Murdockman

A bit confusing post, do you mean you have stripped the slide pin thread on the bracket or the thread on the actual strut that holds the bracket onto the strut? eithier one is not called a stub axle so see the confusion, you can get a thread repair kit for the caliper bracket for the pins and also the thread in the strut part, if changing the caliper bracket to remerdy the stripped thread you need disc size and caliper make as each caliper uses it's own type of pins, Fabia MK2 can use up to 3 different types of caliper on the front so you need to be careful, if it's the same make as yours, i came across a Fabia with 2 different types of pads fitted on each front wheel once and the guy could not understand why, as prevoius post d suggested thread repair kit is the best option, if you get the carrier off perhaps a garage might be able to helicoil or do the repair for you thus saving you quite a bit of money

On the drivers door you should see a small square button type shape just to the rear below the main door pull handle, if I remember you press this button just before setting the alarm/locking the door, once door is shut this disables the interior sensor, was fitted so you could leave dog or kids in the car but still have doors protected by the alarm

If you splash out on the correct coolant it does not need changing for a least 5 years but most people buy the cheaper coolant but then wonder why the coolant pump fails and they land up with an even bigger bill, as said bottom hose off if you want to do a good job I would also remove thermostat/top hose get a hose pipe and flush the block rad and heater out as well, a bit meesy but worth doing in the long run

Had to replace this on a friends car, dealer wanted £56 for part nut managed to find a part on skodaparts.com but had to mail them with chassis number first in enquires, came back with a price of £26 but had to pay £10 delivery but still cheaper than dealer and fitted perfectly

Sounds like the drop links worn ---short bar from anti roll bar and bolted half way up the strut looks like a bar with 2 small track rod ends on, if you change them buy original or really good quality the cheaper ones do not las, the only other noise i have heard like this might be a cracked spring right at the top mount on underside of the wing but you would hear a clunck when still and turning from lock to lock

Yes defo a welding job needed , I've not seen a pre-made plate for this area before so will need a good welder to repair and strengthen area, as previous post suggested get all the boot covers out and wheel arch liners could save you quite a bit of money doing this first and also check the other side as well that might need attention as well, sometimes checking out a slight squeak or bumping can save you loads of cash

Ask yourself would you want a blow out or flat tyre on the motorway travelling at 70mph + if your answer is no way then get a new pair of tyres !! looking at the tyres they look a few years old, this happens on rear tyres with front wheel drive cars and people should be swappimg front to rear every 2 years to stop this sort of thing happening as rear tyres can be on the back for upto 8-10 years which is not really a good idea, so take your mechanic's advice and get them changed seems a pretty spot on guy to me not out for your money just concerned about your safety

No need to book car into garage just check the brake fluid level with the car on the flat,there's a higher and lower level marker to guide you, DOT 4 brake fluid to top up if needed,, if level is ok the cap with the 2 wires on might be faulty or need cleaningor even be loose check these and give them a clean a dab of silcone grease on the spades helps keep them free from corrosion also check wheels as a friend who had his brakes changed at a garage was loosing fluid from 2 bleed nipples that had been undone when brakes were changed but not tightened up enough when finished

This is normal as when you jack the bodywork up the suspension just hangs down and the spring has expanded, when you put the car onto the ground the wkole weight pushes the spring and slightly compresses the spring and the top rubber mount allowing the strut rod to go a little higher, if it was moving 10mm or more then i would worry but this is fine , you can check the top mount buy jacking up the car and supporting the weight of the car then put the jack under the suspension arm near the bottom ball joint and slightly jack up the strut just enough to take the weight of the strut and then you can push/pull the strut end from the top and see if you have any movement in the bush,these can be replaced if needed, on some cars you needed to clamp the coil spring before jackinng upthe car by the bodywork i would not worry about this seems normal to me just perhaps uou have not noticed it before

Normal tyre presure on car should be between 30psi to 32psi, spare wheel space saver type should be 60psi-to 65psi, it might seem high but in respect my mountain bike has 60psi pressure in them so smaller tyres does not mean smaller pressure

The reason for no replies is that it can be many things,it's a matter of checking things out one at a time i'm afraid, most likely if you check codes it will say overboost or under boost pressure fault this is most common and is usually caused by the turbo not working orrectly and needs a clean out (sooted up) it can also be turbo air intake/manifold/ egr pipes weak afecting pressure loss, loose pipe clips cracks in the pipes faulty pressure switches but by far the most common is the turbo sticking, at the moment turning car off and restarting will clear fault but it will get worse and will be in limp home mode all the time, some people use mr muscle oven cleaner but you really need to remove exhaust pipe at the turbo and do this direct not squirt it in manifold, my mate freed his by putting wynns turbo cleaner in half a tank of fuel instead of a full tank ran car for 2 days and then prised arm on turbo actuater that opens and closes turbo back and forth untill it moved freely, when he stated it only moved around an inch but when he finnished it was moving around 2-3 inches it was stiff but he kept moving it back and forth and this fault never came back, the garge told him that the turbo had gone and would cost around £900 to fix but in fact it cost him all in around £30

Sorry to be the bringer of bad news but the bit that's left is the splined part of the wiper that's normally set into the wiper arm, if you have the new one you will see the splined part in the arm, I had this issue on a mates car and the only way we got it off was to purchase a wiper arm puller from the bay around £7 fit it on and plenty of wd-40 and slowly wind puller up also tapped side of puller with 2 small hammers and it then pooped off, can't put heat on t due to glass, when putting new one on silicone grease is a god's send comes off easy next time

Rear doors are a bit more difficult than front ones to replace, if you already have electric windows on the rear then no problem wiring willl plug in to existing sockets, the biggest issue is the glass, most Fabia's have privacy glass on the rear and different shades of tint so you might need to remove the glass from yours to put in new /replacement door, for this you will need to get hold of two bolts/screws to hold glass in place to remove guides otherwise glass can drop straight down and shatter you need to wind window down insert bolts remove guides and felt then remove glass, the door needs to open right out, you need to remove metal stay straps so you can get at the hinge bolts, don't forget to mark up hinges to put them back in the same place, sorry forgot to say door card and handles have to come off first , get some one to give you a hand door is quite heavy and you'll need a hand to put it back on one of you to steady door the other to put bolts in and line up door, you can put the glass back in before fitting door it's up to you

If replacing rear shocks rember to change the pair and I would syuggest also replacing the top mounts as well, replaced mine with a good quality gas/oil filled shock as the normal oil filled will dissapoint you, they are gas/oil filled on your model and they do wear and get weak over time , if you get 10 years from them that's pretty good going as the internals do fail due to age and use althougth they might not be leaking the internal seals get weak, mostly the shield part on the shocker breaks and allows dirt etc to get into the shock and then you have problems a good set should set you back around £90-£100 but well worth it as they do last longer and perform better than just oil filled shocks

Exhaust pipe repair sleeve stainlesssteel with clamps around £40 to buy, track rod ends arond £90 for decent make a pair but can get them a lot cheaper, bottom ball joint, I would change both anyway around £100 for the pair good quality, but again seen them cheaper, a decent garage should only charge around £200 labour for this work , you could save a bit by doing ball joints yourself and just paying someone to fit the exhaust part or have a go yourself you will have to cut old bit out and measure up but it is possable

Don't think you can get these but i did make my own pair from 3mm rubber sheeting and used a silicone grease around both sides was working good untill car was written off

One of the most common issues with this "lumpy" running is when cars get serviced or checked over before outting is they rush putting things back together leaving small rubber pipes off and not making sure the filter/fliter body and pipes are not correctly sealed so before you start messing around check these out or better still if you bought the car from a dealership take it back and complain that it's not running right as most used cars have a 3 month warrenty

Is this happening recently or has it been like this before, if ok before it could be the batteries need changing in the tyres, they mostly last around 7 years then start to fail, you should reset tyre pressures when cold as if you are setting after driving they WILL give you false readings unless you use nitrogen instead of air in the tyres

Talk to Darkside they really know ,wrapping foil is not the best idea to get the best performance you really need a egr conversion kit with metal pipes and so forth to get the full benifit in BHP

Don't know if this will help, a good friend had this issue and landed up being a clooged gearbox filter, a new filter and a complete oil change and everything was fine again, also heard of a leaking oil cooler on the top of the gearbox allowing water to enter the gearbox, in saying that the water level also needed toping up and gearbox level increased as water level dropped, think they replaced the whole box for a used one as not sure that the cooler could be changed on it's own but know this cured the problem with the gears and water loss.

Not aware that they sell a flexi pipe on it's own , you could used to buy flexi pipe by the foot from an exhaust centre and weld yourself,but was never really successful Mine on my mk2 broke but i managed to find a BOSAL front pipe with flexi and fit the pipe to the original exhaust, i cut the old front pipe out of the old exhaust carefully and with some exhaust paste fitted the new pipe, if i remember the pipe cost around £42 delivered much cheaper than a new exhaust, Bosal do an online exhaust catalouge but you need your car details to get any results to show

Try Horton Skoda bought a complete rear set of brakes cylinders, shoes and springs for £65 in a kit, if you buy the riveted shoes from dealers or factors they cost £60 upwards, Bosch make a set of rear shoes for £23 but are bonded but this makes no difference, average cost of a wheel cylinder is around £24, but I would recommend changing the 2 cylinders as just changing 1 can affect the braking and usually when you replace one side it's not long before the other side packs in costing you more money for labour again, if cylinder has leaked shoes will have to be replaced due to fluid damage to the lining

Looks like gasket is weeping you could just try and nipthe bolts up a bit as they do come loose after a few miles,if not try the dealership but don't hold any faith with them I have had many rows over servicing with new cars and do it myself once out of warranty then I know it's done correctly, buy a genuine skoda gasketand get it fitted the same time as an oil change that way you are not paying twice for oil

Don't worry, changede the same on my old mk2 tdi, had to make sure bonnet was closed and put lights on and heated screen to try and load engine to help it get to temp quicker, don't use air con as fan comes on straight away with this, sit inside and rev engine to around 2500rpm it will then take around 25 mins from cold to get the fan to come on, you will hear it and probably feel it working from inside the car, if you have the bonnet open it will take around 45-50 mins for the fan to cut in and perhaps longer as the engine is not under any strain and heat will rise up and allow engine to keep cool