D.FYLAKTOS

BLUE for 1300cc and NOT a cheap one,you may confused sometimes in the e-parts stores because in the photo shown even with Black or Green ring. With the Yellow ring never worked good for me.

Some guys sell only the LCD screen without the cables-sensors so be careful. They SP-EL have the TM-3 version for the 1.9D model. I wrote it. https://www.sp-el.cz/Palubni-pocitac-APRI-Felicia-BEZ-SNIMACU-d1.htm Stay tuned...

Motul Mocool (G11) https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.net/images/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/137/MoCool_(GB).pdf?1524069647 There are some others from Dei, Lucas, Royal Purple, Red Line.

I also searched on German even Russian stores but i had no success so the''refurbished" TC-6 from SP-EL wan the only solution, they offer a guarantee for their product. Here are 2 videos from other guys, the task is difficult and must be done perfectly because removing the dashboard-switches etc isn't easy and you may brake something and regret it later. My only concern is the average fuel consumption, i already have gauges for temperature-voltage etc.

As we say here ''better late than never" so i bought and installed something that i was looking for years. I didn't bought it from the begging (the local Skoda seller was sell it as an ''extra") and when i asked some years later they answered me ''we have to make a special order, it's too difficult to be installed, does not worth it" etc and the discouraged me. The years were passing but deep inside me i knew that one day i will take it, first searched in ebay and in Polish-Slovakian etc stores and finally i found a Czech brand the SP-EL which provide me with a new one.The price was a little bit high but in those countries 99% don't have credit card or paypal payment but bank transfer which cost a lot due to the commission. The LCD screen is from a CZ brand,the plugs are VW-Audi and he sensor is from SP-EL. They send me a genuine Skoda manual plus some pdf instructions, thank you guys ! In future posts i will show you some pictures from the installation (which was a nightmare) plus some photos while i am on the road.

You broke the rules (again) and you have been embarassed (again). So must i report you now?

If you do not like me put my nickname on your list of enemies and finish the whole matter, I did not ask you for friendship or an opinion about my character. You have destroyed a lot of threads here with your chatter and ironic posts. So let us deal with the problem of Agalalh! This is what we are interested in here ok now? @Agalalh : what's your next step? Did you change any parts? Have you ever tried coolant additives?

Oh yes and it works fine ! One day a mechanic drove my Felicia for a while and when returner back he said ''Your car wan not the proper torque on the low rpm, what you have done? " I told him that i have changed the stock Catalytic with a Metallic one because (yes i have to admit it) i believed the car tuning magazines of that era and now that i have returned back to the Ceramic (and 45mm muffler) i noticed that the noise is lower plus i there is no need to downshift so often as before in mountain roads. Turning back to the factory way or air incoming plus the Ceramic Cat i feel my Felicia much better on the low-medium rpm no matter if it's city driving or national road There is a slightly change on the high rpm but nothing significant, after all i haven't a Honda to turn on 9000 rpm. Another myth is the "custom exhaust manifold" which ''will raise your horsepower" i have seen videos with guys with expensive cars which paid almost a thousand dollars for a custom exhaust manifold and the gain was 4 HP only.

@RicardoM : You are always preaching here when you are always the first which break the rules. I have met guys like you back in the late 80's when i was in the Army and now after 27 years ''On Duty" i know which is the proper way to deal with them. If you don't like mine posts just don't provoke me or put my name on your Enemy list and that's it, End of story. _______________________ So let's move on to more interesting things: I have made some corrections and my problem solved, now i have 82-84 'C before the radiator, so what's your next step? By the way have you ever tried coolant additives?

Keep in mind that after the world common-safe-proper-robust-nice combatant looking welding procedure they apply a paste as it is still hot, this seals the whole project plus some times the guy sprays the welding area with a special high temperature paint if the customers wants it. We are waiting.....

Directly you can't, indirectly you can Pay attention to the radiator switch because he commands the fan, too low scale and the radiator will work continuously, too high scale and the fan will start at 92 or 94 'C Here is an example from my car in the past: No works at it should be.

I have a problem with my Carburetor (Pierburg 2E3) can not find a stable low as graduate moving the (idle jet - primary) but I see that to lay a finger to plug the hole having returns regardless of having the car stabilizes but when I take my finger and Jalone again, that wearing a rubber oring has placed but not to do (a friend has a felicia and change this part and that of the stable is not no way) that happen to this? as I can fix it? encantaaaaaa me the second estapa diaframa the sounds and you suck . clack clack Perdón no soy muy bueno en el ingles (utilizo el google traductor) perdón veo que no puedo darme a entender como yo quiero... no es por que no quiero pero el medio utilizado no es efectivo el traductor no me ayuda!! puedo enviar mensaje personal pero como es un foro full ingles no se quien habla español. no abría problema? ________________________ Would you like to refresh your memory? Did you forgot what and mainly how you were writing few years back? How many orthographic errors plus huge space among the sentences without a reason? There are some dozen post more but i do not have time to deal with this further. As for the record: I have said and i will keep this till my death that i am writing in purpose based on Greek grammar and syntax (by the way Gramamr and Syntax are Greek based words, not from your country) So for us is the Sisi, the Trump, the Bush, the Biden, the Kamala, the Carla, the Queen, the Macron etc.

It's purely a Teleportation (the first part ''Tele" is Greek means ''distance" ,it's written Τηλε in Greek) but i can not reveal further informations, it's highly NASA Classified material. Thus @Thefeliciahacker you can sleep calm at night, whatever has to be done has done and your next car would be a Camaro like this (you Lucky guy....)

Chevy Camaro 780 HP, no problem with the welding procedure and the ''burned" look, works fine.

Maybe the Abdel Fattah Saeed Hussein Khalil el-Sisi does not allow it as the Saudi do too.

The temperature radiator fan switches have scales at 5 °C Which thermo switch says on that is for 88C only? Take a look some Mahle: https://www.euspares.co.uk/manufacturer/mahle-original/temperature-switch-radiator-fan-10434 all of them have Switch-on point and Shut-off Point [°C]

Welding is the rule here in Greece for decades, i have changed 2 Cats plus 2 silencers-tail pipes same way (welding) and i didn't had that problem of over burned look Keep in mind that i didn't push them but a take my time for some hundreds of kilometres. Tape and patches are for small holes only.

This will make your radiator turn on-off properly without the risk of overheating. The others are OK? coolant,radiator fan,thermostat sensor,no leak from hoses,the cap from expansion tank is proper fitting etc. Take a look at the photos in a thread of mine, i had a similar problem.

Who said that? Here in Greece we have hot cliamate too and the Skoda mechanics which had Felicia some years ego suggest 80-85C and even 75-80C thermo-switch I have use all the scales from 70 till 90C and i have found that the 80-85 is more suitable. I don't know if you can find thermostat 80C for Felicia but IF ALL the others (coolant,radiator,thermostat sensor,no leak from hose,the cap from expansion tank is proper fitting) a 88C thermostat as we have here can do the job perfectly.

When you put new brake disks for example the seller and the mechanic will advise you to ''take it easy on the start" the same applies to many metals that we use as i said before. You should have made at least 200 kilometres in low speed at green zone without high rpm to ''push things more" A journey at high steady speed especially those hot days in Greece it wrong as a break-in period, the metal of the Cat has no chance to cool down that's why externally looks like this. Now it's done and you can not change anything. You Cat looks over burned outside but this doesn't mean that it has been destroyed inside otherwise you should notice it plus the emission test would failed. Especially the second you can see it with your eyes in a quick test to a local repair-shop, after few hundreds of Kms take a measure as a reassurance and the numbers will tell you the truth.

Update: today i tried to make a small modification, i have found a new paper filter from another car and tried to fit it inside my Felicia's case This filter protects from Pollen, if the experiment was successful i would use an activated carbon filter because is better. Since of course does not fit properly i had to cut it but it isn't so strong to stay in his position so i added a layer of kitchen hood filter as a "reinforcement" plus to seal it better in the sides. The results is funny,not good looking but at least works since i have made a small test. If i keep it? NO because looks ''cheapy" and every mechanic which raise the hood will laugh.

Welding is the way for the Catalytic here plus a stamp from the repair-shop so they know the month/year that they put it when it's time for the Guarantee. The break-in wasn't the proper but since it's not a cheap one don't worry, nevertheless ''Kalorizikos". Ceramic means torque in the low-middle rpm Metallic means some more power in the high rpm but ''you pay the price" in the middle rpm.

120 euro (the fitting included) is a realistic price for a good Ceramic Catalytic for Felicia, avoid the cheap of 80-90 euro. The break in period means time and patience, it's not ''once and done" no matter if it's knife-saucepan-rifle-motor-pistol etc. I am not an expert but i think you push it too fast and over burned a little bit,even the used Catalytic won't look like this. For sure you will have notice in the market the ''over burned" by the manufacturer tail-pipe in some exhausts: Your Cat has the same ''bad look" now but don't worry it will last for many tenths of thousand kilometres.