muddyjim

It's probably worth checking the brake/clutch fluid level first, as if the clutch hydraulic sytem has failed, dropping the car onto its wheels could end up with embarrassing results....

I can't help with any ideas of the source of your water leak, but I do strongly recommend you have your aircon turned on - if only to help dry the car interior out and reduce condensation.

Isn't the older Columbus an RNS510 as used in many VAG models? If so there appears to be various sources of Map update CDs available, though I'm not sure what the most recent version is?

?? I don't understand - or am I missing something? 6.38 doesn't fall between 6.44 and 7.44

I think that points to a clutch switch/sensor problem; I used to have a diesel x-type jaguar. Someone on an x-type forum was having trouble making smooth gear changes. It was discovered that a switch on the clutch pedal should slow the engine down when the clutch pedal was pressed down. I tested this on my x-type. If I drove along at say 30mph and slipped the car into neutral (without touching the clutch) and then immediately released the throttle, the engine would carry on revving for some time, however if I dabbed the clutch pedal, the revs would immediately drop.

Just a thought, I don't know these VAG engines at all, but I have had experience of other makes in the past (Ford Leyland etc). Is it possible that you have the wrong dipstick - perhaps one intended for another car model, and thus giving an incorrect reading? I remember on some Ford's their engines had different shaped sumps which meant having a slightly different length dipstick.

I have say that it is indeed possible to successfully paint flexible plastic. About 8 years ago I spray painted my beige pvc seats in my MG Midget with a couple of Halford's vinyl black paint rattle cans. They still look good.

I wonder; do any tyre manufacturers list the larger size as being suitable for your car? It seems that The European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation (ETRTO) frequently publish various technical documents and manuals regarding wheel and tyre sizes. https://www.etrto.org/home I have found one of their documents ETRTO RECOMMENDATIONS 2013 (there may be more recent versions are available online - I haven't looked) contains the following paragraph: http://pneusnews.it/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/2013-ETRTO-RECOMMENDATIONS.pdf

It is only the the later Columbus units (post 2014?) that can be updated by downloading the map data and loading onto an sd card. The earlier Columbus units can only be updated using a VAG/Skoda DVD disk.

I'd be interested to see any reports of these units causing fires

This topic (linked below) specifically the last post (by gyp) confirms which models had a shallow 'battery box'

Here's a video of mine (pre facelift). Ignition and lights all off. Just headlight flasher operating. You can hear the invertor/ballasts running too: flash.mp4

I just tried my 2013 (pre-facelift) Elegance in the garage and I'm pretty sure there are no halogens for main beam. With the ignition on (no engine running) with headlights turned on I hear quite a thump noise from the headlights as the beam shutters move. Turn the headlights off and they extinguish instantly, unlike the foglamps which when turned off have a lag as they fade out. Also with no ignition on and all lights turned off the headlight flasher switch works and the xenons fire instantly accompanied with the thump sound too.

Did you ever remove the rear seat brackets?

I would presume that models with memory seats would also have 'memory' mirrors (position information feedback) - which a standard mirror wouldn't have, and that is why it cannot be enabled.

?? The two pdf links I see worked for me? After clicking on them have you checked your download folder?

I think the figures you have quoted appear to be correct (I'm no expert - just using some maths!), but something you must also allow for is that there is a maximum acceptable charge current. Figures quoted seem to vary depending on the battery technology, and are generally from 25% to 50% of the battery capacity. So with a 70AH battery I presume the maximum charging current could be between 17.5A and 35A - depending on battery specs?

I used a kit like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185331738845 Make sure you get the right size fuse piggyback/holder though - I can't remember which one I used - sorry! The piggy back fuse/holder plugs in place of the fuse so that the supply is tapped off to the new cigar socket, then the dashcam power plug is plugged into that new socket. There is enough room to safely cable tie the whole lot inside the fuse box area.

He said he'd done that

Strange - it looks like the fuel gauge is still reading with the key removed? It's as though maybe one of the switches in the 'ignition' switch is sticking on?

It seems the earlier yetis had rear drains at the tailgate, and on later models the drains were moved to the wheel arch area. See: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2012-666/8/877-877020/ (and from the darkside!) https://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/threads/leaking-sunroof.2601/post-28834

That's not what the highlighted quote in the last post said?

As a matter of interest, what is the "Optical Parking System"? Is it the rear facing Camera?

Hi, You may find this howto post useful, It states the following:

I've not experienced this myself, but I'm guessing that (as you heard it trying to operate as you opened the tailgate) the problem is a broken wire inside the rubber gaiter between the car and the top of the tailgate. I believe there have been problems reported here involving intermittent/no rear wiper operation due to broken wire(s) in that gaiter.