thomasaspin

Sounds like it has a massive boost leak , should be boosting over 1.0 bar of boost on stock map , check for hole in intercooler / smoke test it

When doing compression test put a little bit of oil in the cylinder before testing said cylinder if compression increases will be pistons/ rings if doesn’t increase could be head gasket as previously stated

Murdock man is absolutely correct , fuel pump is under rear seat and has a screw top on the lid of the fuel tank it’s a literal swap the full unit job with a few connectors so should be nice and easy for a competent hobbyist with YouTube as a guide

Anything is possible , I would get a bolt on solution though rather than using a diesel turbo

Sounds like the magnetic supercharger / water pump , but the timing chain is on that side aswell and can make a similar noise

Got same problem with my caddy van , absolutely inaccessible to do the job yourself Mine kept stalling when first started , I fixed it by taking egr pipe that connects to inlet manifold and cleaning that out then put loads of brake cleaner down the orifice on the block and cleaned that out

No I don’t think so I’m pretty sure you need Kess by Alienware

Ram air enclosed filter or RTMG full kit but the RTMG one is pricey

It’s connected directly to the turbo under the heat shield front of engine

It does have a dual mass flywheel

Rtmg are the best for maps in my opinion

Great news , I forgot to mention please stress to the company you decide to do the conversion to use new flywheel bolts as the old ones are a one time fit item , also on driveshafts make sure you use thread lock on the bolts I didn’t and they came undone when driving and caused some damage even when they were torqued to spec

Best of luck mate if you need any help you know where I am , I saw your question about driveshafts if worst comes to worst and you need some I got the shafts for my conversion off AUTODOC as it was miles cheaper than what vw/ Skoda wanted

I used a starter motor from a golf r , you could just use the start stop one , it will just be more robust than a normal starter motor as it will be rated to run more frequently it’s literally probably the same the ecu tells it when to crank etc it doesn’t have the capabilities to have an ecu inside it etc so I can’t see it being a problem, better to use what you already have than mess about with buying stuff you don’t need , it’s either the bolt holes or number of teeth on the park ring what determines what diff you need I can’t remember as I did the gearbox swap in 2021 , the oem open diff is riveted on the plate so to fit a aftermarket diff you need to drill out the rivets and use bolts instead

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006253121843.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!80.69!59.71!!!722.36!534.55!%4021013dad17173414653557214d13f1!12000036480646551!affd!!!&dp=CjwKCAjwvIWzBhAlEiwAHHWgvWpMxklmfRxnYUHgw6aLlZA433olEAzok6433Ybj0sobYfS86jFOaRoCOHUQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&aff_fcid=ce89c20ad311499886f1342bf3f81b75-1717673188641-07514&aff_fsk&aff_platform=api-new-product-query&sk&aff_trace_key=ce89c20ad311499886f1342bf3f81b75-1717673188641-07514&terminal_id=ea007a97c3bd46a2aab6e1f8298b6438&afSmartRedirect=y just as good as the racing line one at a fraction of the cost of money is tight on the build

Morning , yes you can but you need to top up the gearbox oil as it will need more to fill the oil cooler and pipe work inbetween the plate and oil cooling radiator

“and I used a external oil cooler from rtmg performance when I did a dq250 swap on my fabia vrs so I didn’t have to cut into the cooling circuit I’m running a quaife diff over a wavetrac diff you need to get the dq250 taken apart and count the number of bolt holes on the park ring as there is two different types off diffs inside the dq250’s and this determines what diff you need to buy “ hope this helps should be easier on an Octavia as the chassis is the same as most vw and Audi models which accept a dq250 so should be plug and play you’ll need to do some wiring in the connector front as stated above , make sure you buy a dq250 that doesn’t have an immobiliser built in or it just won’t start pre 2012 dq250’s are the best for this kind of stuff , also make sure you buy a diesel dq250 for a diesel engine and a petrol dq250 for a petrol engine as they also have different gear ratios and gear change points in the map etc

Hi mate commend the gearbox swap effort , you need the starter motor for a dq250 you cannot use the one on the dq200 gearbox you also need the gearbox connector for the dq250 as the dq200 has a square connector and the dq250 has a circulator connector and

Be cheaper to stick a second hand cylinder head on , or too fit a second hand engine in , you can get a full engine for about £1000

AUTODOC

Its passenger side bottom of front end , in front of front wheel you need to take the bumper off to get to it

Hey guys if you see second comment from OP she states pistons had to be replaced , if garage are cowboys and used new pistons rings and did not hone the bore this is a classic example of the symptoms the op is stating (sluggish driving due to lack of compression , oil getting past control/ compression rings) also if any scoring to bore , another good point is if the cylinder head was skimmed to accommodate new head gasket , a bent valve would also potentially damage a valve stem seal , & a valve stem seal in my personal opinion would only smoke on startup like my mothers Kia ceed diesel currently does.

I agree I would be running battery externally under the car in the exhaust/ transmission tunnel

Catherine I myself am in Manchester and my mother had the 1.2L HTP engine and the same thing happened to her , if you would like some help feel free to DM me , garage wise I would be taking it to Ashton autoworx in lees oldham

A cause of smoking after a belt snap / slip can be fitting new oil control rings / pistons rings into an old bore without honing the bore also if the pistons did slap the valves then it can scrape the bores causing ways for oil to get into the combustion chamber , it would of been cheaper to drop a second hand 1.2L engine into your car than to pay for a rebuild sounds like they have ripped you off and I would be making a warranty complaint