D.FYLAKTOS

Maybe the Abdel Fattah Saeed Hussein Khalil el-Sisi does not allow it as the Saudi do too.

The temperature radiator fan switches have scales at 5 °C Which thermo switch says on that is for 88C only? Take a look some Mahle: https://www.euspares.co.uk/manufacturer/mahle-original/temperature-switch-radiator-fan-10434 all of them have Switch-on point and Shut-off Point [°C]

Welding is the rule here in Greece for decades, i have changed 2 Cats plus 2 silencers-tail pipes same way (welding) and i didn't had that problem of over burned look Keep in mind that i didn't push them but a take my time for some hundreds of kilometres. Tape and patches are for small holes only.

This will make your radiator turn on-off properly without the risk of overheating. The others are OK? coolant,radiator fan,thermostat sensor,no leak from hoses,the cap from expansion tank is proper fitting etc. Take a look at the photos in a thread of mine, i had a similar problem.

Who said that? Here in Greece we have hot cliamate too and the Skoda mechanics which had Felicia some years ego suggest 80-85C and even 75-80C thermo-switch I have use all the scales from 70 till 90C and i have found that the 80-85 is more suitable. I don't know if you can find thermostat 80C for Felicia but IF ALL the others (coolant,radiator,thermostat sensor,no leak from hose,the cap from expansion tank is proper fitting) a 88C thermostat as we have here can do the job perfectly.

When you put new brake disks for example the seller and the mechanic will advise you to ''take it easy on the start" the same applies to many metals that we use as i said before. You should have made at least 200 kilometres in low speed at green zone without high rpm to ''push things more" A journey at high steady speed especially those hot days in Greece it wrong as a break-in period, the metal of the Cat has no chance to cool down that's why externally looks like this. Now it's done and you can not change anything. You Cat looks over burned outside but this doesn't mean that it has been destroyed inside otherwise you should notice it plus the emission test would failed. Especially the second you can see it with your eyes in a quick test to a local repair-shop, after few hundreds of Kms take a measure as a reassurance and the numbers will tell you the truth.

Update: today i tried to make a small modification, i have found a new paper filter from another car and tried to fit it inside my Felicia's case This filter protects from Pollen, if the experiment was successful i would use an activated carbon filter because is better. Since of course does not fit properly i had to cut it but it isn't so strong to stay in his position so i added a layer of kitchen hood filter as a "reinforcement" plus to seal it better in the sides. The results is funny,not good looking but at least works since i have made a small test. If i keep it? NO because looks ''cheapy" and every mechanic which raise the hood will laugh.

Welding is the way for the Catalytic here plus a stamp from the repair-shop so they know the month/year that they put it when it's time for the Guarantee. The break-in wasn't the proper but since it's not a cheap one don't worry, nevertheless ''Kalorizikos". Ceramic means torque in the low-middle rpm Metallic means some more power in the high rpm but ''you pay the price" in the middle rpm.

120 euro (the fitting included) is a realistic price for a good Ceramic Catalytic for Felicia, avoid the cheap of 80-90 euro. The break in period means time and patience, it's not ''once and done" no matter if it's knife-saucepan-rifle-motor-pistol etc. I am not an expert but i think you push it too fast and over burned a little bit,even the used Catalytic won't look like this. For sure you will have notice in the market the ''over burned" by the manufacturer tail-pipe in some exhausts: Your Cat has the same ''bad look" now but don't worry it will last for many tenths of thousand kilometres.

I have replaced my factory Ceramic Catalytic converter with a Metallic one many years ego and recently i have returner to a new Ceramic No smell or serious discolouration, maybe because you ''push it" to hard and had no ''break-in" period? Was an expensive (brand name) ?

This only applies for taxi drivers (petrol), in cities with heavy traffic no one with gasoline car passes the green zone simply because there is no ''road in front of him" to do it 1st,2nd maybe 3rd gear for few seconds only and then you have red light or traffic due to stop sign or someone is trying to park etc. Those situations are gas-killers and if there are some other causes (dirty MAP-filter,not proper spark plugs or wrong valve adjustment etc) the moving in green zone won't help you at all. I read somewhere that 45 kg of extra trunk weight means at least 1-2% extra fuel consumption, i thought about it and i tried to make some corrections. Recently i discover that i am carrying an extra weight of 30 Kg (!) on the trunk, my 2 bags were full or tools because i make many repairs while the car is parked (i haven't my own garage) I was afraid that maybe i will need something so i was adding tools ''just in case", the result was that i was carrying too much weight and this made things on fuel consumption much worst. Below is an older example:

Wait for the new test (city traffic) the results for sure would be different. I had 7,1-7,3lt / 100 Km consumption with hard sport driving on mountain roads reaching many times the 5500 rpm red notch. As for the Mocoll additive, i saw on the highway coolant temperature 70-80 'C maximum ever when i reached the 5500 rpm limit some times later on traffic i saw 82 'C and the needle never pass this, in the past (No Mocool) i have seen many times 85 'C on the gauge.

An update: I have wrapped the exhaust manifold with titanium tape so i have a click less temperature inside the engine bay i have removed the U stripes so the hot air can escape now (for long time was trapped inside). Here is the receipt from the gas station, the odometer wrote that time 82,3 km, for sure i can not guarantee that this would be the consumption every time i go on the highway and i have some tests to do inside a city traffic but after all these years this was a very pleasant surprise. The first 2 times i was suspicious but the 3rd time couldn't be a coincidence, after all these changes (plus the new gas station) my Trusty works better on fuel management at least on highways. For the other members i explain the numbers on the receipt: Fuel: Unleaded 95 RON Code: Price: 1,568 euro per litre of gasoline Quantity: 4,4 litres Net value: 5,56 euro Tax: 1,34 euro Total amount: 6,90 euro ............................. Fuels net value: 2,48 euro Taxes and Duties: 4,42 euro

In the past i have done hundreds of measurements of fuel consumption for: traffic, driving on highway (loaded or not), sport driving in mountain (alone or loaded) For driving on national road with steady speed (not pushing on red lines) i had 7,3 lt/100 km, then 7 latter 6,50 and now 5,34 ..but how? New ECU remapping, new MAP sensor, better suspension, new thermostat sensor, fuel injection system cleaned recently, new Lambda sensor, throttle is clean, valves on proper 0,25-0,20 gap, Mocool added on coolant, Champion spark plugs, no extra air inside the airbox. In the past from all of those always something was ''missing" or it was wrong for example i had wrong gap in the valves wrong reference of spark plugs, too much air on the airbox (as i already have shown here) , the MAP was old and dirty, not proper fitting of the pipe that brings air to the throttle, suspension springs in bad condition etc. I fill the tank is a specific way, always in specific gas stations so after all these years from experience i can say (paying some attention to the needle of the fuel tank gauge and the coolant temperature gauge) when something is not right for the gas station's pump or i have pushed the pedal too much. Yesterday the pump stopped at 4,4 litres and the odometer wrote 82,3 km and i did this test in purpose (i was very late for supper and i had some grouchiness), of course if the time was different or the road had too many cars and i had to brake-dowhshift often the results could be a little bit different.The summer holidays are near so i would have a better image because i will travel much more on national road and i will have more measurements to post. I use 95RON with some additives and sometimes 100RON.

June 2021 Update After have done some adjustments and an ECU reset i drove my Felicia on the highway (90% and the other 10% was in normal traffic) today at noon to see the results especially at high rpm. At low-medium rpm i have tested it many times and i was happy with the stock situation. The results were very pleasant for me, first i saw with 4h at 3000 prm to have 100 Km on the speedometer, i saw120 km on the 3500 and 140 at 5500 rpm with 5th i saw my Trusty a little bit better bypassing other cars but i didn't push it over 140 km due to the fear of traffic police. Nevertheless with 5th was better from the previous situation with extra air to the airbox. I was anxious for the fuel consumption but the pump showed 4,4 litres for 82,3 km which means at 100 Km i have 5,34 litres which means more powerful car on the road with less consumption than before ! Keep in mind that i have an ECU-chipped, full exhaust system and BMC filter plus some weight more from insulation (whole car) and bigger tyres/rims. Those results are amazing from my Trusty, i couldn't achieve them without your advises, thank you guys.

Todo está bien. OK, thank you !

Hola mi amigo, como estas? Have you ever manage to see the temperature i Celsius of your coolant except the gauge on the panel? Have you installed another gauge or take measures via a laptop or a smartphone application?

I had for few months those sealing strips I thought a small inox fan could help a little bit. Mocool (and relative products as Royal Purple-Amsoil-Red Line-Dei etc) suppose do this: https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.net/images/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/137/MoCool_(GB).pdf?1524069647 I have wrapped my exhaust manifold but the custom exhaust maker told me do don't wrap the inlet because i am going to face problem on the hot summer days because it could not cool down normally. Thus i ordered some materials to make a heat shield for the inlet. I have a link above of what i have done in the past. The gap on my Felicia (which is an old car) was enough to let some dust come in (we have african dust here plus some from many road constructions) Yes i had some noise reduction but i could felt the air from the fan pushed to the sides and i had a tiny amount of bad smell coming in. No hot air from the fan was escaping from the sides of the bonnet due to those strips but now that i have removed them everything is OK.

I read every post and i give importance especially if it is well-intentioned and written in a non-provocative way. Drilling-cutting the bonnet is out of question, raising the back also (rain, car washing machine) is a ''No Go'' so i removed those stripes to help the hot air come out plus i tried to ''reinforce'' my coolant adding some Mocool. I wonder if an inox small fan (with a switch on the dashboard with relay-fuse) could help pushing air to left-right so would extract quicker or this is just a fantasy. I also ordered embossed aluminum sheet plus a high temperature resist (it's self adhensive in the back) aluminum sheet to make a shield for my inlet manifold. Wrapping with titanium tape will cause me problems in the hot days of summer because this will non let the inlet to cool down because there would be no air circulation.

Update: I have done a mistake in the past, i was ''sealed" the sides of the hood with U shape self-adhesive stripes (supposed to reduce the noise and stop the dust coming in) but i found that this brought smells from engine bay inside the cabin plus anytime was exiting the car i felt more air from the fan to comes in my feet. A mechanic which is a specialist on windscreens and relative matters pointed to me that. I removed them and my first impressions are: the air stopped to comes in my feet while i am exiting from the car, the sides of the hood are much hotter than before because the air escapes through them and no smells on the engine bay. Now the things are as before, yes the dust and the noise returned but as the engine bay ''exhales" better i have to make a compromise.

Till now good news my friend, i will make try to go to the National Road to see how it works on the high rpm. Next step: make the engine bay to ''exhale" better.

1) Viva Chile (for sure you will know some things for us the Greeks here) 2) Congratulations for your Fabia and keep up the good work 3) Here in Greece we have hot climate also that's why i wanted to use an additive to my coolant as Mocool (others are Wetter Water, Dei, Royal Purple, Amsoil etc) to help it cool faster. Distilled water + Mocool does not help at all in the winter plus i doubt about the lubrication of the pump.

Heat wrap is popular here at least for 20 years ego (i already have titanium wrap in my exhaust) Ceramic coat even Cryogenic treatment can be done here but the cost is high so it's a solution for ''racing guys'' with Evo,WRX etc. As for the record i have removed that extra pipe from the grille and now the airbox is taking air only from the factory one First impressions? Very good response at low-medium rpm, i will make a test at high rpm the next days.

1) OK i will remove that pipe and leave the stock 2) I have i mind to use a plastic accessory from small vacuum it's the Upholstery Tool, for sure it's not something great but i think will help ''collect'' more air that the simple plastic pipe only My thought is to drive that pipe close to the Inlet Manifold to help cooling. Couple of years ago i visited a well know repair-shop to clean my injectors (as a maintenance there was no problem) and the owner which was a racing driver in his youth told me: ''separate the Inlet manifold from the heat of the Exhaust manifold and you will have a better car" (he meant the performance) so my next project is a metal sheet (inox) as a shield from the Exhaust. 3) How? I don't want to start modifying engine block,camshaft etc, it's too expensive and risky job for this old motor.