D.FYLAKTOS

I said it but due to a double post-edit that phrase was lost. Not that has been clarified i am asking you straight: Do you make valve adjustment ''Every 12 months, regardless of mileage" of ''after 15000 Km" no matter the time? I do it every 2,5 years or so (7500 Km i change oil plus filter) and i want to know what other Felicia 1.3 owners do. I can not make it more clear than this.

I read and comment having in my mind that, Yoss can make the correction. You are not some kind of ''God" which has the right to judge anyone,you are just a common mortal guy. As for your suggestion a have an answer "Go and fetch me a banana" and now we have a draw.

Obviously you didn't get my point, i didn't post for the conversion of miles to Km but for that: [quote]Haynes Manual wrote about checking and adjusting the valves ''Every 12 months, regardless of mileage" Does anyone Felicia owner here does it annually? [/quote] Everything i post has a meaning for me and it's done in purpose.

Since the thread is not Locked we can freely post here without asking for permission.

I will post photos soon.

8030 days ago Haynes Manual wrote about checking and adjusting the valves ''Every 12 months, regardless of mileage" but in Greece nobody does this. Does anyone Felicia owner here does it annually?

In Felicia the engine is not 100% VW ,except the metal even some other things as sensors-button starter are CZ.

After a short and uhhappy "travel" with NGK i returned back to the old-reliable-beloved Platinum Champion RC89PYC.

Eibach 3mm lowering springs, i had them on for years. Some shock absorbers can work together with those springs, others do not. Koni Yellow out of production? I think not.

Eibach springs are for 3mm lowering, they work good with Red Koni but with Yellow the car will be very stiff and you may need new tooth fillings. Lowering the car means you have to be extremely careful when you are trying to "climb" on the sidewalk or entering-exiting a garage.

Keep in mind that may say to you that you will need a new pulley too.

https://www.laurent-motors.com/en/28-turbo-kit-skoda

Me, i have a Goodridge made kit and i am very happy with it. Especially on mountain route after some time (when your brakes are hot) you will feel the difference compared with the stock hoses. Plus you have an extra protection from the steel blendage.

You should avoid VIKA,it's a very cheap made products brand. Did you done a check via your OBD port recently? Your throttle is clean? Did you remove the panel?

Any good news?

Haynes Manual says every 15000 Km.

Patrol Line car alarm some models have a switch key too. https://www.jzaballero.org/images/HPS 759.jpg

If i had the same problem first thing i would remove the alarm fuse and his plug for a minute and after i put them as as they was i would turn the ignition key to ON. I would consider this as an ''alarm reset" but if the problem was occur again then i would ask for an electricians advise because something could go wrong with the alarm's wiring,a short circuit,moisture,pins with dirt etc . A friend of mine had a similar problem: no matter if he was on the traffic light or on the road when his elbow was pushing a little bit the door panel the central lock was activated as he was pushing the driver's safety pin down. He didn't do anything to fix it but now he knows the cause so if this incident happens he knows the reason and does not get in panic.

Buying from ebay or e-store used ECU's it's a mega-risk, usually have some problems that's why many times are cheap. The best way is to go to a programmer,he knows where to buy and he has some ''guarantee" from the suppliers that if something goes wrong he will replace it with no cost from you. The programmer later can do his ''magic" and the Felicia will cooperate with the new ECU with no problem with the immobiliser.

I have faced a similar problem recentry the pins weren't in such a bad situations as yours but i use a WD-40 Contact Cleaner and a tooth brush to completely clean them. Can happen to any sensor, thus we must take of them.

This happens to other models with lot of HP but due to the tax policy of some countries the brands claim a little bit lower so there is no problem with the tax scale. On dynamometer it's not unusual a difference of 4% between the same car models (stock, same year). Many times on ''Dyno days' same models (stock) have a difference in HP between them and the owners tease each other. In Greece the Felicia (stock) on Dynojet 248-E shown: 65,8 Hp/5500 Rpm and 10,25 Kgm/3950 Rpm

1300cc Felicia has 48Kw and 50Kw editions which means 64PS and 67PS if Felicia 1300cc had 77bHp (78 PS) then he could beat on the road the 1400cc of his era (Seat Ibiza, VW Polo etc) but...unfortunately this could be only a dream.

Except the ECU programme i have a gauze BMC filter, NGK spark plugs and a custom exhaust (manifold,resonator,muffler) plus metallic catalytic converter. I done al these at 2003,the cost that era would be different than today because the prices have changed and it's easiest to buy spare parts.

Dynomet 75,6 Hp at 5513 Rpm 10,5 Kgm at 4186 Rpm One correction, reaches the 6100 Rpm and not 6150 as i wrote.

WD-40 as contact cleaner...??? https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/wd-40-as-contact-cleaner.36407/ Contact Cleaners, Protectors & Enhancers for Electronics http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/cleaner.htm _______________________________________________