langers2k

I'd try changing these two channels from 'not active' to 'Daytime running lights': ENG116936-ENG115880-Leuchte0BLK VLB36-Lichtfunktion C 0 ENG116937-ENG115899-Leuchte1BLK VRB20-Lichtfunktion C 1 Pretty sure that'll make the front indicators 30% for both DRL and low beams. However, I don't think they'll be lit when your on sidelights. If you want them for sidelights too, I'd try changing these two channels from 'Abblendlicht links/rechts' to 'Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht)': ENG116936-ENG115881-Leuchte0BLK VLB36-Lichtfunktion D 0 ENG116937-ENG115900-Leuchte1BLK VRB20-Lichtfunktion D 1 No idea if it'll cause issues with melting bulb holders, that's something you'll need to check occasionally... It would be good if you can report back to say if it worked or not

Start by posting a VCDS autoscan and an adaption map of 09 (BCM)... I can take a look to see if there is anything obvious

Not to my knowledge. Happy to be wrong though!

You need to have the unit patched to disable component protection and enable all features. You then need a 40pin to 52pin quadlock adaptor and an appropriate USB socket (plus wire) if you want to use smartlink. The AM/FM connections are the same. When I fitted one, I had to trim the rear of the cage slightly so it didn't foul the USB fakra. It might need a new gateway but I'm not sure. It uses the same facia as the Amundsen and Columbus

Add your details to I'm sure Pab will provide a link if possible

You can see the battery monitoring device on the negative terminal, this is only fitted on cars with stop/start so I'm guessing yes

I would sell it as is. I'd make it clear that: - it's been removed from your car and not stolen - it will need component protection pairing or removing - coding is the responsibility of the buyer You can have CP removed and all functions unlocked but I'm not sure how much it costs these days or if it can be done remotely. @pab567 is the resident guru but he'll probably need the part number to confirm.

Can I sell this unit? If you want to... Do I need a radio code? There is no radio code, it'll either need component protection pairing to the new vehicle or hacking to remove CP. Also how can identify which one I have? The part number? It's probably a Bolero or Amundsen, given you have a 66 plate, it's likely a MIB STD2 PQ style. I paid my local skoda dealer £130 to have this activated. Can this be sold aswell? For SmartLink? No, that's tied to your cars VIN and is not transferable.

Just as a random example that's not massively far from Cambridge: https://usedcars.skoda.co.uk/en/used-cars/skoda/octavia/estate-2017-16-tdi-115-ps-se-l-dsg-q4chayx It's a "SKODA OCTAVIA ESTATE (2017) 1.6 TDI (115 PS) SE L DSG" with towing prep already fitted. Not sure if it's the colour/spec you want but might work out better value for fitting a towbar to.

From what I can tell, you've not bought the car yet? If so, I'd be tempted to find a car with a different engine or even a towbar or prep already fitted.

That style of camera does not need coding. Have you contacted the camera seller for advice? Please add a VCDS autoscan so we can see what modules your car has.

Assuming it's dark, the light switch is on auto (so 'leaving home' works) and you get in and start it pretty quickly, I'd expect to see the dance.

Given it's a new model, it's hard to say if you'll be able to retrofit fog lights as per factory... The obvious things to check are: - do the bumper blanking plates come out? - are the holes the correct shape for the fog lights? If no, you're out of luck... If yes, you have two options... Option 1 Ask someone with factory fitted fog lights and VCDS if they can post an adaption map for the BCM. By comparing their adaption map to yours, you can find the changes needed to enable the fog lights. Be warned, SFD (vehicle protection) may prevent VCDS from changing anything! I'd suggest you try whatever changes are needed with the bonnet open but if the car doesn't allow the changes, you probably need a SFD token. I have no idea if some functions will also need a FeC/SWaP code as I believe something like cornering fogs are now available to purchase through the radio...? Assuming the changes were successful (there will be error codes) now is the time to buy the extra parts needed and create a wiring loom as per the factory wiring diagram. Finally, add the new loom, fogs and switch then enjoy a beer Option 2 If option 1 fails you might need to create a custom loom for an aftermarket switch. This will avoid all the cars systems so you'll only get front fogs, there will be no bulb monitoring, cornering fogs or reversing fogs. It'll basically be a fused supply to the fogs via a relay controlled by a switch in the cabin. If you're lucky, you might be able to use an original fog switch to make it look more standard.

The SD goes in the slot labelled SD below the screen. Doesn't look like one is fitted at the moment I'm not aware of any software updates that'll 'fix' bluetooth on this generation of headunit. Are you sure the car has bluetooth? Exactly what happens when you try and connect? What phone are you using?

Then yes, they should dance and there isn't any coding to prevent it. Generally speaking, the AFS system is pretty good at reporting errors to the driver so if there are no warnings, it's almost certainly working perfectly. A VCDS autoscan is always useful to confirm there are no error codes though It's also possible to miss the dance as the headlights don't need to be on for it to happen. Just as a recent example:

Bi-xenons do the dance to check the motors are working correctly. When you say as an optional extra, do you mean it's factory fitted or someone has added the after it was built?

Looks fine to me. The two little wires on the negative terminal are for the battery monitoring system. The actual negative wire is much much larger, like the size of a finger... As for the positive terminal, the main power for the car goes down the side of the battery from the exposed metal connector you can see. The smaller green and black wire are not standard. Somebody has added something that needs a power feed and used whatever colour wire they had to hand. I have no idea what they'll be powering but I'd check they are fused as the battery can easily melt (fire!) them if a short occurred

Assuming you have an appropriate front facing camera, auto high beam should work... Feel free to drop me an autoscan in a PM and I'll take a look for anything obvious to get it going.

I think it's 4x20W, at least based from SSP 890153 Still, I agree it's not oodles of power...

As Phil mentioned, it's working as designed for your RHD car, it would be reversed on a LHD My understanding of the design choice is as follows... The RHD ECE cutoff is the sort of shape below (where the vertical lines represent straight forwards): ______ ______ \______ \______ | | | | | | As default, given the step, it will always illuminate the nearside side curb, including any pedestrians, bushes, ninja cats, signs etc. However, there will be very little illumination on the offside curb. To try and improve this, the offside light moves slightly to illuminate the offside, poorly lit curb. A bit like this: ______ \______ ______ \______ | | | | | | This means the main hot spot of the light is pointing towards the offside curb and should help illuminate any pedestrians, bushes, ninja cats, signs etc which were hiding. By moving down, it shouldn't cause any significant glare to oncoming drivers either. As for it's usefulness, it'll depend on what urban environments you drive in: - in a well lit city, you probably won't notice it - on wide or multilane roads, it won't help - on narrower residential streets is where it's designed to 'shine' - in fog it just looks odd The UK, Europe and Australia have different environments and it's more useful in some than others. At least for me, it was only 'helpful' down quieter, poorly lit, narrow residential roads. Mostly as pedestrians could be on either side and would step off the curb without checking properly or even just walk in the road

Are you saying the battery has been connected backwards? If so, nothing would work... 🤔 Got a picture to explain the problem more clearly?

When the factory coding of byte 18 is 00, it typically means that none of the 01-FF 'presets' have the correct light config for the vehicle spec. Instead, it needs a custom config applying with VCP or ODIS. Where are you based?

Anything that can change the lcode or adaption channels should be able to perform the changes. I have no idea what xtool is or what it's capable of, maybe ask the manufacturer?

Some are black as they have a layer of carbon attached to the PCB 👍 So depends on the version, it's probably normal. Feel free to add a picture...

It's trivial to check the settings with VCDS. No idea about Carista... At least on my FL vRS, the reverse lamp check are controlled by: - channel ENG116964-ENG116404-Leuchte28RFL LC11-Lasttyp 28 - channel ENG116965-ENG116423-Leuchte29RFL RA64-Lasttyp 29