langers2k

If the previous owner fitted LED reverse lights, they may have recoded for the car from them. The fault codes from Carista look completely mad and don't tally with how VCDS etc show them so I wouldn't put much faith in the descriptions. If possible, I'd get the car scanned with VCDS as at least you'll get a more sensible description. You can also check the bulb settings for the reverse lights at the same time. As for dead short, the BCM is pretty smart so will apply a small amount of current first. If it detects a dead short it'll disable that light channel to avoid blowing a fuse. If a dead short occurs while the bulb is on, then there is a chance it'll take the fuse out before the BCM can react.

Fixed servicing is 1 year or ~10k miles depending what comes first. Flexible servicing is 2 years or ~20k miles depending what comes first. It'll depend on your thoughts about oil longevity and typical driving which suits best. As for grade, I believe this is from the owners manual but you should check yours:

Yes, the brake fluid should be changed after the first 3 years and then every 2 years afterwards. It's not hard to flush new brake fluid through the system. However, if you get air into the system you'll need VCDS or similar to cycle the ABS pump to purge it.

Yeah, you need valid FAZIT/GeKo credentials etc to allow access to the VAG servers I'm afraid. It's a long and drawn out process to get access and not cheap as far as I know Still, plenty of remote options given you've got access to a VAS5054a, they'll be cheaper and more understanding than a dealer!

Ideally, when swapping the fuel filter you should prime the low pressure side to purge any air from the system. It's not because of a fault code, it's to prevent damage to the high pressure fuel pump and other components due to running dry or air pockets... Filling the filter holder with clean diesel will reduce the amount of air ingress and therefore lower the risks.

Likely the sensor or wiring

Yup, it'll need CP pairing and then FeC/SWaP codes restoring. This can be done with a VAS5054a and licenced ODIS with a valid online subscription for Skoda. However, you probably only have the hardware rather than the software with a valid subscription? Instead, you might want to contact one of the various companies who offer remote coding. You'll still need the VAS5054a but there is no need for ODIS or a subscription as they will use their own I assume you had a MIB2 unit? I'm not sure if the FeC/SWaP codes are directly compatible between MIB2 and MIB2.5 so there may be an extra step to unlock some features

I doubt a small bottle Jack will be any more stable... I'd only use either for an emergency tyre replacement. Even then, ideally on flat, solid ground whilst being suitably wary the car could move. The one time I had to use the widow maker on my MK2 Octavia, it worked perfectly and I survived 🥳

I'd stick to the VAG jack, they aren't expensive on eBay... As a random example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401656650593 This certainly can happen unless you can spread the weight and use a proper jacking location.

I'd probably grab a good condition used one from eBay. If you remove your existing switches, you can check the part number to make sure you get the correct replacement.

Depends how closely the LEDs simulate the electrical characteristics of an standard bulb...

Yup

Gendan do the 3-vin HEX-V2 for £225: https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html

Almost certainly the latter I'm afraid

Byte 0 of the CAN gateway should be coded as 35 as it's a PQ35 platform car... Address 46 is a 'virtual module' and is actually part of 09. As such, it won't show up on an autoscan or let you do any coding/adaptions, it only exists for legacy reasons as some modules need to communicate with 46. Instead, you'll need to perform changes in 09

@J.R. why not buy a used remote key from eBay etc? You can pair the remote fob side but ignore the key blade/immo. That'll give you a key that can unlock/lock the car but nothing else. What happens with your normal remote key if you unlock the car with the key blade and then immediately use the key to turn the ignition on?

Post an autoscan so we can see how your car is configured 👍

Easiest way is to have a volunteer watch the laptop as you drive. For live monitoring: - Start VCDS - Select control module - Choose 55 Xenon Range - Select advanced measuring blocks or measuring blocks You then want to select the following, I don't think you need the group/field bit, just the description: - Group 1 - Field 2, Vehicle Speed - Group 1 - Field 3, Steering Angle - Sensor (G85) - Group 2 - Field 0, Sensor Signal - Front (G78/G289) - Group 2 - Field 1, Sensor Signal - Rear (G76/G77) - Group 2 - Field 2, Actuator Motor - Left Headlight - Group 2 - Field 3, Actuator Motor - Right Headlight - Group 3 - Field 2, Dynamic Cornering - Light Left - Group 3 - Field 3, Dynamic Cornering - Light Right - Group 4 - Field 2, Movement - Front Suspension - Group 4 - Field 3, Movement - Rear Suspension Your volunteer should be able to watch the figures changing as you drive along. If you don't have a volunteer, use the log button to create a CSV file of your drive. If you familiar with excel, you can make graphs to see what happened, if you're not, feel free to attach the CSV here and I'll take a look

Pretty sure the swing is an all-in-one unit so everything is in the dash. If you want a Bolero, Amundsen or Columbus, they are two parts units. The display is just a display and the actual headunit lives above the glovebox. I only mention it as you'll need to figure our how to extend the wires and possibly swap various glovebox parts to get the new version in.

I think at that point you just hit the On/Off/Next button a few times to complete the basic settings. I'd be tempted to log the front/rear sensor output along with the up/down and left/right motor positions as you go for a drive. That'll confirm if the system is working. The AFS system is pretty good at throwing faults/warnings so given you have neither, it seems like its fine? The missing startup dance is weird, I'd definitely expect to see it with the headlights on as you start the car at night.

At a guess, you might not have an AUX port or BT fitted

What diagnostic "gadget" was it? A generic OBD2 device won't tell you much whereas something VAG specific like VCDS might Where are you based?

From https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/870089/impact-assessment-measures-for-introduction-of-e10-fuel-stream.pdf Seems the gov expect it to be a similar price per litre but cost slightly more overall due to reduce economy

It's slightly less energy dense so economy may drop slightly, maybe ~3% and it should be cheaper per litre. Overall, it'll probably be a similar, possibly slightly higher, cost per mile. However, it should reduce CO2 per mile Figures come from a few google hits but should give a rough idea.

A MK3 Octavia should be absolutely fine on E10... From https://www.acea.be/uploads/publications/130329_(revised)_ALL_ACEA_SAAB_JAMA_E10_COMPATIBILITY.pdf: