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D.FYLAKTOS

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Everything posted by D.FYLAKTOS

  1. Stock car, he drives slowly, no rev up more than 3500, no Sport driving in Mountain Roads, no more speed than 120 km in Highway. I was driving this way (in purpose) only till i reach the ''break-in'' (or ''bedding'' if i rememeber correct) period Km limit as the car was New and went for thw 1st service in the official delaer's repair-shop. When you change engine oil, coolant, transmission oil etc does not remain something inside? Have you the capability to drain 100% the previous? NO.
  2. Here are the indications from the MOT. Keep in mind that the suspension was not in perfect condition, was before the rebuild so the results are not ideal. BRAKES Axis 1: 05.41 Axis 2: 12.00 Performance total: 62.58 Parking brake: 16.12 SHOCK ABSORBERS Axis 1: -0.5 ,Left 85% , Right 85% ,Difference 00.00 Axis 2: (nothing) ,Left 84% , Right 77% , Difference 08.33 After the Koni rebuild an alignement was done before the car exits the repair shop, no weird sounds from suspension-steering at the Mountain Roads, nothing suspicious in the behaviour while turning many times in high rpm.
  3. They misinformed me on the one hand and scared me on the other. It turned out that 15W-50 Mineral was a complete failure ! When i put 10W-40 Synthetic and drove several kilometers to "burn" what was left of the old oil, then the motor changed its behavior. The sound at idle, how quickly the engine warms up from a cold start and fuel consumption are important for me, if these are are not for 1-2 guys...i just don't care. The ENEOS, although at high revs it was not like the Amsoil, on the other hand achieved a fuel consumption record and I have many photos as proof. Why don't you use 20W-60?
  4. WooHoo. 🤩 The ENEOS 10W-40 sounds like a real Synthetic oil, no vibrations and no ''old tractor-cement mixer'' sound in idle. PLUS in National Highway and in Mountain Roads broke all the fuel consumption records or previous oils (of course i didn't take measures from the miserable-useless 15W-50), photos soon.
  5. Nor the MOT tester, nor 2 mechanics that made a check, even the official Koni service have found anything. I don't hear or feel anything wrong. @Thefeliciahacker in the backyard is lifting the car and squeezes homself beneath it to check everything so says he knows better and i have a problem. Tomorrow i will post the MOT results, he can read and understand better the indications.
  6. The 5W-40 was before the 15W-50 and now i have 10W-40 Synthetic. With this i beat my record in fuel consumption and coolant temperature and i have many photos to prove it. The oil pressure gauge is removed many years ago, i still have the custom adaptor but i don't know if i will buy another 52mm gauge since the majority are chinese made.
  7. Not in this life 15W-50 again from me. By the way the Cold Starts with ENEOS changed,oh yes, no more "old tractor noise", i will post new video soon plus photos from fuel consumption.
  8. I will look further for Mannol Classic 10W-40.
  9. We work with what we have and we will keep doing it as long as we have it. Are you sure that all the supercar owners search things as we do here or leave everything in the service at the hands of the employees (and pay a fortune even for a simple thing) ? The secular exchange of opinions (Hahas style excluded) was the basis of the Agora then in ancient Greece and of the forum now with the Internet. By the way what brand-viscosity engine oil are you using?
  10. Much stiffer-more lower spring with (Koni) shock absorber in not so good condition means more burden in the system. Lowering spring with OE shock absorber = disaster.
  11. This video is with only 30Km distance with ENEOS oil, after few weeks will see more. With Motul 10W-40 i had the most smooth Cold Start but ENEOS 10W-40 beat it in fuel consumption and rev up capability. Amsoil 10W-40 was the best in those 2 sectors. My mistake that i didn't made a Cold Start video with Shell 5W-40, was best in fuel consumption than Motul and in few days will see against the ENEOS.
  12. Here is the crank A the Crank B and the crank C.
  13. I am using Apex lowering springs 30mm, not Eibach 40mm (i had them in the past). According to Apex: So i am fine ! 😺
  14. Michelin Pilot Exalto and Bridgestone RE-88 no more produced in 175/60/15. Yokohama A539 has not good index in Fuel Economy: F, Wet Handling: C, Noise: 72dB
  15. @Thefeliciahacker : Why don't you send KONI an email and express to them your objections? Tell them that their product will cause damage and blah blah. https://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Products/Sport-Tuning/STR-T-Kit/ Prove to them that they are wrong, quote everything you have say here and i would love to hear what they answered to you. Don't waist your time here, get the Hahas together and write to them.
  16. Koni STR.T and Eibach Lowering Springs Install and Review
  17. Write a suspension Manifesto, upload it in the web so everybody would follow exactly what you are saying there. When i bought my car you were in kindergarten, how could i consult you? If you don't agree (and paradoxically you don't agree with anything) of what i have done in my car does not affect me at all. Open a new topic with title "Do not change the stock suspension on your Felicia". I opened a topic for my Koni rebuild and i was betting for 2 things: 1) You will show up first of all in purpose with negative comments. 2) The complex Hahas will follow saying (after coordination) that he is agree with you.
  18. I rebuild my Koni in Official Service and i am happy with the results, i drive a lowered Felicia for 21 years and i am not intent to lift it as was in Stock. You can ''judge'' people but till one point, beyond that (and doing it in every single topic) is getting irritating. Υou are not the Richard Wilks and if you think that you have so much knowledge and your expertise is far above the boundaries of Greece make a recruitment application for a NASCAR team. As for the "famous name" of some people, keep in mind that ferrari's Chief test driver after so many decades of experience in every single supercar of this brand tried his luck in Nürburgring and in F1, Failed in both !
  19. You are "the one and only" then, the Pythagoras of Motorsport. https://i0.wp.com/www.themarginalian.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/pythagoras_knapp.jpg?w=676&ssl=1 Let me remind you an old Greek wisdom: "Eat a big mouthful but don't say a big word". Riskology about my Felicia in every topic, what you think you are going to gain from this? I didn't did this even in my motorcycle era (see the attachment RGV Γ 250 modified by me, make a comparison with a Stock) and the reasons were that i didn't want to abuse what i had (because i was going to pay for it, not the ''daddy" which buys 3 cars to his son), I didn't want to risk a fall because i was living alone and i couldn't go to work next morning (i am not the ''mama what's for dinner" guy as others) plus i didn't want to have problems with the Law. For 30 years i enjoy driving in country roads with turns, if someone does not agree with this i don't f****n care at all. Ι am not a coward and ''rodelas" so i didn't get a Pink GR Army discharge paper as others.
  20. Yes, i change it after 2 years as i do with the Coolant. The whole combination in Braking is far the best i had ever, except the Stock pads (which are for grandpa driving) i have tested EBC Black, Ferodo, Brembo brake pads.
  21. Depends on the user, i push them more, the B guy push them less, the C guy use them occasionaly in Track far more, there is no ''specific limit''. Born in 1967, i also had it a bit before the 1992 in the Army, i was the ''faster'' tank driver, maintain it properly (especially in suspension-air filter-battery-oil) and i had ''modified'' a bit the fuel line plus the gas pedal stop. I won in a exhibition all the drivers from the whole Division in the ''how to downhill a Λ shape obstacle", all the others hit the end by force and failed, me? "nice and easy" with a gear box trick. Later i start driving Sport motorcycles and i learn many things because i was lucky and born in a place with good asphalt and many turns, so a lot of ''practise". I don't do ''street racing'' in traffic lights etc, i like to drive in roads with turns and 30+ of humble experience can not judged but only from a driver with similar skills. Before i Had Eibach springs, much tougher and 1cm lowered but i removed them. I hear no strange noises, no vibrations more that it should be, pass the MOT suspension test and multiple checks by mechanics (here is from an OIl change, i asked for an ispection and found nothing). A note from the MOT at August: Mine had 0,3 when 0 is the Perfect.
  22. It's in the schedule, the right side is fixed. Higher boiling point than normal DOT 4.
  23. Floating brake discs, i wrote it wrong. Every 10.000 Km the front go back and after 10.000 Km the same, that's a common practise here although i do it sooner. Some years i haven't the chance to go to Mountain Roads so i don't push them hard, so there is no a ''stable'' programme. There are no many options in 175/60/14, Toyo are very good and thank God still exist, here is an example. https://www.skroutz.gr/c/578/lastixa-autokinitou/f/1583648/175-60R14.html?o=175%2F60%2F14
  24. Drilled discs had a lot of noise compared to the Plain especially annoying in Summer in Mountain Roads with window down, keep in mind that we are talking for stock dimensions and not Floated. I have used in Motorcycles Plain-Drilled-Grooved brake discs, soft-hard brake pads, stock-metallic brake lines etc. My TOYO Proxes tyres have about 6000 Km of usage.
  25. Yes, i had some other family expenses and the rebuild had to wait, were in the 3rd scale their last. 11300 so far, about 2,5 years. I din't like the feeling of Stock suspention (we are talking for a Felicia and not a BMW M3) in Mountain Roads, for fun i call it ''trombolino effect". Good and for slow City driving, slow Highway speed, compfortable ''grandpa style'' as we say it here. I had some experience about suspension for my motorcycle days with Sport 4T 400cc and 2T 250cc (adjustments-rebuild-modifications in geometry etc). Except the normal wear of some parts (top mount) i the Steering system i have made a Track-rod-end ball joint change and Gaiter changes, all the MOT passed OK and every chance the car is in lift jack (for any reason) i ask for an inspection and i am present. Things like this are for ''show-off'' only https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2597/3112/t/9/assets/lowered-lexus-f-sport.jpg?208 never envy them and never want to make my car like this.

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