SurreyJohn

Isn’t it the general warning to check Presumably to remind you cable is plugged in, so don’t try and drive without unplugging it. I don’t have an iV but presumably won’t let you if you do try.

Sounds like you need to deal with leaseco (VWFS) From what you are saying, the dealer was an introducer, therefore their involvement ended once yourself and LeaseCo had an agreement directly between yourselves. Therefore it’s VWFS problem to provide a fully functioning vehicle as per lease contract. Don’t allow them to pretend they need to involve the introducer (dealer), any replacement could come from different dealer (and of course doesn’t have to be another Skoda)

Mileage is a very poor guide to brake usage Someone might do 100 miles on motorway, and use brakes 1-3 times Someone else might drive 5 miles across London and use brakes 50-100 times A third person might live in a very hilly area, so using brakes a lot The speeds will be lower on second example so less wear per application, but could wear pads in tenth of mileage. I realise these are extreme examples but hopefully demonstrates that mileage is not main factor.

If your car has a fault, dealer has one chance to rectify it, not multiple goes. So unless this is a new different fault you can reject now because you notified them and they failed to remedy it. When you say your contract is with VWFS, I presume you mean a lease (PCH where H is hire) or rental. They are the owners of the car, if it is faulty you deal with them for refund/replacement etc. If you have a PCP (second P is purchase) then your contract is with supplying dealer. No one else. The finance companys only interest is loan being repaid (nothing related to maintaining or fixing the car). You have no relationship with Skoda UK, they won’t process any refund so don’t waste your time asking them. The dealers have their own commercial contract with Skoda UK, but it has no legal link to your contract with dealer (so an excuse like we are talking to Skoda UK is just a delaying excuse), how the dealer subsequently claims from Skoda UK is irrelevant to you and your refund shouldn’t be delayed. If dealer doesn’t like way Skoda UK is behaving, not your problem, they need to use clauses in their commercial contract.

I think you are doing correct thing, I would remind both parties (dealer and Inspector) that it is your clutch, not theirs, and they are not to dispose of any parts, but are to put them in a plastic bag in your boot. Your want all evidence preserved until resolved. If it does turn out to be faulty release mechanism, then I would say it was a manufacturing fault, therefore covered by warranty, and for misdiagnosing, dealership should cover cost of report (they have clearly saved by not training technician properly on how to inspect)

Yes there are codes that are set depending on wheel size, I’m sure someone has listed them in past. However for 16 inch wheels, tyres are supposed to have a load rating of 95 and I suspect you won’t be able to get 205/55 R16 with a load rating of 95 (or higher)

No, changing diameter from 669mm to 632mm so nearly 6% change on speedo Not sure which engine you have, but 16 inch wheels should have 215/60 R16 (diameter only about 4mm less) or 0.6% (4mm diameter difference is more than acceptable as 2mm tread depth changes diameter by 4mm)

I suspect driving style would have more effect on fuel consumption for some people Lets say you save 2% on a £60 tankful, which is £1.40 If that tankful of fuel gets you 400-450 miles The box you buy costs £100, so need 70 refuels saving £1.40 to get your money back, and it will take 30,000 miles to cover cost of box In the big picture, noting also have costs for servicing, car tax, insurance, depreciation, new tyres etc over your 30,000 miles is it really worth it. You will need to get a decent fuel saving to justify doing it (my 2% was an example) If you really want to save fuel, change to smaller car.

Don’t worry about the 91W part, tyre technology has moved on and you will probably find tyres on sale are now 94 rated (can carry bit more weight), basically as long as not below 91 not a problem. The letter W is a max speed code (168mph), but fitting V (max 149mph) is not going to be problem. I too would suggest getting all season tyres, any good brand, although if you want a recommendation then mine is Continental all season contact.

If they have had their one chance to fix the problem (remember they don’t get multiple attempts) then try the subtle approach, put both sets of keys on salespersons desk, and ask if they need your debit card to process the refund. Once you have notified them of reason for rejection, they have had chance to fix, then if they haven’t, any further delay is stalling for no legal reason. In theory if you go to collect a car being sorted and they say they were unable to do it, can get money back at that point. Waffling need to talk to Skoda or some manager is just bluster, if there is a card machine on persons desk, refund can be done instantly (card machine will need a refund authorisation code, but that is to stop accidental banking error being processed, nothing to do with principle of rejection)

What sensitivity level are you using for front assist (it is in the car, settings in infotainment) Basically the car is warning you to brake or turn because if you don’t you will soon hit something ahead. As long as you are watching for hazards ahead and reacting promptly you are unlikely to set off warning. If you have been regularly setting it off in multiple vehicles then (wishing I could phrase this delicately), you need to get eyesight tested, or do an advanced driving course because the cars are seeing hazards that you are not picking up promptly.

I would get all the wheels balanced, probably a rear wheel if not getting it through steering. Might be worth getting the wheels swapped around, certainly won’t do any harm, but if there is very slight balance problem might help it. If it still happens after doing this I suspect you have a faulty wheel bearing, so get it changed before warranty runs out. There is a trade off between 2.7bar for Eco (fuel saving) and lower pressure (about 2.4bar) for comfort. Personally I would be choosing comfort, If you want an Eco car then Kodiaq was strange choice.

Your purchase contract is with the dealer, so reject through the dealer. (If you didn’t buy it, but have rented or leased it then then finance company owns it, so deal with them) Depending on what your finance agreement is, (probably a loan) it maybe unconnected (it is not tied to that specific vehicle) so can be repaid separately (or you could keep it going and finance whatever you buy instead with it)

There are plenty of car makes and types that are not littered with faults Would you accept multiple faults if it was something like home central heating, or a new television. Same principle why keep it if it annoys you. Wouldn’t be first car put on sale about year before it was ready. Riley Pathfinder

Already a topic on this, not sure why need new thread

Now a note on Skoda UK website, revised Kodiaq available to order from June https://www.skoda.co.uk/new-cars/kodiaq/se Showing as SE (5 seat) from £27,650 SE (7 seat) from £29,050 SEL (7seat) from £31,895 Sportline (7 seat) from £35,805 L&K (7 seat) from £41,720 Just for a laugh went on configurator and ticked virtually all options for an L&K diesel 200HP version and price comes out at over £51,600

For that mileage probably best to stick to variable if you see it as a binary choice. However if you want to keep it running sweetly for long time I would suggest a variation, and set yourself an upper limit of about 15k miles between services, dropping to 12k max over 80,000 miles. As some parts on older cars come up at time intervals you might just prefer to get a service about every 6-8 months. Within couple of years you will reach 100,000 miles, and at that sort of mileage I would be doing fixed services about every 10-12k miles. Otherwise whatever you save on servicing will probably come back and bite you on breakdowns and unscheduled repairs.

If you read the brochure (smaller print near end) it actually says variable 9000-20000 miles. So can be less than the fixed interval if you do lots of short journeys and hills. However some parts (and MOTs) are at calendar intervals (multiples of 12 months), so for most people just getting it serviced annually is easier, especially as lots of people are 10+ miles (or 30+ minutes) away from nearest dealer so don’t want lots of little visits at random months The inspection is a bit of a nonsense as that seems to use a date interval. I don’t know anyone that sends their car in for an inspection and no service. And every thing in an inspection is done in service anyway, it’s more of a light intermediate service

New car sales do not need churning, just need certain volume. Strictly you don’t need to sell to same person again, doing so is just easier than attracting new customers (especially if you have relocated from a prominent site to obscure location in a business park, forgetting that will lose the drive by potential customers) Used cars are different, but only in sense that if a car is too old then unlikely to resell it (will palm it off to lower end of trade instead). But doesn’t really make any difference if you are turning a 1 year old car or a 2 year old car, just need a suitable volume of trade-ins, otherwise have to buy stock in.

All sorts of production problems due to lack of computer chips and other parts coming from factories in East of Europe where covid has reduced capacity. I am guessing whilst they can't even supply all the current range, unlikely to add additional variants until they are able to make them

Check what Pirelli you are getting, the Cinturato P7 range has been changed, can get original P7, P7 blue, P7c2 (c2 is 2nd generation). Then there is the new Powergy for cars, and the high performance range (P zero) If you are getting new P7 (original) it is a superseded design, and the tyres might be old stock, (you can always ask what dates codes are if your tyre dealer has them in stock). But not all types will be in all sizes

Not sure if you are still in France, or what your local tyre centres are like. Generally, if you want a better price, order in advance on internet (although some smaller ones only do by phone), there are companies like pneus online that allow fitting at a local centre (or even mobile fitting, where they bring them in a van and do at your home), you can also enter the size, or name and size in google then click the shopping word under the search box and it will search for you. Do not worry about 86H, generally will now be 90 (which can take more load) and V (240km/h max) instead of H (210km/h max) you can go higher, but not lower, and 86H are not really made anymore (so might be old stock)

Tyre reviews has done new comparison Michelin PS4, PS4S and Goodyear Eagle asymmetric 5 joint first But it does split between wet, dry, handling etc which might be beneficial https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2021-Tyre-Reviews-UHP-Summer-Tyre-Test.htm

If just want half litre or litre for top up Usually available in petrol stations owned by oil majors BP (Castrol brand), Shell, Esso, Texaco etc If you want bigger quantity then check out motor factors, agricultural machinery shops etc and internet sites

Also the selling dealer has a chance to rectify the faults listed, one attempt, not multiple goes at trying to fix. If they can’t sort the problem (properly, not some partial fix) then you can reject. They have no right to delay rejection, don’t need to consult Skoda etc, and should make repayment straight away (although expect some delaying tactic waffle from some dealers, ignore it, the law is clear, they had chance to fix, if they didn’t, it’s their problem now). Because the dealer will not be able to fix some faults (where the updated software does not yet exist etc), easy to reject. How the dealer subsequently negotiates with Skoda is not your problem (they have their own commercial contract and resolution clauses).