Papez

There's no mechanism to retract the starter pinion. However, iirc, there should be interlock that prevents you from cranking, until the key is reset to 0.

Do you mean the fan shroud? 1.3 with servo actually uses one from 1.6, so it should be fine. Btw, I found photo of the condenser mounting on the factory AC. Pipes are routed through the body, above the radiator - that's how they could fit a bigger one for 1.6.

Can you move the condenser tonthe side to fit a longer radiator? The 1.6 radiator is about 10cm wider than the 1.3 one. 1.9 is about the same width as the 1.6, but taller. Edit: found dimensions and heat rating on jmjm.cz - although I'm not sure what's source of the information. 1.3 - 33 kW, dimensions 285 x 485mm 1.6 - 43 kW dimensions 285 x 590mm 1.9/1.6AC - 60 kW, 322 x 590 mm.

Is it as tight as a 16V engine in Favorit?

I meant that 1st stage thermoswitch would engage the fan on 1st speed when AC is off and 2nd speed when AC is on. If the fan is running and the coolant still reaches the switch threshold temperature, it makes sense to perform some action, instead of waiting for the pressure sensor or second speed thermoswitch. It shouldn't, the fan is the same as the one used in 1.6 without AC, where it's working only at high speed. Also, going from low to high doesn't put as much stress as going from zero.

There's a dedicated heat exchanger in the front of the engine bay... That's the best way to get the coolant colder, flat surface of the reservoir tank doesn't transmit much heat to the air

It's a liquid cooled engine. Cooling the engine bay doesn't do much. That's better than the factory solution and perfectly fine. Only improvement I can think of is some sort of switch, which engages 2nd speed instead of 1st when the AC is on (as 1st is already running with AC)

No need for that, since Felicia has a cold intake from the bumper. The car in the vid has the intake in the bay, so some extra cold air in the bay is desirable.

If the pickup is 1.6, it'll go straight in. 1.3 will need ECU loom and engine mounts (ideally the gearbox, too) and other bits from the donor.

The 1.6 radiator doesn't have outlet for the expansion tank and outlet to the pump is on the same side as the inlet.

Felicia has a big hole under the engine, I could feel hot air coming out of the engine underneath and the car - and that was with the weak motor of the non-ac 1.3. With AC, you have two speed fan, if it's not kicking to second speed, you have plenty of cooling.

But you can se quite clearly that the seal was doing its job, as evidenced by its outline on the bonnet. So either the heater box somehow shifted downwards or the seal got squished and you need a new seal. Or maybe pull it upwards a bit, if there's a space.

Steel wheels are made by welding two pieces together - so cutting them and weld them with a different offset is relatively safe and it's done frequently. Alloy wheels however, are die cast as a single piece. Plus, the material is quite thick around the spokes and not trivial to weld.

The seal should be on the heater box and seals against the bonnet around the lip. It's not clear whether it's present on your car, from the photo you rovided.

Just looked up the fault code - apparently, the BMM ECU shows the fault code everytime when engine is not running, as the sensor doesn't generate any signal. So the original ECU might be fine and the issue Is probably elsewhere.

There's no camshaft sensor on the 1.3 engine. Also, have you tried another sensor? I know you changed it once, but new doesn't necessarily mean good.

That sounds more like Immobilizer arming - SPIs after MY96 had it and new ECU has to be paired with the immobiliser unit. With faulty sensor, the engine wouldn't run at all.

Diavia might have used this housing later on, who knows, these systems were extremely varied 😃 On Czech web, they were always referred to as Diavia, with one exception, which has eventually shown to be correct. For reference, the original Diavia housing looks like this However, at this point I'd maybe try to make a housing for the original fan to keep the original evaporator box, It has one advantage - space for filter. Although it's not the greatest solution, having filter behind the evaporator, it's better than no filter at all.

These relays are specific to your AC system, they are not used in the factory wiring. It sounds like the radiator has hard time cooling the engine. It might be partially clogged. Or the switch set points drifted due to age, it's quite common especially on low quality switches.

Server fans? Knowing these things, it must be loud 😃 I think that Alex housing is better, Diavia puts the evaporator right next to heater matrix and uses coolant flow valve to change temperature.. Alex also has proper recirculation But looking at your mod, you might be able to make similar fan housing for the original fan

Did you also fit the anti roll bar? It helps quite a lot. You can also fit rear beam from Felicia, they were fitted with reinforcement "anti-roll" bar from factory.

How does this work? There was fan in the original box, guess it doesn't fit in this one 😃 Is it 3D printed?

That's not problem for sure - Felicia has a mechanical speedo. It's weird that the odometer works, the input is same. Maybe the needle sticks to something.

Yep, this is Felicia with a standard 130L/Rapid 4piston as an example. But I found mentions of aluminium calipers derived from these that were used on Favorits.

@vucko1011 I looked up how Group A brakes looked like - there was a 4-piston variant that used aluminium variant of Skoda Rapid/130 calipers. I even found some parts https://speedpro.eu/produkt/predni-kotouce-felicia-favorit-sk-a-255/ https://speedpro.eu/produkt/predni-adapter-kotouce-favorit-felicia/ https://speedpro.eu/produkt/predni-drzak-brzdice-sk-a-felicia-favorit-4-pist/ It looks something like this (note different brake disc). Ofcourse, the rest of the brake system is different, too, including brake bias regulator.