thomasaspin

Sure is the Airtec intercooler is essentially a universal intercooler you are just paying for the name see below (universal intercooler same as you can get on AliExpress or eBay) https://rtmgperformance.com/collections/intercoolers/products/front-mount-intercooler-kit-for-vw-polo-ibiza-fabia-1-4-tsi-ea111

A universal one will fit just the same at a fifth of the cost

Hi mate cheers for the kind words , I have not had it on the dyno yet would be good to though! , in honesty I have not turned the boost up as far as you have yet as my engine is still stock internally it is the stronger CTHE though! It would be really good to meet up mate, probably on the agenda next is tighten up the mapping side , the dq250 map is still stock and with it being from a 2008 car the shifting is a lot slower compared to the dq200, I have taken abit of a back seat on the Skoda as in my eyes It’s perfect the way it is now I keep getting a few gremlins like my alternator has given up so might be good to change to a Wosp engineering alternator for the added power, but I have started a new little project if anyone is interested the first video is below

White smoke is usually burning coolant or running extremely rich fuel mixture

Sounds like a battery/alternator gremlin to me start checking battery condition/alternator charging voltage with a multimeter

I wouldn’t be happy with Bosch plugs over NGK/denso in a twincharger just asking for trouble

Brutal that , I really should start making a kit for this dq250 conversion it would be so much cheaper than that

Not to throw a spanner in the works , I runs these plugs gapped to 0.6mm https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/ngk/ngk-iridium-x-spark-plug-set-2-0-tsi-and-fsi-turbo/?cmp_id=1624059255&adg_id=61207848185&kwd=&device=m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2fPCo72L_gIVCYXVCh1OEgM9EAQYASABEgLfEPD_BwE

Both are great plugs , denso I found ran far superior to the NGK ones but last a fraction of the time as the NGK ones so I run NGK now

To be fair most of the issues can be fixed with the mechanical know how and determination and the correct tools , @Mickmartindid a full mechatronics overhaul and a timing chain replacement on his driveway, the hydraulic oil accumulator on the mechatronics fails by cracking on the thread, so a clever uprated thread insert and different accumulator were created, as for the op’s issue I would say swarf has built up on the gear selector magnets , causing it to struggle getting into gears/figuring out what gear it’s in

Cthe has stronger pistons & different oil squirter jets

You can buy forged rods for less than £500

Maxton design

That’s an absolute nightmare that I would of just stuck a second hand engine in and palmed it off

I personally would be going down the dq250 route but that is because they charge an absolute bomb to fix the dq200 mechatronics and the kevlar clutch packs which run more power and don’t wear as fast are also around 800-900 pound , lancs transmission in bury do fix dq200’s all the time so maybe worth giving them a buzz , but fitting a dq250 is pretty plug and play , all that is needed custom is a gearbox mount, and you need to cut the dq200 connector and fit the dq250 connector in its place , you also need to change the gear selector . you will need a pre 2012 dq250 (I used a golf 2008 mk5 GT 1.4 tsi gearbox) but nearly all dq250’s have the same bolt pattern apart from the R32 dq250 . Starter motor with gearbox . gear selector for dq250 . flywheel for dq250 I used a single mass but it’s a bit jittery so for everyday driving would reccomend the oem dual mass one . driveshafts for mk1 fabia I got new ones from AUTODOC for £150 .custom gearbox mount

Bit of progress on my fabia this weekend , car is running pretty much perfectly now , I had a teething issue with the gearbox mount and driveshaft but I have solved those issues now (hopefully) so this weekend I have added the greddy Profec map. This is an add on to my boost controller that will allow boost by gear, boost correction, temperature vs boost throttle position vs boost etc etc , I managed this by a cartek obd converter and the Profec map adapter and a little soldering shout out to Lidl park side for the quality cordless soldering Iron

The Dsg wouldn’t work with engine stalled as the spinning of the engine spins the Dsg shafts which in turn creates hydraulic pressure to engage / change gears

It’s an interference engine driven by a chain

Dump valve makes no difference it’s essentially the same as the recirc valve that came oem , just a with a bigger piston and uses a standalone solonoid so it’s louder , as for the r8 coil packs that is probably the best modification by far even on an OEM tune , you are right about the fuel though esso super unleaded and shell v power are the worse high octane fuel to run , Tesco momentum 99 octane is the best to run because it’s the most consistent basically you know your always getting the same level of quality everytime (sometimes shell v power can be absolute pants but other times it can be the creme de la crème) the plugs you are running yes they are good and I have run them myself but again they are inconsistent and don’t like a drop off in fuel this with standard gaps on this plug with make problems worse. well worth a watch on fuel quality

The crank sensor and cam sensor deal with starting the engine , if the car is timed up slightly wrong or the vvt pulleys wernt set to the right setting prior to retiming this could be problematic

I have not in the history of this forum ever seen anyone with the problems listed above sort it out by replacing the crank speed sensor as it just stops the car from starting if it does go faulty I will however eat humble pie if it is that at fault but I have had the exact same problems the op has stated in the past and both times it’s been either a vacuum leak or a faulty map sensor as these engines do not run a MAF sensor so rely on the map sensors for most things

If you read the OP’s initial post you would see it started doing this after a spark plug change indicating that a vacuum hose has been damaged behind the coil packs (common problem on 1.4 twin chargers)

As someone who has had a twincharger since 2014 I think I know the best gap to run mate , cars where failing with factory spec coil & plugs gapped at what you have listed

I run these plugs gapped at 0.6mm https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/home/119-ngk-bkr7eix-iridium-spark-plugs-2667.html

You should be running NGK BKrie7 spark plugs