SurreyJohn

I think your dealer has not been straight with you, there have been delays with the iV model of over a year for a few months, so it is not clear to me why it has taken until now to let you know. I suspect the dealer has ‘forgotten to tell you’ so you didn’t cancel months ago. This is the problem with PCH (and PCP) they have an end date, which doesn’t work well when replacements can be upto 18 months away. You might want to look at getting an extension, or buying your current car from hireCo

Basically same engine, slightly remapped due to emissions I think the 110bhp version is euro6d and 115 the less strict euro6d-temp

I would do it anytime from about 8-13k miles You don’t want to wait until the fronts are so worn, that putting them on the back could cause sideways slides at the back. The main advantage is that all 4 tyres will wear out about the same time, so you can change to something more suitable for UK climate (tyres for all 4 seasons), rather than the summer tyres the factory put on. Those on leases or PCPs where they intend to hand the car back might avoid buying any tyres with bit of swapping, and paying for swapping is lot cheaper than buying 2 new tyres. (or it is free if you know how to change a wheel and do it yourself). Generally swapping tyres around saves money, as there is often deals for buying 4 tyres that can’t get if buy two on 2 different occasions. Personally I bought a set of winter wheels and tyres so they get swapped around every time they go back on, but because of the swapping looks like car will get to about 70-80k miles (based on current wear) before I need more tyres. Getting to 70k+ miles with just 4 new tyres seems better than some that seem to buy 2 new tyres every 18-20k miles

Maybe add (should be available in 235/40 R19) to your shortlist Michelin Primacy 4 Continental Premium contact 6 Hankook Ventus S1 Evo3 k127 But unless you are intending to use a set of winter tyres November-March then I wouldn’t recommend either of our lists, because none of them are any good in colder weather, grip falls rapidly below +10c in wet (and possibly downright dangerous if it is cold enough for salt to be laid on motorways etc) If you want to use the tyres all year go for Michelin cross climate 2 or Pirelli Cinturato all season SF2

Why on earth would you buy a car the size of an Octavia, unless you need 5 seats and/or freight space, if economy is your prime aim Or to put it another way, could choose a lower spec Octavia, save over £10k on purchase price, and think how far you good go with £10k of fuel (I think it will be about 500 of your 80mile trips)

There is a safety certification to work on high voltage systems, so if staff haven’t been sent on the training course (or didn’t pass when they did it) they are not permitted to remove the high voltage components to put mat underneath So no training to fit the mat, but training to remove and replace what is in the way.

If you have recently had oil change, did they put correct quantity in, or the correct grade (thickness) of oil As both the oil and water circulate around the same cylinder block (and metal conducts heat well) if you car is showing over 20c difference in their temperatures towards end of a big run, then I suspect one of the temperature sensors is not accurate, or there is a partial blockage in one system.

Maybe in the past, when people wanted boring, but since the lockdowns people seem to want colour in their life. My friend was considering changing his Audi, dealer said all the unsold stock is white (presumably no one wanted them), and all the interesting colours are virtually impossible to get as sold out. Looking at what is used and lined up at front of my local car dealers (various brands) Seems all the unusual colours (even blue and red) not there because they are flying out the door, and the boring colours like white/grey/black are the ones they haven’t yet managed to sell yet, so not sure why you assume resale value will be lower for colour.

Battery going to sleep was introduced about 2 years ago, might not be on a 2020 model. kessy does eat batteries, buy the best premium quality batteries you can, cheap batteries only seem to last few weeks or months. Top quality batteries seem to last nearer 18 months (I now using Panasonic coin 2032 battery, not cheap, but seems to last).

The 1 litre petrol tsi is better than it sounds, works very well (and is even better with the DSG gearbox). Be wary with the diesel if doing town driving and rarely journeys over 30+ minutes as the emissions system could get clogged, Not going to save much fuel cost doing 10k miles anyway, especially if Russia sanctions start (20% of UK diesel comes from Russia) so price of diesel might jump Cambelt is about £500, but many people are happy to defer it year or two to year 6 or 7 Spec is really personal choice, there were lots of cost options so what you get will vary on individual cars. Depending on what car you currently have, some features you might not have now, and chances are what you never had you won’t miss. Another way to look at it is the more gadgets that are fitted, there is more to go wrong. Young children are expensive and you might end up keeping the car few years so you don’t want lots of parts that cost lots to repair in few years time.

Scored discs are quite common, usually happens when a sharp stone gets caught and jams into the pad. Only the very hard stones do this, softer ones will disintegrate rather than cut grooves in steel Not normally a problem unless get very uneven surface of the discs, or the grooves are deep. Or get scratching sounds More an annoyance caused by poor quality road surfaces and lack of road sweeping

Firstly what spec is your car, the warranty price is often the same regardless if you have a basic spec, or a high spec (which has lot more gadgets that potentially can go wrong), so if you have lower spec your risk of failure is less. It is often worth considering the all in one (which sometimes has 20% off), basically gives you 2 years European breakdown cover and warranty and 2 MOTs for not much more than cost of main and minor service. So effectively getting the warranty almost free. If you consider a warranty, check what it excludes. A cheap policy might not cover what you need. The alternative is to simply set up a standing order each month into a deposit account, and use that to fund any repairs, if lucky will have pot of unused funds, but if unlucky and something expensive breaks you will have to pay up. It depends on your alternative savings and how your estimate of warranty claims. A car serviced properly and with preventative maintenance shouldn’t fail (and if a part had a manufacturing fault it probably failed in first couple of years whilst under warranty), but if you skimp servicing and don’t get funny noises or playing up items fixed, then more likely to get problems. Only you know if you are the kind of person who will ignore something until it fails. Ultimately it is peace of mind, the warranty provider is going to make a profit, so the premiums will exceed the average payout.

Week 20 starts in 7 days time Is that parts due to arrive in week 20 or pick up from dealer in week 20 (unlikely unless already on a ship) The big question is how long will it take to find your car from wherever it is stored and attach the parts, there could be thousands of other cars in queue for parts. All I can say is good luck, hope not to long.

I would get it reconfirmed in writing, if it has been amended to unconfirmed. There have been rumours of orders going walkies, probably bent dealers reallocating an existing order and quietly reordering a replacement. Actually I would ask for a screenshot with a calendar showing todays date, and double check your order number against previous confirmation.

Error seems relatively obscure to match to battery coding, especially if that is only error. More likely a solenoid is not moving fully, sliding across enough to lock the door, but not fully home, so it is not detected as in locked position. Could be as simple as locks need some lubrication, or a minor realignment.

This is a funny thread Bought a diesel, but want it to sound more sporty. No one chooses a diesel for the sound of its exhaust What next a thread saying prefer sound of a combine harvester to a tractor

You can set it to only open to any height you like, doesn’t have to be halfway It is a convenience feature, so if you have underground car park etc your boot doesn’t smack into the roof

Do you really think Board members order a car through a dealer. More like a top spec one delivered to a parking space outside their office, and existing one taken away every 3 months. Bet they have never been near a retail order form, or had to wait for months

Do you know how long it takes for a ship to arrive from Korea ?

It is marginal, and don’t forget it will also depend on which tyres you choose. Generally if they have Eco or Sport in the tyre name will be harder. It is also weather dependent, as soon as you get cooler days and nights, anything that is a summer tyre will be lot firmer than an all season tyre or a winter tyre. To be perfectly honest, if you find the ride far too hard, (rather than a bit hard) then need a tyre with at least 55 (or even 60) sidewall which means getting smaller diameter rims. But the tyres are usually cheaper which offsets some of the cost of buying the rims (and can always sell the 19 inch rims). You might also save money by less damage from poor road surfaces, potholes, and kerbing with deeper tyres. The 19 inch rims only advantage is vanity (looks) and shaving a fraction of a second when cornering fast on the cars limit. The disadvantages are higher cost, more expensive tyres, harsh ride, higher fuel consumption, risk of kerbing, risk of pothole damage, lack of tyre choice in some obscure sizes. But it is your car and your choice which you prefer.

Don’t forget the Goodyear Eagle asymmetric 6 is now on sale. But it is a summer tyre so expect grip to fall off below about +10c in the wet, and be pretty poor below about +4c in wet, and virtually useless in frost, sleet, snow, icy rain etc. (Goodyear make vector 4season gen 3 if you want an all year tyre for UK), alternatively use the Ultragrip performance from late October to April I have ultragrip 9+ as my winter tyre and it is brilliant, can drive on frosty roads and snow and cold rain like it is a summers day without any skittish behaviour

No longer produced for UK It is now Potenza S001, S007, or new Potenza sport

If you are in Portugal then stick with the summer tyres. Bridgestone Turanza are summer touring tyres, and unless you need sporty tyres (Potenza are sporty tyres from Bridgestone) then you could stick with them. Perhaps only sensible alternatives are Continental Premium Contact 6, Michelin primacy 4+ (not the older 4), Hankook ventus prime 4 or Goodyear efficient grip 2. But I don’t really know what the roads are like in Portugal or your driving style or the prices there to offer a ranking

You can check the MOT history for free https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/?_ga=2.13682674.414290667.1650899299-1364868231.1650899299 Seems to have had lots of advisories or tyres and brakes (and one fail due to split tyre), and a tyre advisory last month. I would look at the quality of the tyres, and suspect it needs a good 4 wheel alignment. If you are going to change the tyres then seriously consider a set of all seasons. Try and see if brake pads look thick (nearer 0.8-1cm than few mm) in which case they have been changed.

Is it a whole section that doesn’t light up at all (as if the wire to it has broken), or a section is only lighting up in some colours, or for part of it. Or is it not working at all First one obviously needs checking for loose or broken wiring Second one would need lighting strip replaced Third one would be the controller unit