D.FYLAKTOS

Update: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/multipurpose-relay-priced-each/4h0951253/ Product Details The relays in your vehicle control the on/off function of many electronic components. When activated the interior contacts come together and allow electricity to pass through to the component in connection. Be sure to check for proper application to ensure the right fitment. Previous Revisions 7M0951253A 8E0951253 191937503 443951253J 8D0951253 Cross Reference 191937503 7M0951253A 8D0951253 Made in Portugal (as the factory) 4H0951253 V23136-J0006-X079 SN7 PA66-GF25 With the ''temporary replacment" GM relay i had no lights and wipers although i could start-drive the car normally.

I found the ETKA but confuses me a bit. https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/skoda/fel/101/937000/ Fot INT gives the 6U0 955 532A which has different pin layout and beneath the 6U0955529 without mention the INT.

Control unit for wiper/washing system - Rear window Skoda Felicia 6U0955529 Here in a local market store is expensive but i will search in other store or in foreign shops. So it's a ''click and go'' and the rear wiper will work if i want with delay as the two fronts? No need for something else?

I remove it to clean the area from the ''green'' corrosion which i am afraid affected the signals that the MAP was receiving. Yes plus some air from rubber bulb blower.

We (the Felicia guys) have MAP and not MAF. Thw weird is that i have chenched the MAP few months ago and i remmeber that i has sprayed the contacts of the plug. Why so much corrosion and so fast?

I just checked mine today. The guys on YT are showing with 4 pins. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIB3H-HqhkE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXEOqvtuvII So what's next?

As a temporary solution my eletrician installed this relay. Guess waht? Normal engine start but no wipers at all so Monday morning an original Skoda relay will take his place. As for the INT relay no good news, maybe the wired is missing. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/289789-intermitent-wiper-delay-on-felicia/

Which i don't know if you can buy it separately or goes with he throttle together which means huge cost.

I have Lowering springs in my Felicia for 20 years, Eibach and Apex. DO NOT go for extreme situation otherwise you will have huge problem in road puddles or trying to enter a repair-shop (for example) because the front bumper of your car will be scratched on the ramp especially when you come out with reverse. Yes, they are good ''for nice look" as the car is standing and in sport driving (together with proper shock absorbers which means extra cost).

1) Just as ''for good maintenance" i ordered a genuine and the seller said Monday morning will be available 2) I thought that if i could find and install a INT relay i would make the rear to work as the 2 fronts (with delay) because in light rain situations i am Ok in front but each time i want to see the back i had to press instantly the lever so the rear wiper work only one time I wonder why Skoda didn't make all 3 wipers to work the same way.

1) That corrosion on the pin can affect the relay to work perfect 100% in all his tasks? 2) Pushing forward the lever the only thing that happens is water from the small injector to the rear window and only one move (left to right) of the wiper. The delay function of the 2 front wipers pushing the lever upward does not exist and i thought that if i could find a relay that matches then i would have the same function in the rear wiper too.

I just came from the repair-shop, i went because many times while turning the key to the first scale the noise from the relay on fuse box was weird, often i was hearing a continuing ''squeaking'' instead of the normal ''clack'' The electrician found the R7 - Ignition switch unload relay (X-relay) which is the grey with number 18 on (above photo) damaged on the right side (like someone with screwdriver tried to remove it), very hot (he said that wasn't normal) and one of the pins with significant corrosion. Was the factory one and i wonder does this corrosion can affect the Cold Start? Any other function of the car could be even slightly affected?

@HappySkoda Felicia also took 3.45 minutes, yours before turn it to LPG do you remember if was the same? or less?

Make me a huge favor, as the Felicia is out in the road make a Cold Start in the morning and time it with your cellphone, from the crank and 1100 rpm how many minutes takes to go to down the idle limit of 850 rpm?

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/ Here are both of them in photos, thank God some members helped me and found the proper (NGK) one.

I know that there are different types of Felicia so different fuse boxes but please take a look at mine. The R6 and the INT are missing. While searching on the internet i have seen many variations but almost none same a mine. Here are some examples: Fuse-Relay boxes R1 - High beam relay R2 - Front fog lamp relay R3 - Rear fog lamp relay R4 - Heated rear window relay R5 - Relay for injection system Bosch Mono-Motronic R6 - Relay for blocking the ignition system (when the door is open – only on some models) AKIN, SPDP R7 - Ignition switch unload relay (X-relay) R8 - Alarm relay INT - Rear wiper and washer relay W-W Front wiper relay My questions are: 1) Is there a possibility for a relay to affects the Cold Start only? 2) Is there a possibility for a loose or corrosioned pin on the plug above the relay to affects the Cold Start only? 3) If i install an INT relay the rear wiper will work as the front with a delay? 4) What's the role of R7 relay? What ''ignition unload" practically means? No R7 no ignition?

The Google Lens on your smartphone can help a little to read text in manuals written in those languages. https://www.drive2.ru/l/8981867/ Alejandria, Antioquia: names from Greek Kings, keep in mind that you spell the letter D exactly as us the Greeks ''Delta" (Δελτα) since the spanish language has many Greek words inside. Watching Netflix the series about Pablo i have noticed many Greek words in dialogue among actors.

Check carefully, i had few months ago a nightmare with those Bosch Lambda sensors because the same parts store 1st time gave my one which was for Before the Cat Converter and the 2nd time suggested me to buy a different code which was for After the Cat Converter.

BAD NEWS: 13th Gas station pump test: 164 Km distance, 19,890 ltr fuel which means 12,1 ltr / 100 km or 23,34 Uk mpg Those 164 Km were made in short routes (home to work) and only 2 times few kilometres in a boulevard, that because was Summer season and most of the time i used my small motorcycle. I am very disappointed because my Trusty still after all that effort by me to solve the problem does not likes the short routes and refuses to make better Cold Starts than 3:44 minutes. I made a test, i removed the factory filter box and run few kilometres with the air box empty, i had no problem at all in low-medium rpm but the Cold Star today morning at 12 o'clock noon was 3:42 minutes. Just for the experiment i installed a No Name POD to check the Cold Start time at 6 o'clock in the afternoon, the Cold Start was 3:41 minutes. No road test with POD, just a Cold Start but as i can see no matter if it's the factory Paper filter or No filter or POD my car refuses to make short Cold Starts. Since the incoming air to the MAP-Throttle is different in those 3 cases WHY the Cold Start is almost identical? PS: the @Thefeliciahacker told my to install Sprint Filter, yes i have it in mind but what difference would make since my car (in all three ways) refuses to make shorter time Cold Starts?

You are talking for something like this? https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/gauges/digital-gauges/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge A gauge like this has his own Lambda sensor but the price is too high and only some skilful guys like ECU-programmers can work with it on the road making adjustments with their laptop. The cheap ones i don't think worth nothing for and an every day driver other than just reading indications while travelling.

I already have Brembo discs (drilled but i will install Palin this time) and i remember you have the EBC Yellow. Happy with sport driving and emergency braking in city boulevard? Does anyone knows about the Tarox brake pads? https://www.tarox.co.uk/product/front-tarox-brake-pads-skoda-felicia-1-3-strada/ these are for sport use only? Tarox also makes for our Felicia 3 types of brake discs https://www.tarox.co.uk/?s=&ymm_search=1&orderby=name&post_type=product&_make=Skoda&_model=Felicia&_year=2000 grooved-drilled-curved grooves but the prices are too high.

You're da Man!

Additional informations: Here is what EBC suggests for my Felicia: EBC Ultimax Front Pads: DP1064 (i had them in the past, nothing special and i don't want them again) EBC Greenstuff Front Pads: DP21064 EBC Yellowstuff Front Pads: DP41064R EBC Standard Discs/Drums: Front D808 and here is one of the ''risks'' that i mention but not from local market. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165508222118?hash=item26890f0ca6:g:YxIAAOSwImRYj1Si 🙄

Gentlemen, it's time to change my Brembo brake discs (my brake pads are Ferodo in good condition) so i would like to hear your suggestions. 1) No more drilled discs, i won't buy grooved, the float discs don't fit so i will return to the old-factory style, here are some options: ATE BOSCH BREMBO FERODO Fri.Tech. FTE VALEO ZIMMERMANN There are some more here in the local market but i don't know them and i don't want to take the risk. 2) Should i make a combination of EBC brake discs are EBC brake pads? The Green or the Yellow ?

Just an idea: A metal ring as in the wheel spacers can not be weld in a repair-shop so the cap would be one-click wider? An example but of course not so thick.