D.FYLAKTOS

I have seen some videos but some guys don't think deeper as they should be and install a front radiator fan with a very sloppy work.

The stock 1.3 hoses won't fit in the new 1.6 radiator plastic sockets?

For sure (as in the test of the video), otherwise how could set my palm to test the air flow? I am not Tiramolla. 😉 My concern is not at traveling in highway but in city traffic, high temperatures, no air coming and my old engine is suffering. I wonder, an auxiliary fan could help a bit in that harsh situation?

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Gentlemen, after seen this video: How does air move through the engine bay? and since i can not do the same in my Felicia, few days ago i opened in purpose the hood when the radiator fan just started to make a check. With my palm tried to ''feel'' where the air went and i didn't felt (almost) nothing in the area around the air intake manifold which is a crucial part. NO i don't have overheating problems, no leaks, the radiator is OK, i have new fan and hose, new coolant, thermostat is OK, radiator fan switch is working as it should be etc but i keep thinking: ''what can i do to help my engine at hot summer days?'' No matter how Skoda think about this almost 30 years ago i want to do something because summer heat + age of components is good for damages only. I don't want at the moment to change the radiator with one from the Felicia 1.6 (it's another matter that we will discus it in another topic for example here ) ,i don't want to cut the hood to install hood vents and i don't want to raise the hood with washers-spacers. I am thinking for an auxiliary fan, maybe a PULLER (from the engine bay to the environment to remove heat) or PUSHER (between the bumper and the factory radiator to bring more air inside). What's your thought about this project?

So, the question remains:

Only the right hose with 45' degrees can use it in Felicia (you have to cut it), connects the throttle cover with the air box and it's 65mm diameter.

Why? So we stick to the original hoses or we buy aftermarket hoses (from italy for example) for temperatures at least 120 'C? Unfortunately the links of the photos are not working.

You got SPI and me MPI that's why i couldn't recognize it, here it is in some photos https://www.car.gr/parts/view/9389603-peugeot-citroen-vw-group-audi-seat-skoda-pontesiometro-gkazioy-bosch-0132008600-g-n-i-s-i-a-kalometaxeirismena-antallaktika As for the Vag-Com or VCDC, well..they are not panacea, in the past 3 of them (2 from different mechanics and one by OBD 11) couldn't discover a problem which was wrong part number of Lambda sensor. The seller gave me wrong item (which fitted and worked) but cause me high fuel consumption and i found it by myself. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/?do=findComment&comment=5651422 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/?do=findComment&comment=5654461 No faults from scanners, the Lambda was sending signals to ECU but not the proper ones, the car was working (city-national way) but with higher fuel consumption.

In the second photo is your MAP sensor? Both have worked (in mine), old mechanic will had old equipment, new mechanic means laptop.

For sure, the marks show contact but the latest years things changed. If i can i will lift the seal and make it more soft with products for this cause or apply a thin layer of rubber foam at the oval marks of the hood to make the contact with the seal more efficient. I don't think that i can find a new seal.

So encyclopaedically we say: do alloy spokes with a steel rim can be welded? My thought is to paint the wheels in a proffesional repair-shop (the spokes in black) so in the future any scratch could be covered easily by me.

I knew it by instinct, proved twice with simple evidence so other Felicia members can find relative informations via Google search if they have the same concern & problem.

https://pavlospettas.gr/episkeves-metatropes-zantwn/ https://www.nikospettas.com/en/photos/rim-wheel-repair I don't know if this is a ''custom'' work on spokes. but since it's Alloy there is a risk. Here is for Alloy from Pakistan and a s you can read in comments everyone is referring to ''Safety'' later on the road.

Yesterday i made a ''sealing'' test, i put a piece of cardboard standing upright and i closed the hood, here is what happened. It didn't went all the way down, a part of it protrudes upwards so i done another one test, i lay down the piece of cardboard and i closed the hood, the result must be one: the rubber seal reaches the oval area of the hood sealing everything and the cardboard must be crumpled up. Theoretically Yes but here is the result, the cardboard is untouched ! As i expected by instinct, there is a gap between the hood and the rubber seal (no crash accident, the hood is the original) and dirty air from the engine bay passes to the sponge filter and then inside the cabin.

It's a nightmare.

I think i will lose torque in low-medium rpm and i will have some noise more. I have changed the catalytic converter in the past with a metallic one, some gain in high rpm but i lost it from the medium. Very few do this here but in case that will stop you by Traffic Police for suddenly inspection of emissions and noise...''you are done".

Gentlemen, i asked 2 mechanics so far, the one said NO and the other said that the cost of the work would be equal to a cost of 4 new wheels. In iron wheels many things can be done. The majority of drivers in forums that i have asked said the same, NO because is aluminium and soon or later the ''crack'' will show-up. On the other hand someone said to buy a set of 4 new iron wheels and go to a Water Jet machine to make me some ''artistic work'' but in my mind came this video: It's a very controversial matter and very risky.

Great news, it's from ABS plastic?

One of my ideas is to remove that factory seal and go to a repair-shop to make for me an oval shape metal ''lip'' (wider that the original) to cover the plastic oval ''nest'' of the sponge filter, will go down few cm further. Also to cut the original ''lip'' and make it bigger but if i make it wider wouldn't be good or this will change the pressure of the incoming air dramatically? The blower inside would be ''happy'' with more quantity of air?

I have post them in the past, here is mine: I always wondering why the metallic lip (that brings the air inside) is much smaller that the size of the sponge. If i make it wider wouldn't be good or this will change the pressure of the incoming air? The blower inside would be ''happy'' with more quantity of air?

I don't know how good it does it but the metallic lip not only does not touches the sponge (no marks on it) but does not touch even the metal mesh that i put to stop leaves-bugs etc. As you can see the mesh is untouchable. Which means if there is a space between the hood and the seal (of the cabin filter) then dirty air comes through inside the cabin.

That's why i have made some thoughts here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491645-can-i-make-a-modification-to-my-felicia-13-filter-case/?do=findComment&comment=5759492 After the "sealing" procces it's time to think about the scoop mainly as cover (water, hairs etc).

That's why i asked you because i had similar problem in the past with bad idling and this was the cause.

My cabin filter is a charcoal sponge ,every time is raining or i go to a car wash it's gets wet. That's among other problems that i had with it. The metallic lip that brings fresh air from the hood's grille has a gap of 3-4 cm and does not touch that sponge so from that gap odours from the engine bay ''hit'' all day that sponge and pass through it inside the cabin. When i press the Recycle button i feel that the blower gets air from the cabin and push it outside through that filter and my concern is: with that scoop above would be capable to soak or push the air easily or this scoop will make things tougher? I want to put a small scoop to protect the ''cabin filter'', it's not like Muscle Cars that wated air from the hood to ''hit'' their air filter or like Subaru WRX STI which want that air for their radiator.