freemansteve

Start with all 5 (or 3) doors closed. Open & close one at time and check that the internal overhead light comes on (the light switch needs to be in the 'auto' position. A bad door sensor may occasionally prevent the car from locking when you press the central locking key fob, and you may also see the "door open" light show on the dash. If you don't see any of these symptoms, just ignore the fault. It may be historic.

Any ABS fault would show a light on the dash panel. The mag sensor for the door switch may be faulty, or more likely you have poor wiring or contacts to it (bad ground). 1 Fault Found: 0193 - Door Contact Switch C1076 29 [008] - Signal Implausible the report also says: 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000

Is the fault not the door switch?

If you buy from amazon, and the product simply does not do something it claims it can, copy the the relevant description from the web page, and return it for a refund.

Citigos/Ups are not "raspy", they are fairly quiet & muted. But at 5K+ rpm, they thrumm nicely. You may have an exhaust leak somewhere, or something like a heat shield is resonating. The underbonnet "soundproofing" is tiny, and probably a waste of money - most cabin noise is tyre-roar, wind-noise and some exhaust and mechanical noise (comes through the bulkhead). The bonnet thing may make the car quieter to anyone standing outside the car, over the bonnet area!

If the gas pressure is low in the AC coolant circuit, AFAIK the compressor is locked out. Check fuses though. In general I reckon that re-gassing is pointless until after you find and fix the source of the leak. Sometimes a leak can be physical damage - like a stone chip on the condenser, or a metal-fatigue fracture of a pipe joint, but also failed seals. It is common wisdom that regular running of the AC is a good way to reduce leaks through various seals drying out etc., but I have no real way to know if this is generally true (big data), or if it's just assumptions (anecdotes with no control mechanism).... No harm in running the AC regularly though!

Sounds like the cables have a problem, or the various parts that connect the cables into the 'box (or even the bits between the shift lever itself and the cables).... I'd be surprised if it was the gearbox, so it should be cheap to fix....

It may be a problem with the hub or bearing, or a bush in the suspension, but the bearings & bushes should've been noticed in MOT if faulty. Did you change disk rotors or not? Could be them. Were the previous front tyres evenly worn? Could be geometry. Also check OBD for error codes relating to ABS, if you get "nearly no braking"

I reckon you have not owned the car from new, and someone has previously removed the fuse, owing to a problem. Normally, the fan hardly ever comes on in cool weather, just driving along calmly, so most of the time you'd never notice a fan problem, but in traffic, as the weather gets warmer, it should kick in every so often. Assuming that the fuse was removed because it kept blowing, I'd check the wiring to the fan for a short, but it could also be the fan motor has failed and shorted, or most likely that the fan is physically stuck, or the bearings seized (both will cause over-current and blow the fuse).

the iridium is possibly for turbo variants.

It should read 90C when the engine is up to normal temperature. The temp is very steady - only goes a little above 90C on a hot day dragging a big load up steep hills. It will read a lower temp when starting from cold! Of the two thermostats fitted around the the water pump (driven off the engine), one opens at 80C and the other at 105C, the point being that coolant doesn't even flow to the radiator until >80C, and the electric fan rarely needs to cool, as the radiator is enough, unless you are stationary on a hot day. It has been known that electric fans can get seized bearings, but I doubt this is happening.

The fan rarely runs. Check for a stuck thermostat (there are two).

Probably. Some may be ignition-switched though. Why not just use a DVM to find a suitable slot?

They all have clutches that 'clack' on gear changes, but many will never notice depending on driving style.

This one? https://www.motors.co.uk/car-66333529/?i=2&m=sp

Any suitable diameter of silicon tubing from amazon would do it, but no harm in additional shrink shrink on top of that, the heat shrink won't last by itself. (thin, fragile, and fatigues under vibration).

It's been a big topic on the VW Up! owners club site (www.upownersclub.co.uk) - have a search on there; there have been multiple root causes....

Are we talking about Up!/Citigo/Mii, or some random car now?

Perhaps it is, but there are no reports of worn synchros on Up!/Citigo/Mii, that I have seen, if you check the bigger forums.... If there is a crunch on selecting reverse, or indeed any gear, when the car is stationary, having started the car with foot on clutch (ie 'box is also stationary), then that's not going to be a synchro issue (and for obvious reasons if there is a crunch on reverse).

Is there any car made since the 70's that hasn't got synchromesh on 1st gear? The Citigo most certainly does! Very few cars have synchro on reverse, but there are some. Crunching into gear is usually failing clutch, leaky hydraulics or possibly poorly aligned gearshift cables. The latter tends to it make it hard to select a gear, and usually you'll only get a crunch on clutch-up.

Dunno. People don't always do more than ask questions, so once fixed, they are often silent.... Make sure the battery is tip-top, as the first thing. >5 years old, change it, but if not disconnect and reconnect to power-reset all systems. Then check switches in gear selector. Then consider solenoid actuators.

More than I thought! Cheaper to go a local garage, and drink their coffee while you wait!

I think it fits facelift cars (oddly, it doesn't fit any Up!s as the bumper is different) You need to change the wiring, but I imagine the parts are available.

I'm sure I have bought a cheapish hydraulic pressurizer/topper-upper kit in the past - I doubt it'll be a big issue. Or it's a quick job at any local garage. Worth at least checking the hydraulics before splitting transmission to get to the clutch - which still could be the fault.

Could be faulty ignition switch.