linni

Only for cars 2020 and onwards. Unfortunately the coding did not work on my 2019 Kodiaq.

I have done BSR remap, activated direct throttle control and in Sports mode the throttle response in immediate. Normal mode is bit more mild, but nothing bad, compared to the out of the factory mode.

RS has a launch control feature, which is pretty explosive, faster than manual with clutch. But of course you do not use it in everyday commuting, looks more than ridiculous.

Well, manual Lambo (Gallardo if I recall correctly) is slower, than the one with DSG.

You just cannot undrstand. You have developed infrastructure of road network in UK. Dual carriegeways everywhere etc. We suffered 50 years of soviet occupation here. No one built the dual carriegeways here this time, missle silos were priority one. Overtaking on simple 2 lane road is becoming a challange. Throttle not behaving as it should be could be fatal.

You want sometimes the car react immediately, specially in urban traffic. The default setting for throttle response is ridiculously slow, even dangerous in some occasions. Nothing to do with sports car feeling.

There are chiptuners, who offer special throttle boxes. Like this: https://www.racechip.de/gaspedal-tuning/xlr.html There are more, just cannot remember all of them.

VCDS: Direct Acceleration - Throttle response With this mod, you can change the behaviour of the accelerator. Option B provides a more linear acceleration without sudden deliveries. 1. Module 44 - Power Steering (Code 19249) 2. Adaptation 3. Select - switching driving profile Choices: A - Gradual, controlled by time B - Directly controlled threshold value

So simple but just brilliant Personalisation however will do it for you just autmatically if lazy like me. Just an option. P.S. If we are talking about the cruise control, i suggest ACC with traffic jam assistant, if you are located somwhere in the southern part of UK. Pretty tense in there.

I activated seat position memory with VCDS. Ask for some independent garage for that or check the VCDS owners map here in forum. Beware, at some point of production line (2022?) the access with VCDS has been restricted. Sunroof - no affect. Big alloys - no affect (driving on 20 alloys). TBH, I have an extra noise cancelling insulation installed.

Oil temp between 100 and 110 degrees is normal. As told, check the radiator fan and the fuse for it.

I had AAWireless the very first patch. Wifi chip died after some months, was replaced under warranty (very fast) and now working ever since.

Buy a wireless Carplay dongle (I understand that the wired version is operational).

I had replaced the gearbox oil in every 60 000 km. Also flywheel has been changed (with clutch) appr. in every 150 000 km. So far so good (fingers crossed).

I had Superb II 2,0 TDI, 6 speed DSG, sold at 390 000 km. Present car has done 440 000 km (DQ 500). No worries on gearbox at all on both cars.

Yes, OBDEleven can be tricky. I own one, but do not trust much it. It can handle easier stuff, but serious coding I wouldn`t trust to it. There are some feedbacks over the internet people bricking their ECUs with OBD11. Besides, if you compare the websites of RossTech (VCDS) and OBD11, then the first is pure tech stuff and the other is like a chinese webshop. Sales, sales, sales, but nothing about the engineering. OBD11 has nothing, that VCDS does not have. My opinioin is, that one is just copying solutions from another. So, I would definitely prefer VCDS (which I also own) over the OBD11. P.S. And as I noticed, OBD11 got greedy. So far they had PRO app, which allowed to do codings with their OBD dongle. You purchased it once (40 or 60 euros, do not remember exactly) and that was it. Now they developed a plan, asking 60 euros for an annual subscription for the same thing.

£410 is for the pro tool with unlimited VIN. You can choose the cheaper one for 3 different cars (the program memorizes the car`s VIN) for 185 quid here: https://vcdsdiagnostics.co.uk/product/vcds-hex-v2-enthusiast-usb-interface-three3-different-carsvin-numbers/ I assume OBDEleven can do almost the same and is cheaper a bit. https://obdeleven.com/products/pro-pack

VCDS

Samsung does not support Mirrorscreen anymore. And Android Auto is pretty limited, correct. There are no apps that can duplicate your phone screen to infotainment screen, Only hardware. I am using Ottocast dongle, you can find a version which probably suits you best here: https://www.ottocast.com/

Cannot really understand your question. Smartlink IS Android Auto (and Carplay).

Edit: I am using Nextbase 522 dashcam and the technical data states, that it consumes about 70 - 80 mA in standby mode.

Let me also know, what fuse did you find. I had similar problems, changed the battery, got coded with Exide dongle (later did it myself with VCDS) and charging problems started. Sometimes it did charge only at 12V. Also battery was pretty drained by the mornings. Disconnected dashcam, was a bit better. Went to dealers, the recoded the battery and since then everything is ok. The coding was almost the same as I did with VCDS, but somehow their coding worked and mine did not.

@Nimby Yes, some cheap chinese ones can do it. I have 2 dongles in my car - one is Ottocast P3. Great thing, but it literally kills your phone connection to the car. I only use it when I need two navigation apps to run simultaneously as it allows to split the screen. Another one is AAwireless, which I use daily. Works perfectly.

Transferring wired Car Play to wireless one cannot be done with firmware update. Lots of Car Play dongles on market, I bet most of them are worth buying.

About Webasto - I never had a problem at -25 C to work for an hour on the first battery. Like I said,10 minutes at 0 C on replacement battery and voltage went trough the bottom. What I wanted to point out, is that I never met such kind of coding anywhere. The coding provided everywhere in VAG forums just did not work. And this one, never met before, just works. Maybe it`s due to Exide, not Varta, as original. Shouldn`t be, but some kind of mystery is present. P.S. I know the metrics for the AGM battery work differently, but the behaviour: driving constant speed, charging at 12,3 V. Lifting the throttle, charging goes to 14,7 V. Stepping on throttle, 12,3 V again. This is definitely not normal (installed Torque app on the phone, which gives instant readings). Edit: Just noticed, that # to allow regenerative charging when slowing down. #. Makes sense. But regen charging only works on braking, not just going engine braking? P.P.S. Start Stop is disabled from the day one. P.P.P.S. At the moment I can see 12,9 V.Which is fully loaded. Never seen this kind of figure before on this battery. Usual was 12,5 after the ride and 12,3 in the mornings. Which is about 50% of capacity. Meaning the battery management system was living his own life. And finally, why this topic? Was considering to buy a new alternator. OEM alternator costs a cent shy from 1400 euros.