Crasher

erWin

And all this is in an hysterical chase for reducing CO2 tailpipe emissions, in reality the overall emissions are probably worse due to the amount of oil being burnt and the life of the cat (and G/DPF when fitted) is going to be significantly reduced.

Yes, we sometimes get the same car come in with different owners or here of it going elsewhere as the garage rings us up for help.

I think thePolo 9N has been quite good against rust unlike the 6N. It is difficult to put an exact time on the problem starting but the Golf 5 platform AKA PQ35 certainly was a step back from the Golf 4 PQ34 in respect of front wings, sills and entire rear underbody. We recently welded the back of the sills and stripped, de rusted, treated and Dinitrol sprayed the entire rear floor of a Golf 5 GTI which should last a long time.

Rust has made a big comeback on VAG products, they were so much better from the 82 Golf 1 right through to the Golf 4 and then it all went wrong… my 200k Octavia 1U has had zero structural or cosmetic rust except where morons had used trolley jacks on the sills before I bought it and to be honest, Skoda are better than the rest of the VAG range especially Audi on the 8E and 8K A4 which suffer horrible floorpan and chassis leg rust. Even the aluminium A8 is not immune, last year we had an 8 year old A8 in and I just put my fingers through the subframe where the diff mounts, a huge job to fit a new subframe

Customers car so I was duty bound to make it perfect no matter what the personal cost, the person he bought it from had it lashed up and palmed off on him.

I started doing this about 10 years ago, I have the calipers in a reasonable state of repair (missing a pad plate) and was planning on getting BCS to do them as they are near me but I did a dry run using the new 18” Wolfrace Pro Lite they said would fit but they didn’t so I left it about five years and when those wheels were like a 50p piece I ordered Alutec 18” wheels to LCR1 homologation but they didn’t fit, then I found the LCR1 was homologated with the 312’s as well for Europe and the Brembo’s were optional there so now am waiting until I need new wheels again which with the state of Nottinghamshire roads can’t be long BUT which aftermarket 18’s will fit a LCR1 with the Brembo calipers? I don’t give a toss about the price, I just can’t find any!

I had been through too much trauma by then to gamble any more, the unit cost us £5k ish with discount and no VAT, currently the unit, 03C 100 092 DX, is £7976.40 retail inc VAT, a bit of an increase in 3 years never mind 7! @toot I would not touch one of those cheap fleaBay recons with yours, never mind my own…😒

Take a seat, this is a long one! In February 2020 we had a Scirocco come in with the CAVD version, it was smoking and misfiring so I gave it to one of my lads to do a compression test which showed two cylinders down so he dropped the sump, chain cover and chain system off and pulled the head, when the cam carrier was off we found one of the fingers out of position and it had mangled the inlet cam and the carrier, it was clear it had been apart before. He flipped it over and filled the chambers with brake cleaner and all the exhaust valves leaked so he stripped it and took it to the engineers for exhaust guides, vales, skim and pressure test. I noticed the bores were so shiny you could do your makeup in them so whilst the head was away we got permission to pull them and hone the bores plus fit new rings and shells but when we put the pistons on the bench our mobile visiting engineer noticed the ring land of two had gone, and I mean gone, no trace of the missing metal! So, I ordered a set of Nural pistons, KS bearings, Elring gaskets, head and rod bolts, Febi lifters, fingers, oil cooler, FAI timing chain kit, oil pump and inlet cam plus second hand cam carrier (I know, I know) and he built the engine back up. Plugs out primed and then started, it sounded like a skeleton masturbating in a biscuit tin and a quick check showed barely 2 Bar oil pressure when revved, sod all at idle. Yes it had a new VVT hub, solenoid and oil tube as well! The only thing we could think of was the oil jets as we had removed them for honing and reused them, sump off, new jets (difficult to do with the crank in the way and ran it up... no difference, so we dropped the sump AGAIN and decided the KS bearings felt sloppy so we fitted Glyco, built it up, no difference...FFS! We put the original pump on, again, no difference. Then the world went into meltdown and everyone except me and my business partner went on a three month holiday on full pay as we topped it up out of our own pockets. As there wasn't much work in (thank God for our eBay shops) I pulled the whole engine out and gutted it on the bench, I found the block was badly warped so our engineers decked and hot tanked it, then I meticulously inspected it, core plugs out, and smoke tested for leaks. I built it back up with a genuine new oil pump, Glyco bearings, the new jets, new bolts, the new pistons, engineer checked and polished crank which I Plastigauge checked the clearances on and brand new FULL genuine head with new lifters and fingers again plus a new genuine cam carrier with the pervious cam setup and basically built it as I always do, no compromises except I didn't paint the block as normal... even a new Febi rear crank oil seal; literally the only original parts of the base unit were the cam chain cover, bare block, crank and rods but all meticulously cleaned and checked. I fitted and primed it and when I started it it sounded awful and STILL had no oil pressure, I was baffled, never experienced anything like it in 42 year of building VAG engines. I just gave up, ordered a new base unit from TPS and ****ed it off, I calculated that cockup cost us £25k and just at the worst possible time. What REALLY hurt is to get the exchange the engine had to go back but we did put the original head and cam carrier on plus the old oil pump. One interesting point with the new engine was it cam with a brand new block and recon head but also a new timing chain cover and this had been a suspect during build but I could not see a fault.

I refuse to rebuild them after the misery the last one caused me.

Sorry for the late reply, Thinking about it yours should already have the Diamond washers but they must not be reused so the kit 03C 198 159 A is a little cheaper at £67.44 than all three parts separately (the bush is often worn on the seal point) plus you need a new O ring although these come in many chain kits such as Febi and FAI. You must use a new bolt which is 21mm now instead of 19mm and critically the pulley must be counter held against turning using tool T30004 with the crank blocking peg T10340 still fitted and the bolt torqued to 150 Nm + a further 180° (1/2 turn). 1) Bolt N 910 486 01 2) Pulley 3) Diamond washer WHT 001 877 4) Teflon seal (must be installed dry 5) Bush 03C 105 159 H 6) O ring N 909 032 01 7) Diamond washer WHT 005 162

There is a retro fit diamond disc conversion to stop this happening.

We do the same and take them off to make removal easier and as with an exchange DQ200 DSG box I fitted into a Golf 6 on Thursday, we remove the flange before installing the box and then using a big bar to lever against something sturdy and tap the flange to help it seat and pop the bolt in. One word of caution, always use a new bolt as they can snap in service which makes a mess and is why we were fitting a recon box.

The column switch does the changeover

To me that is the column switch

We have the locking tools but have discovered these are not accurate enough and the new VW tool, which is accurate to 0.05 degree, is nearly £3k plus VAT so we are thinking about it. So far the ones we have done have been fine but until we get the tool we have suspended doing the ACT versions. Anyway, the VAG SSP on the engine and the online service system say there is no interval.

We fitted a brand new genuine steering gear to a 2017 SQ5 this morning, started the engine and ping, ABS light on... WTF? Went into the ABS, coding incorrect, another WTF! Thankfully I had a prescan so I could code it back quickly, it had altered the coding for a car with direct TPMS instead of indirect, I mean WHY?

We have had similar stupid things happen with other devices such as the BCM on a Passat type 36, the usual screen wash output failure. I plugged it in, started ODIS in GFF for the module coding, SVM and “transport” unlock and the entire car went ballistic, changed the coding on nearly every module, reconfigured the ABS ECU for left hand drive and locked it… I mean, WTF!

We fitted a new genuine DQ200 Mechatronic in a Leon last week, bloody thing insisted on the immobiliser being recoded with both keys so the customer had to bring in the second key, I mean why? We have done dozens of them and have never needed to do that.

Please I don’t want you to be humbled or disappointed, every day is a school day as I have experienced today trying to get a Toerag 2 V8 air suspension to learn its basic ride height settings to +/-3mm even using the VAG system ODIS. It is certainly hard to grasp the G28 doing this but it is about the only component I know that does this, I have seen it a number of times, I think due to heat soak.

That wouldn't cause the rev counter to dip violently.

It is unusual for the VAG data on ETKA to conflict with the NGK list and Tecdoc. I was going to get a genuine 03C 905 601 B up from TPS but they don't stock them

That is a very strong indication of a failing crank speed sensor G28, these have a nasty habit of not showing up as a code so I depend on that as a clue. 16490 (P0106) - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal I would, for now, judge that more as a result than a reason. Certainly based on what you say I would do the G28 first but on the CAVE it is evil to get at as the compressor has to come off which as you probaly know is a LOT of work.

FFS, people don't half get up their arse on here, I was only quoting ELSA! Do you shout at the worksop manual?