Crasher

How old are the plugs? It would be a good idea to get a code read done.

I read it someone in a VAG Self Study Program but can't find it again, ELSA just says don't.

The English make fun of everything, it is hope we cope with the **** life throws at us.

Maybe the 3 pot vibration shakes the crap out of them…

He is doing the right thing no matter what. If you take off a cylinder head it is accepted standard practice to give it an as light as possible reface BUT VAG now scream very loudly about not doing this “cylinder head must not be reworked”. The reason is the heads are HIP heat treated (Hot Isostatic Pressing) and refacing removes this so increasing porosity. This is why you read people saying “I had the head gasket done two years ago and it has gone again”. I have used AMC heads for years with totally reliable results. I have used genuine VAG exchange heads on the ASZ and ARL, you can see these have been refaced and reheat treated, it has an almost gloss lacquer type appearance rather than the typical satin skimmed finish.

What is the VIN?

Not even that hard, just access the cabin filter cover… at least it isn’t a Golf 7, I hate doing those, crap design. Take care with the light switch rack, they are fragile.

I haven’t seen a bad CV joint for a long time.

There are a number of variations such as manual or auto, what is the VIN?

The fitting kit is genuine dealer only 5WA 815 155 and costs £13.48 BUT this is assuming you have the common Valeo system not Denso, interestingly I have yet to see this problem on the MQB platform fitted with the Denso system but it is much less common.

That sounds like the “X line” relay is not working, this shuts off various circuits between the ignition being turned on and engine cranking. The relay may be faulty BUT on this platform we have seen many failures of the body control module which operates the relay.

We use an decent aftermarket matrix such as Nissens but you still need to buy the genuine fitting kit or they leak.

If you have ever owned a VAG 8 valve PD engine you are likely to have learnt the benefits of roller rockers over direct wiping lifters... Modern low saps oil doesn't work well with wiping surfaces hence lifter failure and timing chain wear. The 2.5 V6 TDI went from direct to roller finger because the cams wore so badly.

Narty but a rare KR problem. Unlike the 8V where you could bore and fit insert bearings (I found a full set in the stores last week!) and save the head,

It is single belt drive gear to the exhaust cam and gear to gear drive over to the inlet, a bit like the Golf 2 16v KR but replacing the chain with meshed gears. There is only one way I know that one of those rockers can lose a bearing and that is when they have been smashed during cam belt failure.

The Silica bag not being present will contribute to the problem. G13 is Si-OAT (Silicated HOAT) – i.e. Silicates and organic acids. The bag of additive never splits in my experience, it is there to prevent Silicate falling out of suspension and blocking the matrix. Flushing the matrix doesn't work, once it is out, change it. Only use G12 Evo and if mixing, only use distilled water.

Yes that looks too long to be out of a roller rocker and as Mike says the only other part that contains something like that is the crank spigot bearing and how would one of those make it in there? Hang on, they are two stuck together, they are out of a roller rocker.

That is a needle roller from a roller bearing, CAYC engine code?

Cold drivers side is classic MQB matrix blockage… it’s coming up to that season again. I have personally never seen the Silicate bag or cartridge burst, it was there to boost the Silicate levels in the G13 coolant which has now been superseded by G12 Evo. We but this from TPS in 20 litre drums of concentrate and then mix 60% Quantum mixing water and 40% G12 Evo. You can buy ready mixed but it is 50/50 and a little on the strong side for our needs in the UK.

There is no caster adjustment on the PQ35 platform other than a small amount of movement in the rear consul mount and the camber is fixed apart from again some slight play in the ball joint mounting. You can add caster adjustment with Powerflex rear consul bushes and camber adjustment with their front wishbone bushes.

I can’t cope with wading through all that unpleasant stuff (the reason I drifted away from this forum years ago) so I will go back to the first post, is the battery original and is the car stop/start?

Unless the oil consumption exceeded 0.5L per 620 miles, VAG consider it acceptable even on a new car… especially on a new car.

One common failure is the flap sticking, we did one on a 2012 T5 last week with the high output CFCA engine, the flap was stuck and the cooler blocked solid, on these the complete unit is £1127.95 and takes a full day to fit.

Regarding the exchange unit, that has been dropped. Yes I am the same Crasher as on the VW sites. That sensor maybe reading that value as it isn’t fitted, the cars VIN would help me check.

I put the details of a very similar cars into the erWin online digital service system a few days ago, it was a 2017 2L TDI in for service and 5 year cam belt. The Skoda DSS said the cam belt was due in 2036 or 240000 km, circa 150000 miles. So VAG Germany basically say the belt is good for 20 years but VAG UK say 5, a workshop filler… RIP Queen Elisabeth II