Papez

under the coolant pump, it's return pipe from the radiator. MPI one is slightly different, it has only one inlet for the heater return hose, SPI/carburettor has an extra inlet for Intake preheating.

I think that's for the warm air intake, I think this is a 1.6 box. The photo is from the internet, It was just best one to show the Venturi tube.

Yes.

the part with larger cross section than TB speeds up the air? If that's the case, why they didn't make a gradual change of cross section, like the adapter you linked?

My guess is that it slows down the air before the sharp turn. It's more like a small plenum chamber with a 56mm outlet than a bent pipe.

Also, there's not much space above the throttle body, which is the reason why the factory cover is shaped in this way - I'm not sure whether would a normal L bend pipe fit. But I've seen people cutting off all the extra material, leaving only the pipe - like this. But you can see that there's not a big difference.

There's no engine cover on the 1.3 engine. It barely covers the throttle body. It's an intake pipe. The extra material is there only to create some structure between the mountings. If it was intended as an engine cover, it'd look more like this.

wouldn't the two fans interfere that way? The stock fan seems to have quite bad geometry, couldn't some modern fan with a better geometry do a bit better job?

The body shouldn't cover the rad - the plastic shroud on the passenger side is cut away with the 1.6 rad. Unfortunately that's where the condenser pipes are run in your car.. If the cooling is sufficient right now, it's probably not worth it. If you can get a good quality replacement once the original rad loses efficiency, it's not worth either. Only if you cannot keep the temps in control, it'd be worthy to invest in a larger radiator and all the mods that are needed to fit it. But in that case, I'd jump straight to the 1.9D.

I know, I meant its shape, they are often covered with rust 😁 Yes, I know, 1.3 without servo or AC had just fan with a ring around it, which cooled only small portion of the rad. I meant pipe to the condenser pipes/hoses. I still had the original rad. It still worked most of the time and I wasn't sure which brand would be a good quality replacement 😁

Where does the upper pipe go? I can't see it in the photo. But that fan shroud looks nice Enough cooling - there were instances where my Felly didn't have enough cooling (highway, 120kph, uphill, 30°C), even without condenser covering whole rad 😁

It seems that if you moved the radiator to the left, it'd be covered by metal - negating the difference in area.. Only solution would be to route the condenser pipes properly, following the factory installation - which would be probably quite expensive. @Thefeliciahacker Do you have, by any chance, an installation manual for the Alex AC unit for 1.6/1.9? It'd help to see their solution of the issue.

That's what I meant. I guess it's something like 20° at 50km/h. You don't add heat, but you decrease efficiency of the rad by putting hot condenser in front of it. By accumulating a few kilojoules of heat when it's running without cooling.

That's why it's regulated by a thermostat valve. The radiator often needs to dissipate more heat than the engine produces due to thermal capacity. Also, I have no idea how it's calculated, but it'll dissipate less heat during higher temps/lower speeds. The diesel is indirect injection with pre-combustion chamber - that means that more heat goes into coolant (and less into exhaust), which is why it has the largest radiator of the three.

There's no mechanism to retract the starter pinion. However, iirc, there should be interlock that prevents you from cranking, until the key is reset to 0.

Do you mean the fan shroud? 1.3 with servo actually uses one from 1.6, so it should be fine. Btw, I found photo of the condenser mounting on the factory AC. Pipes are routed through the body, above the radiator - that's how they could fit a bigger one for 1.6.

Can you move the condenser tonthe side to fit a longer radiator? The 1.6 radiator is about 10cm wider than the 1.3 one. 1.9 is about the same width as the 1.6, but taller. Edit: found dimensions and heat rating on jmjm.cz - although I'm not sure what's source of the information. 1.3 - 33 kW, dimensions 285 x 485mm 1.6 - 43 kW dimensions 285 x 590mm 1.9/1.6AC - 60 kW, 322 x 590 mm.

Is it as tight as a 16V engine in Favorit?

I meant that 1st stage thermoswitch would engage the fan on 1st speed when AC is off and 2nd speed when AC is on. If the fan is running and the coolant still reaches the switch threshold temperature, it makes sense to perform some action, instead of waiting for the pressure sensor or second speed thermoswitch. It shouldn't, the fan is the same as the one used in 1.6 without AC, where it's working only at high speed. Also, going from low to high doesn't put as much stress as going from zero.

There's a dedicated heat exchanger in the front of the engine bay... That's the best way to get the coolant colder, flat surface of the reservoir tank doesn't transmit much heat to the air

It's a liquid cooled engine. Cooling the engine bay doesn't do much. That's better than the factory solution and perfectly fine. Only improvement I can think of is some sort of switch, which engages 2nd speed instead of 1st when the AC is on (as 1st is already running with AC)

No need for that, since Felicia has a cold intake from the bumper. The car in the vid has the intake in the bay, so some extra cold air in the bay is desirable.

If the pickup is 1.6, it'll go straight in. 1.3 will need ECU loom and engine mounts (ideally the gearbox, too) and other bits from the donor.

The 1.6 radiator doesn't have outlet for the expansion tank and outlet to the pump is on the same side as the inlet.

Felicia has a big hole under the engine, I could feel hot air coming out of the engine underneath and the car - and that was with the weak motor of the non-ac 1.3. With AC, you have two speed fan, if it's not kicking to second speed, you have plenty of cooling.