones. That will see an improvement but save you money aswell. Also I would check the tracking on the car as that can affect the handling.

If the system is hanging fine and doesn't sway about, I genuinely would not bother.

I have no experience of stage 3 but most people on here have said that stage 1 is about right for the Octavia. Stage 2 induces extra wheelspin and isnt that much quicker. If it was an R or S3 etc with 4wd then no real issue pitting the power down in all weathers. Not sure what figures stage 3 puts out but I would be questioning reliability over useability. Also how long you want to keep the car plus re sale value. Also if the car is on HP or PCP then make sure you ask the lender if you can modify it. If they find out it has been modified they may cancel the finance and request full payment. If the car is purchased cash or loan then no issue as the car is legally yours.

One of the pitfalls of some aftermarket exhausts. However once it has been driven a while and sooted up on the inside, the harshness usually goes away. The last performance exhaust I had was made by BCS and that neither vibrated or droned. Not sure how they managed it but it was a piece of art to look at.

I would scan the car with either vcds or obdeleven as that will tell you what is going on.