D.FYLAKTOS

The engine bay has less temperature than the coolant, for example the engine around the thermostat may have about 40-45 'C and the coolant inside the expansion tank 70 'C at least (and may reach 20 'C more).

Can aluminium coolant expansion tanks help our coolant to get ''cold'' faster or there will be not difference comparing to plastic? If the coolant get ''cold'' faster, this won't help the engines performance?

Oh, No... 80-85 isn't your thermoswitch? This will make radiator fan work much harder, i have destroyed a new one this way (the mechanic made wrong connection) and i have opened a topic for this.

I have one scale lower thermoswitch in purpose. Yeah, high W electric fan and if it works often will add more load to the engine.

The highest is 95°c at July for example in very harsh traffic situations. If i manage to extract some heat from the engine bay would do any good in long term? So we can make a modification to help it?

@toot : You have also hood vents to help the hot air come out from the enfine bay.

Yes, for the air filter box but i feel that extensive summer heat at traffic and old components make me worry. Those electric fans didn't helped you at all?

I have no onerheating problems, the highest temperature that i have seen in traffic is one click above the 90 'C line, the 2nd scale works when i engage the a/c. I had the thought via a fan to brink more air inside or extract some of the hot air from the engine bay especially close to the air intake manifold.

In the 2nd photo is more visible.

I know what you mean, i have felt that heat coming out from the sides but i was referring to the harsh traffic conditions in the summer, i thought that an auxiliary fan could help a bit at that time.

I have seen some videos but some guys don't think deeper as they should be and install a front radiator fan with a very sloppy work.

The stock 1.3 hoses won't fit in the new 1.6 radiator plastic sockets?

For sure (as in the test of the video), otherwise how could set my palm to test the air flow? I am not Tiramolla. 😉 My concern is not at traveling in highway but in city traffic, high temperatures, no air coming and my old engine is suffering. I wonder, an auxiliary fan could help a bit in that harsh situation?

😲

Gentlemen, after seen this video: How does air move through the engine bay? and since i can not do the same in my Felicia, few days ago i opened in purpose the hood when the radiator fan just started to make a check. With my palm tried to ''feel'' where the air went and i didn't felt (almost) nothing in the area around the air intake manifold which is a crucial part. NO i don't have overheating problems, no leaks, the radiator is OK, i have new fan and hose, new coolant, thermostat is OK, radiator fan switch is working as it should be etc but i keep thinking: ''what can i do to help my engine at hot summer days?'' No matter how Skoda think about this almost 30 years ago i want to do something because summer heat + age of components is good for damages only. I don't want at the moment to change the radiator with one from the Felicia 1.6 (it's another matter that we will discus it in another topic for example here ) ,i don't want to cut the hood to install hood vents and i don't want to raise the hood with washers-spacers. I am thinking for an auxiliary fan, maybe a PULLER (from the engine bay to the environment to remove heat) or PUSHER (between the bumper and the factory radiator to bring more air inside). What's your thought about this project?

So, the question remains:

Only the right hose with 45' degrees can use it in Felicia (you have to cut it), connects the throttle cover with the air box and it's 65mm diameter.

Why? So we stick to the original hoses or we buy aftermarket hoses (from italy for example) for temperatures at least 120 'C? Unfortunately the links of the photos are not working.

You got SPI and me MPI that's why i couldn't recognize it, here it is in some photos https://www.car.gr/parts/view/9389603-peugeot-citroen-vw-group-audi-seat-skoda-pontesiometro-gkazioy-bosch-0132008600-g-n-i-s-i-a-kalometaxeirismena-antallaktika As for the Vag-Com or VCDC, well..they are not panacea, in the past 3 of them (2 from different mechanics and one by OBD 11) couldn't discover a problem which was wrong part number of Lambda sensor. The seller gave me wrong item (which fitted and worked) but cause me high fuel consumption and i found it by myself. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/?do=findComment&comment=5651422 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/?do=findComment&comment=5654461 No faults from scanners, the Lambda was sending signals to ECU but not the proper ones, the car was working (city-national way) but with higher fuel consumption.

In the second photo is your MAP sensor? Both have worked (in mine), old mechanic will had old equipment, new mechanic means laptop.

For sure, the marks show contact but the latest years things changed. If i can i will lift the seal and make it more soft with products for this cause or apply a thin layer of rubber foam at the oval marks of the hood to make the contact with the seal more efficient. I don't think that i can find a new seal.

So encyclopaedically we say: do alloy spokes with a steel rim can be welded? My thought is to paint the wheels in a proffesional repair-shop (the spokes in black) so in the future any scratch could be covered easily by me.

I knew it by instinct, proved twice with simple evidence so other Felicia members can find relative informations via Google search if they have the same concern & problem.

https://pavlospettas.gr/episkeves-metatropes-zantwn/ https://www.nikospettas.com/en/photos/rim-wheel-repair I don't know if this is a ''custom'' work on spokes. but since it's Alloy there is a risk. Here is for Alloy from Pakistan and a s you can read in comments everyone is referring to ''Safety'' later on the road.

Yesterday i made a ''sealing'' test, i put a piece of cardboard standing upright and i closed the hood, here is what happened. It didn't went all the way down, a part of it protrudes upwards so i done another one test, i lay down the piece of cardboard and i closed the hood, the result must be one: the rubber seal reaches the oval area of the hood sealing everything and the cardboard must be crumpled up. Theoretically Yes but here is the result, the cardboard is untouched ! As i expected by instinct, there is a gap between the hood and the rubber seal (no crash accident, the hood is the original) and dirty air from the engine bay passes to the sponge filter and then inside the cabin.