BlueVRSTom

#Occams Razor - I know we have just started 2015 but that is with no doubt going to be the best phrase this year. I also couldnt think of a better context to use that word in other than what you have. ' why spend loads of money on this or that when I should start on the simple options '

They checked temp sensor and it came back reading 15c colder than what it actually was. But that wouldn't cause problems surely? The glow plug light works as it should, no problems. No VCDS yet. Although the garage said they have their version of it and are having the car over night and testing it in morning with the equipment connected to it.

I'm happy to start a separate thread on here about ' remaps, DPFs and EGRs ' but I really would like to keep this thread about my starting problems. I shall say you've won this battle, but the war ( debate ) is not over. I do appreciate your concerns over all these issues. However in reality now, what am I supposed to do - fit a dpf, re fit EGR and have the map taken off? Because unfortunately that is a unrealistic measure.

I'm not here to get into a big debate on here, especially when I'm just trying to get to the root cause of my problem. To have my car mapped is a personal choice and I know of a lot of people who also have remapped vehicles and a lot of people who recommend it. All the people I've spoke to have had there cars mapped for years and have covered many miles without any problems. As for the DPF delete - my dpf was full and paying £1000 just for the replacement part was crazy and it was much cheaper to delete plus they were never really meant for the PD engines and have caused various problems. With the EGR delete it stops poor running issues, a blocked EGR valve and a dirty inlet manifold. Why would I want to feed dirty exhaust emissions back into my engine? By having a EGR delete we are talking about ' minimal ' NOx increase in emissions. In all seriousness though if the above concerns you so much then I hope your against petrol cars that have been de-catted as well and I hope you drive an electric/hybrid vehicle or cycle because the increase in my vehicles emissions by having a dpf/EGR delete is tiny compared to the amount it produces anyway. However I am only 21 and maybe I just don't fully understand the whole environment worry but it's going to take a lot more than just my car to pro long the effects of destroying the ozone layer...that's if Ebola doesn't kill us first!!!

Diesel racing car? Oh yes! ( well..in my head anyway ) Okay mate I'll mention it to garage. The remap is not to blame -point blank. Shark are the best in the game and they know what they are doing. Plus it's been mapped for a long time.

Remap yes, Shark Stage 1. ( had it on for ages ) Mods - dpf delete - EGR delete - Egr cooler delete.

Visited a new garage today and explained everything. They ran a full diagnostic check. The only thing that came back was my engine coolant sensor was reading 15c lower than the actual temp. But nothing else came back. The garage want it over night and to test it in the morning so they can see and diagnose the cranking themselves. It is getting dropped off Thursday night, further info to follow...

Quick video of my car to just show my exact problem. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FxUBN_ej06c

Again a massive thank you to everyone who has commented. You have gave me more ideas/knowledge than I could have ever found on Google. I will go armed with all these options to the garage and I now feel confident that I'll get to the bottom of this. My fuel filter could be full of water at the better as I don't think it has been changed. I don't know if my car primes the pump when I open my door. No I haven't bled my fuel system after replaced. I shall give this updated with the outcome.

Deffo a fuel issue! It's what the mechanic said too. The reason the injector seals were replaced was it were thought that the seals were allowing the fuel to run back to the fuel tank so I think we're on the right tracks ( including your post ) Just more investigating I guess. Quick one on my mind is do these cars have a water part attached to the fuel filter that has to be emptied?

Thanks so far. I will check the above howvever I do highly doubt worn battery terminals would be the cause although I do appreciate your input and shall look at it. Yeah the engine is the same although it takes a longer time to crank after 6hrs then it does after a 20min drive turn off then turn on again. The above repairs were done at different garages throughout the 3/4 months. The car is on 130,000 miles and thank you for that last comment, I will be onto a garage and getting that health check put in motion!

Right where to begin, Basically my Octavia vRS 2.0tdi 2007 PD170 has had problems starting over the last 3-4 months. I will turn ignition on and wait for glow plug light to go out I will then turn the engine on and it takes a good 6-10 secs ( cranking ) until the car actually fires up. Once it fires up it idles and runs fine. It's not down to temperature but down to how long the car is left without being started. So if I left my car for 6hrs and tried starting it again it would have the same struggle although if I started it again after 20mins it would be fine. I have had: New battery New glow plugs Injector seals replaced ( expensive ) Fuel filter ( 7k ago ) I have now spent a small fortune on the above and no success. Has anyone got any other ideas or suggestions? Just want it sorting without throwing any more money away.

BlueVRS16 Always on COD

Anyone with a psn on PS3 add me, especially if you play COD BlueVRS16

Maybe not be related but I had a similar problem. I fitted new glow plugs Checked the glow plugs were getting power New battery New fuel filter. It turns out my injector seals are worn and allow fuel to run back to the fuel tank hence taking ages to start. Might not be same for you but just a thought.

Efficient grips is the ONLY tyre I run on my lowered and mapped vRS. I hace them fitted all round and run them on 35psi Dry grip - perfect Wet grip - perfect They seem to last very well too. I've done a few track days and push her hard on bends and on straights regularly. They are £90 aprx on blackcircles.com. A rating for wet grip C for fuel rating I couldn't be happier. I'd be very surprised if anyone comments anything bad about them.

Go to your nearest Powerflow fitter. They fit custom exhausts. Quiet or loud OEM looking tail pipes or huge bore pipes. Loads of options with Powerflow. Also very well priced.

Are talking about a EGR Valve or EGR Cooler? Two very different things. The EGR valve should be located at the front of the engine and has 3 bolts holding it in. It can usually be cleaned by yourself and then replaced. If you want a replacement EGR valve then that two is fine and would expect to pay no more than about £80 for it. £800 for an EGR? Cannot be correct!

Same as Semka^ If I can make it I'll be coming from Lincoln way?

Hey there, Is it normal for a remapped ( stage 1 ) diesel car with the dpf removed and a completely straight through exhaust to expel black smoke on hard acceleration? I always thought it was normal but my friend told me that it shouldn't happen and it means the car is over fueling and I should go back to the mapper for a tweak. I will add it isn't like a smoke cloud nor does it stain my car however it's enough to see a stream of smoke on full hard acceleration. Also my injector seals need replacing which are getting done in Jan which could also add the smoke. Just wondered on everyone views/comments? Car is always maintained and serviced correctly. Thanks.

Original clutch and dmf on a Octy vRS with a Stage 1 map ( 210bhp/420nm ) 127,000 miles and not a single slip or problem.

I'd personally have to recommend Shark to you. The after care you get if needed is incredible and their knowledge about mapping is second to none! They give you one of the safest maps out there while still releasing great gains and performance. I get the impression Revo maps are very agresive ( although I have no evidence or experience of this so take it with a pinch of salt ) Plus if your waiting till New Year then the 10% will be good as well.

Can't help with the smoke situation so sorry! However their is no ' ideal ' pressure or tyre brand. However they are opinions and I personally recommend 35psi all round althlough the norm is 32 front and 34 rear. As for tyre brand I go on a website called black circles.com and buy Goodyear Efficient tyres with a 'A' in wet grip and 'B' in fuel economy for £90 a corner on 18" I run Stage 1 on a diesel so need the grip when it comes to accelerating hard. Great all round tyre and very quiet. Epic in the wet and gets pushed very hard at times and is extremely reliable. Hope that helps.