SurreyJohn

@Pal62v you may of only owned car 3 months and added 1000 miles, but if a service indicator is now counting down then it wasn’t done when it was sold to you. The Government MOT checker should indicate it’s mileage at third birthday so that might give you more of a clue how many miles done in last year, assuming your car is now about 4 years old. Generally if you do lots of short journeys, then annual services are best, the extended scope is normally alternate years so will be needed at 4th year. At 35000 miles can probably hold off on changing spark plugs for a year. Brake fluid can be tested by dealer (might have been done at end of year 3), but if still original probably need doing. Brake pad wear will depend on usage (and how hilly it was where previous owner lived). You can choose what else you want to add, if front tyres are wearing faster then good idea to rotate wheels to even out the wear. But if they want to charge lots get it done at tyre depot instead. (Should be free if doing brake pads as wheels will be taken off anyway) One thing I always do, is get a print out both of work done and cumulative history when I pay bill at pick up after service. Then next year you will have a record and know what was done as you will have forgotten in 12 months time.

Fabia mk1 wheels need to be 5 bolt 100 PCD with 57.1 centre bore I think any will fit from 15 to 17 inch (from memory 14 inch also existed, but not on estate). I think wheels from Polo or Ibiza might also fit Obviously tyre technology has moved on in 17 years, but need at least 82 for load rating. It appears you are In Northumberland so either get all season or winter tyres. 195/50 R15 82H or 195/45 R16 82H tyres, optional 205/45 R16 82V or 205/40 R17 82V. might find limited choice in some of these sizes nowadays

It sounds like a faulty sensor in the engine, making it think engine is running differently to how it expects (fuel / air gas mix or at an odd temperature). If the throttle is only doing things in first gear, might be a sticky brake, or the hill hold related problem. From your description it could even be something physical with the pedal not moving freely Hope dealer finds the fault (get them to scan for all fault codes), and fixes it.

Skoda have been trucking cars (missing parts) to storage, even rented part of an airfield. It’s thousands of cars. And they haven’t even attempted to build some as multiple parts are missing (Op sounds like he/she is in this category). However are apparently building what they can of the specs they have parts for. There have been suggestions that orders placed for some models now, won’t be built until at least January.

I would be making them do full PDI again, what else did they not bother with : tyre pressures, torque the wheel bolts, fluid level checks etc

Some cars have been built, but are missing parts. Skoda have leased space at Hradec Kralove Airport and are trucking vehicles there for storage https://www.newsy-today.com/skoda-stores-unfinished-cars-at-hradec-kralove-airport-chips-are-missing/

If your reason for rejection was a fault, and the fault was fixed first time, then simple answer is no if over the 30 days. (As Car is now of satisfactory quality) If you had listed multiple faults and only fixed some of them, then by default dealer hasn’t been able to fix (all) the faults so yes. Of course if something else now doesn’t work, you can list it, give one chance to fix, and if not fixed, reject

I would guess if the mid life facelift is expected in the Autumn, then unlikely to be changing the spec in the summer And if they do it will something very minor in interim My own hunch is the revised interior will get a mix of Octavia 4 and new Fabia 4 (due at end of year) parts, but looking more like a Kodiaq facelift as I can't see any reason for this to be fundamentally different in operation inside. Its obviously cheaper to build all the models in a similar way.

@Aston100 On a leased car, often easier to hand it back few days early than pay for a service that is pending, (the basic rule is can have service countdown warning showing, but not service now at handback), so buying the service package is a bad deal, because the package only works if you do a suitable mileage and have the car for the period in which you can utilise what you signed up to. Otherwise just pay for the servicing when it is done. The Brochure describes following (but it is in Additional information towards the end so copying it here for your ease) Note with flexible service intervals can be as low as every 9000 miles Service intervals When you order your OCTAVIA, you can choose whether your car is on a fixed or a flexible service regime. Your ŠKODA retailer will help you decide which regime suits how your car will be driven, enabling your car to stay in the best possible shape. Fixed regime: service every 10,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first). This is recommended if the vehicle is likely to be used in the following way: > Driven fewer than 10,000 miles per annum. > Mainly short journeys, driven mostly in towns or cities. > High vehicle loading/towing and frequent hill climbs. > Heavy accelerating and braking, using high revs. Flexible regime: Sensors in the engine detect when a service is needed. A service light will show between 9,000 and 20,000 miles or up to 24 months (whichever comes first). The flexible service regime is recommended for vehicles with a daily mileage of more than 25 miles where the vehicle is driven regularly and mainly at a constant speed with minimum vehicle and engine loading, minimal towing and driven in an economical manner https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/0bcfc2d5-654f-49b2-a524-91e141293e36

Mileage is poor indication of brake pad usage. Someone who lives in a City might be encountering traffic lights every quarter mile, but someone else in quiet part of country might drive 30 miles on easy roads / motorway and only use brakes couple of times. You will get better idea accurately measuring tyre tread depth (and check the 4 digit date code, if not all same, then some tyres have been changed to mask wear). A sensible user will not have needed to buy new tyres if offloading car at 15k miles unless they got a puncture or damaged one.

They are supposed to be set correctly at the PDI pre delivery inspection, clearly part of your PDI wasn’t done. The bigger problem is what else got missed, you could either ask supplying dealer for copy of PDI inspection sheet (and presumably the check tyre pressure box is not ticked), or it has been falsified (marked as complete even though some things weren’t done). If it has been falsified I would send the dealer a demand to redo the whole PDI free of charge because might be something else (wrong fluid level etc) and they don’t know what wasn’t done and what got missed. The checklist is there for a reason, could be lots of things that got missed.

The 220 and 190 are not underpowered for everyday driving, Of course if you want to drive like it’s a sports car then not quite as good, but the extra power of 280 is all near top of Rev band so only ever likely to use it for short bursts @AndreasZ If your old car was a BMW 320d then I assume you didn’t pick the engine for using like a sports car, (you would have have 330, 335 etc) so probably won’t miss the extra power if you buy 190 or 220 As for wheel spin, a lot depends on the tyres, the factory fit summer tyres really do not like cold rain (or sleet, frost, snow) so putting premium all season tyres will help.

Now appears the Citigo electric sister car, the Seat Mii is only available from existing stock No idea why the Skoda version was pulled about 16 months before the Seat version in UK. Must be something to do with VW Group politics

Just leave the aircon on all year on auto. It has an air dryer which helps with demisting Our 10 year old Roomster still blows cold air, never turn a/c off, never had a/c service, never needed a top up. What’s point in saving few pounds of fuel then paying out hundreds to repair because left it off for months and seals dried out.

The tyres as fitted (Bridgestone Potenza Sport) are what it says on the tin, sporty summer tyres. (Potenza is the performance tyre, Turanza is Bridgestone’s summer touring tyre) Not sure how you use your 1 litre Fabia, and these tyres are great for throwing the car around on warmer days on winding B roads. But they are not comfort biased tyres, and neither are they all year tyres. I am guessing @wilson-uk-85 has never swapped tyres front-back which is why you have worn the fronts, but backs are ok. Not sure what tread depths are but ideally should be considering if you really want summer sporty tyres, rather than all seasons etc.

Not sure where you are getting this from The Czech configurator and brochure only shows one MPI version in new Fabia, the 59kW with 5speed manual (which is 79hp) There is also a 70kW tsi 5speed (94 HP) and 81kW tsi 6gear manual or 7 gear DSG (109HP) I understand a 1.5tsi DSG (150HP) is also due I think it looks stunning in the darkish orange metallic, I can see why they have used this for the brochure https://www.skoda-auto.cz/modely/nova-fabia/nova-fabia

There are a number of Skoda wheels in various sizes for Kodiaq, some of which have never been sold on new cars in UK. These are available as accessories and spares (and are in some of the European accessories brochures). How you drive the vehicle will be relevant, if you are spirited and try and drive it like a sports car on winding roads you will notice the smaller wheels. But you won’t in everyday driving. But it works both ways, on my car (not a Kodiaq) I have 16 inch winter wheels with 60 aspect tyres, and in Spring when I change back to 18 inch wheels with 45 tyres, I find the ride harsh and lot more rumbling when on poor tarmac. I use Borbet Y wheels which fit with original bolts. @Tier I suspect if comfort is your thing, rather than go-cart handling, then get 17 inch, the tyres are a more standard size as well, so more choice and better price (but, from memory if you have the big engine, can’t have 17 inch as brakes too big) Borbet do handy configurator to what fits, see link https://www.borbet.de/en/configurator#249446799!16AC279 If you want tyre recommendations, there are plenty in tyres threads in technical section https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/213-tyres-zone/

The 1 litre tsi is a very good engine, works best with the 7 speed DSG Without knowing how you will use the car, the engine should be sufficient. However if you regularly carry lots of stuff, and carry lots of people, or live in a very hilly area then probably want to choose a bigger engine. If you encounter lots of start-stop or rush hour traffic, then you will probably find a manual gearbox hard work, as the engine doesn’t pull that well below about 1500 revs (but whatever gearbox you pick, will find it pulls much better on super unleaded)

You might be lucky with an auto locksmith. There are a few bigger places that can cut the keys, but might not be able to do the coding. I have a vague recollection someone mentioned some of the bigger Timpsons branches can make up a new key and copy it from second key. What they can’t do is recode the vehicle if you have lost a key and need to change the code for security to stop key finder driving off

How can you do that, unless you sit twisted, one shoulder would be higher than other. I assume you don’t do something daft like put fat wallet in back pocket so bum isn’t flat. Always remember to get your legs and lower back comfortable by adjusting seat base first, only when that bit is correct do you start moving seat back and steering wheel to get optimum angles for shoulders and elbows. (You can move steering wheel, but not the pedals, so doesn’t work other way round) If you work for a big company they sometimes have someone trained on seat and chair comfort who will check with you to set things up properly (because they don’t want to have backache etc)

You will find that the 1.0tsi is really improved if you use super unleaded. It pulls much better at lower revs. Surprisingly I have found 99ron seems to improve mileage by about 11-13% in mixed driving which offsets its extra cost

Another oddity is the service schedule doesn’t show the air filter at 4 years or 40k miles, and what is environmental (disposal of technicians coffee cup or similar ?)

This is not true, there are some exclusions (see small print on bottom of this), and it does say participating dealers only (maybe yours doesn't participate), especially as their prices are higher than indicated https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/8b70c541-726b-4996-9999-66ebc7ca520b Full details are here https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price

I have a Seat Arona with 1.0tsi 115, done 26k miles in nearly 3 years, never needed a drop of oil. As far as I know has a GPF as they were fitted to this model from launch end 2017 Very good engine, and brilliant with DSG, and for first 2 years was used for commute in SW London so had plenty of short journeys from cold.

If all you do is short school runs then any euro6 diesel with DPF will clog up. It’s even more likely with car rated to euro6d (so be wary of anyone saying they managed with early euro6 car), Once it starts to clog it will just get worse. Having it in an almost continuous wants to do a regen as soon as warm enough mode is going to use more fuel. You are either going to have to take it for long run at intervals, or simply avoid the problem and get a petrol (or an electric) car. If you only want a local runaround then leasing a new (or newish) car is unlikely to be best solution, get something older, use part of the money for proper full service and save overall. Appears op lives in Scotland so change the tyres to all seasons or winters. If you leased a car it will have Eco summer tyres on (pretty hopeless in wet below about +9c), so wouldn’t have got your kids to school in snow anyway.