SurreyJohn

Since about 4-5 years ago, they all default to Normal when restarted There was a period when gear indicator would still show previous setting (but wasn’t in Eco). Eco only really gives coasting when going downhill, but tsi engines use very little fuel when coasting anyway

So the iV is saving about £600 per year vs petrol Looking at the price list (SEL spec) the iV hybrid costs £5335 more than 1.5 tsi DSG. (£34,800 vs £29,465 for hatchback) So it takes 9 years of fuel saving at £600 per year to cover the extra cost. Sort of implies unless you intend to not change the car for at least a decade don’t bother with the hybrid

Could be a faulty CV joint on driveshaft or even problem with driveshaft boot (which is why it only occurs near full lock). If it is a 2021 car then almost certainly a fault since manufacturer as wouldn’t have worn that quick If it was a 10 year old car then would be wear and tear

The Kodiaq is a heavy car, it weighs 1.6 tonnes, (nearer 1.7t with a driver in it, or 2.3t fully loaded). Do you really think 2 cylinder mode (effectively a 750cc engine) is going to be happy carrying that. The brochure has kerb weight with driver as 1666-1752kg depending on options A Seat Leon estate 1.5 tsi DSG weighs (per brochure with driver) 1424kg So for the Kodiaq effectively got the equivalent of 9-12 25kg bags of sand or cement as deadweight being carried around all the time. If you were worried about fuel consumption why did you choose such a lardbutt vehicle

I think you will struggle to get one from stock nowadays. My First Octavia Estate was bought from stock, it was in the showroom unregistered and we bought it, very satisfying seeing a sold sticker put over the price card in the showroom, then collecting it 2 days later. I would get zero satisfaction about ordering something from a screen for delivery in years time, but some people seem to like doing it.

I have seen something similar before and it wasn’t all the way around, but in a series of flat spots about 90-120mm with gaps, but just on the edges. Turned out it was country roads and heavy braking when something wide coming other way causing ABS to kick in, usually because in avoiding wide vehicle, were driving on edge of road where dirt and gravel and mud from field run off are. The ABS pulses the brakes, and the tyres bounce a bit because of the low adhesion from the grot on edge of the road. So I wonder if the Op lives in an area where wide vehicles (eg tractors) operate, or where there are no kerbs and wash off is often on the tar near edge of road. The problem seems to have become worse if they have become poor at mowing verges in your area

Primacy 4+ (the plus is latest version) is more a long life touring tyre, more comfort based The Pilot sport 5 is a stiffer sporty tyre, lot more limited range of sizes (between 35 and 50 aspect ratio, so not available as a deeper sidewall tyre)

If a MOT tester is doing their job properly, then your car should fail if you have incorrect size tyres (but some are sloppy and don’t check)

It will be marginal, but as fuel consumption varies with outside temperature you probably won’t notice

There seems to be quite a mpg difference between E10 standard unleaded and E5 premium unleaded. Some have reported about 8% better mileage (rising upto 14% in city driving) with premium I have seen premium from about 8p / litre extra (about 5%) to about 14p extra (about 9%) so usually seems that tsi engines better overall run on premium Probably explains why some can get nearer 50-55mpg and others are saying nearer 45mpg depending on which grade of unleaded they are run on

The VW Group seem to use really out of date maps My house was built in 2008-2009, and the road opened in 2009 my 2018 car came with a map that doesn’t include the then 9 year old road

Common problem with summer tyres left on all year The UV is only one factor, so is using them in cold weather when the polymer is harder and causes hairline cracks until you have driven far enough to warm up the tyres. Cracking doesn’t seem to be a problem for those who use winter tyres in colder weather, which suggests it is not just UV, but using them at inappropriate temperatures. Of course if you want to keep same tyres all year should be buying all season tyres

It sounds like you have activated the higher security of not scanning for Kessy key, but only opening with the buttons. It is normally switchable in infotainment. (From memory is in convenience settings.). The idea is that thieves with signal boosters couldn’t get in the car, because you have switched off the kessy option. About a year or two ago, introduced keys that go to sleep, (don’t transmit a signal) if they are put down and not moved

If you already have your tyre pressures correct, and the winter set are all the same pressure (even if it is different to your summer pressure) then there is reasonable chance won’t even have to reset on the screen. The indirect ones detect a difference between the wheels, not record a pressure in each wheel

And if you discover it is one of the earlier versions, be very wary. To be perfectly honest, if you can’t get later version with the fixes, you might be better sticking £2-3k in a pot, fully overhauling what you currently have using these funds, and keeping it another 2 years. Think of it as £100 per month for two years. Hopefully will be much easier to replace in 2024

There is no 1.6tdi in current Karoq range, so won’t be able to buy a new one anyway https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/c63f4efb-a760-4a48-931f-baad88d42aa6 The diesel in real world will probably do nearer mid 50s mpg, vs mid 40s mpg for the petrol, so gaining about 20-25% mileage. However diesel is currently about 10% more to buy (and about 20% of UK diesel comes from Russia) so price could go up if we ever get serious about sanctions Factor in the additional cost to buy the diesel. Roughly at current prices, the petrol will cost you about £2500 per year for fuel, the diesel £2250 per year, but fuel prices are so volatile, no idea when or if you would recover the extra purchase cost

I bought a different VAG group car, and the insurance was useful for timing overlap, but didn’t go with it as it was rather pricey compared to my existing one

I think an abs sensor is faulty, this also controls the ESP, and when car thinks it is slipping will cut power, which presumably you are noticing as a sort of stuttering of engine power. You appear to have the 4x4 and scans are showing 123,900km or about 77,000 miles, so it is also due (marginally overdue) it’s second Haldex fluid (and Haldex filter) change. From memory the ESP system interfaces with Haldex when there is detected slippage But it could be a combination of a faulty ABS detector/sensor and other parts combined with different tread depths etc, plus dirty Haldex filter (so not reacting as far as it should do) all tending to confuse the system etc. My suggestion is try switching wheels front-back, check tyre pressures, reset tyre pressure monitoring and see if that changes it. Shouldn’t be getting a TPMS light regularly. Either it will move with the wheels (get a tyre shop to check it, replace valve etc as have faulty tyre) or will still do it on same wheel which means need to check or replace sensor and look for broken wires to sensor

As for cabin space, there is a lot more equipment in there nowadays, so different people will see the roominess of each differently. Always remember a mk1 Octavia (which no one ever seemed to call cramped) was 4511mm long. Even a mk1 Superb was only 4789mm long. A mk4 Octavia has grown about 7 inches to 4689mm A mk3 Superb is 4861mm, but lot of that extra is in back seats and boot, not in the front seats of the cabin. The mk4 Octavia is a far better car to drive and ride in than current Superb, but (and it’s a big but) a lot of the controls and equipment are painful to use, or are simply unreliable especially in higher spec versions. As for engines the tsi engines work brilliantly with DSG gearboxes. Manual versions are rather compromised. Not much can be said about the diesel apart from it has seen better days and has gone downhill as more emissions equipment has been tacked on. Not really surprising only 5% of UK cars now sold with non-hybrid Diesel engine and most of those are big SUVs not cars.

In normal times following years specs go into production late May or June and start to appear at the dealers from July I am guessing from the comments, those that are delayed will become 2023 spec, but they are not ready to build those yet so are queued awaiting start of 2023 spec production. However it is advisable to ask your dealer what year spec you are getting, especially as sometimes things might get dropped (a feature or a paint colour etc), and if you don’t comment you might not get something newly fitted instead, or paint colour will be changed to one you might not want.

If it is leased, then get them swapped when fronts are down to about 4.5 - 5mm. You can hand it back with 4 worn tyres, provided none reach the minimum tread. No point buying 2 tyres if you don’t have to, but if you are doing more than about 25-30k miles might need to watch carefully and if required swap again to get you through last few months.

I assume the dates in first post are wrong and that it failed and was recovered in April. You are in a stronger position if the fault was within first 30 days and is still not resolved. However if the dealership has refused to come back to you within 4 days, then that is despicable, and I have no problem naming and shaming them.

Technically not true, you were not obliged to choose a replacement from an organisation that couldn’t deliver in time. You could have chosen a car elsewhere. If you were misled about timescales that is separate dispute. But as it sounds like your ordered car won’t be until some time in 2023 you have a choice of requesting an extension to existing contract, or handing it back and finding something else available and cancelling your order.

It is a silly world when Skoda design cars so their own main dealers are unable to repair them

Unfortunately if you request an extension, then contractually it is usually your problem to have it serviced (if due). Of course you are not obliged to have have it serviced and can hand it back during service countdown. But if you hand it back with service due indicated (or missing service) they will just charge you to do it (at top end rates) at end of contract (or more likely invoice you, and claim it by direct debit)