freemansteve

Lots of this on the Up owners forum...

Early models are known to have poor bulkhead sealing - check on the Up! owners forum....

use a mirror on a telescopic stick. useful & super-cheap to own for many purposes.

Fuse potions vary by model year. It takes 5mins to pull and replace all the fuses to look for a blown one, if all else fails.

Ignore it - it's nag to get you to give money to a dealer for way-too-early oil changes. You can simply reset it with the dash buttons.

Could be the clutch, but likely to be hydraulics.

Well covered on the Up! owners web site....

DAB irrelevant to speakers. All Up!s/ Mii/ Citigo use the same speakers, some have more speakers. Search on the Up! owners forum - lots of people upgrading there...

Is the aux socket not just a simple analogue jack socket? Maybe a bad contact - try spraying into it with Electrolube or similar

Maybe ignition switch? A known failure.

Get the twin headlight units (breakers?) - a big improvement for night driving.

Look on the Up! owners forum - endless stuff there on there on this topic.

May not be a fuse. They rarely blow for no reason. I suggest either the resistor pack in the fan control has blown, or possibly the ignition switch has failed. Both are know problems.

"hooked it up with the cables to his Mercedes E class for about 15 mins" As commented above... That may be OK, if for some reason you had flattened the battery and you needed to get it jump started. But really, there is a point at which your battery voltage can get so low that it is irreparably damaged. Or just age. - it may longer hold charge well. It has been discovered by some users with the ASG that the computer which controls the mechanism gets flaky if the battery is not in good nick, like many CPU-based things can go 'odd'. The solenoids, which are inductive, put a huge sudden load on the battery which can drop the voltage further, and even for an instant, that can be enough to upset the CPU - and I suspect the ASG controller has not been engineered to have a robust DC-DC converter and power reservoir, which should have guaranteed the internals get enough volts, even if your battery is lower than normal... That is all speculation though, and it may be that none of the above is relevant and the clutch is truly overheating, which means it is slipping. You may even smell it! Likely reasons are: 1) The clutch friction plates are worn out (need new clutch) 2) The clutch finger springs are failing (need new clutch - and weak finger springs are a known fault on pre-facelift Citigo/Up! cars) 3) The actuation solenoid for the clutch is faulty and is preventing the clutch from engaging firmly. 4) The actuation mechanism is out of calibration and needs checking [3 & 4 may have damaged the clutch and it may need replacing] As for general engine overheating, that most often comes down to one of: 1) Lack of cooling water in the radiator (a leak) 2) Thermostat gone faulty (there are two on the Citigo/Up!) 3) Electric radiator fan not coming on (fuse, or failed relay or fan motor) While some people love their ASGs and have had no trouble, problems do seem to come up a lot with that 'box (pro-rata), and because it is a rare unit, getting help is hard to find and expensive. If you can change the car at some point, I would go for a manual - if you can get the face-lift version, that is. If you have to have an auto, get a different car with a proper torque converter-type or CVT-type auto box - they are almost certainly more reliable than the bodge that is the ASG, and far smoother to drive.

The F/L SE-L model has LED DRLs which should be on brightly if the ignition is on. They are dual brightness. When you turn on the sidelights, with ign on, the DRLs stay bright, but the rear tail lights also come on. When you turn on the main headlights the DRLs dim. When you park, ignition off, and turn on the lights, to the sidelights position, the DRLs are on dim, and the tail lights on. When you use the indicator stalk to L or R, then when parked, you get one side other, dim DRL and tail light.

Weird one - the auto is basically just a standard gearbox with a solenoid actuated changer and clutch. Intrigued by "charging up the battery"... How old is the battery? It may start the car but these autos are quite fussy about having good batteries (at least the computer controller is fussy). There's a chance your battery is dying.

yes, because the H4 is twin filament. The H7 is a single and fits Citigos with the excellent twin-lamp headlight units (i.e 4x H7 is total)

Easiest on a windows or linux PC, rather than an app on a phone. You can use 7Zip, WinZip, WinRAR etc.....

Yes.... But you'd have to be very good at de-soldering the tiny surface-mount LEDs from the panel PCB, and sourcing the correct (coloured) part and soldering them back on. The easiest thing would be to find some thin plastic sheet that is transparent, in the right colour, and mount it over the appropriate LEDs (if you know how to find them, when the panel is out and not powered!). Or stick a large sheet over the clear plastic bezel.

For anyone curious, here are the figures published by Skoda for fuel consumption and gearing, as applied to facelift models. Note that the LPG model is included, as are automatic versions, plus Greentech variants, so read carefully! Combined fuel consumption is the same for manual 60ps & 75ps manuals, but oddly, the urban fuel consumption of the non-Greentech 60-ps is listed as a tad more than the non-Greentech 75ps for reasons I don't see (as far as I know, the test cycle wouldn't have involved going above 4300rpm, but i don't have the test details at hand - this is not great for showing fuel economy!) Also, the fuel consumption listed is in litres per 100km, so a bigger number means lower MPG.

NB, at least for facelift versions, the 60ps & 75ps have identical gear and final drive ratios.

Are there any OBD error codes?

Varta and Bosch are the same, FWIW.

In the absence of google, this should work: https://www.upownersclub.co.uk

Anecdotally, the ASG is unreliable. The 'box and clutch is the same as the manual car, but the electronics and actuators are the things prone to failure. Sure, some owners have had good luck, but others (and see the VW Up forum) have had to shell out for expensive fixes. One problem is rarity, so very few independent garages have any idea of how the system works and what the failure modes are, sometimes wanting a huge amount of cash to change parts unnecessarily, when sometimes it's just a 50p microswitch. If auto is a must, look a at a Kia or Hyundai (long warranties, too!).