SurreyJohn

So the dealer waited until the week of collection to send the paperwork, which means your delay is 100% down to dealer not sending out paperwork for signing when they knew the car was on a ship to UK. Doesn’t explain to me why they were sitting on it for a for a week or two or three then gambling on the finance company doing their bit to turn it around within hours. The reason why I said bending the truth is you phrased it like VW finance were slow, not the dealer. Especially as it seems dealer put your paperwork issuing as low priority.

Do you mean rear pads are 75% worn, as rear discs 75% worn seems wrong There is a high likelihood that the fronts and rear pads have not worn the same, whilst there is some convenience in getting them all done together, there is a good chance one set (front or back) can be deferred 6-9 months if you want to spread your repair cost. But you really need pads to be measured vs new size, and ignore the corrosion statement unless they clarify if it is surface (which is normal), or discs are much thinner than should be

There is a back story to this, many people were offered finance, but didn’t read the small print where the offer has an expiry date. Delivery date delays mean that a new application is often required. I think @apshep is probably bending the truth saying that application is awaiting VW finance sign off, because it is not explaining why didn’t do it 2 or 3 weeks ago when car arrived in country if previous offer had lapsed. Either that or it isn’t signed off because it’s not passed the latest credit check requirements.

All iV models are now at least 11 months, and realistically nearer 13-18 months There have been snippets of info, that suggest some of the wiring loom and/or battery parts were being made in Ukraine, and it will take time to source alternatives. Obviously some cars were in production before parts ran out (but if yours doesn’t have a build date then presumably yours is on hold for now) If I had to make a guess, then I would think end 2022 or early 2023, if you have not already got build date. Personally I don’t think by July will happen unless someone else cancels and you can swap to their car. Sorry, not what you want to hear, but drip feeding slipping dates is not going to help you plan.

And this is one of the unexplained oddities why the brake fluid they use in the factory is good for 3 years, but the same brake fluid used by Skoda dealers is only good for 2 years when located in same place in same vehicle ! I would suggest 4-5 years unless you are the kind of person who gets the brakes very hot by regularly descending mountain passes, or hauling unbraked trailers regularly

That + is probably more significant than the number 40+ could be 50, 60, 70…… What you need is a big number with a negative, (will be a happy surprise sometime before that date), not an indefinite forward date.

@dohboy78 What is due at 50,000 miles depends on what mileage and how long ago the last service was done. ( example If it was 4000 miles ago and 4 months ago isn’t due a service) The chart above says in small print based on doing 10,000 miles per year, so nobody can answer until know when and what was done last time, because some items are due at specific mileages, others after a time interval, and other items will depend on your usage (eg brake pad wear). Really some things should be inspected for signs of wear or diminished condition eg brake fluid, cam belt as it gets expensive changing them to a schedule just in case. You also need to know when you will be doing your next service, as some things will be good for say 8000 miles, but clearly if you will do nearer 15,000 miles before next service you are risking it.

Of course it is not going away, it is a voluntary tax (in the sense no one is forced to buy a car that costs over £40k)

This has been changed, when I had a lease expiring 3 years ago, it was informal extension upto 3 months max, and another 3 month extension (upto total of 6 months) conditional on having a VW Group order number for replacement car. But if you extended, it was your problem to get it serviced, MOT’d and continue to comply with lease terms

This seems to be the case (and there are similar examples in Octavia thread), where Skoda have realised they cannot fulfill all the orders. They basically have a choice of building a car for someone waiting ages at an old low price, or building a car for someone who ordered more recently after prices went up. Obviously they will get more profit on latter so even if morally wrong have little financial incentive to complete the old order at current time. Like others, I am now of the opinion that these supposed good price deals from a year ago are fantasy, they have no penalty clauses for being late, so doesn’t matter to Skoda if 2 or 3 or 4 years late. It even seems cancellation without penalty is now acceptable and they are rather hoping the customer eventually opts to do this. Of course if someone has waited 12 months, and watched delivery dates drift into the future, they might think they are close, but will they still be saying same thing in another 6 months. My other reason for suspecting these old good deals will never happen is that costs to build have probably gone up about 10% due to inflation, and if Skoda make about 10% profit on average, they might even make a loss if they try and build them now.

My standard answer is to ask what the rectification fee will be, this usually gets a blank look. So then I ask what is the point of having a fault diagnosed if it is not rectified. Then I suggest give me a price to fix the car, and if I don’t like it I will take my business elsewhere. Sadly unlike the old smaller Skoda dealerships when the person on the service desk would know a price (without a diagnostic fee) they now always seem to need to consult someone, such is progress. It annoys me that some dealerships seem to assume every customer is a gullible idiot who doesn’t care how much it costs.

To be honest, if you like the car why change it. Any replacement will not be new either in year or two so just deferring a problem. If your local dealer is rubbish, they will be just as bad at repairing any replacement. And unless the dealer has anything in stock it could be a year before a new car arrives (and prices have jumped) If you are concerned about cost of warranty repairs then consider the all in one service (20% off price for next 2 weeks), which includes warranty and breakdown and MOT for not much more than cost of servicing. But it might be worth seeking out another dealer, or even a VW Group independent repairer. VW and Seat dealers near you might be lot better so worth checking there too.

The diesel won’t give very good mileage for the short journeys (they only become efficient when warmed through) and the tsi will not be that bad on a long journey (giving high 40mpg on steady run) I think someone said the IV orders are suspended. You also need to factor in where fuel prices might go, diesel is already about 10% more per litre, and if we get serious about Russian sanctions diesel prices could jump (currently about 20% of UK diesel comes from Russia). So buying a diesel car is supporting Russian fuel exports (if you want to look at it from a moral perspective). In practical terms your choice might be limited to what stock is available (unless you don’t want the car until Spring 2023), the link which is updated regularly suggests a Superb Sportline estate is 12 months (or nearer 13 months allowing ship delivery to UK). https://www.marnet-mobility.de/aktuelle-lieferzeiten.html

It happens because you have rolled the equity from the old one into no (or less) equity in the new one. Let’s say (using round numbers) you owed £15k for existing car, but secondhand value was £25k. They have basically taken that difference and put it as hefty payment contribution into the new one. So basically you had choice of taking a nice big cash lump sum (the profit on sale of old car), or receiving no cash, but slightly lower monthly payments for few extra years. You might have lower payments per month, but I bet the amount you owe (total of remaining payments due) has gone up, and what’s more you will be older by the time you finally finish paying for it. But if you want to be able to save less for your pension but replacing car early that is your choice. In most cases, with used values high, it is better to pay balloon payment on a PCP, even if you then sell the car soon after and repay any loan you took out. The basic test is if it is worth more (which you can check on a site like motorway) than you owe, (the remaining payments including balloon option to buy) better to buy it outright. You are then free to sell it at date of your choice, be it few weeks later or few years later

Do you have electric seats, because I thought this option is the one that allows you to set the seat position depending on which key is used, so that it moves depending on which driver gets in.

I have already decided to wait a year or two to change the car. Which manufacturer gets my business will depend on who has stock, I am not going to join this factory order delivery lottery. I was much happier 25 years ago when you walked into a showroom and chose what they had, and they would register it and you picked it up 2 days later. Not pre-reg just a good price on brand new. There is lot of satisfaction about being able to see a sold sign put up as you agree a deal. So whoever wants my family’s business needs to get some stock that I can collect, and enjoy, not mythical unbuilt vehicles that will just cause frustration.

Not good, and just a different provisional date months later I suspect giving a build date 18 months after the order (and allowing for delivery will be over 18 months) is a strong hint that they would rather you cancelled it and the build slot is reassigned to someone paying a new price. There is also risk, your new provisional date could get pushed back further.

You have 2 problems, firstly you don’t know how much of the PDI was missed, and secondly you have worn tyres which may or may not be due to the transport blocks. With the PDI, write to the dealer principle at supplying dealer (email and recorded delivery) asking for copy of PDI worksheet, either it won’t have that part of the work carried out (boxes not ticked), or it will have been falsified and show work was done. If a main dealer is falsifying PDI paperwork ask them how they would like to compensate you, or would they prefer an official complaint to Skoda UK and if they are MOT registered to DVSA for falsifying work done paperwork. Tell them if they have not replied to your satisfaction within 21 days you will ask your lawyer to submit a small claim for all costs and fees incurred, in addition to you informing all the relevant organisations about falsifying work done reports. Hopefully that will knock some sense into them, because they have lot more to lose if they continue to ignore your complaint EDIT : May I suggest copies of your letter are also sent to Service Manger at the dealer and the Managing Director (look it up on Companies House website, if you don’t know it). mark it at top CC to these two. You are more likely to get them be more aware of the consequences this way. List the faults as advised by the tyre centre so they know what they need to fix.

Perhaps consider the All in one whilst it has 20% off (until 2nd May) For £612 get 2 years warranty, 2 years roadside assistance, 2 MOTs, and 2 services (one major, one minor) Would pay similar for the servicing and MOTs, so the warranty and roadside are effectively free https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-plan

It is my experience too, if a car has a choice of 4 wheel sizes, the one just below the middle seems best compromise of comfort and handling.

If you don’t want to swap them yourself, easiest way is either to get a garage to do it (especially if they have it for service at same time), most will charge about £20-30, but may be free if doing a job that involves taking the wheels off anyway. Any tyre centre will also do swaps, and check the pressures, similar price, and if you go at quiet times they will usually do it straight away whilst you wait (the only problem with this is you have to load the tyres into the boot before you go there. If picking up wheels (which can be dirty and bit bulky so not easy to carry) isn’t your thing (or you don’t have a garage or similar to store them) then find a local tyre centre that houses your seasonal tyres (they have a storage room). Alternatively get all season tyres which can be left on all year.

You only need axle stands if you intend to work under the car. You wouldn’t be able to place them anyway without sticking at least an arm under Wheel chocks are good idea, but wedging a decent size lump of wood or a spare housebrick does similar job (in the past I used to keep a broken wooden fence post cut into about 1 foot lengths and used them) The slackening of the wheel bolts about one turn before you jack the car also reduces risk of you shoving it whilst it is suspended. If wheels haven’t been off for long while then they can sort of fuse onto the hub, a trick to loosen them is part undo the bolts then wobble car side to side, or even drive it a metre, before you jack it up. If you change winter-summer about every 6 months unlikely to have any problem of stuck on wheels Having changed to summer-winter using the emergency jack first time (which works fine, but is lots of winding), I subsequently bought a trolley jack from tool station, but as my drive is block paving I put the jack on a solid board as it needs to roll a bit as it raises. (and if your board is about thickness of a scaffold board, won’t need a high lift trolley jack, unless you have serious off-roader) If you need to put the spare on temporarily to swap wheels around don’t bother to put the 5th bolt in (the locking one), it doesn’t need to be fully tightened up if not going anywhere and taking it back off few minutes later. Finally if you are buying a jack to use at home, buy the trolley jack, only get the scissors jack if you need a jack to keep in the car to use in emergencies

The emergency jack has a groove so the cill doesn’t get squashed, you can change your wheels with this, I have done it on my car, but you need to jack it 5 times as need to take the spare back off (or 6 times if you have directional tyres) Easiest is slacken the nuts about a turn before lifting especially if using the basic wheel brace. With a trolley jack you save bit of time, (basically saving all the jack winding time) but really need to use protection on the jacking points as the lift point is flat with small flanking tabs. You want to avoid crushing the narrow metal strip. A ice puck with a groove just happens to be about right size, but whatever you have lying around to protect is better than nothing, even a old folded up face flannel works. With multiple jacks or stands then obviously can swap wheels simultaneously without temporarily putting spare on first wheel. However if you are swapping winter-summer then only need 4 lifts anyway so can do it with a basic jack in about 30 minutes assuming you can change a wheel in about 5 minutes, with a few minutes to set up and pack jack away again.

Apparently the IV orders are suspended in many European countries At least 44 weeks is salesman patter, apparently new orders are at least 50 weeks for an Octavia, and many are nearer 60 weeks (14 months). I suppose saying 44 weeks sounds better than phrasing it as over 300 days, even if realistically will be nearer 400 days wait.

I respect your decision, but I think you have misunderstood what I was trying to say. I was suggesting that had the wheels been swapped a few thousand miles ago when the front treads had only been partly worn, then you might not be within 1000 miles of needing to change 2 tyres. Because rears tend to wear much slower. Thus you could have gone on through the summer and only bought 4 seasons in the Autumn, rather than now (giving you few extra months usage). However I generally suggest ordering all seasons by mid September (even if fitting is few weeks later) as prices tend to jump seasonally as weather turns cold. I do not recommend putting worn tyres on the back because of the risk of sideways tail slides, and by worn I mean with under 3mm tread, but putting tyres on the back with 4-5mm of tread on the back is not likely to cause the same problem.