thomasaspin

Having run both NGK and denso I found the denso to be a better reactive plug and the engine did behave better with them but lasted far less time than the NGK if you replace them every year each are as good as one another in honesty! On standard coil packs I recommend a gap of 0.6 mm to make up for the weak coil but on R8 coil packs you can get away with a 0.8mm gap as they are more powerful

Cheers mate LGM is a good friend of mine and no longer has vagcom or a fabia 😭

Hi guys boost hose blew off today and dump valve now won’t dump boost when hose reconnected has anyone got vcds that can do me a favour and clear the codes so it springs back to life ?

Also sorry to double post but soaking where the injectors go with coke softens them up for pulling them out

I find it hard to believe all four injectors have failed at the same time

Audi TT 312mm callipers are the best route they fit on the standard 5j hubs and all you need is the bigger disks and pads and your away and the standard alloys still fit

No it’s standard factory just not a common choice I have seen quite a few in the north west

That’s probably some BS number Halfords probably give you for sticking a tester on the battery to convince you to pay there ridiculous prices for parts

The battery just stores power it’s the alternator that supplies it the chances are it’s the alternator is on the way out

I thought the crankshaft dealt with the longer /shorter stroke so the 1.4 crankshaft will just have the piston go less down the bore whereas with the 1.6 FSI crankshaft / conrods combo will go further down the bore similar to what the rover did with the k series engine same block / head different crankshafts and rods

Cheers for the reply guys so my question is , what’s stops you using the crankshaft / conrods from a 1.6 FSI into a 1.4 tsi bringing it to a 1.6 TSI (with the turbo pistons) as the block and heads are essentially the same , could potentially even use the 1.6 FSI camshafts for an all round better engine

Bit of a technical question here but I’m perplexed how two engines with the exact same piston diameter/ stroke can have such different compression ratio’s (one for N/A one for turbo charging) which in essence are the exact same engine also doesn’t make sense what does everyone think dished pistons ?

I agree with Ken , the battery in a nut shell starts the car when running and you turn on more and more ancillaries , I.e lights , ac , the fan , fuel pump , coil packs charging your phone etc this is done via the alternator and if it’s down on power just slightly it will cause these exact issues if you notice when you run all your ancillaries at once it will make the car idle slightly higher as it needs the alternator to spin faster to produce more amperage it will also make the lights dim slightly , what you need to do is run all ancillaries at idle and make sure you are still getting the correct voltage from the alternator you should be getting over 14v if not this would cause havoc at idle as the car is trying to run all its designed to run stuff without the capabilities to run it, also there is a member on here called wino and I’m sure he posted once that there is a vacuum leak on the brake line that can cause a dodgy idle aswell so would be worth dropping him a PM

Sounds like the alternator/battery combo isn’t generating enough power at idle to me

Check my latest reply above mate ^

Check fuse 28/29 sepulchrave is correct as usual 🔥👍

Did the remove the original codes ? Try removing codes and see if it does the same thing tommorow if so they need to replace the water pump again at there cost did they check the connections with a multimeter ?

Hi mate if it’s a genuine part it’s either faulty from factory or my theory is that they will have damaged the wires/connector that go to the magnetic clutch on fitting it , did you replace water pump as a precaution or was the magnetic clutch faulty and that’s why you got it replaced in first place if so maybe the magnetic clutch was never faulty and it was a wiring / connection problem

Hi mate sounds stupid but if you have already had the magnetic clutch fixed have you checked the electrical connector to the magnetic clutch is plugged in correctly ?

Low battery does this mate

quite possibly the hardest mechanical task I have ever undertaken but all that is left is putting it back together oil cooler in place

Hi mate I wouldn’t worry it’s done 130,000 KM’s I would drive it hard and have fun , good quality oil every 10.000 miles and uprating the coil packs and spark plugs keeps these engines alive, it’s the gearboxes that are weak

I would leave the rainsports on the front they are a phenomenal tyre and grip on pretty much any surface best tyres I have ever had in fairness

bit of a photo dump but today was the day we fitted the dq250 just need to fettle the mount to fit and will be good to go

Please add a picture on the thread mate and I will tell you if it fits mate