D.FYLAKTOS

From my humble experience the combination of 0.25mm intake and 0.20mm exhaust is a big Winner on the fuel economy sector. I have replaced my metallic catalyst with a ceramic one and i feel that i ''lost" something in the high rpm but i ''won'' something in the low ones and most of all the fuel consumption was much lower. With the 0.20mm intake / 0.25mm exhaust and the 0.25mm all around i get something on high rpm but i paid it in the gas station more than it's worthed. I had the 0.25mm intake and 0.20mm exhaust for many years and after the 2 tests i will return to that combination as long as i can drive my Trusty.

The price is not the same, i wonder what is the difference among them?

I mean 5000-6000 rpm, if you "work" a Felicia intensive at this range (for example mountain road with no traffic) which oil is best? Semisynthetic or synthetic?

Thank you, i was confused also by the non-ABS Brembo: M 85035 is 22,2 (ATE brake system) https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/brembo-1660742.html but M 85042 is also 22,2 https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/brembo-1660749.html is worth to by the 1st over the 2nd?

While serching to replace the master cylinder pump on my non-Abs Felicia i was confused by the diameter that i have found in some brands (as i read in the e-store's description) TRW: 22,2 mm Brembo: 22,2 mm ...... and ATE: 23,8 mm and i wonder why is that? How the axon from ATE will fit? I something wrong with the list of the e-store? Accordind to the description that ATE covers the Skoda 6U0 698 019 specification. https://kritosparts.gr/Part/ANTLIA-FRENON-6U0698019/e0036U0698019 Can somebody help me?

Yes you are right but even with those options does not tell you much about it I was really disappointed with that software, i didn't learn anything with it.

In the begging on the search you don't have the 6U1 Felicia 1.3 option?

To be honest i regret that i bought the OBD11, doesn't gave me something ''extra" or helped me in something till now I was very-very disappointed that i can not have those fancy gauges in my smartphone. The only positive is that IF i am in the country with no VW-Skoda repair shop close to me and IF i have a sensor fault then IF i had it with me will erase the fault.

It's the Elsawin?

Specific on that level of high rpm (for that car because for a Honda is ''middle rpm") the synthetic oil is better than a semi-synthetic?

Here is the Menu of OBD11 for the Felicia. When i tried to get inside for more details i saw this: I try for 2nd time and i had the same results. As for curiosity while the unit was attached i turn on the ignition but the car immediately started to idle badly so i turn it off. I don't know if there is a way to make some adjustments but i am not optimistic compared to a laptop-Vcds.

No one should have big expectations from a 1300cc Naturally Aspirated motor but depends from the road conditions. Here in Greece we don't have 9 line highways as other countries,we have 3 line and the speed limit is 130 Km, if you run more than this limit you have a 350 € ticket plus you lose your driving license for 60 days. That's why i have tested my real top speed of my Felicia, the days which i was running with 210 Km passing very close to cars are over permanently. With 5th gear i have at 3500rpm the speed of 100Km and many times while moving on the right or in the middle line is enough to make an overtaking If it's needed to do something quick i will shift to the 4th but i don't risk to stay long time on the left line because this is for the ''fast guys".

My Felicia has 140km speed at 5500rpm with 4th gear which means the 5th has to give some more IF i had a 6th then it could be an ''overdrive" for highways like Autobahn.

I did it (i transfer the front motors in the back doors) before 18 years ago and still working.

The manufacturer of OBD11 should show some interest for us because we the Felicians don't have those fancy gauges in our smartphone as the others have. I haven't met yet a repair shop with OBD11 device ans a smartphone instead of a laptop and Vcds. I tested today mine, i will post some screenshots but you will be disappointed as i did.

I have it and run few scans, it's nothing fancy and i don't think you can do a lot of things with that. I will post some screenshots to help you but i think i would be better to go to a programmer after setting a new ECU.

If the thermostat housing had problem the leak of coolant would be visible. It's very common problem to Felicia, you can replace the thermostat even by yourself, buy the gasket too to be safe because the old maybe will be damaged. If you buy a VIKA yes you may have a problem after a while but i don't see the problem to buy and install a Calorstat or a Valeo, all of us install after market parts. New coolant, volatilization and you are good to go.

This i meant before (for the previous owner) but i didn't wanted to say it clearly as you did. I wouldn't buy an ECU which looks like this: because many programmers take the responsibility to find the proper ECU for you plus some guarantee so if something happens will replace it for free. If the driver buy a cheap ECU from internet for 40-50 euro and looks like the one above then the risk is huge.

The label of VIn was gone in purspose from previous owner In Greece if you get caught with a car without VIN label you are in serious trouble. I can not guarantee a ''plug and play'' but from my experience a programmer can make it easily work even with the stock immobilizer. The problem is to find a second hand ECU in excellent condition and not a cheap one because those have corrosion problems and have been fixed sloppy and sold as a ''bargain'' on the net.

You are the second owner? There is no sticker on the side of the valve cover? No VIN? Many plastic parts on their back side have the date/year pointed with an arrow and keep in mind that if you are the second owner maybe the first has changed the ECU for some reason (the car will work fine if the programmer is good) so don't expect from the ECU sticker to learn many things.

The first combination has to do with higher fuel consumption?

Thank you for the infos ! What are the symptoms if a 136 Felicia has 0.25 all around lets say for 10.000 Km? There will be some consequences? ............................................... When a repair-shop has a good reputation on repairs, runs with Skoda cars in local races and has guys with 30+ years experience on Skoda cars their advice is valuable. These are the guys which suggest for example to change the Felicia radiator switch with another other ''one click lower'' to prevent overheating or gasket problems or have in mind thet the starter solenoid is frail etc.

Some say 0.25mm intake / 0.20mm exhaust and other post for 0.20mm intake / 0.25mm exhaust Today i asked one one of the most famous Skoda repair-shop here and told me 0.25mm all around ! It's a mess.

Here is another relative video. My first concern is the pressure of the fuel in my car if is good, after seeing those videos i feel reassured because i though i had a problem. Next i have the ''Gas pump" test to see if the fuel consumption is less than with those NGK on.

But suddenly with those spark plugs i had fuel consumption problem plus i don't like so much the way they look. Trying to find if there is a problem with my fuel pressure valve if found this an a Czech forum, https://www.skoda-techweb.cz/forum/viewtopic.php?p=616313&sid=06d9a9fbec84d64e8d397cead42110d5#p616313 Here is the translation: Today I connected a new pressure gauge measuring the current value of the pressure between the hose and the bar with the regulator connected. When the key is turned, there is 3.1 bar almost immediately, after switching off the pump relay, the pressure drops to 2.9 bar. With the engine running and the vacuum disconnected, there is 3.1bar, after connecting the vacuum 2.5bar. So, in my opinion, the measurement confirmed that the pressure with the engine stopped is the same as the pressure with the engine running. Video from the measurement with the engine running here: https://vimeo.com/379263375