D.FYLAKTOS

Some years ago i heard some noises from the engine bay, something like ''metal clang'', i opened the hood and after thoroughly check i found the guilty: An idiot from the bodywork workshop forgot it inside the engine bay.

Here is was i saw few years ago when i went my car to change the seat covers. Dust was everywhere. The end of this plastic part goes where? There is some kind of bottom which we car reach and clean the remains?

That can beat even a famous Synthetic oil like Amsoil?

It's very difficult to adapt a filter like this inside the case that i already have because it's oval shape. Skoda didn't think us at all when Felicia created. I can not find or i can not imagine a way to put an extra filter to work as Cabin filter.

The sponge that Felicia has is with Activated Carbon https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51Xb8e3IaiL._AC_SL1012_.jpg good when it's new but after some years becomes fragile. I wash mine 1-2 times per year but as you can see in the oval sides it's not ''sealed'' and maybe some air comes inside the vents. That's why i put the extra kitchen hood filter. Older photo: when i removed the sponge, as you can see there is no adequate depth to install something else. This dirt make me creap.

Below the factory sponge filter i have added a layer from filter of kitchen hood, an example: https://krausmann.gr/en/product/cooker-hood-filter-hs55151/ I did it as an extra layer of protection but still i worry because this patent can not compared to a cabin filter.

It's extremely difficult to make a modification https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491645-can-i-make-a-modification-to-my-felicia-13-filter-case/ so i can install a cabin filter for example like Fabia has.

Look my outside the cabin filter. The hairs are from dogs which some have them in their balcony. I am worrying for what is passing through it and comes inside the air vents.

Gentlemen, have you ever heard or use devices like these? Have you seen them on a car? Does worth to buy and install one in our Old car since we don't have inside the cabin filter as other Skoda models? ....................................................... Philips GoPure SlimLine 230 TeslaAir - Airdog V5 Car Air Purifier AirDog TeslaAir Car Air Purifier. (6 month review) Sharp FP-JC2M-B

I am starting taking courage. My average speed in heavy city traffic is about 16 km/hour according to TC-6 Few times the 3rd gear and only for few seconds, mainly 1st-2nd and short trips. That's the every day situation inside Athens.

I have found a local ''car guy'' (many year ago had a Favorit) with many cars (from small N/A to turbo) in experience and told me some things which i translate them best as i can: ''Most 1.6 in the city of Athens with heavy traffic exceed 14 liters (checked with Primera, Focus, Renault). A Skoda Fabia brand new 1.2 MPI that I had in 2008-2010, mixed route with 150 km per day of which 20-30 in heavy traffic never happened and for no reason below 9 liters. If I get a move from the borders of Athens (Attica) to Athens (near Christmas period with traffic) i had 11 litre in gas pum station. Even this one which has "modern" and a three-cylinder engine tαrgeting the low fuel consumption, if it worked as a taxi in Athens (heavy traffic) the 13 litre would have had it for sure''. After all these i don't feel so bad as i use to be.

I have made a simple test today, the car has hot, i removed the black cover of the throttle and pushed a little bit the plate. It moved, the ''Z'' metal guide touched the plastic buffer and stopped. The car was working normally (pushing down the plate at front means the back end rised so air was coming inside) except a ''Hssss'' sound. I kept the plate down for few seconds, the car didn't turned-off the the ''Hssss'' sound continued, i left my finger the plate returned to the ''rest'' position and the ''Hsss'' sound stopped, only the sound of normal idle was heard. I did it again another one time, exactly the same results, so? That's good or bad? Is sunctioned air, right?

I will try to find a local repair-shop with it, most of them have a laptop which connect it with cable in my OBD1 port and after few seconds say ''No errors".

Nowadays if you are not Old-School mechanic or have a repair-shop near buy with a friend that knows about Carburettors i think it's a nightmare. Better install a new engine that you can upgrade (ECU-chip, turbo etc) easily.

Felicia 1.3mpi engine swap https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/475107-felicia-13mpi-engine-swap/

The throttle bodys with wire (as mine) are not common among other models from other car brands?

So for an MPI we have 0.25mm IN and 0,20mm EXH?

The manual says what i have posted with photos. It's impossible for the returning of the plate to have such a force as my finger, even if you full open the throttle manually and let it drop with it's own momentum does not go any further. Always stops at the same point, few mm before the buffer. One day i will make a test, with the car idling i will push with my finger the plate to close more, if the engine stops means no air is coming to the engine, if it continuous working means something is wrong with the adjustment.

I think the 1st is the Best.

Old topic but the The Mpi has alloy pushrods is a fact? If any new member read this (via Search) can guaranteed it?

No errors from throttle with 3 diagnostics. A local ''car guy'' with many cars (one of them was Favorit) told me that a gap of 100 rpm is not noticable from the computer and will not give an error. He insited that ''something small'' is the cause of that raise of fuel consumption on idle and suggested me to check the TPS but with 7 pns and no background (video from another Felicia) i can not do anything. The guys with 3 pins have the knowledge ready.

The TC-6 says the fuel consumption in idle is ''approximately 0,8 ltr per hour" but i was seeing in the LCD screen always 0,9-1,00 ltr/hour which means every time the throttle plate was closing was not as it should be. More air-more gasoline-more fuel consumption in idle (traffic light for example) and especially in city traffic this is very crucial. I cleaned the sticky grease, lubricate the plastic reel and the axle of the plate and ofter some minutes of driving i started seeing 0,8-0,9 ltr/hour in the LCD screen, i don't think it was a coincidence. This gives some kind of tolerance, i have tried in the first years to make it more tight (i thougth will give immediately response to the gas pedal) but i saw that i was very wrong.

No one has ever touched the cable at least for about 20 years. When the throttle plate returns to ''rest'' position (Off) seems to stop ''physically" ,only when i pushed with my finger the ''Z'' guide moves and touches the plastic buffer. The throttle plate can not close 100% otherwise the system will not have enough air for idle procedure and i think the grease much was delaying even stopped a little bit sooner (even for 1mm) the whole procedure.

As the throttle plate is in ''resting'' position the ''Z'' style guyde does not touch the plastic stop but when i press it with my finger it closes and touch it. When i release my finger the ''Z'' guide returns back as the throttle plate. I know that there must be a gap between the plate and the body of the throttle because some air needed to pass inside for the idle but i don't think that muck helps in something so i remove it with a brush and a cleaning spray.

I manage to take some photos (not very good) to show you something which i have done n the past and i think is Wrong. I apply grease to the plastic part (reel) of the throttle as a maintenance but i was exaggerate. I have the thought that after few years this became some sort of ''sticky'' making the moving of the wire a little bit difficult especially when i release the gas pedal and the throttle plate returns to Close position. Am i right or the tension of the mechanism (spring) is more powerful and can slur over?