langers2k

Looks fine to me. The two little wires on the negative terminal are for the battery monitoring system. The actual negative wire is much much larger, like the size of a finger... As for the positive terminal, the main power for the car goes down the side of the battery from the exposed metal connector you can see. The smaller green and black wire are not standard. Somebody has added something that needs a power feed and used whatever colour wire they had to hand. I have no idea what they'll be powering but I'd check they are fused as the battery can easily melt (fire!) them if a short occurred

Assuming you have an appropriate front facing camera, auto high beam should work... Feel free to drop me an autoscan in a PM and I'll take a look for anything obvious to get it going.

I think it's 4x20W, at least based from SSP 890153 Still, I agree it's not oodles of power...

As Phil mentioned, it's working as designed for your RHD car, it would be reversed on a LHD My understanding of the design choice is as follows... The RHD ECE cutoff is the sort of shape below (where the vertical lines represent straight forwards): ______ ______ \______ \______ | | | | | | As default, given the step, it will always illuminate the nearside side curb, including any pedestrians, bushes, ninja cats, signs etc. However, there will be very little illumination on the offside curb. To try and improve this, the offside light moves slightly to illuminate the offside, poorly lit curb. A bit like this: ______ \______ ______ \______ | | | | | | This means the main hot spot of the light is pointing towards the offside curb and should help illuminate any pedestrians, bushes, ninja cats, signs etc which were hiding. By moving down, it shouldn't cause any significant glare to oncoming drivers either. As for it's usefulness, it'll depend on what urban environments you drive in: - in a well lit city, you probably won't notice it - on wide or multilane roads, it won't help - on narrower residential streets is where it's designed to 'shine' - in fog it just looks odd The UK, Europe and Australia have different environments and it's more useful in some than others. At least for me, it was only 'helpful' down quieter, poorly lit, narrow residential roads. Mostly as pedestrians could be on either side and would step off the curb without checking properly or even just walk in the road

Are you saying the battery has been connected backwards? If so, nothing would work... 🤔 Got a picture to explain the problem more clearly?

When the factory coding of byte 18 is 00, it typically means that none of the 01-FF 'presets' have the correct light config for the vehicle spec. Instead, it needs a custom config applying with VCP or ODIS. Where are you based?

Anything that can change the lcode or adaption channels should be able to perform the changes. I have no idea what xtool is or what it's capable of, maybe ask the manufacturer?

Some are black as they have a layer of carbon attached to the PCB 👍 So depends on the version, it's probably normal. Feel free to add a picture...

It's trivial to check the settings with VCDS. No idea about Carista... At least on my FL vRS, the reverse lamp check are controlled by: - channel ENG116964-ENG116404-Leuchte28RFL LC11-Lasttyp 28 - channel ENG116965-ENG116423-Leuchte29RFL RA64-Lasttyp 29

If the previous owner fitted LED reverse lights, they may have recoded for the car from them. The fault codes from Carista look completely mad and don't tally with how VCDS etc show them so I wouldn't put much faith in the descriptions. If possible, I'd get the car scanned with VCDS as at least you'll get a more sensible description. You can also check the bulb settings for the reverse lights at the same time. As for dead short, the BCM is pretty smart so will apply a small amount of current first. If it detects a dead short it'll disable that light channel to avoid blowing a fuse. If a dead short occurs while the bulb is on, then there is a chance it'll take the fuse out before the BCM can react.

Fixed servicing is 1 year or ~10k miles depending what comes first. Flexible servicing is 2 years or ~20k miles depending what comes first. It'll depend on your thoughts about oil longevity and typical driving which suits best. As for grade, I believe this is from the owners manual but you should check yours:

Yes, the brake fluid should be changed after the first 3 years and then every 2 years afterwards. It's not hard to flush new brake fluid through the system. However, if you get air into the system you'll need VCDS or similar to cycle the ABS pump to purge it.

Yeah, you need valid FAZIT/GeKo credentials etc to allow access to the VAG servers I'm afraid. It's a long and drawn out process to get access and not cheap as far as I know Still, plenty of remote options given you've got access to a VAS5054a, they'll be cheaper and more understanding than a dealer!

Ideally, when swapping the fuel filter you should prime the low pressure side to purge any air from the system. It's not because of a fault code, it's to prevent damage to the high pressure fuel pump and other components due to running dry or air pockets... Filling the filter holder with clean diesel will reduce the amount of air ingress and therefore lower the risks.

Likely the sensor or wiring

Yup, it'll need CP pairing and then FeC/SWaP codes restoring. This can be done with a VAS5054a and licenced ODIS with a valid online subscription for Skoda. However, you probably only have the hardware rather than the software with a valid subscription? Instead, you might want to contact one of the various companies who offer remote coding. You'll still need the VAS5054a but there is no need for ODIS or a subscription as they will use their own I assume you had a MIB2 unit? I'm not sure if the FeC/SWaP codes are directly compatible between MIB2 and MIB2.5 so there may be an extra step to unlock some features

I doubt a small bottle Jack will be any more stable... I'd only use either for an emergency tyre replacement. Even then, ideally on flat, solid ground whilst being suitably wary the car could move. The one time I had to use the widow maker on my MK2 Octavia, it worked perfectly and I survived 🥳

I'd stick to the VAG jack, they aren't expensive on eBay... As a random example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401656650593 This certainly can happen unless you can spread the weight and use a proper jacking location.

I'd probably grab a good condition used one from eBay. If you remove your existing switches, you can check the part number to make sure you get the correct replacement.

Depends how closely the LEDs simulate the electrical characteristics of an standard bulb...

Yup

Gendan do the 3-vin HEX-V2 for £225: https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html

Almost certainly the latter I'm afraid

Byte 0 of the CAN gateway should be coded as 35 as it's a PQ35 platform car... Address 46 is a 'virtual module' and is actually part of 09. As such, it won't show up on an autoscan or let you do any coding/adaptions, it only exists for legacy reasons as some modules need to communicate with 46. Instead, you'll need to perform changes in 09

@J.R. why not buy a used remote key from eBay etc? You can pair the remote fob side but ignore the key blade/immo. That'll give you a key that can unlock/lock the car but nothing else. What happens with your normal remote key if you unlock the car with the key blade and then immediately use the key to turn the ignition on?